Hi, I have a 94 Mark (Canadian), and I just got my mechanic to install an HID set-up from a 96 LSC (USA). It works great, except for one worry, the daytime running lights are still in operation, and it's the HID's that are being powered up by the DRL's.

I used the search function, but can't find a definitive answer as to how to disable the DRL's. I'd like to accomplish this as simply as possible. By unplugging the DRL module, will this do the job, without disrupting anything else? If so, where is the DRL module located? Are there some wires I can snip that would do the job? If so, which ones? If those two options won't work, is it possible to have the DRL's power up the high beams instead of the HID's? If so, how would I accomplish this?

If there's anyone that could provide me with some technical guidance, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bryan

Wouldn't pulling the DRL Fuse work?

I don't know about the Mark VIII DRLs, but on my Chevy truck I just pulled the fuse, and all was well.

Arn't you required to run DRL's in Canada? If it is mandatory I would switch them over to the Hi-beams so you don't burn up the HID's

That must be a Canadian standard on the mark eight.

My '96 doesn't have DRL's. I have auto lamp, but I never use it. My '93 was the same.

Good Luck.

Yeah... We know it's a Canadian Mark. The guy told us it is. :p

In Canadia, DRL's are a requirement.

It wasn't a question, and I don't live anywhere near Canada.

It could be as easy as changing out your auto lamp roller switch with a US switch, it rolls down until it clicks off. Does yours 'click' at the bottom?

Try pulling the DRL fuse and see what happens, whitey.

Then we can go from there.

ps. I don't live anywhere near canadia either.

Try pulling the DRL fuse and see what happens, whitey.

Then we can go from there.

ps. I don't live anywhere near canadia either.

If I bother you, stay away. I don't care if you live next door.

Dude? Grow a spine. Then a brain.

You don't "bother" me. But postwhoring about stuff you admittedly have no idea about is annoying. We're trying to help each other out here. Posting irellevant stuff like rolling the auto switch down all the way is not helping for 2 reasons.

1. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE AUTO LAMP FEATURE!

Ok. One reason.

Now, back to Whitey's post.

That is all.

Dude? Grow a spine. Then a brain.

You don't "bother" me. But postwhoring about stuff you admittedly have no idea about is annoying. We're trying to help each other out here. Posting irellevant stuff like rolling the auto switch down all the way is not helping for 2 reasons.

1. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE AUTO LAMP FEATURE!

Ok. One reason.

Now, back to Whitey's post.

That is all.

Lol it's hard to take offense to you at this point, I'm starting to feel sorry for you. Maybe you should find a second hobby.

I tried to take up your hobby, "Ignorance", but it wasn't for me. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I bet you work in a factory and never get laid.

..that's a random thought It's not a question statement fact and it doesn't need to be answered.

oh the drama...

oh the drama...

Lol that's what I say. Maybe it's good for a few laughs at least :confused: :)

I bet you work in a factory and never get laid.



:rolleyes: Good thing not all Texans are this Ignorant.

cant we all just get along?
as for switching the DRL to the high beams, try getting a test light and see what wire powers up for the DRL before the balast and possibly try hooking it to the high beam bulb, this MIGHT NOT WORK but its worth a shot, im not famaliar HID/DRL on mark viii, but ill see if i can dig up some thing at work (ford dosent have online support for cars over 10 years old) poss a US conversion or something

cant we all just get along?
as for switching the DRL to the high beams, try getting a test light and see what wire powers up for the DRL before the balast and possibly try hooking it to the high beam bulb, this MIGHT NOT WORK but its worth a shot, im not famaliar HID/DRL on mark viii, but ill see if i can dig up some thing at work (ford dosent have online support for cars over 10 years old) poss a US conversion or something


Just need to trace the HID wire with a test light to find out where the DRL taps the low beam wire. Once you find the point where the DRL's tap the low beam just need to cut that connection and move that wire over the the high beam side. It is not as easy as it sounds...and it will not be easy to find but I am sure it can be done.

