As a new member of LincolnvsCadillac.com Detailed Image would like to open up a thread where you can ask us about anything relating to detailing. There is a lot of good and bad information out there about how to detail properly, so we want to provide you a place to get clarification on your detailing questions. While we don’t know everything, we do have a lot of experience with a wide variety of products that can provide you with meaningful insight. We specialize in helping people clean, shine and protect their vehicle’s interior, exterior and engine bay. We have hand-selected each product on our site that will help give you top quality detailing results.

Below we have posted some before and after pictures of work Detailed Image has done products on our site. These results can be achieved by anyone who is willing to learn about detailing properly with the right combination of products. We can help you pick out a detailing package that best fits your vehicle’s particular needs. We also offer 10% OFF to all LincolnvsCadillac.com members but it excludes buffers, vacuums and specials. Just type in "10offLC" and you'll get the discount when checking out.

Before - Notice the house in the background through the haze? http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-b4-1.jpg

After – Notice the deep and glossy finish
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-aft-1.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/DodVan99-sbs.jpg

Before – Picture of Jaguar Hood
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-before.jpg

After – Full Detail on Jaguar Hood
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-a.jpg

Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. We’ll do our best to provide you a detailed and timely response. If you’d like to contact me directly feel free to e-mail me at greg@detailedimage.com. Thank you and we look forward to starting up some great dialogue!

Greg
Owner - Detailed Image
www.detailedimage.com

Thanks for coming over Greg - Mucho appreciated.

LVCr's -- Greg is an expert detailer and can help you learn how to make your car look fantastic.

Thanks! We're here to help anyone who has questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I have a question about sealants. From what I have read, there are waxes and then there are sealants. Some sealants, like liquid glass, can be built up, while others cannot. It seems that most believe that the sealants offer an excellent gloss and depth while also offering much greater protection and a lot less elbow grease. Would you please provide more input on this?

I would also like to know more about the make-up of clay bars. What makes them different, especially what is the difference from any clay you can buy at a craft shop for a few dollars?

Thank you.

Josh, thanks for the great questions, I'll do my best to answer them. Sealants are made in labs to replicate what waxes do, but better. This is done by taking the molecular composition of wax and removing elements that don't add to greater shine, durability, etc. In general sealants give you a longer lasting shine and better protection than natural waxes. For best results make sure you have taken all the necessary preparation steps to clean and smooth out the clear coat (wash, clay, polish). The cleaner and smoother the clear coat is, the better the sealant will bond to it. The very high melting point of sealants makes them more durable and resistant to nature’s elements, abrasions and harmful contaminates. Contaminates have a more difficult time bonding to the clear coat, through the sealant, therefore its easier to remove contaminates during the washing process. Sealants typically give you full protection for 3 – 12 months depending on the sealant you select and how many coats are applied. It will also enhance the looks of the vehicle by providing a more reflective surface. I think waxes offer a deeper gloss and more of the "wet" look, therefore I often top my sealant with a carnauba wax. One of my favorite carnauba waxes is the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=138)Wax. This wax adds lots of that deep gloss for a show car finish. However I really like knowing I have the underlying protection from a sealant.

As for layering sealants it depends on what sealant you have. Sealants can be mixed with chemical polishes (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=35_82)(Klasse All In One (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_82&products_id=77) and Poorboy's World Polish w/Sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_82&products_id=490)), carnauba waxes (Poorboy's World EX (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_92&products_id=136)) and some are just pure sealants (Poorboy's World EX-P (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=135), Klasse HGSG (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=79), Menzerna FMJ (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=102) * My personal favorite). Generally speaking you can't layer sealants with polish in them. The cleaners in the polish make it hard for this product to layer, while there may be exceptions here. Pure sealants and sealants with carnauba wax in them should be able to be layered. However some of these sealants need more time to cure. Once they have cured or reached their flash point, they become hard and can have more layers put on top of them. You can layer a sealant before it cures but you'll loose some of the durability, from not letting the bottom layers fully cure.

I also find sealant far easier to buff on and off, especially with the Porter Cable 7424 or other good buffers. The Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=102) is so easy that I've had customers call me and ask if they were doing right. I assured them that it was supposed to be that easy and slick when you remove it. I also remove a lot of sealants after buffing 1 - 3 panels, they tend to cure relatively quick. To get 100% sure full cure you may need to wait a little longer.

As for clay bars versus generic clay I'm not sure that I can explain there molecular differences. I think some general observations I have is that clay bars for automotive use are rather firm and tight together. This helps pick up contaminates as opposed to having the clay stick to the contaminates on the clear coat. Some manufacturers make a softer clay bar like Clear Kote Clay Bars (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=23_24&products_id=62). While Clay Magic (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=23_24&products_id=43) makes a much firmer bar. Both work great in my experiences. I have yet to try generic clay, so I don't have any user experience. Maybe you could try it and let us know how it goes. Sorry I don't have more specific information.

