Okay, after I got my timing down to around 10-12 degrees. It was at a 16-18 degrees. Which it was like that for atleast 50-100 mi. So, my first question. Could my Spark Plugs be messed up from this?

Another thing, the car is just acting weird. I will be at a light and I go. I put about 70% throttle. Then after it gets to second. I add about 10% to the throttle and all of a sudden it has mad power. Like put you back in you seat. With any down shifting. It just does this and then I may let off a little. But it keeps the RPMs but it gets a little louder. Like maybe I put down the throttle. But im not going any faster.

Thrid thing. My girl was driving behind me and she says it stanks like mad crazy. Like, maybe the fuel isn't getting burned all the way through or something. Like, a spark problem/spark plug.

I know, its messed up. My little thread. I tryed to xplain the best I could! :tmi:

Ohh, last night at 2am. House flooded!!!! I had to, well. to long of storry. Im tired and working. I may xplain later! :sleep:

Ouch!!!!!!!

None of your problems have to do with MAF.

did you remember to reinstall the spout connector for the dist? thats what it sounds like to me...either that or the hold down might have been a bit loose and the distributor is moving around on ya

mass air isn't needed until you dramatically alter the manifold pressure...increasing is ok (forced induction) but can be a pain to tune...using a cam that creates a lack for vac will cause idle and off idle drivability issues, but that doesn't mean you can't swap cams/heads/intakes and so on

None of your problems have to do with MAF.

It wasn't a main part of my post. Just a tiny little section as the header. . .

did you remember to reinstall the spout connector for the dist? thats what it sounds like to me...either that or the hold down might have been a bit loose and the distributor is moving around on ya

mass air isn't needed until you dramatically alter the manifold pressure...increasing is ok (forced induction) but can be a pain to tune...using a cam that creates a lack for vac will cause idle and off idle drivability issues, but that doesn't mean you can't swap cams/heads/intakes and so on


Spout Connector?
The hold down is nice and tight. There is no movement. I was just woundering about mass air. Do to the reason I may add some new compents. But I think im just going to do a crate motor or maybe just s/c. I dunno. . .

Anything Else?

in order to change the initial timing you must remove the spout connector...idk where it is on a mark, but on a fox body mustang they were located near the tfi module. its a small plug on the tfi harness that connects a pair of wires and tells the eec that you're setting timing (pulls any advance added by the computer). iirc the connector is brown in color...and its pretty small, about the size of a nickel

if you set the initial timing with the spout connected its likely to be way off, which wouldn't really be noticed until the eec starts to advance. You'd be way down on power as described.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/4276/index9.html
thats the only picture/article i could find online

HTRDLNCN from FordvsChevy.com ran with a Novi2000 I think and was in the 11s and still used SD.

yep

in order to change the initial timing you must remove the spout connector...idk where it is on a mark, but on a fox body mustang they were located near the tfi module. its a small plug on the tfi harness that connects a pair of wires and tells the eec that you're setting timing (pulls any advance added by the computer). iirc the connector is brown in color...and its pretty small, about the size of a nickel

if you set the initial timing with the spout connected its likely to be way off, which wouldn't really be noticed until the eec starts to advance. You'd be way down on power as described.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/4276/index9.html
thats the only picture/article i could find online


TFI Module?

Wow, I haven't even posted in this thread and I'm already spent...

Sif, you gotta do some research here. The TFI module is the electronic gizmo on your distributor. The thing with the harness. Trace some of those wires. One should lead to a little nub that sort of looks like a fuse. That is your SPOUT connector. You pull that when you time your Mark VII.

Auhh, ight. . .

ebay the jet module...its junk

check this out ;)

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/diagrams/mustangMainHarness.gif

41 is your spout connector, 28 plugs onto the tfi module connected to your distributor

Hey that is awesome. See the thing is. In my little Lincoln book it says nothing about that on changing the timing. . .

D Bag

Hey that is awesome. See the thing is. In my little Lincoln book it says nothing about that on changing the timing. . .

that doesn't suprise me! its a pretty common detail to be omitted

Could you give me the steps on changing the timing. . .

To set base timing, you'll need a timing light and a 1/2-inch wrench. If you need to buy a timing light, buy an inexpensive one. Begin by marking the timing indicator on the crankshaft balancer. Use typing correction fluid or white model paint to mark the 14-degree spot with a thin line. Then remove the spout connector found hanging from the single wire attached to the distributor-wire harness (top). Next, start the engine and check base timing. Now shut the engine off and loosen the 1/2-inch bolt at the base of the distributor. Once the distributor is loose, fire the engine and set the timing to 14 degrees by turning the distributor slowly. While the engine is running, be careful not to get loose clothing or jewelry caught in the fan, for it will surely ruin your weekend. After the timing is set, tighten the distributor and check to make sure it hasn't moved. Finally, put back the spout connector and test. If the connector is left out, the computer won't allow maximum timing and fuel curve, and the performance will show it. If your car pings under hard acceleration, consider a 92-plus-octane super unleaded gasoline. If it still pings, double-check the timing. If you set it at 14 degrees, back off until detonation is no longer present.

thats from the mustang 5.0 mag article i linked above

Thats great!

Since you seem fairly knowledgeable on the Ford electronic ignition systems, I have a question for you. My friend's car has a bad miss with the spout connector plugged in, yet it disappears as soon as its unplugged, and runs smooth as ever (just no power due to no advance) What could cause that?

what is the initial timing at? check the sparkplug wires, a couple might be switched around and/or they need replaced

Inital is at 15, and the wires are where they should be (theres only 4, so its not too hard to check). The plugs are new, and when I questioned my friend on the gap he wasn't too sure, so he is going to recheck them.

back it down to 10

Ill go give that a try, if there's still a problem, i'll make a new thread in the other vehicles section, as to not hijack this one more. ;) Thanks a bunch for your help.