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Pages: 1

Need Help With 2000 LTC Starting Problem

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Posted by: 2000TC

Dear LVC Community:

Greetings to you all. My name is Neil and this is my first post!

I'm having a starting problem on my 2000 Lincoln Town Car (with 60,000 miles). Here are the details:

When I turn the key to start the car, the car will just keep cranking and cranking, and never fire at all--not even once.

So I thought it might be the fuel pump, so here's what I did: got some starting fluid and shot it in the throttle body. Initially it didn't work. Same problem, just perpetual cranking with no firing or running at all. Then, I repeated the process with more starting fluid and the car fired right up--but the car kept running (it didn't stall after a few seconds--which I thought it would do if it was the fuel pump, right?). So I went and drove the car for 15 minutes and everything was normal while driving it. Incidentally, I put in a brand new Die Hard, so I'm thinking to myself: "Great, problem solved." That is, until I got back in the driveway and shut the car off and immediately tried to restart it: same exact problem as before.

So, here's the strange thing: I let the car cool off and repeated the same procedure: shot starting fluid in the throttle body. This time before I took off on a test drive and got the car up to operating tempature I thought I'd test restarting it cold: to my surprise, I could start the car, turn it off, then restart it with no problem--before the car was up to operating temperature, in fact I started it like this 15 times in the driveway with not one failure--all this was before the test drive. Next I took the car out for another 15-minute test drive, got it up to operating temperature, pulled back in the drive, shut the car off and immediately tried to start the car--and it would never start! At that point, it just keeps cranking and cranking with not one hint of the car firing or starting!

So what could it be? A relay? Or could it somehow be the fuel pump? No way on the fuel pump, right--because wouldn't it be impossible for the car to operate 100% normally on the 15 minute test drive if it was the fuel pump?

Hoping one of you experts can crack this case for me.

Thank you very much in advance.

Best regards,

Neil.


Posted by: 2000TC

Greetings all.

I'm having a starting problem on my 2000 Lincoln Town Car (with 60,000 miles). Here are the details:

When I turn the key to start the car, the car will just keep cranking and cranking, and never fire at all--not even once.

So I thought it might be the fuel pump, so here's what I did: got some starting fluid and shot it in the throttle body. Initially it didn't work. Same problem, just perpetual cranking with no firing or running at all. Then, I repeated the process with more starting fluid and the car fired right up--but the car kept running (it didn't stall after a few seconds--which I thought it would do if it was the fuel pump, right?). So I went and drove the car for 15 minutes and everything was normal while driving it. Incidentally, I put in a brand new Die Hard, so I'm thinking to myself: "Great, problem solved." That is, until I got back in the driveway and shut the car off and immediately tried to restart it: same exact problem as before.

So, here's the strange thing: I let the car cool off and repeated the same procedure: shot starting fluid in the throttle body. This time before I took off on a test drive and got the car up to operating tempature I thought I'd test restarting it cold: to my surprise, I could start the car, turn it off, then restart it with no problem--before the car was up to operating temperature, in fact I started it like this 15 times in the driveway with not one failure--all this was before the test drive. Next I took the car out for another 15-minute test drive, got it up to operating temperature, pulled back in the drive, shut the car off and immediately tried to start the car--and it would never start! At that point, it just keeps cranking and cranking with not one hint of the car firing or starting!

So what could it be? A relay? Or could it somehow be the fuel pump? No way on the fuel pump, right--because wouldn't it be impossible for the car to operate 100% normally on the 15 minute test drive if it was the fuel pump?

Hoping one of you experts can crack this case for me.

Thank you very much in advance.

Best regards,

Neil.


Posted by: evillally

Did you try the fuel cut-off switch, located in the trunk?


Posted by: 2000TC

Quote:
Originally Posted by evillally
Did you try the fuel cut-off switch, located in the trunk?
Dear Evillally:

No, I didn't try the fuel cut-off. Will do so and report back.

Let me ask: Is it basically a "reset" button--or is it simply an on-off switch?

Thanks very much, Neil.


Posted by: 2000TC

Update: went to Autozone...and they couldn't help me. They can only read OMBII codes when the "Check Engine" light is displayed. My Check Engine light was not on--nonetheless, they did a scan anyway, with showed nothing wrong...any ideas now? I've heard now it could be the Idle Air Control Motor? Thanks in advance, Neil.