Thanks again for the great questions. Feel free to ask more, we're here to share our information with the LVC community.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Awesome information, thanks Greg. What about glaze? Is it something I should do between polish and sealant? What's the difference between polish and glaze? And will the sealant still build up properly on top of a glaze?

I will have to give the cheap clay a try and see what I can figure out.

WOW :eek: !! That's all I can say about that answer Greg!

WELCOME ABOARD!!

WOW :eek: !! That's all I can say about that answer Greg!

WELCOME ABOARD!!

Thanks for warm welcome. Hope to see more posts from you in the future!

Awesome information, thanks Greg. What about glaze? Is it something I should do between polish and sealant? What's the difference between polish and glaze? And will the sealant still build up properly on top of a glaze?

I will have to give the cheap clay a try and see what I can figure out.

Good luck with the clay, I'm interested to hear what you think. A glaze should be applied after polishing and before a sealant or wax. Its also important not to use a sealant or wax with a polish in it (aka cleaner wax, paint cleanser, All In One products, etc.) because they will remove the glaze. Glazes are difficult to label because its a word thrown around so much by mfgs. Some companies label products hand wax glazes, etc. While any wax or sealant will naturally fill in some imperfections a true glaze is designed to cling to imperfections and enhance the gloss of the paint. A true glaze like Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=101)has kaolin oils, that cling to imperfections and reflect the surrounding paint. This helps give the illusion of flawless paint and sealants can still adhere to this glaze. Although I do think glazes slightly reduce the durability of sealants. For example the Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=101) does a great job of allowing the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_81&products_id=102) bond to it. I expect FMJ to last 4 - 6 months, if I apply the glaze before it may fade 1 - 3 weeks earlier (ball park estimate)

The difference between polishes and glazes is significant. Polishes are generally chemical or abrasive/cutting. Abrasive/Cutting polishes are essential to remove swirls in the clear coat permanently. Chemical polishes just help clean the clear coat. Both help clean and shine the clear coat, remove oxidation and leave nothing behind. Glazes will leave a very light amount of product behind. Glazes will not remove oxidation, swirls or anything from the surface (generally speaking). If you're deciding between products I think cutting polishes provide the most noticeable results. They are a little harder to apply because they need to be worked in really well, but well worth it!

In summary glazes are great if you want the absolute best shine. It's not essential, but certainly a nice step to add to your routine. Glazes are also relatively easy to apply and remove.

There is more in depth information about each step in the exterior detailing process on DetailedImage.com (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/) in our How To section (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php). Thanks for asking more great questions, let me know if you have any follow up questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Hi Greg. Recognize you from Trailvoy. Nice to see you here on LVC.

Good to see you here too! Hopefully you can help get some good posts going on here as well!

Greg @ Detailed Image

I have a question....what would be the best fill for the plastic Lincoln McLaren grille emblem space and also, what would be the best method of painting it by hand?

Thanx....

I'm sorry to say that I don't consider myself a touch up expert so I often try to not give out professional advice in this category. I've done some touch up work but its not something I do commercially. In summary I don't know the best method to your question.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Well thanks anyway and realy good work for beeing non profesional, realy good.

I have a question, about a month or two ago my ex Keyed the side of my car and the scratches go all the way to the metal is there anyway to buff them out or get them less noticable.

Ok heres one,

Since everyone thinks that was such a good job with the pics you have shown, how about telling us the exact products and steps you used?


I can do a realy good job that dont last long at all out of just useing the selfserve carwash and turtle wax ice spray deatail but it looks realy great. I think I am about to go ahead and go all out for a nice spring cleaning and try to get rid of some of these fine swirly scratches that you can barely tell are there. Those pics just look realy, realy good to me.

I have a question, about a month or two ago my ex Keyed the side of my car and the scratches go all the way to the metal is there anyway to buff them out or get them less noticable.

If it's through to the primer than you'll probably need some touch up work for it to look near perfect again. You can minimize this by polishing, but it will still probably be visible. I'd recommend you try the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=314). The SSR 2.5 is a medium cutting polish that you should apply with good pressure around the scratches. Then follow it up with the SSR 1.0 which is a light cutting polish. This will help further reduce the scratches and brighten the clear coat. After this you can apply a glaze in there as well. The Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=101) uses kaolin oils to fill in imperfections. These oils help reflect the surrounding paint color. Again this won't totally hide the scratches but just make them less noticeable.

Ok heres one,

Since everyone thinks that was such a good job with the pics you have shown, how about telling us the exact products and steps you used?