Just need to trace the HID wire with a test light to find out where the DRL taps the low beam wire. Once you find the point where the DRL's tap the low beam just need to cut that connection and move that wire over the the high beam side. It is not as easy as it sounds...and it will not be easy to find but I am sure it can be done.
wouldnt the wire tap in before the ballast, cuz after, it would be extremely low voltage for a HID sys, ive never messed with a conversion kit so these are just gusses, but i should be able to get my hands on a EVTM and copy it tomorrow and least tell him what color wire he is lookin for

wouldnt the wire tap in before the ballast, cuz after, it would be extremely low voltage for a HID sys, ive never messed with a conversion kit so these are just gusses, but i should be able to get my hands on a EVTM and copy it tomorrow and least tell him what color wire he is lookin for


Yes the wire will tap into the system somewhere before the ballast. It could be anywhere from the switch to ballast...it could even possibly bypass the switch and tap in somewhere else.

:shifty: :shifty: :shifty:

Wow, thanks for the replies, hopefully this will get me on the right track. DRL's are standard equipment on Canadian cars, although, according to my mechanic, it's not illegal to disable them.

If anything, disabling the DRL function altogether would be my preference, with wiring them to the highs as a second option if necessary. I read somewhere that there is an actual DRL module on Canadian (and some U.S.) Mark VIII's, but in my searches, haven't been able to find out where it is actually located. I was wondering if it would just be as simple as unplugging/disabling the DRL module...???.... Any thoughts?

If I end up having to go the second route, cutting wires and switching the DRL's to the high beams, 04SSHD and Chickenviii, it would be very helpful for any info. you could provide re. which colour wires, etc.

Thanks again.

Bryan

Forgot to add..... Pulling the fuse disables the horn as well, not a good idea when driving in Vancouver ;)

Cheers

The DRL module on the '94 VIII is connected to the parking brake indicator as well as having inputs from the Auto Theft module and the Keyless entry modules (they will flash the lights when alarm is triggered or doors double locked)...
DRL module is located behind the glove box in the kickpanel under some other relays/modules...

I recently installed a set of HIDs as well and ran into this problem. You can see some of what I went through here: Removing DRL's (http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46310) and here Removing DRL's (http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=22&topic_id=32015&mesg_id=32015&page=&topic_page=1)
I used a combination of the instructions on LoL.com (http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00096.html) and markviii.org (http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/four_headlight.htm) and came up with my own way to do it without touching the steering column wires or cutting any wires (I ended up soldering one splice into the autolamp wire under the hood to keep that function as well bypass the need to modify the 'flash to pass' circuit.)
If I can be of any help I will try my best. I can email you some of the wiring diagrams for the '94 if you think they might help you or your mechanic...

BAM!!!!! its for a 93 but it should be the same 99%

Brillliant!! Thanks chickenviii and Icarus.

Icarus, I read the thread and was particularly interested in this....

'Well... the DRL's are disabled, the low beams don't flash with a double lock or with the anti-theft, and I haven't cut a single wire (I cheated and pulled the harness locks out and pulled the single pins I need out and covered them, this way if it goes back to stock, no one will be the wiser, lol...) The only thing I had to disassemble on the interior was the glove box and the lil panel below it were your toes touch.'

If you could elaborate on how to do that, it would be ever so helpful. You could say I'm not so much of an electrical person, it confounds me, so please don't be afraid to spare as many details as possible, no matter how simplistic they may seem.... ;) Thanks so much!

Bryan

This will be a bit long as I'll try to be detailed but it's not as bad as you think...

