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Pages: 1

Salt + Oilpan = rust hole. Pics of job.

(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: Viss

http://www.geocities.com/confiscviiitor/oilpan.html

^#%$@^%$ Wisconsin winters!

But the job wasn't so bad after all! Fabricated a brace from channel at Home Depot, welded some 2" angle iron on the ends, got 3/8" threaded rod out of the trash, and bought metric bolts to hold the eyelets on to the alternator mounting holes, thereby supporting the engine. Used an E-18 Impact socket to drop the frame underneath, unhooked tierods and front airshocks

VERY sturdy, passed the wiggle test by far.

Entire job with a 45 min break, Steeda pulley kit, MSD Coils, thermostat replacement, and removing the airlines & turning air ride on to release bag pressure, and all the messing around, including floor scrubbing and total cleanup, 12 hours. Estimated driveway time: 7-8 hours

Oilpan from Max at 5-star Ford, shipped in 2 freakin days! Woo!

Car runs like a champ, so SMOOTH now. Only put 30 miles on it, but it was snowing and you all know how the pre-HID Mark headlights suck ass.

This will happen to you someday, if you live in the north salting states. The bracket thats welded on to the oilpan to hold on that baffle is flimsy, and will rust away in no time at all. I wish we'd taken better pictures, but we just wanted to get it done.

Posted by: Ricksquickviii

Hi bud,

your pics are not loading up?

Rick

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viss

http://www.geocities.com/confiscviiitor/oilpan.html

^#%$@^%$ Wisconsin winters!

But the job wasn't so bad after all! Fabricated a brace from channel at Home Depot, welded some 2" angle iron on the ends, got 3/8" threaded rod out of the trash, and bought metric bolts to hold the eyelets on to the alternator mounting holes, thereby supporting the engine. Used an E-18 Impact socket to drop the frame underneath, unhooked tierods and front airshocks

VERY sturdy, passed the wiggle test by far.

Entire job with a 45 min break, Steeda pulley kit, MSD Coils, thermostat replacement, and removing the airlines & turning air ride on to release bag pressure, and all the messing around, including floor scrubbing and total cleanup, 12 hours. Estimated driveway time: 7-8 hours

Oilpan from Max at 5-star Ford, shipped in 2 freakin days! Woo!

Car runs like a champ, so SMOOTH now. Only put 30 miles on it, but it was snowing and you all know how the pre-HID Mark headlights suck ass.

This will happen to you someday, if you live in the north salting states. The bracket thats welded on to the oilpan to hold on that baffle is flimsy, and will rust away in no time at all. I wish we'd taken better pictures, but we just wanted to get it done.

Posted by: ERIC1

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricksquickviii

Hi bud,

your pics are not loading up?

Rick

dude this is a job i MUST perform in the VERY near future my 98 lsc has been laid up for 4 monthes now too cold i have a crane so supportin the motor isnt an issue i need to know exactly what yo had to take off. did you need to drop the engine mount bolts or the sway bar end links or anyo of that sh!t. your pics dont load so id you could send them to me directly at escherer1@aol.com id be very happy thanks alot
Eric

Posted by: Cubster

Now that its been mentioned, the last time I had my oil changed I noticed that the oil pan had what looked like a rust abscess on it, I mentioned it to the mechanic, he said, sooner or later I'll develop a leak at that point, now, where I'm going to have a front sway bar installed will it be much more work at that time to replace my oil pan. I'm thinking why not !! Might save some $$$ down the line.

Posted by: Viss

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubster

Now that its been mentioned, the last time I had my oil changed I noticed that the oil pan had what looked like a rust abscess on it, I mentioned it to the mechanic, he said, sooner or later I'll develop a leak at that point, now, where I'm going to have a front sway bar installed will it be much more work at that time to replace my oil pan. I'm thinking why not !! Might save some $$$ down the line.

I posted the exact method at markviii.org, I disconnected the air strut lines & turned the key on to pump out the air from them, and unbolted the bottom of the struts. Disconnected the outer tie rods, and used an E-18 external torx bit to remove the 8 bolts from the subframe (after removing a few 8mm bolts holding in some stuff in the front) Did not have to remove the rack or any lines. It might be hell to do in the driveway. Unbolted the steering columb below from the rack, that was all I had to do. The Ford manual on CD (get on eBay for $6 or from someone on forums) has detailed pics. I took out the wheelwells for room and light & access to other things like the t-Stat and fuel filter.

Geocities.com has per-hour bandwidth useage, so I'll have to reduce the quality or image size if I get lots of page hits.

Posted by: Jamler3

I saw lots of rust in those pictures... Man, better break out some Rustolium!!!

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