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Cobra Intake Swappers?

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Posted by: Tractionless

Anyone out there swap a 96-98 Cobra intake etc. to a Gen2? If so can you describe the process and parts needed. The reason I ask is because I keep seeing bits of information out there but nothing really complete. Everything from Cobra throttle cable to moving the factory cruise control unit etc.

Here is the info. I have so far.
Parts needed: Upper and lower cobra intake 96-98, two rear bolts for intake, Cobra intake tube, Cobra IAC tube, Gaskets, If i keep the egr Cobra fuel rails, but do i need a cobra egr valve? Will i get a check engine light etc. if I get rid of my egr? Block off plate for egr, cap header nipple to egr.

Additional work: flip over my stock TB cut the and cut the bracket in half to fit the cobra intake. To run cruise I have to move my cruise contol module in the drivers wheel well to make the cable longer. Does this include cutting wires etc?

I can handle all of this just need all the info. and if anyone disagrees with anything above. I will do a VFAQ on the install so its out there for anyone else who need the info etc.

Thanks

Posted by: StraDog

I know Jeremi, ModPWR, has done it all on both Gen 1's and 2's. If he doesn't post soon, give him a PM.

Posted by: evillally

Quote:

Will i get a check engine light etc. if I get rid of my egr? Block off plate for egr, cap header nipple to egr.

Yes, you'll need a computer chip tune to eliminate the egr function from the EEC emission control module. You'll also want the cobra fuel rails for better fitment.

I've been waiting to swap mine, but I need to complete my transmission build-up first since I have no other powetrain mods. My 3000 stall converter and valve body modifications are going first. I'll have a few questions myself, since I've never done this before. I do plan on completing a tech article for the page when the swap is completed...

Posted by: bhickmott

I made the swap about 2 years ago. Here's my post that I made to one of the other forums at that time.

Went pretty much as expected, given the extensive rearch that I did prior to digging in. Dan Rotolante and Robman2 provided some great step by step procedures and Max at Five Star Ford provided an assembly drawing which really prepped me for what I was getting into. Geno would have been my back-up for info.

As far as the swap goes you can re-use the manifold & IMRC gaskets. You need some additional vacuum lines of varying sizes. The throttle body mounts upside down. You can rework the stock throttle cable bracket, but you must relocate the speed control box (under the driver side fender well) to get more cable length. The stock fuel rails will work with the short-comings mentioned above. I found a Cobra fuel rail set for $100 shipped which seem to be the going price. (I've got an extra set if you're interested). I made my own Throttle body to MAF tube, but will probably pick up a Cobra unit.

I put the unit on with no porting, just to try it. I've subsequently removed/reinstalled it to do the port matching that Dan mentioned in his reply. Some of the rearward primary ports are really blocked by the split for the IMRC port. This blockage can be trimmed back substantially. (trim back the other ports as well) You will also see a casting ridge where port tubes join the manifold. Just flip the manifold over and it's pretty self evident waht needs to be done as far as clean-up goes. Other than that just port match the manifold to the IMRC plate. (you can grid the edges of the butterflies if you really want to get into it)

Performance is noticably improved, particularly when the IMRC kicks in at 3000 rpm. I don't notice any loss of low end performance, but the EGR delete could be making up for that. In theory, the Cobra manifold does not have as good a runner velocity as the Mark manifold. I plan to try the EGR when I get my Cobra fuel rails installed. (right now I am using the Mark rails, but the fuel pressure reg is right under the Cobra EGR, so you have to remove the EGR valve) The Cobra rails position the fuel pressure reg on the other side of the motor.

Without the EGR connected, you will get a check engine light after a 100 miles or so. If you have an OBDII code reader you can easily reset the light by clearing the eror code. (Harbor freight sells a "cheapy" reader for $39.95)

I'm not into drag strip attendance, so I don't have any before and after time slips. The biggest indicator of actual increased power is in the 1 -2 shift with this set-up. I used to break the tires with a little side-ways slide motion on the shift. Now the side-ways slide is significantly enhanced and the tires continue to much spin much longer than before. The 2 - 3 shift seems firmer as well. I think the increased power in the upper rpm range is finally starting to make 2-3 Jerry mod start to work. ( I was never pleased with 2-3 shift after I did the 300-450 HP Jerry mod. The 1-2 was great, but the 2-3 wasn't as good. Now it's much better. I think it's a function of horsepower).

That's pretty much it. In my opinion I think this change did as much for performance as the gear change to 3.73's. (I now have 4.10's, but had not tried them with this set-up when this was written in Sep 03). I think it's definitely a swap you want to make !

Bill
98 Blk on Blk (See mods under profile)
bhickmott@ironworksep.com

"You buy a car once, but you pay for it everyday"

Posted by: evillally

Alright, I know where the PCV and brake booster go. But lines go to the highlighted?

