Okay, I got these in a week ago but I've been too busy to get them installed. Funny thing is, i had to use a striped nut remover to get one of the old ones off!!! So good timing I guess. Anyhow, these are Ghorilla lugnuts... triple chrome plated. I chose to get the lockers too, even though it really wasn't needed (who steals facory lincoln wheels these days??). Part numbers are as follows:

locking lugnuts- 62631 (summit part number GOR-62631)
Standard Lugnuts- 72137 (summit part number GOR-72137

Prices from summit are:
Locking: $12.39
Standard: $5.99

Both come in packs of 4 each


Pictures:


http://i7.tinypic.com/3460yg5.jpg

http://i19.tinypic.com/2h7i1ag.jpg

http://i5.tinypic.com/2a7tt9k.jpg

http://i18.tinypic.com/2ztca6x.jpg

http://i9.tinypic.com/2yxmdqb.jpg

http://i5.tinypic.com/29qie5e.jpg

http://i9.tinypic.com/4dmywea.jpg



And last but not least... i advise everyone to use some kind of anti-seize / galling compound. This bottle will last you forever and only costs about $10 at your local big name automotive parts store

http://i15.tinypic.com/2vki03k.jpg

could we possibly make the pics any bigger?!?!?!

(who steals facory lincoln wheels these days??).


Youd be suprised. Those would look so much better with chrome though. What kind of factory rim does that LS have??

if i may, why the heck are you posting about this? They're Lugnuts? Surely I'm not the only one thinking this...

if i may, why the heck are you posting about this? They're Lugnuts? Surely I'm not the only one thinking this...

i've heard disputes on lug nuts for the ls. some lug nuts will not work on the ls. from what i understand. i just went with the rip off at the dealer.

and V-8, hahah i missed your post at first because the pics were still loading, i scrolled right past it

the reason for him posting this is that a lot of us probably you, will need new lug nuts due to the factory ones being a POS, they tend to strip very easily. Then you got the task of trying to find ones that fit that arent gonna break the bank. the only ones taht fit are sebring and course the LS.
Good find on the lugs

I just plinked down $60 at NAPA for lug nuts because the $40 ones I bought at advance do not work with my rims.

anti-seize on lug nuts?!!!!?

Tire Rack says-
NOTE: We suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of "antiseize" around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it’s time to rotate your tires.( Do not apply "antiseize" to the lug hardware or studs.) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=39

Lug nuts have a manufacturer's recommended torque that is given for a DRY thread.

have fun when your wheels fall off lol

Well I can't seem to find my old post, but my locking lug nuts from McGard are still working just fine.
I remember they were listed for a toyota pickup, but were the right size, thread and length.
About the only thing that was not perfect with these luggnuts is the fact that the washers are not captured on the nuts.

I use antisieze on all my vehicles(F250, Minivan, 3 sedans and travel trailer) since about 1990 when I moved to the Pacific North Wet and all my lugs were siezing.

Never a problem with nuts getting loose. I do check periodically and rotate every oil change and like I said never found a loose one.

There is a lot of discussion about wet versus dry and even rusty. My experience with rusty dry lugnut threads is way too exciting for me to repeat again.

Most aerospace(my background, and yes tires ain't rocket science) applications require clean lubricated threads for proper torque. Dry threads are more difficult to get a consistant torque reading but acceptable. Rusty threads are almost impossible to get any accuracy.

Threaded fasteners do not rely completely on friction of the threads. They rely more on stretching of the bolt/lug creating a clamping force.

If you go with dry fasteners, make sure they are clean. If you use antisize, just a tiny dab is necessay. I still have and use the tiny tube of antisieze I bought lord knows how many years ago. A little goes a long long way.

Picture C of the Tirerack page looks suspiciously like it has antisieze on the threads. hmmm.

Just my opinions,

Jim Henderson

As stated before, the reason for this post is because of the $.03 lugnuts they put on our $40,000 cars. I've removed mine twice and each time had to take one off with a damaged nut removal tool. These are fairly inexpensive, look good and have good quality. If you've delt with wheels much before, you can easily tell how our lugnuts are a pretty rare type of lugnut, with a very very short shank and a washer (built in with the factory nuts). They are not your normal acorn, short or long shank lugnuts. This is actually my second order to get it right.

Can I get the pics bigger? I imagine you get that comment often, substituting pics for @#(*. It's amazing how people complain; atleast there's good solid detail and it isn't the size of a postage stamp. Cry me a river.

As far as anti-seize goes, I've used it on the hub face and studs for years; as the post above me stated, that lugnut is held on by more of a clamping force than friction. I can sit here all day and find different sources that will be evenly split on anti-seize/no anti-seize. It's your choice. For the sole purpose of an example, this was taken from PerformanceWheel.com (mind you I don't want a debate on the subject; do what you want):

"Should I use anti-seize on the studs? Will it cause the lug nuts to loosen easier?
Definitely! A small dab of anti-seize on both the hub and the spacer's or adapter's studs make torque values much more consistent, and prevent the lug nut from seizing after hard racing or a cold Colorado winter. As you torque the lug nut to spec, the stud acts like a spring, and gets pre-loaded. This tension in the stud is what holds the lug nut tight against the wheel (or spacer/adapter). By lubricating the stud with anti-seize, you make sure the torque on the lug nut will go to tensioning the stud, rather than friction that does not increase the tension, and will make it easier to lose pre-load and loosen. As long as there is tension, the lug nut will not loosen. "


And last but not least... I just got this car in the first part of DEC, I think they are the stock 03 sport wheels; dinged up ones at that! I'm buying new winter rubber for it in the next week or two, then in the spring I'll get summer wheels/tires.

cool but your rims look like crap :)

You are the only one buddy...

if i may, why the heck are you posting about this? They're Lugnuts? Surely I'm not the only one thinking this...

cool but your rims look like crap :)


Don't I know it!! You can't really see just how beat up they are unless you get pretty close; good from a far, far from good....

Winter shoes comin on strong in about a week.... (michigan snow/ice)

Don't I know it!! You can't really see just how beat up they are unless you get pretty close; good from a far, far from good....

Winter shoes comin on strong in about a week.... (michigan snow/ice)

I'd use those as the winter shoes and order some factory chromes. I got rid of my car before the snow came, so I didnt have to worry about it eating my chrome. NOw I have a car with alloys which are comming off when spring comes...then put them back on for winter next year. Simple as that.