I can do a realy good job that dont last long at all out of just useing the selfserve carwash and turtle wax ice spray deatail but it looks realy great. I think I am about to go ahead and go all out for a nice spring cleaning and try to get rid of some of these fine swirly scratches that you can barely tell are there. Those pics just look realy, realy good to me.

As for the exact process I used during those details, each one was a little different. Each vehicle has some variations in it that I might use slightly different products on. I'll outline my process that I most commonly recommend for restoring your clear coat. You don't have to do all these steps but cars like the green Jaguar and black Mercedes above really needed it. These are also many of the same exact products I use on my own personal vehicles.

Wash/Dry (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=21)
Clear Kote Clay Bar (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=74)
Menzerna Intensive Polish (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=97) (Applied by Porter Cable, Speed 5 - 6)
Menzerna Final Polish II (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=99) (Applied by Porter Cable, Speed 5 - 6)
Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=101) (Applied by Porter Cable, Speed 4 - 5)
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=102) (Applied by Porter Cable, Speed 4 - 5) (*My personal favorite sealant)
Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=138)(Applied by hand)

Thanks for the compliments on the pics again. When I stated I wasn't a professional before I was referring to touch up work only. I would consider myself a professional detailer in the sense of cleaning, protecting and enhancing vehicles appearances.

I think I know what you are referring to in the beginning of your post. I believe what you were stating was that you can get some great results after a fresh detail but you'd like a more permanent shine. Removing swirls, oxidation and fine scratches from the clear coat allows for more light to pass through the clear coat and give you a deeper reflection. Before I outline a recommendation I wanted to know if you have a buffer? If yes, which one and with what pads? If no, would you be interested in learning more about the Porter Cable 7424 (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=407). This is the buffer that has really revolutionized what weekend detailers can do, while still being a very safe and easy tool to use. A buffer is a key asset when trying to polish (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=29) effectively, while you can do it by hand it's difficult to replicate the heat and pressure of a buffer.

Once I know your status on the buffer I'll complete my recommendation. I also wanted to know if you'd like a recommendation on a sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=35)/wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=36). Sealants are like waxes but designed in labs to do what waxes do, but do it better. They typically protect for longer periods of time and are easier to use. Sometimes after applying a sealant I'll add a carnauba wax for that show car gloss and depth. Let me know if these products interests you and if you'd like a recommendation.

Thanks for posting, I look forward to helping you restore a bright and vibrant clear coat.

Greg @ Detailed Image

LOL....you sound way to profesional...kinda like a advertising bot....BUT I KNOW YOUR NOT!!!:)

Well I ummmm I use a power ball....I got good reviews but I'm kinda iffy...


All the other times I use the self serve cars wash ( without the brush of death) and some Liquid Ice Spray....I made sure I did a good enough job with that tho,once in a while as recommended I used some wax exploring different brands....


I can acheive a awsome shine but i still get the spider webs that can only be seen when your face is smashed against it....and it definitly dont shine like those pics...I want the shine of that black car...is that a Benz?

Obviously following the routine I did above would provide outstanding results. If you're up for it that is a routine that is well known for producing a show car shine. To remove the swirls the most essential step is the polishing part. I'd highly recommend you take your time and really work in the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=268) (which is also our March home page special). This will significantly help restore the clear coat to be bright and vibrant. This will not remove all the imperfections, but significantly improve the overall quality of the clear coat.

After polishing I really like to seal the paint for maximum protection. My personal favorite is the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=102). Other great sealants you might want to consider are the Poorboy's World EX-P (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=135)or Polish w/Sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=490). After this I love to apply a carnauba wax like the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=138). This carnauba wax is known for giving off a deep and glossy finish that really turns heads. Everyone who uses this product seems to really love it because it's the perfect finishing touch.

Let me know if you'd like more information on any of these products, or if you'd like other recommendations. I'll be here to help you through the entire process if you decide to really take back that deep shine in your paint.

Greg @ Detailed Image

What do you think of the power ball?...

To be honest I have not used it so I can't say from personal experience. Is the powerball designed to be a buffer on the paint or clear coated surfaces? I thought that was for cleaning wheels, but I'm not sure.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I have a pearl white car and I realize that it is impossible to make a white car look as good (deep shine) as a dark color. But do you have any tips for making a white car look as good as possible?

I have a pearl white car and I realize that it is impossible to make a white car look as good (deep shine) as a dark color. But do you have any tips for making a white car look as good as possible?

White can be a difficult color to get that deep shine from, however with the right products and technique you can get some pretty good shine. I'd recommend at least a finishing polish (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=29_32)to help brighten the clear coat, sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=35) to protect and shine and then a carnauba wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=36) for extra gloss and depth. If you do this three step process I think you'll be impressed with the results.

