It's oilchange time...syn...semi syn...basic...what do all you guys use?10w30...5w30...5w20...? Thanks guys

It's oilchange time...syn...semi syn...basic...what do all you guys use?10w30...5w30...5w20...? Thanks guys

5w20 conventional.

Mobil One.

Mobil 1 for me.

Just tried Vavoline 75K high mileage @5W 30

Former Mobil 1 for about 7 years and now exclusively Amsoil.

5w30 dinosaur oil

5w30 mobile 1.

Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, but I have heard good things about Amsoil and Royal Purple. I would like to add "why" to the original question. As for me, I use a synthetic because it doesn't break down and I've got 20 good years in using Mobil 1.

Oh yeah, I use 5w20

i was told not to start using synthetic because it could start a leak
is that true?

Synthetic does not "start" a leak.

Synthetic will just find its way through existing leaks a lot easier. So, if you have a small leak, it may become a bigger leak.

Regardless, I have converted over 20 high mileage engines, 7 of which belonged to me, and never encountered such a problem.

Synthetic will just find its way through existing leaks a lot easier. So, if you have a small leak, it may become a bigger leak.

I never understood this concept. If I use the same weight oil whether its conventional or synthetic, shouldn't it leak the same? Isn't synthetic just more of a lubricant so to speak? Isn't the thickness of 5w20 the same whether its conventional or synthetic?

basically, the molecules in synthetic oil are smaller than dino oil, so they can slip through seals easier.

basically, the molecules in synthetic oil are smaller than dino oil, so they can slip through seals easier.


but the consistency is the same, I can understand extremely small leaks being found through synthetic over time (and with pressure) but for the most part it still doesn't make sense to me. The molecules combine to make the consistency, they don't separate just to fit through seals :p

I thought it was due to the detergents in the synth oil often cleaning gunk off seals that had been blocking leaks.

but the consistency is the same, I can understand extremely small leaks being found through synthetic over time (and with pressure) but for the most part it still doesn't make sense to me. The molecules combine to make the consistency, they don't separate just to fit through seals :p


consistency isn't really a factor.....think of it this way. If you have a chain that is made of small links and a chain that is made of large links, the chain made of small links will fit through a smaller hole than that with larger links - even though the "consistency" of the chain - the fact that the molecules are still all linked together - is the same.

The detergent factor is another related issue.

but the consistency is the same, I can understand extremely small leaks being found through synthetic over time (and with pressure) but for the most part it still doesn't make sense to me. The molecules combine to make the consistency, they don't separate just to fit through seals :p

You can have a liquid that has the consistency of peanut butter and leak through something that a liquid the consistency of alchohol will not.

Chemical properties will affect this type of behaviour more than anything.

One of the benefits of synthetic is that it gets into places that dino oils can't, which is why it typically lubricates better*. But this can also result in a small leak becoming larger.

The cleanliness of an engne has nothing to do with it leaking. You can run AutoRX or any quality engine cleaner through an engine and make it so it looks like a piece of chrome on the inside, have a leak not change at all, and then toss in synthetic and have it come out.

* the lubricating quality of an oil is dependent on its makeup, but given all else equal, the synthetic will be the better oil

quoted from web:

<<<<Another little-known downside is that switching to a synthetic oil on an old engine can result in oil leaks. Why? Because the detergents in the synthetic oils will "clean-up" the varnish and sludge left by conventional oils. If your engine seals are worn, the synthetic will break down the oil varnish that may be maintaining the seal. So it's not that the synthetic oil caused a leak, it just that it revealed worn seals by cleaning the varnish off of them. Many people have switched to synthetic on 100,000+ mile engines with no leaks, so it just depends on how often you changed your oil and the overall condition of your engine.>>>>>>>>>>...

You can have a liquid that has the consistency of peanut butter and leak through something that a liquid the consistency of alchohol will not.

prove it! :D n can you guys tell i'm in the mood to argue today :p

The argument about detergents in synthetics doesn't fly. Convential motor oils have the detergents too. I've actually seen a real cheap no-name brand motor oil that said on the label "non-detergent", so other than that almost all of them have detergents. Here is an explanation on the Castrol site - there is no distinction between conventional and synthetics here:

http://tinyurl.com/howu2

why are some people using 5w20? Doesn't the mark VIII require 5w30?

synthetics are said to be more "slippery"

they will make existing leaks bigger or start new small leaks.


that being said.....i first put royal purple in my s10 when it had 130k miles. no leaks. no burning.


i have since switched all my cars to motorcraft dino or synth blend. its free (for me) and 1 hell of a good oil. i also change all my cars oil between 2500 and 3500 miles.


