zachg2001 October 6th, 2007, 08:01 AM THEY SUCK DONT BUY THEM!!!!! dont cut corners buy the real bare brakes kit or something.they look cool but they suck the OEM ones worked better.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=90257040&albumID=0&imageID=13623396
DunItRight October 6th, 2007, 10:42 AM Can you like elaborate with us a bit more with like,..what brand,..what problems occurred?
I got EBC's off e-bay, I doubt they would be any different from any other EBC's on any other site.
Lincoln Luebbe October 6th, 2007, 01:27 PM yes, please elaborate. I am looking at rotors from rotor works and other mid priced sets. They have like 8000 positive feedbacks.
zachg2001 October 6th, 2007, 02:34 PM the wheel shakes, they heat up to fast make made the expinsive non sqeak pads sqeak. i dono the brand i got them from driftrotors on ebay i paid 180 shipped for the set of 4
camthman December 3rd, 2007, 07:53 PM the wheel shakes, they heat up to fast make made the expinsive non sqeak pads sqeak. i dono the brand i got them from driftrotors on ebay i paid 180 shipped for the set of 4
You must ask yourself why 1 brembo rotor cost as much as 4.....
CanadianLS December 9th, 2007, 02:45 AM By any chance did you machine the new rotors before installing them ?
You're supposed to as most of them aren't true and this will give you the shuddering upon braking.Big mistake most do when useing the aftermarket drilled rotors
LEOV5 December 10th, 2007, 05:34 PM I did not machine the rotors that I got from Rotorworks. I did follow a break in for the pads. About 10 firm stops from 60 mph to about 5 mph, all in a row.
Lincoln Luebbe December 10th, 2007, 09:12 PM I am expecting my Rotor Works rotors in tommorow! How do you like yours?
JoshMcMadMac December 11th, 2007, 06:44 AM I did not machine the rotors that I got from Rotorworks. I did follow a break in for the pads. About 10 firm stops from 60 mph to about 5 mph, all in a row.
Unless that procedure is unique to a specific brand of pads, it's unlike any "break-in" procedure I've ever followed. It should be done with the rule of 30: 30MPH, stopping in 30 seconds, 30 times. The wifes car came with those rotors on them, and they've worked great since the previous owner put them on the car over 50k ago. I have been told by pretty much every other person that has them that they are happy with them. Obviously they aren't Brembo or any other top-end brand, and if you need that extra bit for racing or just desire, step up. Otherwise, most folks would be satisfied with the E-Bay rotors. I have to wonder if something else is to blame.
zachg2001 March 31st, 2008, 08:26 PM im not going to sugar coat it i run my car pretty hard i did break them in slow didnt break hard for atleast 3k miles after that i had to stop somewhat quick i guess im out diving the ability of my brakes becuse i glazed them and now they have small hair line cracks i guess next time ill take more consideriation into you get what you pay for.
Quik LS March 31st, 2008, 08:51 PM all drilled rotors will crack slightly off the holes - that's why many people recommend dimpled rotors over drilled. I have used everything from stopteck, brembo and the cheapos - all crack if you use them hard.
mmtphoto March 31st, 2008, 09:28 PM i have drilled/slotted on three cars (96 mark viii, 2003 olds aurora and 2001 olds intrigue) and have had no problem with any of them-I did have the rotors turned on the aurora and the lincoln right after install because they 'pulsated' a friend with a machine shop thought it had someting to do with the zinc coating being uneveny applied, he said he took minimal off them to true them and the seller (on ebay) credited me the $48 I spent to have them turned. I have thousands of miles on them and like them very much, paid about $135 a set average of all three sets. just my 2 cents.
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