Well after reding some post on here about the 40 below product being the best thing to use for helping to cool the engine down I figured that I would try it. We did it to (2) mark VIII's at the same time and followed the directions exactly. All I can say is that it didn't do anything! Doesn't run any cooler at all. I used distilled water and everything like it called for. IMO this stuff is junk! It's been around 115 degrees here and both of the marks are running warm in the day time. Getting up to the (N) on the gauges. Both of them! It seems that this is about 235-240 at the engine. I used a handheld infrared thermometer to find out the temp at the front of the engine near the water pump. All I can think of is that the high ambeient temps are just too much. The heat radiating off of the ground is around 160-165 degrees. Does anyone eles live in the desert where it's 110+?? how hot does your mark run? Also the radiator fans are working properly, the cooling systems are clean and there is NO air in the system.

running a cooler thermostat and a way to turn the fan on at a cooler temp too?

**IF** everything is working correctly, and you have these problems, you need to start considering a better radiator.

Of course this is assuming that everything is working correctly.

Before going that far, you might want to at least blast out the AC condensor from the back to clear any debris. Check your radiator's cooling fins as well to make sure that they are not clogged.

**IF** everything is working correctly, and you have these problems, you need to start considering a better radiator.

Of course this is assuming that everything is working correctly.

Before going that far, you might want to at least blast out the AC condensor from the back to clear any debris. Check your radiator's cooling fins as well to make sure that they are not clogged.

If what Dominus said does not work and you are going to buy a radiator they have these new 4core heavy duty ones that are same ones used in the taxi/police pkg sold from the dealers and trust me here in New York in midtown traffic we get about the same temp during rush hour.

Yeah, the Midtown Tunnel was at least 120 degrees today and traffic was not moving. I just kept watching my needle move, but it was held in place by my electric water pump. :)

Thanks guys, Well everything is working as it should on both cars. I am now considering a new larger radiator. I will be calling a local radiator shop that I use to get a price in the next few days. As far as the turning the fan on, well its always running at full blast since my a/c is always on.

I live in NM, it was 105 on my porch today (side note: the official temp, taken at the airport, is usually anywhere from 5-15* cooler than it is in the city itself, at least where I live.) Anyway my Mark's temp gauge only works half the time, a problem I should really get off my butt and fix, but when it is working it doesn't get up to the halfway point. When I got the car I cleaned all the debris out of the radiator and straightened all the fins that I could.

I'm going to be replacing my radiator and condenser soon. I thinkt hat will bring my temps down some.

It got up to 108 degrees today here in Wichita. it's been 102-108 the last week here and with 50-70% humidity. now that's freakin' HOT!! my Mark has been running at the half way to slightly above half way even today at 108 degrees.

...I have to ask, are you absolutely sure you bleed every bit of air out of the system? Because, even just a little bit will cause my engine to run on the warm side, and my entire cooling system, from the hoses to the radiator, to the water pump, is all brand new.

what is the best way to bleed air from the system if the crossover tube will not open?

my 98's needle is right at the middle....i still wanna upgrade my cooling system, just too freaking hot in the summer down here, 110+ for the last two weeks...... + humidity ............. :(

no humidity here, only about 9-12%. But 113-117 in the shade. Yes all of the air is out. Both of the cars only run hot in the days when it's really hot. It seems as if the entire US is hotter this year! It seems like a awfull large engine for such a small 1 core radiator. I'm going to try to get a 2 row aluminum. Also the car doesn't get hot all at once, it slowly creeps up and then it stays there, if I turn the a/c off it will cool down but I need my a/c!!!

Your radiator may be plugged. It should not run that hot. Get rid of the stock junk one with crappy plastic tanks and get an 03-04 cobra radiator.

How easy is it to adapt an 03/04 cobra radiator?

Your radiator may be plugged. It should not run that hot. Get rid of the stock junk one with crappy plastic tanks and get an 03-04 cobra radiator.
Is it a direct fit?

what is the best way to bleed air from the system if the crossover tube will not open?
can't be done any other way. :(

You have to get EVERY single drop of the former coolant out of the system totally. I mean ALL of it. I ran compressed air and a blow dryer in th end of the hose for a LONG time. It has to be pure as pure can be.