5w30 in the mark. there is a TSB stating they can be run with 5w20 so i may run it next change.

i run 10w40 on mine, and on all our cars.....nothing more, i live in the desert, 100-110+ all summer long.......why not put water instead of 5w20 :shifty: .......that stuff is way too thin to trust it in such a big engine, that just me though........oh yeah i use dino.......

Never heard of Amsoil is it anygood? Don't think they sell it in Canada i work for a Napa Autoparts...Never sold it before...We Sell alot of that syntec Castrol 5w30 and the Mobile 1...was just curious on what everyone was using and whats a tsb about 5w20 VR4?

you should be able to get amsoil in Canada at a performance parts store.


castrol isn't real synthetic oil. the only real synthetics are amsoil, royal purple, and mobil 1. 99 percent of other synthetics are dino oils refined to meet the requirements of synthetic so they can be labeled synthetic oils.

I use mobil 1 5w30 syntec in all my cars. My conti had 130K when I started using syntec in it and it hasn't dripped a single drop

5W20 is for the LS folks.

Damn thats interesting to know...i think i might just buy the mobile 1 5w30...since i get it undercost over here anyways...im suprised that castrol would do that even with the hype over the syntec oil

On that page, Castrol is just giving factual information. It's good to advertise all your oils contain the additives - and it's not saying there are not other advantages to using Syntec.

Never heard of Amsoil is it anygood? Don't think they sell it in Canada i work for a Napa Autoparts...Never sold it before...We Sell alot of that syntec Castrol 5w30 and the Mobile 1...was just curious on what everyone was using and whats a tsb about 5w20 VR4?

Never heard of it? They are the FIRST in synthetics and have been around since 1972. (http://www.amsoil.com/company.aspx)

We are a dealer distributor of this amazing product and we ship World wide. If you have trouble finding it call me up.

As for the TSB I have been using 10w40 and sometimes straight 50w in the summer and 10w 30 in the Winter.

Never heard of it? They are the FIRST in synthetics and have been around since 1972. (http://www.amsoil.com/company.aspx)

We are a dealer distributor of this amazing product and we ship World wide. If you have trouble finding it call me up.

As for the TSB I have been using 10w40 and sometimes straight 50w in the summer and 10w 30 in the Winter.


50 weight in a 4.6? Is this safe? I have read many articles that say the main oil passages are very narrow and 5w30 is all you should ever use. It states the same for the 5.4 also. I would only use it as a last choice due to oil consumpsion.

My book specifies 5w20. I never even knew about this 5w30 stuff.

Never had any trouble with 5w20. I have a very good oil cooling system and use synthetic, so thermal breakdown is of little concern.

5w20's usually the best for the imports...thats what the 96+ acuras and hondas run...in my manual it says 5w30...straight 50 weights kinda out the blue also...

5w20's usually the best for the imports...thats what the 96+ acuras and hondas run...in my manual it says 5w30...straight 50 weights kinda out the blue also...



s2000 gets 5w30


every current ford except the diesel and 4.0 get 5w20.
a TSB is a technical service bulletin put out by a manufacturer to release specific information.

in this case it states cars previously calling for 5w30 (it gives a list) are ok to use 5w20. the mark viii is on this list. ill try to post it tomorrow.

50 weight in a 4.6? Is this safe? I have read many articles that say the main oil passages are very narrow and 5w30 is all you should ever use. It states the same for the 5.4 also. I would only use it as a last choice due to oil consumpsion.
I have been running 10w30 Mobil one for 90,000 miles in my Mark with no ill effects at all. I like the extra viscosity in the hot 100 plus degree days we get here in kansas in the summer.

My engine enjoys the lower viscosity on startup, and has never had a problem. All of the oil analysis come back clean as a whistle. The amount of metals present in my oil is actualy much lower than normal. Couldn't ask for better.