I'm going to outline what products I would ideally recommend, we can adjust the package later if needed. First off I'd apply the Menzerna Final Polish II to remove some fine imperfections, oxidation and other imperfections in the clear coat. Removing these imperfections allows light to more readily pass through the clear coat for a deeper shine. Next I apply a sealant for maximum protection like the Poorboy's World EX-P. This is a pure sealant designed to protect your paint for months to come. Now here comes the finishing touch that really helps add some serious gloss and depth. A good carnauba wax like the P21S Carnauba Wax is perfect for white colored vehicles. This wax is one of the few carnauba waxes I've used that really helps white paint look it's best. It won't make the paint look like a vehicle with black paint but the gloss is pretty remarkable. If you complete this process I think you would be very happy with the look of your paint. Please let me know if you have any questions or if you'd like more information on any of these products. I enjoy the challenge of working with owners of light colored vehicles and helping them getting great results.

Another tip is to clean up the trim, tires, wheels etc to help create a nice contrast between the white paint and the rest of the vehicle. Let me know if need any help cleaning or shinning any of those surfaces. Again if you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I just put the 3 products that you recomended in my cart and the 10offLC code doesn't seem to be working....I have a total of $63.97 before and after applying the coupon.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I apologize there may have been a problem with the code. I went through our system and fixed it so the code should work fine now. Sorry for any problems this may have caused. Please let me know if you have any other questions or problems.

Thank you for supporting Detailed Image (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/), we appreciate it!

Greg @ Detailed Image

hopefully i can still get some info...

whats the best way / product to use on stainless exhaust to remove tar and grime without scratching the stainless and get it shiny as possible??

Cleaning while not adding scratches can be challenging. The key is having a good metal polish and making sure you don't grind in contaminates. I really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Finish-Restorer-P85/). I would apply this with one or multiple clean microfiber towels. If tar or contaminates become embedded in your towel you need to use a fresh surface so you don't grind in the contaminates. Multiple clean towels is usually key to doing anything safely when detailing. I prefer microfiber towels (http://www.detailedimage.com/Microfiber-C24/) for polishing and really any kind of cleaning. Let me know if you have any other detailing questions I can help you with.

Greg @ Detailed Image

you use the Porter Cable 7424 to apply waxs and polishs, what type of pad does it come with?

Here is a question for you: How can I make sure that my local detailer is qualified to make my Mark look as good as possible? I have heard horror stories about detailers that make mistakes during the buffing process, and actually make the paint worse, not better. Is there a industry standard I should be looking for? Thanks!

There really is no way to know the quality of the work without seeing it first hand. Ask for references and see if someone who had extensive work will let you inspect their car's finish. There are a ton of crappy detailers out there who claim to know it all. When they skimp and do a halfassed job, you may not see it for weeks thereafter as a good coat of wax will cover up most botched jobs. Typically, in my experience, the dealer doesn't normally have its own detailer, they outsource to someone else. Your best bet is to go to a professional detail shop that specializes solely in wash/detail services. And always remember that white and very light colored cars, like silver and whatnot can be done by just about anyone because they had poor work. The darker the color, the more you'll be able to see deficiancies. What color is your car and what are you lookin to have done?

Hi, I've been looking at a lot of your products and packages, I was wondering what the difference between waterless carwash and instant detailer was: pros and cons of both and also do they really work. Thanks for your time.

Guys I just wanted to let you know I am back on the forum. I apologize for my absence but I'm back to help all detailers get the most out of your work. Let me know if I can help you!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Hi Greg
I wonder if you could recomend a product for the black plastic ext parts and also an interior cleaner. I use the store bought products but I was wondering if there something the pro's use. T.I.A. Redbed

What do you recommend for leather care?

Redbed, try out Black Wow for exterior plastics. For interior cleaning, I use an extremely diluted solution of Optimum Power Clean and distilled water. Then I dress the interior plastics with einszett cockpit premium.

These are some of the best products you can buy for the given areas you requested.

OPC works very well on wheels/wells/ and even on the paintwork for road grime.

I might have to pick up some Cockpit Premium... I'm a staunch Megs #40 fan, but I'm always open to trying new products.

CP is one of the most matte looks you can get. If you don't like the matte finish, you probably don't want it. Figured I'd give you that information before you purchase it.

And if you don't like it, I'll either buy it from you, or trade you something for it :D

Hi Greg
I wonder if you could recomend a product for the black plastic ext parts and also an interior cleaner. I use the store bought products but I was wondering if there something the pro's use. T.I.A. Redbed

I really like to use the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer. It helps remove contaminants and restore a darker appearance to the trim. For the interior cleaning I absolutely love the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover. I use it on the doors, console, trim, dashboard, arm rests and more. For protection I spray the 303 Aerospace Protectant as well. It leaves a nice dark finish and valuable UV protection but without the gloss and oily feeling many other products have. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

What do you recommend for leather care?

