My check engine light has came on for the second time in 3 months, and considering that i purchased one of those p.o.s. "speed chip" things off ebay, do you think that could be messing it up. When i first installed it, the check engine light didn't come on, and didn't for a month after that. i got it fixed, and it was a coil and a spark plug. The same thing seems to be happening again. could this be the problem?

That chip is definitely the problem. If you search on here you will find discussions of it. It tries to trick your PCM into thinking the air is colder than it is. Since the PCM is smart it later detects this problem and sends the check engine thing. Remove it immediately. Plus it has been shown to not show any performance increase after the first few drives. System relearns itself.

yep - it's likely telling you the IAT sensor has faulted - which is the sensor you removed and shorted with the resistor.

well, the first time i took it to the shop for the check engine light, it was a blown coil and spark plug..... would this chip destroy those sensors? if so, where can i get replacement wires, or can i just mend the two copper wires together again? :slam

could it also be limiting my power, shift time, etc. in the car?

well, the first time i took it to the shop for the check engine light, it was a blown coil and spark plug..... would this chip destroy those sensors? if so, where can i get replacement wires, or can i just mend the two copper wires together again? :slam
Well - I don''t think is could directly cause you these problem - more likely could cause you to run too rich and foul up your plugs over time....

could it also be limiting my power, shift time, etc. in the car?
It may - if it is faking your LS into thinking is 'extremely' cold I'm not sure what adjustments the powertrain makes to compensate for that.

thanks for the advice, can i just reattatched the copper wire?

thanks for the advice, can i just reattatched the copper wire?
which one do you have? - the resistor that plugs into the sensor plug or the 'box' that is cut in-line?

if the resistor - simply remove the resistor and plug the wiring harness back into the IAT sensor

if the 'box' - unplug it and 'patch' the wiring

i removed the "performance chip" (piece of metal crap) and threw it into the woods, resoddered the wires together
my car still shakes a little at idle, small stuttering, should i replace all 8 plugs with better ones, or reflash the pcm

i removed the "performance chip" (piece of metal crap) and threw it into the woods, resoddered the wires together
my car still shakes a little at idle, small stuttering, should i replace all 8 plugs with better ones, or reflash the pcm
give it a couple of days to sort itself out - or - unplug the battery for 10mins to set the PCM.

after i resoddered it i unplugged the positive and negative end of the battery cables, touched them a few times together, and the pcm reset

a few questions...

Should I get a pcm reflash, how much does it cost?
Should I upgrade the spark plugs, how much $?
and for now should i just put in fuel injection cleaner, and what brand?
anything you wanna add about gaskets etc. would be appreciated

after i resoddered it i unplugged the positive and negative end of the battery cables, touched them a few times together, and the pcm reset

a few questions...

Should I get a pcm reflash, how much does it cost?
Should I upgrade the spark plugs, how much $?
and for now should i just put in fuel injection cleaner, and what brand?
anything you wanna add about gaskets etc. would be appreciated
only my opinion:
- only reflash the PCM if you have a need that the newer code fixes
- new spark plugs make a difference, not really a believer in 'performance' spark plugs