The directions dont say that, It says to drain the radiator and then add 1 gallon of 40 below and 1 gallon of distilled water. So that's how we did it. You did use antifreeze, correct?

can you get all or most of it out by unbolting the oil filter adapter/thermostat thingamajiggy??

From what I have read and been told, 50% of your cooling is from your oil. You may want to think about an oil cooler with an electric fan. They can be mounted almost any place away from the radiator. Do you run a trans cooler? If so maybe you should by pass the radiator cooler and plumb it to the cooler only. If its mounted in front of the radiator it will heat the air entering the radiator even more.
Good luck!
Raoul

I ran the 40 below, one gallon of Dexcool and then the remaining was distilled water.

Dexcool
I have personally had to flush the sludge out of 5 cars because that crap was in there. I hate Dexcool, it is :q:q:q:q.

Ditto's on the Dexcool!
I run 40% Dexcool and 60% distilled water with a bottle of Redline water wetter. After 6 or 7 flushes with distilled water. A pain but worth it.

Raoul

I have personally had to flush the sludge out of 5 cars because that crap was in there. I hate Dexcool, it is :q:q:q:q.

I run dexcool in everything I own for about 8 years now or more. Not one problem under any conditions. Dexcool doesn't make sludge.

I run dexcool in everything I own for about 8 years now or more. Not one problem under any conditions. Dexcool doesn't make sludge.
yep, :I sludge comes from not flushing your system every 2 years.

Dexcool is so bad that even people who work for GM don't use it.

Dexcool, better known as OAT (Organic Acid Technology) has a ton of silicates in it designed to protect an iron block.

Ford's HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant has all of the advantages of an organic acid, but NO SILICATES. You are far better off using Ford's HOAT than anything coming from GM.

And yes, Dexcool does cause sludging. GM themselves has acknowledged this and has had well more than a few recalls and TSBs about exactly that situation.

HOAT coolants were specifically developed by Chrysler, Ford, VW, Toyota, Honda, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and other companies specifically for the purpose of being a silicate free coolant. If you are using Dexcool, you are adding silicates to your engine for no reason at all, and these silicates are designed to bond to metal for protection against corrosion, but have no effects on an aluminum block, so what you end up with is silicates floating around your engine with nothing to stick to, but themselves, which leads to clogging of your radiator's passages, and the heater core.

Those of you who use Dexcool, and also complain about overheating in your Mark VIII's might want to re-examine your situation.

Thanks for the info Dominus,
I will have to look into this, I tend to over maintain with only the best stuff I can get.
Raoul

By the way does it have to be Ford coolant or will Prestone and the like fill the bill?

I have never had ANY sludge problems, I flush my system every 2 years and I don't have a overheating problem. it was 108 degrees again today with 60% humidity and my temp gauge only goes up to the half way mark. that's why I say the sludge build up is due to lack of proper maintenance.

Yes with an if, and no with a but. I personally know 2 GM techs who own GM cars, and neither of them will let Dexcool touch their cars.

Like I said before, it is not necessary. Your engine does not need silicates, nor can it benefit from it. You might as well be gold plating your oil filters, or polishing your valve covers with peanut butter.

Silicates = Bad

well I have not had any problems with it, but next time I flush it I will use Prestone or MotorCraft AF. I have always used distilled water too, I think tap water causes problems too. btw there are only 2 makers of ethylene glycol, BASF and Union Carbide.

Yeah, the distilled water is a VERY good idea.

I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

That's a good thing when you own a classic, because most big block Mopars are extremely prone to overheating.

Knock on wood!

what about liquid propylene glycol, have you heard of that?

Sierra. They sell it at Pep Boys. With the proper mixture (about 50/50), you can have a boiling point of 250 degrees. And yes, contrary to popular belief, it is better to have a high boiling point and remove more heat from your engine, than it is to have a lower one and have a cooler coolant temp.

It has a slight advantage in boiling point over ethylene glycol, but the boiling point of NPG is over 280 degrees, and the cooling system doesn't need to be pressurized.