For leather care the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean are hands down my favorite leather care products. They have deep cleaning and conditioning power to restore and maintain leather like new. Best of all it's our May special at Detailed Image so you can save over 20% off this month only. If you want a one step option try the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff!

Greg @ Detailed Image

I've been keeping a tally... I'm stuck between Leatherique and Zaino.

I'm currently using Lexol products and am not satisfied.

Lexol is a pretty good product man, it is ( or was, dunno if it has changed) the only product mercedes-benz recommened be used on their leather surfaces. I use Meg's at my place though, it performs excellent and has a well known brand name to boot.

I've been keeping a tally... I'm stuck between Leatherique and Zaino.

I'm currently using Lexol products and am not satisfied.

I understand it can be tough to choose. I honestly don't think there is one right answer so it's really up to you. For me lexol has always provided okay results. Certainly nothing is wrong with it but it leaves something to be desired and that is why I feel so strongly about the Leatherique products. They just seem to work great on every kind of leather seat you use them on. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Greg,
What do you think of zymol wheel coat? i've been using it for years and am curious if there is a better product for chrome? What about aluminum?
Thanks
Jeff

what process do you use with the jetseal 109 do you just apply by hand and buff off after 15 min or so

I might have to try both!

My only problem with Lexol is that it doesn't seem to do anything at all.... the cleaner really seems to do nothing...

I will probably buy some Leatherique while it is on sale though!

You're right about that, the cleaner isn't worth the jug its sold in. But between the regular and light leather conditioner they sell, you just about can't go wrong.

Greg,
What do you think of zymol wheel coat? i've been using it for years and am curious if there is a better product for chrome? What about aluminum?
Thanks
Jeff

I haven't honestly used, nor have I heard of others using it so I can't say. To clean metal surfaces and coated metals I use the P21S Finish Restorer (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Finish-Restorer-P85/75-ml-S1/). It's a deep cleaning formula that works really well for me. For protection of wheels, exhaust tips and other metal surfaces I recommend the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Wheel-Sealant-P40/8-oz-S1/). It's designed to resist high temperature brake dust and other road grime. This makes future cleanings faster, easier and safer. Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

what process do you use with the jetseal 109 do you just apply by hand and buff off after 15 min or so

It can be applied by hand or with a buffer. If you apply it with a buffer I use a paint safe applicator like a microfiber applicator or a foam applicator. If you use a buffer I use my softest foam pad like the Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad. After I apply a nice thin coat I wait about 10 - 15 minutes before buffing off the excess residue. Use a paint safe towel like the DI All Purpose Microfiber Towel. If you want more specifics check out our Detailing Guide! Let me know if you need more details.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I might have to try both!

My only problem with Lexol is that it doesn't seem to do anything at all.... the cleaner really seems to do nothing...

I will probably buy some Leatherique while it is on sale though!

I assure you're going to love the Leatherique products, especially if you get them while they are on sale. Make sure you are reading our Detailing Guide to maximize your efforts. We have a specific guide for leatherique products that should help you get outstanding results. Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

All I have to do now is cough up the $$'s... I get paid Thursday :D

I have a cloth top on my mark and wanted to know the best way to maintain the appearance.
thanks

All I have to do now is cough up the $$'s... I get paid Thursday :D

Sounds like a plan. We're here for you whenever it works for you. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I have a cloth top on my mark and wanted to know the best way to maintain the appearance.
thanks

Great question! I wash the soft top like normal to remove loose contaminants. After the wash,with the top still damp, I spray the 303 Convertible Top Cleaner (http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Convertible-Top-Cleaner-P13/32-oz-S1/)on any stains or dirty areas and I may just mist it over the whole top. I then agitate the stains or dirty areas with a soft brush. Work the stains in multiple different directions and don't pressure to hard, unless you are comfortable with using more pressure. When you are done you can rinse the top again to help remove dirt and road grime that has been broken up. Next dry the top thoroughly and then let air dry. When it's thoroughly dry I highly recommend protecting the top with the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard (http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/High-Tech-Fabric-Guard-P14/16-oz-S1/). It helps repel moisture, dirt, dust, etc. This helps preserve the top and makes future cleanings much easier. If you have any questions about this process please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Hey, thanks for shipping my two orders in the same box guys, I appreciate it. What is your method for Optibond Tire Gel? I've heard people dilute it 1:1 but even then it is still thick.

Hey, thanks for shipping my two orders in the same box guys, I appreciate it. What is your method for Optibond Tire Gel? I've heard people dilute it 1:1 but even then it is still thick.

