Hey guys, its been a while..

Looking for advice from anyone that has wired up a new stereo system. I have a 4AWG 12v cable that I need to get through the firewall and back to the trunk, and RCA cables and all new speaker wiring going to the trunk. Any tips appreciated. I've done this once before on my Mark VII but every car is different.

Dont use anything from the old stereo - use all new components and wiring. Life will be much easier.

Might also check out www.caraudiotalk.com

Maybe tomorrow I will make the write up on this one... or finish it I should say.

The hardest part is the firewall. I went through the same rubber seal as the main harness. TO have to be careful not to damage it. I punched through with a sharp object with a string attached. Then I attached the cable to the string to pull it through.

For getting from dash to back there are already channels in place. Remove one screw near the seat belt bolt on the rocker cover/door sill. Then it just pulls up. Now pull back the carpet and you will see where it all can run. Power on one side / RCA on the other side of the car.

Removing the rear seat, both back and bottom, will help you get everything routed into the truck easily - again, channels provided for cables.

I have photos.... :D

And its really the easiest car I have ever wired up.

But my battery is in the trunk, I am powering the entire car off of 4AWG (I think it 4 :D lol )

Joey I am rewiring the whole system, but leaving the factory system in place.

unity i would really love some photos. i could take some too, and document the process. why hasn't this been done since 1993? who knows

i don't want to punch through anything that holds the main wiring harness. i'm sure there is a better location than that. if no suitable place is found, i can also drill a hole, can anyone recommend where? they sell "firewall bushings" for this purpose at places like crutchfield.

i found this on wikianswers:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_and_where_do_you_get_threw_the_firewall_to_con nect_the_amplifier_wire_to_the_battery_on_a_93_mar k_8

I ran my power wire along the passenger side and fed it through the glove box. There is a rubber boot along the left side. Here is a pic.
http://www.springwebdesign.net/MarkVIII/wire.jpg

bump

I did a new deck for the linc about a year ago...and ever since iv only had the left side speakers working...something about the JBL harness not having the proper connector for the harness i got from a local store for a mark viii...not a big deal to me but sucks for the passenger haha...

yeah thats probably for a different thread. all you need is the correct wiring harness adapter.

There is two plugs for the harness on my 94 one long grey and one small sqaure black the black is what runs to the factory amp. I have that disconected and removed the factory amp installed a 2600 watt 4 channel and two 12s. As soon as i hooked my amp up it sounded good but when you change the speakers its 4 times as loud. Rewire every thing....every thing. Run a diff amp for your highs or just a 4 channel. Its worth it and do it yourself so you know its done right. Also the little blue wire the seems to connect no where off the harness is for the power antenna. Splice it with your remote wire

I did a new deck for the linc about a year ago...and ever since iv only had the left side speakers working...something about the JBL harness not having the proper connector for the harness i got from a local store for a mark viii...not a big deal to me but sucks for the passenger haha...

Like Joey said.

Dont use anything from the old stereo - use all new components and wiring. Life will be much easier.

Its the best way..... I did mine new speakers new HU new wires one day labor done. Plus it will sound ALOT better then any of that old JBL factory stuff.

hey guys... thanks for the advice but what i'm really asking is, where to run the wires, how to get through the firewall, tips on routing the speaker wire, any holes behind the rear seat, stuff like that.. you know, wiring tips. sorry if i wasn't clear.

Maybe tomorrow I will make the write up on this one... or finish it I should say.

The hardest part is the firewall. I went through the same rubber seal as the main harness. TO have to be careful not to damage it. I punched through with a sharp object with a string attached. Then I attached the cable to the string to pull it through.

For getting from dash to back there are already channels in place. Remove one screw near the seat belt bolt on the rocker cover/door sill. Then it just pulls up. Now pull back the carpet and you will see where it all can run. Power on one side / RCA on the other side of the car.

Removing the rear seat, both back and bottom, will help you get everything routed into the truck easily - again, channels provided for cables.

I have photos.... :D

And its really the easiest car I have ever wired up.

But my battery is in the trunk, I am powering the entire car off of 4AWG (I think it 4 :D lol )

Sadly, I am quoting myself...

Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
Maybe tomorrow I will make the write up on this one... or finish it I should say.

The hardest part is the firewall. I went through the same rubber seal as the main harness. TO have to be careful not to damage it. I punched through with a sharp object with a string attached. Then I attached the cable to the string to pull it through.

For getting from dash to back there are already channels in place. Remove one screw near the seat belt bolt on the rocker cover/door sill. Then it just pulls up. Now pull back the carpet and you will see where it all can run. Power on one side / RCA on the other side of the car.

Removing the rear seat, both back and bottom, will help you get everything routed into the truck easily - again, channels provided for cables.

I have photos....

And its really the easiest car I have ever wired up.

But my battery is in the trunk, I am powering the entire car off of 4AWG (I think it 4 lol )

Sadly, I am quoting myself...

