Do I need to buy a new MAF to install a conical??

Or where can I buy an adaptor?

Why not buy the maf kit and have the filter and more power & mpg?
Lifetime warrantied too. Many places sell the adaptor.

how much are you charging for it and will it be a direct fit?(Intake tube to MAF) What about the icebox too?

how much are you charging for it and will it be a direct fit?(Intake tube to MAF) What about the icebox too?

Direct bolt on, (http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/MarkVIII/ViewDetails/massair.html) lifetime warranty and it used to be $289.00 and it is now $249.00 with our tenth year anniversary pricing.

ALL our products are on sale for our tenth, biggest price drops we ever had.

Thanx for the info how long will it be on sale??

I would buy the adapter if you want a cone filter. Why not just open up the front of your stock air box to improve the air flow? You will be sucking in hot air with the cone filter unless you have it sealed from the engine compartment.

The point of the conical filter is to give you more media surface area for more flow and better throttle response. Cutting up the front of the air box won't do much.

Ya. The "restrictive" part is the filter. The stock filter works well, but a conical will make things better. Then the next restriction point is the throttle body - not the MAF and most will tell/sell ya. Its a vacuum system, the termination point being the TB.

The cone filter is Ok is it is sealed from the engine compartment, otherwise you are just sucking up hot air. I'm sure you guys know that it's much better to have cooler air going into the engine. You can't actually feel any difference between the cone and the ported air box on a stock engine any how. Anyways, I wouldn't waste my money on a MAF, There is too much talk of those things causing a CEL and a lean condition. I wouldn't even consider it. Sure, I had a conical filter on mine for a while, I went back to the stock ported air box. Cooler air and you can't tell any difference as far as power. If paper filters are so bad and restrictive then why have auto manufactuers been using them for decades? Those K&N filters are really more trouble then they are worth IMO.

The stock throttle bodies are actually not restrictive on these motors. Twin 55mm on gen 1 and twin 57mm on gen 2 (I believe). Those are good for at least 500hp.

I did not say there were restrictive, I said they were the next restriction :)

You're full of crap! The K&N is easy to clean and change. Anybody can do it! To many racing leagues including desert and cross country teams use them so they must have an advantage! I've used them for years and have had nothing but good luck with them.

You're full of crap! The K&N is easy to clean and change. Anybody can do it! To many racing leagues including desert and cross country teams use them so they must have an advantage! I've used them for years and have had nothing but good luck with them.

Gee, when a company sponsors you, you use their product. So that obviously means that the product is a good one! :rolleyes:

Your crazy if someone out there doesnt have a k@n or like filter.Easiest horsepower out there.And yes, it oviously makes power.i would change the massair flow sensor and put a conical on there also.Make a little heat deflector too.For mustangs i have heard stories of some massair sensor not right but i have had zero problems with a 80mm c@L and a 75bullet.Summit racing has the 75bullet for sale now.The stock sensor is definetley a restriction.
SOMEONE SHOULD ALSO DESIGN A 3" ALUMINUM INLET TUBE FROM THE MASSAIR TO THE T/BODY.Im sure a custom rubber adapter from a tube to the oval t/body is out there.Maybe someone already did it

look in the for sale section;)

The stock mass air is not a restriction for 300-400hp power levels. It's 80mm and is fine for any NA application. You may gain some horsepower from the C&L mass air housing because it will cause you to run a little leaner.

You're full of crap! The K&N is easy to clean and change. Anybody can do it! To many racing leagues including desert and cross country teams use them so they must have an advantage! I've used them for years and have had nothing but good luck with them.

Oh, I'm full of crap? You are a complete idiot! I'm done with this thread as once again people just don't understand hot vs. cold air. I swear, some of you guys simply change your air filter or your plug wires and swear it made your car so much faster, give me a freakin break! You think that such a simple change is good for 20 HP. Get a clue! Yeah a full exhaust system will yeild a noticable difference, a set of gears umm yes, a filter by itself?? NO! Use your K&N, All I said was that it is sucking up hot air and cleaning it really is a hassle, wash it, wait for it to dry, oil it, set it onto news paper and wait for the excess oil to run off, install it and have oil residue near it! A race car is different. Oh yeah, then there is the occasional MAF that gets gummed up do to the oily residue. Later....

I couldn't have said it better Turborich.:)

This one is sucking in cold air...

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=6800&d=1176665896

I love that set up Mespock!

This one is sucking in cold air...

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=6800&d=1176665896

As is this one...

http://photos.imageevent.com/driller/summerblastv/websize/mini-DSC01018.JPG

I Want That Grille!

That grill is just plain sexy. LOL but yeah I would like to have it too

I couldn't have said it better Turborich.:)

Thank you! :)


mespock and driller did it the right way!

I will be doing mine the exact same way as Mespock and Driller, with a huge filter that K&N uses on their one of their Turbo deisel kits.

I will be doing mine the exact same way as Mespock and Driller, with a huge filter that K&N uses on their one of their Turbo deisel kits.

FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.

K&N's are more then fine, when there is an issue with oil residue it is due to USER ERROR and nothing more.

The mass air flow on the marks maybe large in size but that does not mean it flows air.The sensor where it is located is bad for velocity and disrups flows.Someone should dyno before and after with a even a 75mm just to see.I could be wrong.Make a heat deflector with reflective colours on the engine side so get some hot air out for a cheap man cold air.

FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.

I'm converting to coils, so without the compressor, and a little fandangalling i can fit a bigger filter.

Just be wary of puddles when you get the filter too low.... TRUST ME, why do you think I have a new engine? For the fun of it!?!?!?! LOL

I've ran a K&N filter for about 7000 miles on my diesel. Oil analysis came back with quite a bit of dirt in the oil. IIRC it was sitting right around 7. The K&N Filter didn't filter the air properly on that motor. I switched to an AirRaid setup, and now my dirt in oil levels are sitting at about 2. The average with an OEM filter is 5.

I've used K&N Filters on my cars, too, but frankly, I haven't seeen any performance out of them.

What people don't seem to understand is that a high flow air filter can actually hurt your cars' WOT performance. The computer doesn't read sensors like the O2's, MAF, and some others when you're under WOT. The computer can't do the math and adjust fuel mixture fast enough.

Under WOT throttle, the computer bases it's ignition and timing on built-in tables. Tables that were set up with an OEM paper filter. So, we have more air going into the motor with the K&N Filter, but the computer doesn't know this because it doesn't read the MAF when under WOT operation, but rather looks at it's built in tables, and says: "Ok, we've got this altitude, I'm running x RPM's, so I should be getting y lbs per minute going into the motor. According to my fancy doodah table here, I should be injecting z ammount of fuel into the engine in order to keep the correct stoichometric ratio."

Since the computer is not accounting for the extra air that goes into the motor, guess what happens when you don't have the proper fuel amount going into the motor? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Granted, chances of you grenading your motor are very slim, but you know what? I don't like my motors running lean, no matter how miniscule that chance is.

At least that’s how it was explained to me by a leprechaun in a forest once...

I've ran a K&N filter for about 7000 miles on my diesel. Oil analysis came back with quite a bit of dirt in the oil. IIRC it was sitting right around 7. The K&N Filter didn't filter the air properly on that motor. I switched to an AirRaid setup, and now my dirt in oil levels are sitting at about 2. The average with an OEM filter is 5.

I've used K&N Filters on my cars, too, but frankly, I haven't seeen any performance out of them.

What people don't seem to understand is that a high flow air filter can actually hurt your cars' WOT performance. The computer doesn't read sensors like the O2's, MAF, and some others when you're under WOT. The computer can't do the math and adjust fuel mixture fast enough.

Under WOT throttle, the computer bases it's ignition and timing on built-in tables. Tables that were set up with an OEM paper filter. So, we have more air going into the motor with the K&N Filter, but the computer doesn't know this because it doesn't read the MAF when under WOT operation, but rather looks at it's built in tables, and says: "Ok, we've got this altitude, I'm running x RPM's, so I should be getting y lbs per minute going into the motor. According to my fancy doodah table here, I should be injecting z ammount of fuel into the engine in order to keep the correct stoichometric ratio."

Since the computer is not accounting for the extra air that goes into the motor, guess what happens when you don't have the proper fuel amount going into the motor? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Granted, chances of you grenading your motor are very slim, but you know what? I don't like my motors running lean, no matter how miniscule that chance is.

At least that’s how it was explained to me by a leprechaun in a forest once...

The stock tables are completely changed if you have a chip or tune though.

Yes, I know this. I’m talking STOCK. Even so, ask your tuner if he knows how many pounds of air your K&N filter flows at say, 6000 rpm. If he knows, then great. If he doesn’t know, how will he know what table changes are required with new numbers when he does your tune?

Yes, I know this. I’m talking STOCK. Even so, ask your tuner if he knows how many pounds of air your K&N filter flows at say, 6000 rpm. If he knows, then great. If he doesn’t know, how will he know what table changes are required with new numbers when he does your tune?

Hence the reason for dynotunes, wide-band air/fuel meters, dataloggers and programmers.

The further your car is from stock the more an issue this becomes.

With an extensive knowledgebase of many setups, custom mail order tunes will, can and do accomodate most with commonly available mods. But again, the wilder the setup and lesser known, the more important real world testing and tuning becomes.

Here is my new conical setup :) 01 Cobra factory conical setup adapted to a Gen II intake tube in my wacked-up Gen I:

http://homepage.mac.com/unity/AVI8TOR/conical/DSC04244.jpg

Unity, your car is a conglomeration of every car that has had the 32valve in it.

FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.


The one I put on 4" diameter and 9" Long plus I put a filter sock on it just incase. If I was to go to the track the sock would come off...

And Damn Driller I always like seeing your engine bay...