40 Below is a pretty good product. It has genuine results.

I might try that and see how it works.

Yeah, the distilled water is a VERY good idea.

I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

That's a good thing when you own a classic, because most big block Mopars are extremely prone to overheating.

Knock on wood!
sorry about that I didn't see that you already mentioned it, DuuuuuuuuHHHH!!!

Dominus, green coolant contains silicates. Dexcool does not. Dexcool contains the organic acid corrosion inhibitors 2-ethylhexanoic acid and sebacate.

The silicates in green coolant essentially plate the inside of the coolant passages, but Dex doesn't. This is why cast iron engines corrode when Dex is used and the coolant level drops low enough to allow air in.

Dominus, green coolant contains silicates.

Who said anything about green coolant? I specifically said Ford's HOAT. HOAT is NOT ethylene glycol (green coolant), and HOAT does NOT have silicates in it.

Dexcool does not.

You get Dexcool with no silicates only if you buy the bottles that speifically say no silicates. But even then, Dexcool is a crappy coolant. Can you say "Dexcool Class ACtion Lawsuit"?

I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

I just wanted to interject here. I fully support NPG. I have it in my Mustang which used to overheat like crazy (I mean the car has seen 300 degrees before, and buried my Autometer gauge).

The Evans NPG is really quite amazing. I was very skeptical (I'm extremely skeptical of all the BS manufacturer claims floating around) - but this stuff really works. My mustang has a stock water pump with stock ratio pulley, two-core aluminum fluidyne, Mark VIII fan in a custom shroud, no t-stat, -20AN upper radiator hose and stock lower, with all the bypasses blocked.

This car won't get above 190 degrees unless I turn the fan off. I live in Phoenix where the air temp yesterday was 113 degrees. Since Phoenix is consistently one of the hottest cities in the country - if it will live here, it will live anywhere.

Paul.


PS - Dexcool is crap. There is a wealth of information to support that claim.

I also don't think magical coolant additives do much of anything. I've tried them all and they've never made a difference in anything I've owned.

That NPG stuff runs about $35/gal?

That NPG stuff runs about $35/gal?

I think I paid $26 p/gallon for the Evans stuff.

Who said anything about green coolant? I specifically said Ford's HOAT. HOAT is NOT ethylene glycol (green coolant), and HOAT does NOT have silicates in it.



You get Dexcool with no silicates only if you buy the bottles that speifically say no silicates. But even then, Dexcool is a crappy coolant. Can you say "Dexcool Class ACtion Lawsuit"?

I said something about green coolant. What, am I not allowed to talk about green coolant?

Dex works fine if all the system ever sees is Dex and is properly maintained and changed on schedule. I wouldn't use it in a car that didn't come with it, but that's all I use on those that did.

I think you should use whatever the factory recomends. I'm sure that is the best option.

I think I paid $26 p/gallon for the Evans stuff.

Same here. No complaints at all. I run a stock style 1968 radiator, and a clutch fan on an engine easily within 900+ HP, and I can sit in traffic on a 100+ degree day with no problems at all.

if i had 900 hp, nothing about sitting in traffic would ever be easy.

It is no simple matter that it came about that way. I credit 80% of the car's drivability to digital EFI, and the rest to good thinking.

The clutch used to be a B!TCH, but since converting to a hydraulic actuator, things have become a hell of a lot easier.

Alas, it is much easier to drive my Lincolns around the city than my Charger, so it stays garaged most of the time.

I thought the whole reason Dex-Cool was made was because of aluminum radiators and aluminum engines.

Same here. No complaints at all. I run a stock style 1968 radiator, and a clutch fan on an engine easily within 900+ HP, and I can sit in traffic on a 100+ degree day with no problems at all.

What's the setup on the car? :D

What management are you using? I have an AEM, it's okay, but I wish I had a FAST XFI instead. :(

I thought the whole reason Dex-Cool was made was because of aluminum radiators and aluminum engines.

Nope. Dex cool is very unfriendly to aluminum.

What's the setup on the car? :D

What management are you using? I have an AEM, it's okay, but I wish I had a FAST XFI instead. :(

Just a turbo Hemi. That's all. ;)

I'm using Big Stuff 3. Love it to death!