LOL that is sad.... if you put in door speakers take your time pulling off the door panels, run new wire though the rubber boot between the jam and the door use a fish wire to go through the boot, wrap your new wire to the fish wire using duct tape.
The bezels around the handles break easy take your time everything pops off on one side or both the rear speaker covers also pop off.

I used the stock wires in the doors. Too much of a pain to get the wires through. I really dont see a problem using stock wiring. Now that I think about it, I used stock FROM the amp to all speakers. But from head unit to amp, RCA of course.

I thought about using the stock wire but since I already had the panel off I would run new its not that hard with a fish tape, it slides right through.

http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1453

You could use a welding rod I guess if you bent it over and taped it so it wouldnt poke a hole.

Use a strong wire hanger.

Tie a knot in the wire, then bend one end of the hanger around the wire near the knot. You can then push the knot through one of the kick panels into the door through the black rubber hose where all the other door wires are.

last try bumpage

Ummmm... how many tips you need?

lol im dreading setting up a new system in my 93. I'm a computer tech and its just too much wiring and crap, Im going to pay someone else to do it ha

my only tip would be let someone else do it.. thats just me because i havent a clue.

Ummmm... how many tips you need?

Quick answer? As many as I can get. And where is the pics :)

As an audio enthusiast, I will reiterate the famous saying "Your system is only as strong as your weakest link." Therefore, if you're using the factory wiring, that's your weakest link. If you are amplifying your speakers at all, I would recommend upgrading to nothing less than 16 gauge wire. It may be a pain in the butt to get the wire through the boots, especially the drivers side but to me it would be worth the hassle.

I'm planning on rewiring mine this summer with 14 gauge, not to mention I'm running components with the crossovers in the trunk, so I'll have run two sets of speaker wires in both doors. I've used a coat hanger in the past to run wires through the boots, my installer usually uses an old car antenna rod.

But the choice is all yours.

I'm running components with the crossovers in the trunk, so I'll have run two sets of speaker wires in both doors.

its fun :D thats how i did mine

Alternator....

Do you need a dash kit when installing an aftermarket HU? If so does anyone have a part number of one that fits a 94 Mark? I checked on the net and found them listed for 96+ not sure if it would be the same?

94 shouldn't need a dash kit, just wiring kit (if your using the stock wiring)
seanklsc, can you not gmans pic? i would just do that and add some sealer around the wire, either that or crawl under your dash and look for a grommet you can get the power wire through and punch it through

I was bored so I ran the cords for my amp this weekend to prep for a new deck. I went thru that boot that gman pictured also. Worked good. I used the wall fish I used to wire internet in my house.

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/battery1.jpg

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/battery2.jpg

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/battery3.jpg

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/wire2fender.jpg

When you remove the splash guard from the wheel well, you'll notice there are clips inside the top of the fender that hold the air lines for the suspension; use them to hold your power wire up and out of harm's way.

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/doorjamb1.jpg

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/Stereo_Wiring/doorjamb2.jpg
These holes are already in the body from the factory. Thunderbirds and Cougars have them too. They are covered by black plugs which you can remove without much difficulty. They are large enough to fit a 0 gauge wire and still have wiggle room.

You want to be able to open and close the door without it rubbing against the wire. You don't want to leave a lot of slack in the door jamb so pull the wire tight, and everything will be fine. Your kick panel, carpet, and backseat will provide all the surfaces needed to keep the wire firmly held in place after you're finished.

http://www.patmedia.net/schoolzone/Other/LvC/Carpet/GuttedInterior.jpg
(No, I didn't remove my carpet just to run this wire).

You'll have to remove the driver's kick panel, and reach upward to get the wire from inside the car.

All done without having to put more holes in the car.

Thanks SO much for the pics, thats what I was waiting for !

Ok. And for the people who work 50 hrs a week and go to school full time...how much is reasonable to have it professionally (not circuit city or best buy, just a car audio place) installed? I know its like bringing your own food to a restruant (I tried spelling this at least 5 times I give up) but I wanna buy it all myself and bring it to them to install, the prices at these shops are crazy

install labor will be over the top as well when running new wire and what not. You're really best off to do the install yourself over a few days if you can. Throw a little sound deadening in there while you're at it... it'll increase the SLP of your system and make the sound more rich.

Also, I'm anal as hell... I want it done RIGHT. And a lot of the things installers do, I feel to be shortcuts. (you'll never see a crimp joint in any of my wiring. It's solder or I don't do it... No electrical tape either; shrink wrap or shrink tape.)

Ok. And for the people who work 50 hrs a week and go to school full time...how much is reasonable to have it professionally (not circuit city or best buy, just a car audio place) installed? I know its like bringing your own food to a restruant (I tried spelling this at least 5 times I give up) but I wanna buy it all myself and bring it to them to install, the prices at these shops are crazy


I do my own, but I am interested also. I dont have the time that I used to have when I was younger. I once made the mistake of using the "free" install with purchase from best buy. They wouldnt use the factory adaptor I bought of $10, they felt the need to charge me $30 for theirs. Needless to say that's the last time I go there.