well, i was going down a hill, really fast, and my breaks started smoking, i barely stopped, and i waited blah blah, they cooled down ive been driving without doing anything to them for about a month, now my break light is on non stop starting last night, so i was thinking could i do them myself or could midas change them with their "lifetime warranty" brake pad replacement? cuz i got them replaced there before. im lagging cuz i cant find the key to the wheel.

ok, 2 and only 2 questions

1.) would this guide work for a mark 7, i mean is it like the same thing? http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00113.html

2.) you think novice could do it?

1) No, that is a guide for a TOWN CAR. You would want to do this for the Mark VII: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00021.html, and otherwise it is just a matter of swapping the pads.

2) Yes.

anyone know how much the parts would be?

Brakes aren't hard to an experienced technitian. But if you are truly a novice mechanic they are NOT a system you want to make a learning mistake on. Not being able to go is one thing. But not being able to stop is just dangerous. I'm a certified technitian and I've seen some pretty messed up things guys have done trying to save some $$$$$. I actually had a customer with a brake caliper slide stuck through the inner sidewall of his driverside front tire. Needless to say he screwed up and created more damage than what the cost of a good brake job would have been.

All ya need is a little common sense:rolleyes:

how much common sense do u need, a little or a lot? ive got some, i looked at my disks and theyre a lot more scratched up than a few days ago. kinda freaking out. I think i might take my ca rto midas and have them change the pads and jsut the pads cuz i only have 50 bucks. they changed my front everything before so i dunno.

If your rotors are scratched then they need to be replaced as well. Stop driving the car before you do more damage. You need to replace the pads and the rotors. Each rotor should be $20-$25, and cheap pads can also be had for $20-$25 for the front set.

cant really do anything till i find the wheel lock key, so since im gonna haveto replace the rotors, i haveto drive to work and school, and if i drive slow, i should hold out for a couple days right?

If the rotors are ground really bad, you might be able to have them turned on a lathe for a fresh surface. If you can't find the key, push a styrofoam cup onto the end for an imprint and send it to McGuard for a new key. Keys can also be removed by FLM dealers and some tire stores. They have universal keys. Expect to pay for pads, rotors, and labor. It could be less, but expecting to pay more is better. Rotors around me are $30-$60 each if I remember right.

WOW! When I did my rotors, they were up around $90 a piece!!!

Nick has a valid point about having the rotors turned. It depends on how badly you have chewed them up. My experience has been that it cost about $20 to get a rotor turned, or about $20 to get a new rotor. I'd rather have the new part, but if you cannot get the rotor for $20 like I can at AutoZone (or similar) than it should be cheaper to turn the rotors.

WOW! When I did my rotors, they were up around $90 a piece!!!

x2, i bought mine last year thats what they were through the parts store i work at.

what do you mean turned dont they always turn?

what do you mean turned dont they always turn?

"turned" is another word for "cut" or "machined", what they do is put them on a lathe and machine them until they are flat all the way around again.

so heres the final story, apparently my fronts are fine, they just melted a little so its been weird stopping, and my brake fluid is dirty and my rear pads went down a lot so the fluid in my master cilinder lowered explaining the red brake light. the end. and my rotors in the back are a lil diff, i dont think that really matters, DO YOU? lol

If your pads are "glassed over" then that does matter, as you are compromising your ability to stop. Also, if you have lost so much of your pad that you are low on brake fluid you need new pads.Finally, the rotors in the back being "a lil diff" very well could be another serious issue.

(Slapping myself for diving into the tech section but /here the hell/ goes)

<$100.00 for front ABSRotors?!?!?! It's been like ... FOREVER since I've paid someone to remove and replace the rotors on my 1990. At said time, I was paying resale/through-the-nose prices and if memory serves me correctly, something like $300.00 EACH for FRONT ABS ROTORS and like $350.00 EACH FOR REAR ABS ROTORS. Now, assuming I was getting raked over the coals as usual, what I'm reading here today is that we can get these for as little as $20.00 and no more than $80.00

EDIT: The guy reading over my shoulder looked on AutoZone.com and found cheapies (DURALAST HUB/ROTOR ASSEMBLY #5463) for $59.99

Next.

In our shop manuals, the Brake System is the second largest section only to our Suspension System section. No. Our brakes are not on the level of astrophysics, but you don't have to be a rocket scientist to perform driveway maintenance on our Marks. All you REALLY need is the FORD PUBLISHING shop manual and two specialty tools and a floor jack and two safety stands and a set of rachets and a set of wrenches.

BTW everybody ... Josh is a freaking Rocket Scientist IRL. He's just too shy to admit it.

BTW everybody ... Josh is a freaking Rocket Scientist IRL. He's just too shy to admit it.

I work more with bombs, and I'm an engineer, not a scientist. :p

I work more with bombs, and I'm an engineer, not a scientist. :p
Bomb engineer,
rocket scientist.
Toemaytoe,
tommatto.
Six of this,
half dozen of that.

Just make sure that CFH can stop when needed.

Just make sure that CFH can stop when needed.

Roger that.

