I finally found the proper Torx bit to install the LMS/C&L housing so I did it today in the morning. I had already put on the 9 inch K&N conical about a week ago. At first, the car was idling rough but after running it for awhile and going around the block a couple times it has smoothed out a bit. Hopefully the rough idle will go away completely after 2 full drive cycles. I can't really tell if it made a difference but we'll see at the track. I also have this CEL light that comes on and off from time to time. It's code 189, system adapative at limit at partial throttle/system lean. I actually got this code first in the morning before I installed MAF housing. Any idea why it's coming on and then turning off and not staying on the whole time? If it's just popping up randomly and disappearing is it just a dummy light?

it only appears when the condition exists.

try moving the MAF sensor around. Try 12:00, 3:00, 9:00 etc. I had the same problem you are experiencing Geno told me this and I found my sweet spot.

Also try disconnecting your battery and resetting the computer. Then at least you don't have to wait several drive cycles for things to work out.

Did you get the maf from us? If so we include the tamper torx bit with EVERY ubit we sell free of charge. Whats the mileage on the car? Does it have a recent fuel filter change? Also check your fuel pressure at wot between 4k and shift points.

Yes Brent is correct, find the sweet spot. You will see a difference.

I bought the kit used with no tool. I haven't changed fuel filter in over 40k miles so I need to change that pretty soon but I always run 91 premium from Chevron or 76 and use the Chevron Techron fuel cleaner frequently. I don't know what my fuel pressure is from 4k to 6600k because I have the gauge sitting on top of the schrader valve. At idle with the vacuum on it's at 35psi right now. I have an SCT chip with modified air/fuel curves as well. I have the MAF housing sitting in the factory position. I ran the stock maf like this with no problems.

I bought the kit used with no tool. I haven't changed fuel filter in over 40k miles so I need to change that pretty soon but I always run 91 premium from Chevron or 76 and use the Chevron Techron fuel cleaner frequently. I don't know what my fuel pressure is from 4k to 6600k because I have the gauge sitting on top of the schrader valve. At idle with the vacuum on it's at 35psi right now. I have an SCT chip with modified air/fuel curves as well. I have the MAF housing sitting in the factory position. I ran the stock maf like this with no problems.

unplug chip. then see if you get the same code!.

I my conical and throttle body tube connections weren't tight enough so I think I had a small vacuum leak. I reset the battery and turned the mass air over to the side and I don't get the CEL anymore. It still idles slightly rough in park but I think the ecu is slowly adjusting. I now notice some performance increase, I floored it on the freeway going 60mph and it got to 95mph real quick...

Update: I still get the CEL light on/off but it only happens when I take a turn fast. Why is the MAF not reading incoming air properly when taking a turn? Any ideas?

You have to scan it again to see what code it is.

It is code 189, fuel system at rich adaptative limit at partial throttle/ system lean. I noticed that when I drive the car around for awhile and put it in park, it will idle fine but if I start the car while it's been sitting for awhile, it will idle decently at 800rpm but when it drops to 600rpm it fluctuates and idles rough. Driving around, the car feels good and at WOT the car performs well except above 6000rpm. When the car shifts, there is a backfire? Any help is appreciated, I'm hoping I don't have to put the stock mass air back on because I think the C&L actually is less restrictive and helps flow a bit. Fuel pressure at idle has gone down to 30psi even though I set it at 35psi.

Keep clocking the MAF. Start at the stock location and change it an "hour" at a time. Disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes with each adjustment and give the car enough time to "relearn" after each adjustment. A long drawn out procedure, but it should fix you up....unless you actually have a leak somewhere.

Also, don't go past the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Not good to put the sensor low. One last thing. I have seen A LOT of K & N filter set ups give these types of codes. It changes the way the air enters the MAF and no amount of clocking will fix it. They will also coat the wire due to excessive oil on the filter. Probably not your problem, but cleaning the wire would be the first thing I would do.

Also, don't go past the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Not good to put the sensor low.

I found that my setup worked best, stopped giving me the CEL, and never hesitated when I have the MAF at the 6 o'clock position. I don't understand why it would be bad to put the sensor low, it whatever works best.

You said he put the fp at 35 and it dropped to 30? If so you have a serious fuel delivery issue that has nothng to do with the maf at all. Check your fp under a load above 4500 rpm's.

If its below 40 at all then you need a pump. You should change the fuel filter too.

I changed the fuel filter yesterday, same codes. I am now also getting code 59 low speed fuel pump circuit not working. I found out the variable relay control module controls this, have you guys ever heard of the vrcm going bad? In any case, I swapped to the stock MAF housing and the CEL is gone but I still get the same codes while the engine is running. Also, with the vacuum off the fuel pressure is at 45psi at idle. At idle with the vacuum on it's anywhere from 31-34psi. If I rev it just a little bit, it quickly jumps to 40psi so I don't think the fuel delivery is bad. Another code I got was oxygen sensor voltage high/system rich. I installed new Motorcraft 02's about 10k miles ago. Can it be just the VCRM going bad?

I found that my setup worked best, stopped giving me the CEL, and never hesitated when I have the MAF at the 6 o'clock position. I don't understand why it would be bad to put the sensor low, it whatever works best.

Because moisture is heavier than air...and it will end up in your meter. Especially at the 6:00 position. Standing moisture will get to it there. If you're not having issues, don't worry about it. But everyone I know recommends avoiding this.

Would anyone be interested in buying the LMS/C&L 80mm housing from me? PM me your best offer... I don't have the money to get my car tuned for it right now because I spent it all on rear end work.

IT IS your fuel pump for sure, especially with those codes. It doesn't matter at all what youe fp is when you free rev the engine, there is NO demand there. You have to check it under a load. What is the milage of the car?

I know what a weak or failing fuel pump feels like. When my stock fuel pump was going out around 100k, I noticed it just didn't feel like it pulled hard enough in the upper rpm. I got a Walbro 255lph from you guys (LMS) and I don't think it is weak or failing even though I have 60k miles on it. The car now has almost 164k miles.