I am looking for new tech articles for the LS section.

Here are a few ideas:

Some basics for members who are just learning

Change Spark Plugs
Change Fuel Filter
Change Transmission Fluid / Filter
Changing Brake Pads


More advanced Stuff would also be nice.

So guys - Lets get some stuff written up. Original content only please.

Email to me at TechArticles@lincolnvscadillac.com


Thank you all.

We HAVE got to have the angel eye installation which also includes clearing the side markers.

I agree

Anything is good, but I want to get some basic stuff too.








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I am looking for new tech articles for the LS section.

Here are a few ideas:

Some basics for members who are just learning

Change Spark Plugs
Change Fuel Filter
Change Transmission Fluid / Filter
Changing Brake Pads


More advanced Stuff would also be nice.

So guys - Lets get some stuff written up. Original content only please.

Email to me at TechArticles@lincolnvscadillac.com


Thank you all.
Joey,

I sent you several a while back which included changing the rear brakes. Did you ever get those up?

I'll send you what I have - which covers most of that list.

just sent you:
- Air Cleaner Outlet Pipe - 00-02 V6/V8
- Belt 00-02 V8
- Coolant Flow 00-02 V8
- Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor 00-02 V8
- EGR Valve Tube 00-02 V8
- Ignition Coil 00-02 V6/V8
- Intake Manifold 00-02 V6/V8
- Spark Plugs 00-02 V6/V8


Generic:
- Cabin Air Filter
- Cooling System Draining
- Coolant FLushing
- Cowl Vent Screen
- Instrument Cluster

Let me take some pics and I'll send you a Tech Article I've already written on Installing a Radar Detector wiring it to the Compass Mirror.

Didn't you use to have my coil replacement page up there too?

I lost a bit when we were hacked - so If you sent me something and its not already there - thats why. Please send them again.

Also -- Please dont send me word docs with the images embedded. I cant extract the images to place them in a web page. Instead, just send an email with the text of the article and attach the images to the email. In the text just put (Image 1), (Image 2), etc. where the images go.

Thank you all...

Joey
- just open them up in Word
- then 'File' - > 'Save As'
- change the Save As Type to 'Web Page (*.htm; *.html)'
- then save

It will create a web page (*.htm) that has all the text and a sub-folder that contains all the images seperated out.

Joey
- just open them up in Word
- then 'File' - > 'Save As'
- change the Save As Type to 'Web Page (*.htm; *.html)'
- then save

It will create a web page (*.htm) that has all the text and a sub-folder that contains all the images seperated out.
Yep! :I

I lost a bit when we were hacked - so If you sent me something and its not already there - thats why. Please send them again.

You can use the link in my signature, for my coil article, to grab the images and text, if that works for you.

I'm going to change my Fuel Filter sometime in the next week or two when I'm off of work. so I'll try to get that one accomplished for us. Done it once before.. Took 30 minutes cause I didn't know what I was doing.. Could have made it alot faster...

You can use the link in my signature, for my coil article, to grab the images and text, if that works for you.


adding that one now. LSbit - you should put some pics in your garage!

adding that one now. LSbit - you should put some pics in your garage!

True. I was hoping to take some pics of the Sport last weekend after I detailed it too, but the clutch cable broke on the Mustang, so I had to drag the LS out into the nasty weather before I got some good pics. :)

I was just gonna put your car pic on the article is all :)

im actually doing an airbox mod right now different from the one you already have ill c if i can get some pics for you.

I would write one on the heatsheild that i fabed but i did mine kinda ghetto and i didn't take pictures while i was fabing the heatsheild. Once i finish the heatsheild (sanded painted lined and weatherstripped) if it turned out nicely i will write an article for sure. I will probably build another one aswell and it should turn out a lot better being this is my first time working with fiberglass.

Great Great

Anybody done any mods to their 3rd brake light? Never been a fan of the stock halogen light... I am thinking of ripping it out and doing LEDs on the trunk somehow. Also... I've seen some sweet LED mods to corner lights etc... just wondering if anybody's done this to their LS

When did you plan on adding all of those into the tech section?

I just sent you my "How to hard wire a Radar Detector into the Lincoln LS".

The 'Current Lincoln LS Tech Articles' ( http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/announcement.php?f=7 ) announcement at the top of the Lincoln LS forum does not take you to the same place or listing as when you click on the upper-right of the title-bar with all the tech articles ( http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/ )

How about a tech article on removing pin stripes, I hate mine!

Can someone post a how to for the fuel filter? Mine needs to be changed and I dont want to have to pay some mechanic to do somthing that I am more than capable of doing. Unless I am wrong and it is more of a job than the standard DIYer. thanks Danny:L

i'd love to see one about replacing the 02 sensors that control engine and air bag lights...