Nope. Dex cool is very unfriendly to aluminum.

Funny I have had it in The TerminVIIIor for about 5 years now, not a single problem.

Just a turbo Hemi. That's all. ;)

I'm using Big Stuff 3. Love it to death!

I've heard good things about the BS3. People say it could even be better than the XFI, just doen't have the same level of support.

No details on the setup eh? Sneaky bastard. ;)

C'mon, spill the beans Hemi boy. :p

Nope. Dex cool is very unfriendly to aluminum.
Hmmmm it say's right on the jug "designed for todays aluminum raidiators and aluminum engines" if this stuff is so bad then why are they still making it, and why have Geno and I not had any problems for the 5 years we have been using it. I think the problem is mixing it with green AF and using tap water.

GM used it in aluminum engines with aluminum radiators and got sued for hundreds of millions of dollars, and none of those cars ever saw any green coolant. GM is alone in this situation.

Right now GM is in the process of possibly switching to G-05 coolant, because Dexcool still gives them problems. When they started putting it into the Honda engines used in the Saturn Vue Redline, they started having problems with an engine that has given Honda no problems. Go figure.

maybe it only screws with junk ass GM cars.

maybe it only screws with junk ass GM cars.

There's good logic. It'd take virtually any GM V8 engine over and Ford V8 engine every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

There's good logic. It'd take virtually any GM V8 engine over and Ford V8 engine every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

Yeah, those early Northstars are much more reliable than the modular V8 :rolleyes:

Do you someties drink heavily before you post?

Other than headgaskets they are as reliable than the mod. If the cars they were in were RWD I would have no reason to own a Mark VIII.

Yeah, those early Northstars are much more reliable than the modular V8 :rolleyes:

Do you someties drink heavily before you post?


lol, sounds like someone needs one of those ignition interlock devices that you have to breathe into - for his keyboard.

Yeah, those early Northstars are much more reliable than the modular V8 :rolleyes:

Do you someties drink heavily before you post?


Sorry, but even the LT1 makes our modulars look sad. I like my Mark VIII for the total package, but I don't even pretend that the DOHC 4.6 has anything on an LS engine.

The supercharged Cobra engine being the only exception.

Sorry, but even the LT1 makes our modulars look sad. I like my Mark VIII for the total package, but I don't even pretend that the DOHC 4.6 has anything on an LS engine.

The supercharged Cobra engine being the only exception.

Bingo. Ford can't match the power or the fuel efficiency of the larger displacement, lighter weight, and more compact LSx motors. How very sad.

Paul.

I know a guy who has an LS2 GTO (400+ HP) and he gets 400 miles to the tank, just regular driving. That's just ridiculous. Until I went on a trip with him out of town one time, I didn't even believe him.

Not that our engines are bad engines or anything, but the LS series is fabulous.

There's good logic. It'd take virtually any GM V8 engine over and Ford V8 engine every day of the week and twice on Sunday.
northstars are crap. they develop oil leaks that cost $1500.00 to 2000.00 to fix. my 4.6 DOHC has 141000 miles and is still dry as a bone every where you look. take your GM praises elsewhere, you'll convince me NOT.

northstars are crap. they develop oil leaks that cost $1500.00 to 2000.00 to fix. my 4.6 DOHC has 141000 miles and is still dry as a bone every where you look. take your GM praises elsewhere, you'll convince me NOT.

Did I ever mention the Northstar? Nope.

I am speaking of the LS-series of motors. Besides, I don't care if I convince anybody. The proof is in the pudding. The LSx makes more power, more torque, more fuel mileage, weighs less, has more cubes, is more compact, and is cheaper. What else is there?

Anyway, this isn't supposed to be a GM vs Ford thread.

Did I ever mention the Northstar? Nope.

I am speaking of the LS-series of motors. Besides, I don't care if I convince anybody. The proof is in the pudding. The LSx makes more power, more torque, more fuel mileage, weighs less, has more cubes, is more compact, and is cheaper. What else is there?