TSB 02-1-9




FORD: 1992-2002 CROWN VICTORIA
1993-1994 TEMPO
1993-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1993-2002 ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
1995-2000 CONTOUR
1998-2002 ESCORT ZX2
2000-2002 FOCUS
1993-1996 BRONCO
1993-1997 AEROSTAR
1993-2002 E SERIES, F-150, RANGER
1995-2002 WINDSTAR
1997-1999 F-250 LD
1997-2001 EXPLORER
1997-2002 EXPEDITION
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES, SUPER DUTY F-53 STRIPPED CHAS.
2000-2002 EXCURSION
2001-2002 ESCAPE
LINCOLN: 1991-2002 TOWN CAR
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1993-2002 CONTINENTAL
2000-2002 LS
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
MERCURY: 1992-2002 GRAND MARQUIS
1993-1994 TOPAZ
1993-1997 COUGAR
1993-1999 TRACER
1993-2002 SABLE
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1999-2002 COUGAR
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER


This article is being republished in its entirety to update the vehicle models, engines and years affected.

NOTE: PLEASE REFER TO THE VEHICLE APPLICATION LIST LATER IN THIS TSB FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF VEHICLES AFFECTED BY THIS TSB.



ISSUE:
Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles.

ACTION:
All 2001 and 2002 vehicles where SAE 5W-20 is specified should be serviced at the recommended oil change intervals using SAE 5W-20. This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.

All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" or "Exception 2002 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20 motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.

Vehicle Application Listing Approved For SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil

1993-1996 1.9L Escort/Tracer
1995-2000 2.0L Zetec Contour/Mystique
1999-2002 2.0L Cougar
1997-2002 2.0L Escort/Tracer
1998-2002 2.0L Escort ZX2
2000-2002 2.0L Focus
2001-2002 2.0L Escape
1993-1997 2.3L Ranger
1993-1994 2.3L Mustang
1993-1994 2.3L Tempo/Topaz
1998-2001 2.5L Ranger
1995-2000 2.5L Contour/Mystique
1999-2002 2.5L Cougar
2001-2002 3.0L 4V Escape
1996-2001 3.0L 4V Taurus/Sable
1993-2002 3.0L (Vulcan) Aerostar/Ranger, Taurus/Sable (Flexible Fuel and Gas)
1995-2000 3.0L (Vulcan) Windstar
1993-1994 3.0L (Vulcan) Tempo/Topaz
2000-2002 3.0L 4V Lincoln LS
1995-2002 3.8L Windstar
1993-1997 3.8L Taurus/Sable, Thunderbird/Cougar, Continental
1994-2002 3.8L Mustang
2002-2002 3.9L 4V Lincoln LS
1997-2002 4.2L (SPI) F-150 (under 8500 GVW only), E-Series
1996-2002 4.6L 2V Mustang
1992-2002 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis
1991-2002 4.6L Town Car
1994-1997 4.6L 2V Thunderbird/Cougar
1996-2002 4.6L 4V Mustang Cobra
1995-2002 4.6L 4V Continental
1993-1998 4.6L 4V Mark VIII
1997-2002 4.6L 2V Triton F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), E-Series, Expedition
1993-1999 4.9L E-Series, F-Series
1993-1995 5.0L Mustang/Mustang Cobra
1993-1993 5.0L Thunderbird/Cougar
1997-2001 5.0L Explorer/Mountaineer
1993-1996 5.0L E-Series, F-Series, Bronco




2000-2002 5.4L Excursion
1998-2002 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator
1997-2002 5.4L 2V F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Expedition, E-Series, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1993-1997 5.8L F-Series, Bronco
1993-1996 5.8L E-Series
2000-2002 6.8L Excursion
1997-2002 6.8L E-Series, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1999-2002 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250 HD/350/450/550 Motorhome
1993-1998 7.5L All Vehicles
NOTE: FOR 1993 THROUGH 1998 MODEL YEAR FFV USE XO-10W30-FFV.



NOTE: THE "EXCEPTION 2001-2002 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OIL.



Exception 2001 Vehicles

Engine Vehicle
3.3L Villager
3.9L Lincoln LS
4.0L Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport Trac


Exception 2002 Vehicles

Engine Vehicle
2.0L HP Zetec SVT Focus
3.3L Villager
4.0L Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport Trac


NOTE: IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.



