jared6180
December 20th, 2005, 05:36 PM
Actually had to break open the wires along the valve cover to make it fit because the wires were taped about 1 inch to short. Broke the tape off, and all but it barely reached. Is there a good way to extend this wire the length it is short?
Bluesman73
December 20th, 2005, 06:27 PM
You need to find some wire of the same gauge and solder a splice into it. Make sure you have a good solder job and make sure to use shrink tube to seal the connection. If you do it this way, you won't have to replace the connectors on the end of your wire loom.
viol8or
December 20th, 2005, 09:48 PM
The universal part number for a new pigtail is 87-6249. You'd need to check around at a couple of auto parts stores or online to find one. Cost of the "internal voltage regulator socket pigtail" is around $8. This replacement should be a standard practice when changing the alternator. The dealer will sell you a Motorcraft stamped part for $21, so forget that source.
To install the pigtail; tin the leads, crimp (un-insulated butt connectors) the connections, soldered the connections, applied silicone dielectric to the joints, heat shrunk each connection, and used electrical tape as required.
jared6180
December 20th, 2005, 11:17 PM
I am realizing how little I know about electronics...I am over whelmed.
Who would know what gauge wire was needed?
Pigtail? Can you just buy the pig tail that will come with the wires coming out, and then solder them up to the current wires, am I confusing anyone besides myself.
viol8or
December 21st, 2005, 08:18 AM
Who would know what gauge wire was needed?
The wire comes with the mentioned pigtail (connector). I believe it's 14 gauge.
Pigtail? Can you just buy the pig tail that will come with the wires coming out, and then solder them up to the current wires
Yes, on the part. I listed the universal part number for you. A dealership will also sell the part.
No, on the just soldering them up. Like I stated: tin the leads, crimp (un-insulated butt connectors) the connections, soldered the connections, applied silicone dielectric to the joints, and heat shrunk each connection.
Here are a couple of soldering links for reference:
http://www.balakracing.com/soldering.htm
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
BTW:
Don't just soldering in some wires to extend the plug. A new plug is relatively cheap. Plus, we don't want to start any fires through wires melting down due to poor connections.
Bluesman73
December 22nd, 2005, 12:28 AM
BTW:
Don't just soldering in some wires to extend the plug. A new plug is relatively cheap. Plus, we don't want to start any fires through wires melting down due to poor connections.
I agree with getting a new plug. However, if you haven't soldered before, and it sounds that way, you might get a friend who knows how show you some tricks and techniques. You should also practice your own soldering technique on the same guage wire as the plug to get the hang of it. Soldering is an art form and does take some practice to get thorough penetration/saturation with the molten solder. You also need to use a good rosin core solder.
viol8or
December 22nd, 2005, 03:53 PM
if you haven't soldered before, and it sounds that way, you might get a friend who knows how show you some tricks and techniques. You should also practice your own soldering technique on the same guage wire as the plug to get the hang of it.
Good piece of advice.