Anyway, this isn't supposed to be a GM vs Ford thread.
then shut up... I don't give a crap about LS's. my 4.6 puts them to shame. I love beating the crap out of Firechickens, Crapmaro's and Horvettes.

then shut up... I don't give a crap about LS's. my 4.6 puts them to shame. I love beating the crap out of Firechickens, Crapmaro's and Horvettes.

Rrrright. *pats head*

Fear the 14 second car.

It does seem a little odd to praise an engine for making a little bit more power when that engine has an additional 70 cubic inches.

Why not just compare the Ford 427 to a Chevy 350?

Why are we talkin about chevy's? Come on man! This is a Lincoln Forum and I am 100% pro FORD! Chevy's suck!!!!:D :D :D

Why are we talkin about chevy's? Come on man! This is a Lincoln Forum and I am 100% pro FORD! Chevy's suck!!!!:D :D :D
Lincolns vs CADILLAC.

The Cadillac guys just aren't very active, they're replacing their headgaskets.

It does seem a little odd to praise an engine for making a little bit more power when that engine has an additional 70 cubic inches.

Why not just compare the Ford 427 to a Chevy 350?

The fact that Ford did not make an engine for which it can be compared to definitely speaks volumes. The Cobra and GT500 engines are some hot stuff, but only fi you get a Cobra or GT500.

northstars are crap. they develop oil leaks that cost $1500.00 to 2000.00 to fix. my 4.6 DOHC has 141000 miles and is still dry as a bone every where you look. take your GM praises elsewhere, you'll convince me NOT.

Half case seals are really just a nuisence leak, not a big deal unless you really like a clean driveway. I myself wouldn't care if my ETC developed a half case seal leak, but like the vast majority of Northstars it has no leaks. Actually I have a small oil leak in my Mark (haven't checked where it might be coming from.)

LSx > modular, period. I'd have one except I don't want a generic sports car, and don't want a Vette (can't afford one either.)

The Cadillac people are on cadillacowners. Which makes sense when you compare it to this site. I don't see any Lincoln (or even 300) haters over there, they seem to be a more easygoing group than people here. But since we're here, the Caddy boys are probably just busy showing taillights to some Lincolns at the strip.

Who wants a front wheel drive car? not me! I thought we were talking about overheating issues anyway. Oh yeah I almost forgot... Do you guys know what chevrolet stands for?

"chews heads eats valves races only little electric trains"

If you want to get started with those stupid little inaccurate acronyms I can assure you there are more available for Fords...

And yes, FWD sucks. Well it's good for rain/snow, but we all know it's shortcomings. Like I've said before, if the last gen. Eldo was RWD I wouldn't have any reason to own a Mark VIII.

I have to say , I've had a lot more problems with my Mark than I've had with any other car I've owned (had a 90 Eldorado and a 91 Audi 100). Don't get me wrong, I love my Mark, but it's a much bigger pain in the ass than the others I've had. Ford vs. Chevy etc. is all about preference. They all suck at times, and they are all awesome at times.

Rrrright. *pats head*

Fear the 14 second car.
my Mark runs low 12's...I don't even fear 13 second cars, Dr. Phil :lol: :slap:

Bingo. Ford can't match the power or the fuel efficiency of the larger displacement, lighter weight, and more compact LSx motors. How very sad.

Paul.

i am not here to argue which is better,but your talking about an engine designed in 1989 compared to and engine designed in 1997.

we all know computing power for engineering has mde near quantum leaps between those years,i believe a fresh from start mod motor today would be very competitive,just like the dohc mod was 13 years ago in the first mark viii's.
it was a match or better than the first nstars and beat everything out of japan,or atleast matched depending on who you ask.

even with just updates the new gt runs 13.8 approx in 1/4 mile 0-60 in low 5's and burns cheap old crappy 87 octane as its recommended fuel.

i cant "knock" ford on that one.

ps. i think the new sb's from gm are impressive.i am just loyal to ford.

Back on topic, I finally found a shop, in Maine, as it turns out, that had 40 Below. I picked it up while I was on vacation last week, and added it in Monday. It really works well. Even at the track saturday afternoon, or in traffic, the gauge stays where it should instead of zooming up like it used to. Much better than the completley ineffective water wetter.