Posted by: Pepsi2185

If you turn the ignition on and off about 5 or 6 times before you crank when it is not starting does it help. The reason is i wonder if the fuel pump is allowing fuel to feed back into the tank. Did you check fuel pressure when it does not turn over? If it is not a fuel pump issue and iginition issue is gonna be lots of fun to investigate.


Posted by: 2000TC

***UPDATE ON PROBLEM***

Went to an honest neighborhood shop that I trust and here's what was found:

First off, the problem continues--on an intermitent basis mind you--that is--the car starts right up sometimes with no problems, other times not, regardless of whether the car is hot or cold. While driving, performance is 100% as normal, no hesitation at all.

The shop was having trouble getting the problem to reoccur (naturally, given Murphy's Law), but it finally did--and here's what they found:

The main code, in their opinion, was the P1260 code (theft detected engine disabled). He said he thinks the problem is with the Passive Anti-Theft System--basically, he says the car thinks it's being stolen every now and then when I try and start my own car! He said Ford has issued a TSB on this...and that basically it's something only Ford can diagnose--or an idenpendent with very sophisticated "Ford" equipement.

Wondering was everyone's thoughts are at this point.

Thanks again in advance for everyone's help.

Best regards,

Neil.


Posted by: Pepsi2185

I work on the passive anti theft system now and then. Does the led or theft light blink when the car will not start. Have you tried using the other key that came with the car???


Posted by: Pepsi2185

HOws that coming along bro, any luck on that, you try using the other key???


Posted by: beeftallywacker

Neil,

I feel your pain. I had the same exact problem with my old Town Car (1995). I put it off for over a year for fear that it would have cost me a lot of money. Finally I broke down (no pun intended) and took it to my dealership. What was the problem?

Fuel pump relay!

A $37.50 part was the problem.

It is an easy fix...there are two relays (the other one is the A/C relay). You can buy a relay at any FLM dealership and simply unplug the old relay and plug in the new relay. That should solve your problem.

Good Luck!


Posted by: l-m tech

if you can open the throttle a little bit when you ar trying to start the carwhen completely cold,and it starts,your idle air control valve could be sticking shut,not allowing air into the engine.the fuel injectors will still operate causing the engine to flood.all of this is aggrivated if you live in a climate that is 32 and below ,or if you use high octaine gas. keep us posted


Posted by: MonsterMark

I would guess you are either dealing with a crank or cam sensor issue. I would replace both. Sometimes the wires get corroded inside the plug. They 'look' connected but inside they have started to short and the cold 'contraction' widens the gap just enough to cause the 'no fire' situation. Hit up one of the vendors on the board. They have the sensors for cheap. The cam is easy to do. A bit more work to do the crank.


Posted by: Arlene442

I'm having the same problem. Did you figure out the problem?


Posted by: Arlene442

I'm having the same problem. Have you figured out the problem?


Posted by: I_AM_A_NINJA

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000TC
***UPDATE ON PROBLEM***

Went to an honest neighborhood shop that I trust and here's what was found:

First off, the problem continues--on an intermitent basis mind you--that is--the car starts right up sometimes with no problems, other times not, regardless of whether the car is hot or cold. While driving, performance is 100% as normal, no hesitation at all.

The shop was having trouble getting the problem to reoccur (naturally, given Murphy's Law), but it finally did--and here's what they found:

The main code, in their opinion, was the P1260 code (theft detected engine disabled). He said he thinks the problem is with the Passive Anti-Theft System--basically, he says the car thinks it's being stolen every now and then when I try and start my own car! He said Ford has issued a TSB on this...and that basically it's something only Ford can diagnose--or an idenpendent with very sophisticated "Ford" equipement.

Wondering was everyone's thoughts are at this point.

Thanks again in advance for everyone's help.

Best regards,

Neil.

Im having these exact problems, when i start my car(2000 lincoln ls) at times the theft detection blinker blinks extremely fast and my vehicle wont start. Does anyone have a solution to this issue, or a suggestion to what action i should take?

~thnx ^^




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