I got to jettison a fuel tank today from an F-18A. It was pretty cool to watch that bad boy tumble from 5,000 feet at 0.93 Mach...but I digress. :D

I ordered front Rotors, Pads, and Wheel Bearings for my '88 today. While I sold my repair shop in January I kept all of my business accounts with my parts suppliers so I get a good discount over list price. I am paying $42 a piece for the "economy" rotors. The "premium" rotors were going to be $128 a piece which is just crazy. That's the most I've ever been quoted for rotors on any application. So be sure to ask for the cheapest option as some parts salesman are not as forth coming with all your choices.

I ordered front Rotors, Pads, and Wheel Bearings for my '88 today. While I sold my repair shop in January I kept all of my business accounts with my parts suppliers so I get a good discount over list price. I am paying $42 a piece for the "economy" rotors. The "premium" rotors were going to be $128 a piece which is just crazy. That's the most I've ever been quoted for rotors on any application. So be sure to ask for the cheapest option as some parts salesman are not as forth coming with all your choices.
I appreciate the knowledge, especially since I'm now a
Broke-Dude-On-A-Broke-Dude-Budget.

Has anyone here had any bad experience with discount rotors for our Lincoln Mark VIIs? At such a low price, I just may try a set for knowledge sake.

I appreciate the knowledge, especially since I'm now a
Broke-Dude-On-A-Broke-Dude-Budget.

Has anyone here had any bad experience with discount rotors for our Lincoln Mark VIIs? At such a low price, I just may try a set for knowledge sake.


Keep in mind those prices are my discounted price for my business account. I'm sure the list price is much higher. I can check this afternoon and see what list would have been if you want.

Keep in mind those prices are my discounted price for my business account. I'm sure the list price is much higher. I can check this afternoon and see what list would have been if you want.
OK.
Thanks to the web, I've been checking into resale prices of different quality pads. It appears that I've had the high end pads and rotors intalled in the past. I've very happy with them but the side effect is an empty wallet.

I appreciate the knowledge, especially since I'm now a
Broke-Dude-On-A-Broke-Dude-Budget.

Has anyone here had any bad experience with discount rotors for our Lincoln Mark VIIs? At such a low price, I just may try a set for knowledge sake.

John,
Last year I put some cheapies on the front of my 90 LSC SE (made in China I think). As I recall $59 each. Still no problems. They didn't have the rears so I had to go with another parts house at $ 180.78 for the set. At that price I was told I had gotten $53.38 off the list. ;) Lincolnlov

John,
Last year I put some cheapies on the front of my 90 LSC SE (made in China I think). As I recall $59 each. Still no problems. They didn't have the rears so I had to go with another parts house at $ 180.78 for the set. At that price I was told I had gotten $53.38 off the list. ;) Lincolnlov
THUD!
(OldSchool passes out)
You used the word SET.
What makes up this $181.00 set?

John,

"set" referrs to the right and left rear rotors which as you know, unlike the front rotors, are different one from the other. :) Lincolnlov

John,

"set" referrs to the right and left rear rotors which as you know, unlike the front rotors, are different one from the other. :) Lincolnlov
Hey ! I finally found something ^^^^^ that I ~did~ know about our brakes!

Thanks.

Hey ! I finally found something ^^^^^ that I ~did~ know about our brakes!

Thanks.
yeah, thats pretty good to know, midas is stupid, theyre all "yeah your back rotors are different, it will br 360 dollars to get the right one. *NICE* jackasses, well thats good you posted that.

also, how do you top teh brake fluid, because my cilinder kinda drained because my back pads wore down some. so i cant really put that much in the actual brake flueid container, so i was wondering if it would suck it into the cilinder, i dunno, im confused i hope you understand my question. :confused:

yeah, thats pretty good to know, midas is stupid, theyre all "yeah your back rotors are different, it will br 360 dollars to get the right one. *NICE* jackasses, well thats good you posted that.

also, how do you top teh brake fluid, because my cilinder kinda drained because my back pads wore down some. so i cant really put that much in the actual brake flueid container, so i was wondering if it would suck it into the cilinder, i dunno, im confused i hope you understand my question. :confused:
You only need to add fluid if it is ~below~ the fluid level line on the reservoir.

my break pedal is hard as hell, and kinda stops really rough. and the brake light is on, they said thats because my break fluid was drained out of the master cylinder. i dunno. my friend said that could be it. the guy at midas said i could top the brake fluid, but i should do a full flush. :shifty:

You need service.

ok dude.you need to do your brakes ASAP.sounds like your caliper may have hung up.if you do the job yourself make sure you clean all the crap off your calipers and put fresh caliper grease on the glides.if you need rotors they will cost you about 20 to 30 bucks for the front and a little more for the rear.it is always best to replace with new if possible,that way you have warranties on both brakes and rotors.Auotzone offers 1 yr rotors and 2 yr rotors and lifetime brakes.it's always best to find a reputable mechanic that lets you supply your own parts,that it doesn't cost you so much $$$$$.any questions you can reach me at this number717 721 7890, just ask for Tony D ,it's the autozone that I work at.Good luck dude.