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yes, big difference! Thanks guys.
Ill be happy to answer any questions anyone has about the mods or anything about the car, happy to help! |
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what kind of rpm are you running at 70?
how much time and money do you have into that intake?all together. how much did you spend on getting the gears in? |
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Why so lean before the tune?
Nice pull on the dyno, now on to the track! ![]() |
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about how much does a dyno tune cost?
P.S Nice job, that badass. ![]() |
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Good stuff! Just a quickie... is the race weight in your profile a typo?
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......Gen2's read from the ABS for the speedometer, the trans is the one that needs to be adjusted for the change in gears.
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NICE
......Gen2's read from the ABS for the speedometer, the trans is the one that needs to be adjusted for the change in gears. |
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so is my speedo right or do i have to get into the Xcal2 and change trans ??? please elaborate and thank you!
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Thats crazy that it was soo lean right? i was very suprised!
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but just plugging in the programmer to hold 3rd gear and turn off the light, with the base map, it read a very lean 16:1..
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NICE
......Gen2's read from the ABS for the speedometer, the trans is the one that needs to be adjusted for the change in gears. |
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No. It was a bit much with the stock 3.07 gears. I have some issues with the 4.10/trac lok that went in over the weekend. It's making some godawful noises so I am not driving it until I bring it back tomorrow for the shop to fix what the problem is. Once everything is done I will get a vid and post it up since your not the first person that asked.
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I was running all stock ECU values with a check engine light. but i had all the mods to the intake was causing way more air and no more fuel!. i have the conical filter, cobra manifold with direct runners, and ported throttlebody..
Thats crazy that it was soo lean right? i was very suprised! |
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I see you have a few differences for your MAF with the C&L tube and the LMS MAF. If those were in place before the tune then they were likely why your AFR's were off. Those additional airflow mods (intake, filter, TB) you mention will still pull additional aircharge through your MAF so the AFR's will not be thrown terribly off by those alone. They will slightly change as is the game when changing any variable in a combination. You start fiddling with either the MAF electronics or the housing and your AFR's can change a whole bunch. How much depends on what kind of changes were made.
Also the reason why your CEL shut off right after the reflash is because your KAM was cleared during the reflash. Of course if nothing else was changed then the code would come back again. |
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You are correct on the MAF, i did have the correct sampling tube for the stock injectors though, but yes, your right that did change the a/f ratio. The Keep Alive Memory idea, i drove it like that for around 850 miles, during that time, the c.e.l. actually turned off after about 100 miles, then came back on. I never had a code for No EGR Flow, which is weird because i have it blocked off! But it would not erase the o2 sensor codes because it was not just a one time occurance. If it just spike once, then threw the check engine light, then a few trip would clear it, it was a continuously lean reading telling the computer.
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The whole sample tube sizing deal is rudimentary, at best, for ensuring AFR's are dialed in. I know C&L does that with some of their stuff but it is an outdated way to try to really try to dial in the WOT AFR's while whether you are running a stocker or aftermarket injector. Nothing can replace recalibrating it all in the tune itself. The minor advantage the sample tube sizing deal does have is that an end user can somewhat get their AFR's closer before getting the full blown tune. The only problem here is that I do not trust too many end users to accomplish that process the right way without hurting their engine. Hehe. Its all case by case basis there, as many people in here know.
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are your gears whining? who installed them? I just did the install myself, it took some adjustment but mine showed a perfect pattern while on the bench..
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seriously man, mine are totally silent.. i adjusted the hell out of them, and got a perfect pattern. I also used ams oil.. maybe that oils is that good. haha..
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Not yet I'm pretty frustrated with it at this point. I trust the mechanic and he's had it apart a couple times now. It's better but I'm not happy. Going to have a talk with him tomorrow about what exactly they are doing with it. If I feel like they did all they could I'm going to have to try another set of gears.
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What brand of gears did you go with? That matters too. The cheaper gears do not have as tight of machining tolerances and thus will be noisier.
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i went with all ford racing stuff for my swap from max at five star ford. They come with a more "shiny" or polished look on the gears which is supposed to decrease noise and ease break in .. i have had absolutely NO noise whatsoever.. just a driveshaft vibration.
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