Well during winter Im holding off on the mods but, I want to have a pile of them waiting for me to install come spring.

right now I got
3500 edge racing Stall
4.10s w/ posi
exhaust 2 1/4 with force mufflers
SCT Chip burnt by Lonnie @ Blue Oval Chips
BBK Under drive
trans cooler

Well what do you think is a good mod to do next, Im thinking kooks headers or even FRPP shortys

Electric water pump
MMx driveshaft
Kooks headers
Cobra short runner intake
Dynotune

Electric water pump
MMx driveshaft
Kooks headers
Cobra short runner intake
Dynotune

That should be enough to last ya 2 years.... Perfect list right there. Maybe those nice 18" bullits you were checking out. Give that Mark some better styling.

ya, rims first, my chrome is mess up real bad, its peeling everywhere and rim leaks like a mofo, I think I eletric water pump is in order, hows the drain on the car, does it pull alot of amps and volts, at the light with the heater on lights, radio and Its reading 11.6-12.7 but once I get moving its sometimes 14.4 volts, this is with a new alt to

... I think I eletric water pump is in order, hows the drain on the car, does it pull alot of amps and volts, at the light with the heater on lights, radio and Its reading 11.6-12.7 but once I get moving its sometimes 14.4 volts, this is with a new alt to

You need to fix that. From your description, you are discharging the battery at idle. I noticed the same with the underdrive crank pulley. What I did was install a smaller alternator pulley to pick the rpm up back to charging. Of course this was AFTER an alternator upgrade. I never considered the underdrive pulley until the alternator was was replaced with a hi-po unit that pumped out loads of juice at idle(with the stock pulleys).

At 700 rpm idle speed, with the stock crank pulley of 6-3/4" diameter and stock alternator pulley of 2-5/8" diameter, the alternator is spinning 1800 rpm. Change the crank pulley to a 5-1/4" diameter and now the alternator is only spinning 1400 rpms which in my case was not enough even with the upgraded alternator. Put on a 1-7/8" alternator pulley and the alternator rpms are back up to 1960 rpms which in my case put the alternator speed at idle back into the charging zone.

You can find pulleys @ this site. (http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67)

I'm completely redoing the induction of the car. 98 Cobra intake manifold, slightly ported/polished, BBK 62mm ported throttle body, JLT cold air intake and I'm reusing the stock MAF with the 9 inch conical I have right now. To make the intake fit with no problems i'm getting the Cobra R hood from LMS. I want to see how fast I can get this thing to go with the street tires and then see the times drop a large amount with drag radials.

... I want to see how fast I can get this thing to go with the street tires and then see the times drop a large amount with drag radials.

I dunno if you'll see a large drop. I definitely noticed better consistency, but not necessarily significantly better times.

Once I have drag radials I will be able to launch from stall speed instead of from idle. Right now if I try to launch from stall speed I blow the tires off every single time.

so the 3g alt pully fits fine, and I need the 7/8 one. man this is a cheap fix.

so the 3g alt pully fits fine, and I need the 7/8 one. man this is a cheap fix.

If you had no problems at idle before the underdrive crank pulley, the 1-7/8" alternator pulley will put the alternator back in the charging zone. If you add an electric water pump with the battery discharging at idle, you are asking for trouble.

EDIT: WARNING! Use an impact wrench to take off the alternator nut. Do not use channel locks or pipe wrench on the pulley!

If you had no problems at idle before the underdrive crank pulley, the 1-7/8" alternator pulley will put the alternator back in the charging zone. If you add an electric water pump with the battery discharging at idle, you are asking for trouble.

EDIT: WARNING! Use an impact wrench to take off the alternator nut. Do not use channel locks or pipe wrench on the pulley!
Some retards in my automotive class tried using an open end adjustable to get the alt pulley off. I told them to use an impact and they said "it would spin the alternator though"

Well, I knew better but didn't have an impact wrench. So I wrapped the pulley with a rag and held the pulley with a mondo set of channel locks and used a socket and breaker bar. It wasn't really that difficult. Problem was after tightening the new installation, I went to put away the old pulley and was suprised to see teeth marks on the pulley from the channel locks. To my dismay, the same was true of the new one. After cleaning up the marks with a 3 corner file, it was smooth, but it is still not good for the belt as I can see some black belt dust accumulate on the face of the alternator next to the pulley. If it was a daily driver, it would need replaced. :mad:

the alt pully will spin if there no belt on it, but it doesnt matter the bolt will still come off with the impact in about 4 seconds

or you could just use a socket on one, and an open end box on the one next to it, turn the box to "tight" and the socket to loose" thats always how i do my pullies.