No problem at all, I'm glad we could help you out and we appreciate your support. I personally use the Opti-Bond Tire Gel (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Opti-Bond-Tire-Gel-P283/32-oz-S1/)at full strength and just apply it thin. I pour a small amount on our Lake Country Tire Dressing Applicator and buff on really thin coats stretching the product relatively thin. One application leaves the tires very wet and glossy looking, I love the results. However the 1:1 dilution also makes sense, here is the directions for application directly from Optimum.

"Opti-Bond Tire Gel can be applied a couple of ways. You can wipe it on with a foam applicator, just like a traditional tire dressing. The other option is to dilute the gel 1:1 with water and apply it with a spray gun. The gun will deliver a fine mist over the tires and wheel wells. This is a great option for professional detailers and garages. Wipe away excess tire gel with a foam pad or a lint-free towel."

If you have any other questions please let me know I'd be happy to help.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Nice, I think I'll try it your way. I like it glossy and wet.

Nice, I think I'll try it your way. I like it glossy and wet.

Sounds like a plan, let us know how it works out for you if you get time. Pics would be awesome!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Hey all. Was in AutoZone the other day and ended up looking at a kit and considered buying it. It was a Meguiars Clay Bar kit, came with 2 Clay bars, a spray bottle of the lube stuff, and an mf towel. About 18 bucks, but before I buy it I figured I'd ask those who know best. I've never clay barred my car before (2000 Continental) so do you think the stuff is ok, or should i look for something better?

Go with the Clay magic Blue kit. it's just as good (if not better), and is cheaper. meg's is good too though.

thanks a lot, i'll pick some up now that ill be done with school in a few days and i can put some time into the car.

I want some of the Ricardo clay...

Any tips for using a clay bar? I've never used one before but I've heard its easy to screw up and mess up the clearcoat and paint

Any tips for using a clay bar? I've never used one before but I've heard its easy to screw up and mess up the clearcoat and paint

Just use ample lubricator via a quick detailer or diluted quick detailer(more cost efficient) and you'll be fine. Don't drop the clay, break it into smaller pieces. When the surface becomes somewhat dirty, knead it until a fresh piece again (clean surface). If you drop it, you must throw it away. If you use an average consumer clay like Meguiar's or Mother's it can't really do anything to the paint if you use it properly. There are some more aggressive clays that can marr the paint, but I wouldn't say its even close to a major issue.

Any tips for using a clay bar? I've never used one before but I've heard its easy to screw up and mess up the clearcoat and paint

We have a thorough write up on the topic in our Detailing Guide Clay Bar (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Clay-Bar/)section. I would highly recommend you read this section and then please let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

I have a cloth top on my mark and wanted to know the best way to maintain the appearance.
thanks

Same here, both my Marks has a black canvas top. I would LOVE to know how to maintain and properly clean it. On the Mark VII it looks wonderful, but the Mark VIII look like the previous owner didn't believe in cleaning it at all :mad:
It has old dust stains embedded deep into the grain. You don't notice it unless you come up very close to the car. Plain soap/water won't do; when it dries it comes back.

We have a thorough write up on the topic in our Detailing Guide Clay Bar (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Clay-Bar/)section. I would highly recommend you read this section and then please let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Thanks a bunch. My 2000 Conti has stock rims and the fronts get ugly from brake dust, will the clay bar have much of a difference if I clay the rims?

Thanks a bunch. My 2000 Conti has stock rims and the fronts get ugly from brake dust, will the clay bar have much of a difference if I clay the rims?

Possibly if you work at it for a little while.

clay and rims don't mesh well, however you can use some tar and adhisvie remover and it will benefit you with enough runbbing

Same here, both my Marks has a black canvas top. I would LOVE to know how to maintain and properly clean it. On the Mark VII it looks wonderful, but the Mark VIII look like the previous owner didn't believe in cleaning it at all :mad:
It has old dust stains embedded deep into the grain. You don't notice it unless you come up very close to the car. Plain soap/water won't do; when it dries it comes back.