Can someone post a how to for the fuel filter? Mine needs to be changed and I dont want to have to pay some mechanic to do somthing that I am more than capable of doing. Unless I am wrong and it is more of a job than the standard DIYer. thanks Danny:L


Yes it is a DIY.

- pull the driver's wheel off
- remove the inner plastic wheel well liner, just some plastic push-pins
- the fuel filter is mounted on the firewall side of the wheel well with a single screw
- remove the plastic r-clips holding the fuel lines onto the filter
- replace the filter - then reverse the steps

i'd love to see one about replacing the 02 sensors that control engine and air bag lights...

not sure what you are asking.

the O2 sensors have nothing to do with the air bag lights, and they do not really control the engine - they are a sensor that is part of the air/fuel ratio measurement while the PCM is in 'closed loop' mode.

Yes it is a DIY.

- pull the driver's wheel off
- remove the inner plastic wheel well liner, just some plastic push-pins
- the fuel filter is mounted on the firewall side of the wheel well with a single screw
- remove the plastic r-clips holding the fuel lines onto the filter
- replace the filter - then reverse the steps
The reason I asked was I under stood that on a returnless fuel system was that the fuel lines to the filter were under presure I didnt want to wear any raw gas. thanks fo the info Danny

The reason I asked was I under stood that on a returnless fuel system was that the fuel lines to the filter were under presure I didnt want to wear any raw gas. thanks fo the info Danny

don't worry about it - you need to have a rag handy to catch any spill - but it's not any worse than any other filter swap. I've done it twice, and disconnected the fuel rail at the manifold over a dozen times.

Would this be handy to put in the tech section? It's a link for owners manuals.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Marc

I think that it would be a good idea to make a possible problem/testing/possible fix table that could link articles too. Make them sortable by price or complexity or something...

Any takers?

Here's one everyone wants:

http://www.lskoncepts.com/LSK%20Headlight%20Guide.pdf

takes forever to open.. but yes, its something we all want..

How about a how-to for nitrous setup?? I understand you may need a computer programmer for timing issues or something?? I just curious how much time and $$ it would cost me to get into some spray... thanks...

How about a how-to for nitrous setup?? I understand you may need a computer programmer for timing issues or something?? I just curious how much time and $$ it would cost me to get into some spray... thanks...


every manufactuer has a pretty good install doc for their kit - as they target the DIYer - here the one from NX -> http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/stage1.pdf

Most the questinos I answer around the N2O setup are not the actual kit install but thing like tuning, accessories, colder plugs, ...etc

We should probably start a seperate thread on just N2O setups.

Now this is participation! I'm new at this, but if there is anything I can do to help, please let me know. I used to do a little writing and I'm handy with a camera. I plan on doing many of the things that have been mentioned, I just need the tech articles to assist me. Thanks all,

This is a great idea since I prefer to do all the work myself :)

Here's one that's needed (pretty simple too):

Air Conditioner Recharge (add safety and enviro-disclaimers as required)

1) Jack up LF of vehicle, remove LF wheel.
2) Remove lower plastic shield (tucks up between lower control arm and around sway bar), held in place by plastic push-pin and two screws underneath front of car (no need to remove forward screw, can let shield dangle).
3) Locate low-side R134a port on top of A/C compressor (thru hole exposed by removing above shield). Remove plastic dust cap & o-ring (don't lose o-ring gasket!).
4) Start engine, turn A/C on HI (lower temp to 65F).
5) Attach R134a recharge fitting to low-side port, check pressure. Add refrigerant as required to restore proper pressure. Verify A/C is cooling.
6) Disconnect recharge kit. Turn off engine.
7) Reverse above steps 3)-1) to get car on ground.

JB

It's that time of year. This works on the '00-'02 V8s, the '03+ V8s should be similar but I don't know for sure.

---------------------------------------
FLUSHING FILLING AND BLEEDING THE AIR FROM THE 3.9L V8 LINCOLN LS COOLING SYSTEM

The following is based on my experience changing the coolant on my 2000 LS-8. I have listed the tools required and an overview of the process it takes to achieve a 50/50 mix. At the end, I have included the directions from the 2001 shop manual w/ some of my own hints added in for clarification. The 3.0L V6 has an additional engine bleed valve, and I apologize for not knowing where this is located (perhaps a fellow V6 owner can assist here). I will leave the standard warnings / disclaimers to the shop manual section. The only thing I can add is to make sure the car is on a level surface (this may or may not affect how much coolant can be drained from the radiator).