PART NUMBER PART NAME
XO-5W20-QSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - Quart (USA)
CXO-5W20-LSP12 SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - Litre (Canada)
XO-5W20-5QSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 5 Quart Jug (USA)
XO-5W20-DSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 55 Gallon Drum (USA)
CXO-5W20-DBSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 205 Litre Drum (Canada)

I will stay with 10w30 Mobil 1. that 5w30 and 5w20 is like water. IMO.

I will stay with 10w30 Mobil 1. that 5w30 and 5w20 is like water. IMO.

I've used 5w20 in everything from my Lincoln Mark VIII, to my 830 rwhp Charger, and have had no issues. Do not fear it just because it looks like ti cannot do its job, or does not sound like it can do its job. It works well.

The Mark VIII engine and most engines today are far well beyond the engines being built 20 years ago. Oil is about a billion times better as well. They are not as vulnerable as they used to be.

Oil getting to where it needs to be is just as important as what it does once it gets there.

Apparently, the water works. ;)

i love TSB's, some just make you think......does ford still have some 93 Escort's running around to test 5w20........that thing would be running 20w50 out in the wild by now lol :D

i love TSB's, some just make you think......does ford still have some 93 Escort's running around to test 5w20........that thing would be running 20w50 out in the wild by now lol :D


with how they love to drop the valve seats? i doubt it. LOL

We had an oil analysis class, and the instructor told us that synthetic oils molecules are the same size, that's why the sythetic oil leaks through your old seal. If you have a new car or a car with new seals it's good to use synthetic oil and stay with synthetic otherwise use conventional oil. That's just what I was told, as soon as I can located the article I'll post it under Oil Analysis.

I've used 5w20 in everything from my Lincoln Mark VIII, to my 830 rwhp Charger, and have had no issues. Do not fear it just because it looks like ti cannot do its job, or does not sound like it can do its job. It works well.

The Mark VIII engine and most engines today are far well beyond the engines being built 20 years ago. Oil is about a billion times better as well. They are not as vulnerable as they used to be.

Oil getting to where it needs to be is just as important as what it does once it gets there.

Apparently, the water works. ;)
Well that's good to know cause I have wondered how well it {5w20} protects, obviously very well in your case. I have used 10w20 in the winter before but thats the minimum for me. I have seen no difference in gas mileage between 10w20 and 10w30, and I have no reason to believe that going to 5w20 would increase fuel economy. I would use Castrol Syntec 5w50 but that stuff looks dirty {dark brown} fresh out of the bottle.

You can run what you want however it is a fact that the valvetrain and oil passages inside the DOHC heads were specifically designed for 5w-30 and 5w-20 weight oils.

You can run what you want however it is a fact that the valvetrain and oil passages inside the DOHC heads were specifically designed for 5w-30 and 5w-20 weight oils.
140,000 trouble free miles on 10w30 Mobil one, and yes I am aware of what the facts are. 5w30 is the recommended viscosity.

Well that's good to know cause I have wondered how well it {5w20} protects, obviously very well in your case. I have used 10w20 in the winter before but thats the minimum for me. I have seen no difference in gas mileage between 10w20 and 10w30, and I have no reason to believe that going to 5w20 would increase fuel economy. I would use Castrol Syntec 5w50 but that stuff looks dirty {dark brown} fresh out of the bottle.
I meant 5w30 not 10w20 is the minimum I would use in the above thread, sorry about that.

Well that's good to know cause I have wondered how well it {5w20} protects, obviously very well in your case. I have used 10w20 in the winter before but thats the minimum for me. I have seen no difference in gas mileage between 10w20 and 10w30, and I have no reason to believe that going to 5w20 would increase fuel economy. I would use Castrol Syntec 5w50 but that stuff looks dirty {dark brown} fresh out of the bottle.

Whatever works. :)

At least you aren't using Quaker State and a FRAM filter. :eek:

Whatever works. :)

At least you aren't using Quaker State and a FRAM filter. :eek:



:I


or penzoil :eek:

I talked about this with my dad and he said back in the day royal purple had a different name forgot what it was called (wasnt payin much attention) anyways he said that it was good but not all that great. I could probably have looked this up on the web but im lazy so just sayin that Mobil would probably be better

Whatever works. :)

At least you aren't using Quaker State and a FRAM filter. :eek:
Thanks Dominus, at least now I am not affraid of thinner oil, as long as it's synthetic anyways. :)