Wash the top with soap that has conditioners like Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II or Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds. After a nice wash I blot dry the surface with the waffle weave microfiber drying towel. Blot drying is just pressing down with the towel and then lifting it up and moving it to another area to repeat, instead of dragging it across the top and possibly leaving lint behind (far less likely with a microfiber waffle weave drying towel). After the top is cleaned spot treat any areas with the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover or 303 Convertible Top Cleaner (same exact product, just marketed differently). Spray the area and let it sit for 1 –2 minutes and then scrub lightly with a clean scrub brush to break up any stains. I spray stains heavily and other areas I just lightly mist, then work the brush from the middle towards the outside. After you have thoroughly cleaned the top and its completely dry tape off the edges of the convertible top. Now your ready to use the 303 Fabric Guard to protect the top from sand, moisture, mildew, bird droppings, pollution, contaminates, etc. Hold a rag near the area you’re spraying to ensure there is no over spray onto any other part of the vehicle. Spray carefully across the convertible top in a logical pattern to evenly coat the surface with the spray. If you spray it on the paint, wipe it up right away. To help prevent over spray I will sometimes cut the bottom out of a shoebox and spray in the middle of the box. After I spray an area I'll wipe it into the top with a clean rag. These two steps should clean the top well and keep it well protected. We have all of these products available at www.detailedimage.com if you are interested in them.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Thanks a bunch. My 2000 Conti has stock rims and the fronts get ugly from brake dust, will the clay bar have much of a difference if I clay the rims?

You certainly can use a clay bar on the rims but I don't use it to regularly on them. I generally recommend cleaning the wheels with a quality product like the P21S Wheel Gel or Chemical Guys Wheel and Rim Citrus Cleaner. Both of these options are safe on all wheels and work well. After this step you can try using a clay bar to remove surface contaminants. However if stains remain I generally use a quality metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. It deep cleans the surface and can often remove stubborn brake dust and road grime. Sometimes a second application is needed with more pressure to remove more stains.

I also recommend protecting your wheels after with the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. This makes the wheels much easier to clean in the future.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

clay and rims don't mesh well, however you can use some tar and adhisvie remover and it will benefit you with enough runbbing

Depends on the wheel finish. Chrome and claybars dont' mix well. Not sure about unfinished metal, but I wouldn't use it on those either. On clear coated wheels, you can use clay. on chrome, you can use a more acidic cleaner. on unfinished metal, you can use something like P21S polishing soap, or finish restorer. I prefer the polishing soap on bigger areas, as the restorer can be a little more difficult to work in larger quantities.

As for tar and adhesive remover, that does work great. kustomizingkid and I are each getting a gallon of Autosmart Tardis. One of the BEST products available for this purpose. It even works spectacular on the vehicle's paint surface.

They just don't sell or import it into the US. So you have to fly it in under the radar :shifty:

They just don't sell or import it into the US. So you have to fly it in under the radar :shifty:

lol...what is it made with whale blubber and cuban tobacco?

You know, I'm not sure why it's not available here. I just no there are no US distributors. So I guess it may not be that they can't ship it. It may just be that there is no one closer than the UK to get it. And shipping hazardous liquids overseas is not the easiest task to accomplish. The guy we are getting it from had 2 55 gallon drums shipped to him.

So, with the new car, what would you recommend as starting out with to protect the various car surfaces? I didn't buy any of the dealer junk - so it is straight from the factory.

I haven't had a new car before, so not sure what to do to keep it looking great!

So, with the new car, what would you recommend as starting out with to protect the various car surfaces? I didn't buy any of the dealer junk - so it is straight from the factory.

I haven't had a new car before, so not sure what to do to keep it looking great!

Great question. Caring for a new vehicle right away is the best time to start. Prevention is so much easier than fixing problems from years of abuse. I recommend getting on a schedule that works for you to do a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year and then some shorter maintenance details throughout the year. As for the products I recommend you look at two kits we have created:

DI Packages New Car Care Starter Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Premium-New-Car-Prep-P140/)
DI Packages New Car Care Advanced Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/New-Car-Care-Advanced-Kit-P352/)

Both kits will have everything you need to care for you car from bumper to bumper, inside and out. The kit will mention each product and explain where and how it's used. If you prefer a simpler routine I would suggest just picking out the products that would help you most with your goals.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

Any idea how to get rid of permanent water spots on the windshield?

Try vinegar.

If that does not work, get some Chemical Guy's Water Spot Remover:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Water-Spot-Remover-P194/16-oz-S1/

That's what I and other detailers use, and are happy with it.

Any idea how to get rid of permanent water spots on the windshield?

Vinegar can help get rid of very light build ups on the glass. More commonly I use the Glass Science Glass Scrub (http://www.detailedimage.com/Glass-Science-M5/Glass-Scrub-P52/10-oz-S1/) to help remove the marks. It does a great job of removing all kinds of builds up on the glass including nasty water marks. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

hey Greg i got a coupke questions for you i have a black ls and the paint is in decent shape but i have a few light scratches on it not deep easily removed but not too sure how to remove them. I had a dent on my door got it fixed and got the front and back passenger door repainted it then got keyed =[. i tryed taking out the light scratches by hand and it came out a little but the wax left a haze on the paint im not sure if this can be removed or if it ruined the paint. the doors were painted about 2 months ago. Also I want to buff my car but have never buffed a day in my life and dont want to murder my paint. Any tips for a first time buffer or maybe an idea of something i could practice on ? Your knowledge would be much appreciated.