Posted by: 94m5

Quote:

Originally Posted by evillally

Alright, I know where the PCV and brake booster go. But lines go to the highlighted?

I'll be headed over to the garage here in a minute, I'll let you know when I get back.

Posted by: 94m5

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94m5

I'll be headed over to the garage here in a minute, I'll let you know when I get back.

The one with only question marks.........Fuel pressure regulator, and HVAC. I did'nt check the other, but I can't think of anything else, because the IMRC's are electrically opperated in the cobra intake.

Posted by: evillally

I'll have to see pictures or up close to see what hooks to what. Thanks for your help, mucho appreciated...

Posted by: Kbob

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhickmott

Dan Rotolante and Robman2 provided some great step by step procedures and Max at Five Star Ford provided an assembly drawing which really prepped me for what I was getting into.

Do you have the step by step procedures? Also, did the assembly drawing cost anything?

Posted by: Tractionless

I have the assembly pic from the Cobra. Email me and I'll upload it to you. In return if you find some step by step procedures please provide me with them. We can make it though this together!!

Email Tractionless@adelphia.net

Posted by: evillally

E-mail sent. Thanks...

Posted by: Kbob

You guys have been promising, but I certainly hope a tech article is coming. This mod has happened so often, yet it's still a great mystery to most of us because only the ones that have done it are the ones that know how to do it. It's almost like some rite of passage thing.

Anyway, good luck with the swaps!

Posted by: bhickmott

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kbob

Do you have the step by step procedures? Also, did the assembly drawing cost anything?

Hey Guys .... I'll see if I can find the step by step info that I got from Dan and Robman2. That's going back about 2 1/2 years ... the thread may still be on on the old MarkVIII Message board.

I have the Ford assy diagram (4mb file), some porting pictures (before & after) and several different views (photos) of a finished installation (not mine). I can email what you need. Just drop me an email.

I wanted to create some step by step photos, but when your in the middle of the job, covered in grease, that somehow became an after thought. My post earlier in this thread gives you the big picture of what's involved and the results you can expect.

Posted by: bhickmott

Here's the first thread talking about parts and procedures

http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dc...ng_type=search

Here's the second more detailed step by step thread (see #9 from Robman2

http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dc...ng_type=search

Posted by: bhickmott

For some reason the full link to the pages on MarkVIII Message Board will not copy to this site.

To find them do an Advanced Search on the MarkVIII Message board. Type in bhickmott as the keyword. Select Author for the "search which fields"

The first post is titled "Cost for Cobra Intake Conversion" dated April 10, 04 (date was actually May 6, 03 .... must have got altered when they changed the site)

The second post is titled "Cobra intake swap .... Questions on procedure" dated April 10,04 (date was actually Aug 4, 03)

Posted by: Tractionless

Awesome finally some great info!! Thanks a bunch!

Posted by: bhickmott

Here's another post regarding vacuum connections that you should check out.

This is on the www.lincolnsclub.org website

Do an advanced search. Type in "Those with cobra intakes" as the keywords. Select "and" as the search logic. Select "drivetrain" as the forum

The title is "Those with cobra intakes" dated Oct 31, 03

Posted by: evillally

Thanks everybody for all the info!

Posted by: evillally

Tractionless is da f'in man! Thanks for the massive dose of info!

Posted by: Tractionless

No problem glad to help.

Bill did you have to remove the water pipe and alternator. This scares me most and I would like to venture away from that if possible.

Posted by: Tractionless

EGR delete part# E69Z-9D440-A

Posted by: evillally

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless

No problem glad to help.

Bill did you have to remove the water pipe and alternator. This scares me most and I would like to venture away from that if possible.

Found this in on of the linked-threads posted earlier in this thread...

Quote:

Remove the alternator, NOTE just remove the water pipe and upper alt bolts, then loosen the bolts at the base of the alt behind the water pump pulley, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE LOWER BOLTS the alternator is slotted, this will prevent you from having to pull the water pump pully etc, especially if you have underdrives

Posted by: bhickmott

I suppose you could try to do the job with them still in place, but what's the point ? They are easy to remove and the job is so much easier with them out of the way.

You could leave the hood on also, if you like to work blind at odd angles.

Posted by: Tractionless

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhickmott

I suppose you could try to do the job with them still in place, but what's the point ? They are easy to remove and the job is so much easier with them out of the way.

You could leave the hood on also, if you like to work blind at odd angles.

Naw, hood is no problem. I hate dealing with belts, and having to bleed the cooling system etc. I used to work on my previous car so much to race it that I wound up getting rid of it because I was working on it more than driving it. I guess I'm still kinda stressed out from it, and that was over 2 yrs ago!

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