I've got a '00 LS V6 w/144K miles.
The problem is with the rear right brakes. The inner pad is completely used up, while the outer looks completely new. The wheel barely turns - seems like the caliper is stuck or something (left wheel turns freely, by the way).

Early signs of this problem that I can think of:
About a half year ago I started noticing some strange noises coming from what seemed like rear right part of the car. Well, I figured with all the miles that the car's got, it has to make all kinds of weird noises. Anyway, a few days ago my brother took the car for a long drive - about 350 miles. When he came back, he told me of the weird noise coming from the back. It was more pronounced than before, seemed like something was gripping the wheel.

So my question is - will just replacing the worn out pad fix the problem? I'm not very mechanically inclined, though I did some basic work on LS and MKVIII that I used to have - brake pads, O2 sensors, spark plugs. Why would the caliper be "stuck"? Should I bleed the brakes - maybe the brake fluid got contaminated or something?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I haven't touched the brakes in my car yet, so I'm unsure if they're a different design, but usually when that happens it's the pins that the caliper rides on that are corroded and dry. They need to be greased to work properly and give you even brake pad wear.

Same thing happend to me last week, i did my brakes and the caliper bracket has two pins. Check to see if they are both moving freely. On my car the bottom pin was rusted closed and f*#ked up my inner pad. I hope it helps out.

I've had nothing but brake squeal for the last 3 year. I have had CX put on ceramic pads only to have Ford take them off and put on Motorcraft. I have had front rotors replaced and new pads 3x. I just had the car in the shop end of last month, back brakes still squeal. I drive in stop and go rush hour traffic. I hear it most at 40 or less mph.

So I took it to a dealer to see their estimate. They say the rotor, caliper and pins need to be replaced, and with brake fluid flush it will run me around $1200. Do you guys think that doing it myself will make more sense?

So I took it to a dealer to see their estimate. They say the rotor, caliper and pins need to be replaced, and with brake fluid flush it will run me around $1200. Do you guys think that doing it myself will make more sense?

Absolutely do it yourself, if you can.

I've replaced 2 rear calipers on my LSs. With the e-brake integral to the rear calipers, if that e-brake actuator gets sticky, you'll toast a rotor and set of pads, and the self-rebuilding route doesn't exist, to my knowlege. You can get an OEM rotor for $70 or so, a rebuilt caliper for less than $100, and the pins have come with both my rebuilt calipers each time.

I actually lost my left rear wheel speed sensor when that caliper froze (due to e-brake being sticky) so it gave check abs error on the dash (I think! -- it was some kind of brake system error, and I don't have a message center with my car being a V6)

My right rear caliper was due to a broken bleeder screw, with 90K on the car, I felt as though I would be having caliper trouble soon anyway, so I just replaced it before it wrecked my (new, that is why I was bleeding it) pads and rotors.

I haven't done the brake yet either on mine, however I'm pretty sure we have what are know as "floating Calipers". Thats those two pins everyone is talking about. Basically I would just redo your brakes and make sure everything is lubed properly. Make sure you turn your rotors(or get new ones)

If the caliper releases when it cools off, it could also be the brake hose to that wheel needs replacing.

you can purchase new pins and bolts (the floating slide set) for only a couple of $ - they come in a set of two. They are simple to replace yourself when you have the caliper off.