Brad if you get the Kooks coated they will really wow you as they look like pieces of art work, they are bueatiful looking. I got the ones with 3" collectors, and have 3" all the way out.

Santa & The Elves are busy, can't wait for them to finish :D

or you could just use a socket on one, and an open end box on the one next to it, turn the box to "tight" and the socket to loose" thats always how i do my pullies.


?????

I guess I'm not following that. Are you saying the pulley is double nutted??

Impact is the way to go. If you can't get your hands on one, the next best procedure is to use a "belt" wrench. You wrap the belt around the pulley to hold it and use a socket to break the nut loose. You can even do this many times on the car.

We are getting closer to the finish. I must be a double nut!

oops

nice

can you explain about the motor as to whats done to it, besides S/C

Its a total reman forged, running 10:1 and "C" heads, and the KB is the 2.2L with intercooler

Man, That is cool! How much did all this run yah?

Way too much!!

Way too much!!

will turn into not enough when you first smash down on the gas, you will have fun and alot of it

Brad;
Your'e right I was just being facicious, but I am serious that this is not a low buck project, as the need for all the stuff to make it work and last. Parts alone are in excess of $16,000. See what I mean, never mind what the car cost me several years ago.:gr_devil:

an 04 cobra is 24,000 used so it aint that bad

Electric water pump
P&P HEAD W/ NEW CAMS

Cobra short runner intake
Dynotune

Still work to be done

Wow, nice install. Looks beautiful. Can't wait to hear that run, try and post some videos ASAP after your done. Thanks for the eye candy, now I'll have some good dreams. :Beer

I am hoping to take some vids next week or the week after when its on the dyno.

Well, spent last two days with Lidio on tuning & drivability, and alot of progress was made, we put about 60 miles on the combo before it hit the rollers. We managed to go thru a number of changes to the computor and ended up with some decent numbers with a very safe tune on 93 Octane gas. I have to tell you that this car is a blast to drive, as it is a real sleeper and it has all the nice qualities we like in the Marks. With the 3" exhaust it idles quitely a nd very polite, however when you lean on it the sound is very masculine and the KB wHine lets you know something is happening. As soon as I learn how to work with DVD's I will post the last Dyno pull we did, in the mean time here are a couple of pics.

Fcukin Beautiful pics. Is it safe running those wires across the SC? Just wondering, I know there prolly is not enough heat to cause any trouble. i think it says your pushing over 500 horse or torque ? Awesome stuff. I sure hope to see that in person this summer and get a ride ! Congrats.

Thanks. 515HP 468 TQ 13.6 Lbs Boost. The wires are just fine where they are. We tried all kinds of ways to re-route them, but this was the best choice. Other options would have been to convert the whole system to coil on plug, and that wasn't in the cards at this time.

now that is what i am talking about!! niiiiiiice work!

THAT.....IS.....BADASS!!!!


That is VERY beautiful work, and you should get some recognition for the craftsmanship. I have A Twin turbo setup I am pieceing together for my 95', and when done i'm gonna be running up to detroit to have Lido do the tuning work.

He did the tuning on it when Jeremi had his 1st s/c sytem in it. and would like to take it somewhere that knows what they are doing.

Again, BEAUTIFUL.


Mike

Awesome numbers Roadboss! Do you know if those Ford Racing spark plug covers will fit a gen 2?

They will not. These are a new item that just came out and are for the Gen 1 engines (Coil Pacs). There is another stlye cover for the Gen 2 (Coil On) that isn't Painted. Note for those that want to get these and the oil fill cap cover: You may have to grind clearance into the spark plug cover to allow the cap to rotate freely as was done on mine (about .030").

So for the Gen 2, the 99/01 Cobra spark plug Ford Racing cover is a direct fit? Sorry for going off topic a bit...

Looking nice as hell, welcome to the Roots type Mark VIII Supercharger club.

So for the Gen 2, the 99/01 Cobra spark plug Ford Racing cover is a direct fit? Sorry for going off topic a bit...

I guess so but can't verify as I don't have a set, and you would also need the oil fill cap as well.:)

Looking nice as hell, welcome to the Roots type Mark VIII Supercharger club.




Ooooh, no no no my friend that is not a roots, it is a twin screw. There is a difference. ;)

man brad I remember when you were just starting on that thing, sounds pretty bad ass now....good work

I know this is an old thread, but I was just interested in any updates you might have, as in durability and reliability. Any problems you eventually ran into.