TOOLS / MATERIALS:

- 19mm socket for the radiator drain
- 10mm hex driver for the engine fill cap (located under the engine cover, just in front of the intake manifold) NOTE: Max torque for the engine fill cap is 9-Nm / 80 in-lb / 6.7 ft-lbs!
- Drain tube for radiator drain (not required, but highly recommended to minimize mess and spillage)
- Container(s) for disposal / recycling of old coolant
- Quart-size measuring cup (clean)
- 2 gallons of new coolant (don't use pre-mixed / diluted coolant)

OVERVIEW:

The 3.9L LS cooling systems holds just under 12 quarts of coolant. Only about 4 quarts of coolant can be drained from the radiator. Therefore to achieve a 50/50 mix of new, clean coolant, follow the following general steps:

1) Drain old coolant (follow DRAINING instructions below).
2) Fill / bleed system (follow FILLING / BLEEDING instructions below) NOTE: If you desire to use a "Super-Flush" type cleaner, add it to this first fill).
3) Drain.
4) Repeat fill / bleed / drain cycle using water only at least 3 times until water is clear coming out of radiator drain.
5) Fill / bleed using 4 quarts of 100% new coolant (this should bring the system to full w/ a 33% mix).
6) Drain out ONLY 3 QUARTS from the radiator using the measuring cup. Pour this fluid back into the empty gallon coolant container for later use.
7) Fill / bleed using 3 quarts of 100% new coolant using the measuring cup (this should bring the system to full w/ a 50% mix).
8) Combine the last remaining 1 qt of 100% new coolant w/ the 3 qts of 33% mix that was drained from the radiator in step 6) above (this will leave you with a gallon of 50% mix for topping off in the future).


DETAILS: What follows is from the LS shop manual. I have added step #s and "HINTS" where appropriate.


SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

GENERAL PROCEDURES

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding

DRAINING:

WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

1) Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.

NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator. (HINT: This is pretty close to 4 qts, YMMV.)

2) Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler. (HINT: I don't think my car was equipped with an oil cooler, so I skipped this step).

3) Close the radiator draincock when finished. (HINT: Before closing the draincock, it helps to "rinse" the system of old fluid by flushing the degas bottle with water until the drain fluid is clear. Also remove the engine fill cap and flush with water until the drain fluid runs clear. Keeping the engine fill cap ON helps drain the degas bottle. Also, it doesn't hurt to open the heater air bleed valve while draining / rinsing.)



FILLING / BLEEDING:

1) On 3.9L engines: Remove the engine fill cap. (HINT: This is located under the engine cover just in front of the intake manifold.)
On 3.0L engines: Open the engine air bleed.

2) On all engines: Open the heater air bleed. (HINT: This is a small rubber tube located adjacent to the master brake cylinder. Un-screw the cap to open, it is not necessary to completely remove the cap-screw.)

3) Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added. (HINT: Keep an eye on the engine fill tube as the fluid may rise up and start to overflow depending on how level the car is. Replace the engine fill cap if this happens. Try to keep the fluid level in the degas bottle in the FULL-COLD range.)

On 3.0L engines: Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.

4) On all engines: Replace the degas bottle cap.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

5) On 3.9L engines: Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open. Replace the engine fill cap. (HINT: This step is not necessary if the engine fill tube overflowed and the cap was reinstalled in step 3) above.)

6) On all engines: Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.

NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

7) Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.

8) Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

9) Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.

10) On 3.9L engines: Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. (HINT: Roll down the windows!)

On 3.0L engines: Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

11) On all engines: Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.

12) Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

13) After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

WHO KEEPS TABS ON THE TECH SECTION SUBMISSIONS?!?! WHO IS RESPONSIBLE FOR KEEPING IT UP TO DATE??? IT'S RIDICULOUS HOW SMALL OUR LS SECTION IS. SOMEONE, WHOEVER NEEDS TO GET ON THE BALL!

YEAH I"M YELLING!

There have been two articles submitted by me on changing out springs, and another one by mharrison. Both of us submitted AND emailed LvC about the write ups.. No response back, not posting to the Tech Section.. Hell, not even a response when we sent a SECOND notice about submission.

This is :bsflag:

I remember there being a tread about LS shortcuts like holding down the unlock button so the moonroof and windows would lower, or holding your remote button when setting your seat.

Do you have a complete list of all of the tricks?

holding remote button when setting the seats? what does this do?

There have been two articles submitted by me on changing out springs, and another one by mharrison. Both of us submitted AND emailed LvC about the write ups.. No response back, not posting to the Tech Section.. Hell, not even a response when we sent a SECOND notice about submission.

Send Joey a PM and tell him to get on the ball!

Wish I would've seen this sooner. I just got done putting on new front brakes and could've put together a pictoral how-to... Guess I can do the rears in a couple months.

Let me take some pics and I'll send you a Tech Article I've already written on Installing a Radar Detector wiring it to the Compass Mirror.