There are 'locks' that hold the pins into the plastic connectors. The two types here are ones that just have a little tab on the metal pin itself that hold the pin into the connector and one that has a plastic 'bar' that locks all the pins in at once.
The first are a bit of a pita to get out as you need a good thin pick to get at them and don't want to pry them to much or they won't lock in the pin again very well or at all if you ever want to reuse them. The second are easy to get out with a pick, you just pull the 'bar' out with the pick and move the tab a little to release the pin. You need to be careful though you don't release any other wires from the connector thou as none are locked in then (writing down the order helps to be sure, but if gentle they will stay in.)
Cutting the wires would be much easier and quicker, I was tempted about half way into this, as I'm not real patient at times (at least not with cars.) Either way you need to cover them well so they don't short on anything and if you cut them, leave enough wire to reconnect if you so desire in the future.
I disabled the DRL's by pulling the Red/Black output wire to the lights from the module, which also meant I couldn't use this wire to power the ballasts or relays like the articles mention (why anyone would want to power the ballasts with a pulsed lower voltage is anybodys guess though, I couldn't see it at helping them any!?)
I pulled power for triggering my relays from the 'B' spot I marked on the picture I posted in my reply on the markviii.org post (pg.2). It is underneath the main fuse panel thats under the hood. That was easy to get out by removing all the relays after disconnecting the battery and pulling the red lock bar (the whole red piece) out from the fuse panel. Lifting the whole panel off the four mount tabs makes it able to turn almost 180* to get at everything. This was the only wire I soldered another too. It goes to 2 relays I mounted under the lamp access door, to power each ballast. I then brought power to the relays directly from the fuse panel main input wire (I used ring connecters I soldered to new wire with fuses to the relays - quick, easy and clean/durable.) Ground are from existing bolts near there with soldered rings here too.
I choose to solder everything I added and do it right as opposed to just crimping the connecters to make it more durable and shrink wrapped all these connections and used die-electric grease on all connectors. Either way will work though... I just like making work for myself ;)
I forgot to add I was in the trunk to remove the wire from the keyless entry/auto theft modules (I can't remember exactly which I did in there so don't want to say in case I'm wrong and mislead you, but I know I didn't do anything but pull a wire or two from the connector like I did with the 'lamp out module' behind the glove box) so had to pull the carpet back on the drivers side.

Now that I read all this, it is sounding complicated, lol.... but it wasn't too bad at all as I planned it out before hand on where I was going to put everything and where to get power, what wires to pull etc, etc (hence my post and questions on the other forums ;) )...
Only problem I ran into was mounting the ballasts neatly and out of the way. I originally had the on the posts behind the grill on the outer sides but moved them to the actual bumper re-enforcement bar later. They looked fine behind the grille as they were on the outer sides and not that visible, but I wanted to hide/protect them more.

I don't know if this is the kind of info your looking for so let me know if it helps or not... :confused: lol...

i love my day time running lights on my '98...at least i dont have to turn it on durring a cloudy rainy day,cuase here it's the law if it raining and the wipers are goin u have to have you lights on,im sure it the same around the country..is it?..plus in ny..its a discount on your insurance for having that feature.what about u guys?

Wow, thanks Icarus. In my case, the HID system is already up and running. I got my mechanic to do it for me, as I lack confidence in my electrical abilities and understanding. I printed off the 'standard' installation instructions and handed them to him, along with all the HID parts, so I'm assuming he followed those installation procedures in regards to what he used to power the ballasts, etc.

What I'm a bit confused about in your post is what part applies to just disabling the DRL's, and which part of your post is referring to installation and powering the ballasts.

If I was to just snip the Red/Black output wire at the DRL module, would this accomplish my goal, or am I reading it wrong? Thanks again for your patience and help.

Cheers,

Bryan

Goddess98, I think our problem up here (imho) is that the DRL's run on a reduced pulsed voltage that's probably not to good for the life of the ballast. Up here I've never heard of any discount for those kind of things nor any law that requires lights to be on with wipers (I could be wrong as I've never looked it up & its just as easy to turn them on manually if need be.) Most companies around here don't even ask what options a car has, just the model and if theres aftermarket stuff, alarm, etc (even some don't ask that!)... In my case it doesn't bother me one way or another if they are on through the day, I just personally wanted to make them last longer by disabling it, sounds to be the same case vanwhitey is in... I did readjust the autolamp sensor so they come on sooner mind you, so if it gets dark and crappy out they will come on in most cases :)

vanwhitey, if you snip the red/black wire from the module I think you will lose power to your lights (ballasts) as I think the articles pull the power from that wire. This is all I needed to do to disable them, the rest I wrote deals mainly with explaining the connecter locks and pulling wires. If you are getting power for your ballasts from this wire you'll need to ask your mechanic to verify & remedy or leave it as is...

true u have the opt to turn on n off if needed,but the feature is great in my opinion,but yeah if using too much then ya the life of the ballest will be decreased in a sence,
as far as nys auto insurance policy they give you i beleive 10% discount on the drl feature regardless even if your only liability u still get the discount,and as well as alarm