This is strictly an informational post. No haters, please. I feel guilty enough as it is.

I converted my suspension from air to coils because my compressor went out. If I had gotten a rebuilt compressor, I would have also purchased a spider-valve from American Air Suspensions to do it right and guarantee (somewhat) my new compressor would last. Plus, I knew it was just a matter of time before my drivers-side needed replaced. The rears may have lasted longer, but again, it was just a matter of time. Hopefully I can also recoup some of my money by selling my old air parts. So the dollars added up, and here I am with a coil suspension now.

With that explanation out of the way (I did my homework, so please no "yeah, but" remarks. Thanks.), here's my experience:

Following BlackIce's instructions, the conversion on my 97 Mark VIII was relatively simple. I didn't have any bad experiences like fossten had (but I just may be a lot stronger than him ;) ). Having previously sensor-lowered the car and replaced the front passenger-side air/strut, I was familiar with the parts involved. The conversion went pretty much as the instructions stated with the following minor problems. I removed the bolt that connected the wish-bone (upper control arm?) to the steering knuckle on the passenger side, but the knuckle did not release the wish-bone. So a little hammering persuaded it loose. There was also a minor problem with the new coil/strut on the passenger side. The lower forks would not line up with the lower control arm, so the bolt would not thread through. It was off a few degrees. I was used to everything lining up perfectly, as it did with my previous air/strut replacement and the drivers-side coil/strut. Here's a pic:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/555000-555999/555977_9_full.jpg

I put a long extension through both the lower forks to line them up together in the pic. You can see how the top 3 bolts on the coil/strut are not in the same position as the air/strut. I was concerned so I contacted the manufacturer. They assured me that I could twist it a little and it would be fine. So I secured the top 3 bolts in the engine compartment and I used a pipe wrench to turn the bottom of the strut. Turning it did not permanently move the clocking? of the strut, but I was able to thread the bolt through (with the help of a hammer) while applying force to the pipe wrench. I am a little concerned that there is a constant twisting torque on the bottom of the strut, but hopefully nothing will come of it.

I got the lowered kit, and it's about 1/2 inch lower than I had it set at when I sensor-lowered it. But it looks good. There is some faint noise with the springs in the rear sporadically, but I think mainly because I'm super-sensitive to it right now. The ride feels pretty much the same, but the air ride is cushier. Going over a rise, the new coils feel like they spring the car up with a slight hop. This is the same for all other coil cars I have driven as well. With the air, you do not experience this slight, springy hop. It corners slightly better with the coils. It just feels a little tighter. The new parts totalled 70 lbs. The parts that I took off (front air/struts, rear bags, front sensors, compressor & dryer) totalled 40 lbs. So my car is now 30 lbs heavier. And correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume this is unsprung weight, which is worse than adding sprung weight.

In conclusion, I am satisfied with the swap so far. If money was no object, I would have kept the air ride simply because I liked that quality. I can't brag about my car having air suspension any more. That's my story.

If my compressor goes I will probably just replace it, but if any mroe goes I will do the coil swap as well. I imagine there is some weight savings to be had removing all of the air suspension components and replacing with a standard setup.

Don't need to feel ashamed of swapping the air ride...

I had to do it to my 93 also...

I love the ride you get from the coils springs very nice...

Sometimes it comes down to how much money do you have to spend on your car..

I didn't want to have to do anymore air ride repairs to my 93 so I did my swap..

I imagine there is some weight savings to be had removing all of the air suspension components and replacing with a standard setup.No. As stated in my post, the coil suspension parts are 30 lbs (total) heavier than the air suspension parts.

Also, I noticed the ride is a little bouncier. I did not replace the rear shocks, partly due to money and partly due to comparison reasons. I believe once I replace the shocks that some of the bounce will be alleviated. But all things being equal, the coils are a little bouncier than the air.

[Bites Lip]no comment.http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com//images/icons/icon12.gif

No. As stated in my post, the coil suspension parts are 30 lbs (total) heavier than the air suspension parts.

Also, I noticed the ride is a little bouncier. I did not replace the rear shocks, partly due to money and partly due to comparison reasons. I believe once I replace the shocks that some of the bounce will be alleviated. But all things being equal, the coils are a little bouncier than the air.

I actually did not read your entire post (oops). That's crazy that the swap weighs more, but I guess I can see that.

Yeah, I had to hammer that dang wishbone too. I had to hammer everything.

I must say after a couple of months I am really happy with the conversion. The car rides pretty tight, and I think when I replace the rear shocks the back won't hop as much on bumps.

Tip: Don't go too fast through intersections where there is a steep crown in the cross road or you will go up, then bottom out. Not pleasant when your undercarriage hits the ground.

I'm getting my coversion kit put on this Fri. or Mon. I have the standard coil spring kit. I like the way my car sit in the vented position. I will take pics and post. I might miss coming off the highway and the passenger says when you get to a stop sign "Your car is moving up.....can you feel it? I say" no what are you talking about".