Could you send that to me, too? Don't see it in the tech section, and was going to wire mine up there, too. If it has already been done, I'll be glad to use your advise on it.

mcm@mcmsys.net

Just sent it to you mcmsys. It would be cool if we could get some of these in the tech section!

could u send that write up to me to at npatel12@nyit.edu

If anyone wants them.. Here is a write up on how to change out the springs.
It's for my 2001, but it's for all 00-06 LS's..
It has three files.
1) taking off the front assembly
2) taking off the rear assembly
3) switching the springs

Eibach.zip Download (http://www.mydatabus.com/public/LincolnLS/z/Eibach.zip)

okay im looking for any info on replacing the rear main seal on my 2000 ls. i think i blew out cuz all the oil spilled out of the back of my engine possibly right around where the engine and trans bolt up. and im also wondering if anyone has been able to find an aftermarket off road x or h pipe that directly bolts in. and has anyone made an effort to use O2 cancellers for the rear o2 sensors to keep the check engine light from coming on. all help will be greatly appreciated

I own a 00 v6 5spd and Im about to reaplce the tranny's rear seal, rear mount and the rubber things that goes on the driveshaft, they r 2. My dad is a mechanic so Ima be taking pictures step by step. Im also about to build my own angel eyes or try to! and about to install HIDs low beams and fogs, I will do the pics as well.
Oh by the way, my dad has one of those programs for mechanic shops that has diagrams of all cars wirings, I think that may be usefull for somebody. I can get some other stuff from that program about sensors, check engine codes and a lot of stuff, I just need to figure how to use that program! lol
Also, my a/c compressor is leaking oil so it may die anytime, n since I live in south FL I cant ride with no a/c so if I need to replace it or fix it will do the pics too. Damn thats a lot of pics! but whatever I do to the car, since me n my dad always work on the car ( meaning I never pay for labor nor trust it to any1 else besides my dad) I'll be taking pics and writing about the experience.
Now, somethin I need! is the step by step how to, to install projectors!

Here, at least, is some info---brought to you at the request of Ken at LSKoncepts. I have added his intake tube to my '02 LS, along with a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust. Through a connection too long to relate here I am also sponsored by NX and use one of their Pro systems which is also metered to run methanol along with the N2O. The only other modifications are a set of 18 inch wheels and Michelin Pilot P-2s in 245/45 size, a set of ceramic/metallic pads all around, and a 60% belly pan. With this combination I set four records at Maxton, NC at the last ECTA event. (E/F CC--140.106 MPH)

I'll be back next year with a four litre Jag engine and a C-4/GearVendors OD combo. More later---and you can read about it in an up-coming issue of Turbo & High Tech Magazine.

yyeah... so... when are they going to be added (cough)

be nice to get that how to wire my V1 to my Mirror uknowmehfo@aol.com

It would be cool if we could get some of these in the tech section!

+1 asap

Hope this helps!

hydraulic fan fluid flush

materials needed...
1 gallon of dexron ATF (as per owners manual)
2 1" screw hose clams
1 hose coupler 5/16th's
1 pump/suction gun
3-5 feet of 5/16ths (or close to it) rubber hose
1 tall slim funnel
and its best to have another person with you


Step 1: Preperation....
A. remove engine cover and set aside.
B. remove air intake/hoses and set aside.
C. open cap for fan fluid reservoir and remove filter/strainer (it just snaps in)
D. use suction gun to remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoir

Removing resevoir...
A. remove top screw holding on reservoir
B. remove 2nd screw on the lower rear side of the reservoir (8mm)
C. remove the 2 hoses on the bottom of resevoir by pressing the tabs together and sliding them down the hoses.

hoses may need some persuading to come off if the car has high mileage on it.

Step 3: Flushing the system...
A. Insert hose coupler into the smaller hose and tighten it down with one of the hose clamps
B. attach 3-5 ft of 5/16ths hose onto the other side of the coupler and route to a drain pan to catch the fluid.
C. reinstall the air intake tube and all hoses.
D. start car for a short period of time to check for leaks comming from the coupler and to lower the feed hose. (easier with 2 people)
E. use either the pump or the tall slim funnel to fill the larger diameter feed line with ATF mercon. be careful not to overfill it.
F. have the other person start the car
G. carefully start the car and fill the feed line with atf as the return line drains into the drain pan.

Continue untill the fluid appears clean and then turn off the car. I find it was a bit less messy to start the car once more just to get the level on the feed line down a bit so its not leaking everywhere.

Reverse Step 2 to reconnect the reservoir and hoses.

Step 4: Refilling the resevoir
A. Pour ATF mercon into the reservoir untill it reaches the max line.
B. Start car and let it run.
C. add fluid as needed to maintain the correct fluid level
D. Put cap and filter back on/in the reservoir