hey Greg i got a coupke questions for you i have a black ls and the paint is in decent shape but i have a few light scratches on it not deep easily removed but not too sure how to remove them. I had a dent on my door got it fixed and got the front and back passenger door repainted it then got keyed =[. i tryed taking out the light scratches by hand and it came out a little but the wax left a haze on the paint im not sure if this can be removed or if it ruined the paint. the doors were painted about 2 months ago. Also I want to buff my car but have never buffed a day in my life and dont want to murder my paint. Any tips for a first time buffer or maybe an idea of something i could practice on ? Your knowledge would be much appreciated.

Where are you located in NJ? I can find someone who really knows what they are doing. Are you close to Totowa?

Where are you located in NJ? I can find someone who really knows what they are doing. Are you close to Totowa?

im in clark right next to rahway exit 135 off the garden state totowa is about 45 min from me

hey Greg i got a coupke questions for you i have a black ls and the paint is in decent shape but i have a few light scratches on it not deep easily removed but not too sure how to remove them. I had a dent on my door got it fixed and got the front and back passenger door repainted it then got keyed =[. i tryed taking out the light scratches by hand and it came out a little but the wax left a haze on the paint im not sure if this can be removed or if it ruined the paint. the doors were painted about 2 months ago. Also I want to buff my car but have never buffed a day in my life and dont want to murder my paint. Any tips for a first time buffer or maybe an idea of something i could practice on ? Your knowledge would be much appreciated.

Glad to hear you are looking to bring your paint to the next level. A professional detailer can help you out as well. However a quality detailer will charge you a good amount and you can save a lot by doing it yourself. Doing it yourself is easier than you might think with a little detailing knowledge and the right products you would be amazed what you can do by yourself. Not to mention it also gives you a tremendous amount of pride. If you are looking for a quality kit that gives you essentially everything you need check out the links below:

DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Porter-Cable-7424XP-Meguiars-Polishes-and-Hydro-Pads-Starter-Kit-P482/)

Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger (http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfire-M32/Wet-Diamond-P205/16-oz-S1/) with a Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Blue-Fine-Finishing-Pad-P61/65-S1/)

The kit above comes with buffer, backing plate, pads and polishes you need. The Meguiar's M105 should be used first with the cyan pad follow that up with the Meguiar's M205 and the tangerine pad. This combo removes swirls safely and easily. The clear coat will look more optically clear and give you that deep and glossy reflection. Additionally it will feel smoother so the sealant or wax will bond to it better. The package comes with the Porter Cable 7424 XP which is completely safe and easy to use for anyone. Check out our detailing guide (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/) for step by step instructions.

After polishing enhance the shine and provide durable protection with the Blackfire Wet Diamond. This can be applied by hand or with the buffer and a blue pad. The shine should be stunning at this point and last for months.

If you have any questions about this process please let me know I'd be happy to help!

Blackfire wet diamond is my favorite sealant right now. Looks amazing under a coat of Supernatural!

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pektel/06%20impala%20ss%20detail/IMG_9439.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pektel/06%20impala%20ss%20detail/IMG_9455.jpg

Just a reminder this is a great place to ask any questions about cleaning, protecting and enhancing the look of any surface your vehicle has. Don't hesitate to ask any detailing questions, I'll do my best to help!

Greg @ DI

I have a project car in my driveway and I was wondering how to remove tree sap from the paint? I don't know what to use and it has been there for a long time, any tips would be helpful.

I have a project car in my driveway and I was wondering how to remove tree sap from the paint? I don't know what to use and it has been there for a long time, any tips would be helpful.

I would recommend the Stoner Tarminator (http://www.detailedimage.com/Stoner-M20/Tarminator-P127/14-oz-S1/). If the sap has hardened and been baked in the paint it's going to be more difficult. Another option is mineral spirits as well. The sooner you get to it the better.

Greg @ DI

i know this may be a simple question...but what should i use to prevent any swirl markings on my clear? im looking for ways the dry off the car and to remove polish and wax without swirling up the car...

i know this may be a simple question...but what should i use to prevent any swirl markings on my clear? im looking for ways the dry off the car and to remove polish and wax without swirling up the car...

Detailing spray and clean microfiber cloths. You can dry with an air blower, compressed air, or a waffle weave microfiber.

Using the proper washing technique will do the most for saving swirls in the paint, though.

I have a random and a little odd question. I'm driving my mark from Kansas City to Pennslyvania in June, I plan on doing all my detailing work at home so I don't have to pack EVERYTHING to detail the car at the car show. What's the best way to protect my hard work from bugs and road grime on the drive out?