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Help - ball joint and lower control arm question

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Posted by: swdobbs

I need some information from the LVC think tank.

I am looking at purchasing a 2001 LS w/ 90k, I dropped it off for an inspection at the local lincoln dealer and they reported that the pass lower ball joint is loose and needs replacing. I took a look at it on the lift and sure enough its loose, down to one thread showing. Tightening it is a short term fix for. I asked what the chance that the lower control arm is out of tolerance and a new ball joint won't fix the problem? (it looks like its been loose for a while, shiney scuffs on the dust cover). The dealer said until they get it off and take a better look at it no way to tell, it was Friday at 5:30pm. Am I looking at new lower control arm? Not many of the LS's in the wrecking yards here in Montana. I'm pretty handy, I have access to several local shops with lifts, presses and the full compliment of tools, but this stuff is all too knew for the hot rod crowd I hang around.

Thanks guys.

Posted by: mharrison

I would say it is more than likely just what it appears to be....a loose ball joint. There was even recall or TSB on certain year models not being adequately torqued down. (I don't recall which though.)

Posted by: swdobbs

Quote:

Originally Posted by mharrison

I would say it is more than likely just what it appears to be....a loose ball joint. There was even recall or TSB on certain year models not being adequately torqued down. (I don't recall which though.)

mh,

I agree that it is a loose ball joint but now its chronic. What I am concerned about is the ball joint won't stay tight more than 20 miles. I suspect that the aluminum control arm hole now has slop and the ball joint is able to move around under load which causes the nut to back off.

Now I'm looking for a passenger side lower control arm and a weekend free to get this sorted out.

s.

Posted by: mharrison

It's possible the control arm was damaged, but I would more likely suspect that the single use nylock nut has been re-used (possibly without loc-tite).

If you're looking to buy this, I would expect them to fix it. Or did you already buy it?

Posted by: mharrison

I don't know your location, but I've found the passenger side lower control arm as cheap as $35 on here:

http://www.car-part.com

Posted by: swdobbs

Quote:

Originally Posted by mharrison

It's possible the control arm was damaged, but I would more likely suspect that the single use nylock nut has been re-used (possibly without loc-tite).

If you're looking to buy this, I would expect them to fix it. Or did you already buy it?

I don't know your location, but I've found the passenger side lower control arm as cheap as $35 on here:

http://www.car-part.com

MH

Thanks for all the info. I've inspected the lower ball joint nut attaching the lower control arm and it is not a nylock. I'd guess that is part of the problem. I don't own it yet but the credit union claims to be as low as they are willing to go, but we will see. I have a few hotrod projects and the local shop where I store my crap has a lift, a 20ton press and a full compliment of tools to wreck most anything. I catch a bit of crap for my modern daily but the rent is cheap and we so manage to get things done. I'll source replacement control arm(s) and give it a run. Anything else I should sort out while I have the front end torn down?

Posted by: mharrison

The other big front end item is the sway bar bushings. They'll eventually do one of two things, either get really loose and start a clunking sound in the front end, or get a little loose and start creaking like and old screen door.

So, you may want to just take a look at them if you're hearing any of that. I haven't done that job yet, but I understand it is a PITA. The bushings are molded onto the sway bar (on all the "new" replacement bars). Some people on here have had success with replacement polyurethane bushings, but in my experience poly's squeak pretty good when brand new.

Also, AFAIK there is only one place you can get new ball joints without the entire assembly:

Here is the information. Just give Ed a call and make sure and tell him you belong to LVC so you get free shipping. I've had no problems with mine.
Euromarque
Contact: Ed
281-656-2553

Posted by: fbird18

I have replaced both lower ball joints with the ones from euromarque. Those worked great, but I am currently dealing with nuts that dont like to stay tightened. I think I may have that issue taken care of though. Just mentioning that to give you a fair warning.

Here is what I have replaced and what it's costed so far:

$120 for a pair of ball joints from euromarque
$210 roughly for two replacement front hubs w/ abs from team ford
$80 roughly for two sway bar end links from autozone

With all that replaced, my front suspension was still clunking over every bump. I un hooked my sway bar from the end links, and, no more clunks. Time for new sway bar bushings. I got the replacement sway bar with the molded bushings from team ford. I went to install that last night. Got 3 of the 4 bolts off just fine. I could not however figure out how to do that last bolt. So I put everthing back together and will have to attempt it another day. Providing I can put the new bar and bushings in, the front end will be squeek, clunk, groan, knock free

. Hope this helps in some way.

Posted by: milehighmikey

The local NAPA store had a great assortment of Nyloc nuts, and you should also be able to order the exact one you need from any Ford dealer. When I went to get one at my local Ford dealer, it would have cost a lot (compared to what NAPA charged) and I would have had to order it, so I went right across the street and got the right one in NAPA for around $2.00 or less. It was so cheap that I bought two even though I needed just one.

As an FYI, on the original loose ball joint on 2000 model LS recall, it instructed the dealers to check the torque and then set it correctly if it was not right to start with. It also instructed that if the car had been driven with an improperly-torqued ball joint (lower was the only one in the recall) then the only remedy was to replace the knuckle assembly, which includes the ball joint and a whole load of nuts, fasteners, brake dust shield and bolts, in the recall replacement knuckle kit, for a very nice price, compared to a knuckle by itself, which comes with no fasteners at all, nor a brake dust shield.

Bottom line, the ball joint is ruined if you drive while it is loose.

Myself, I would tighten it up with a new Nyloc nut and evaluate its condition under driving stress, before I would outright replace it. The dealers and Ford don't have that luxury and had no choice but to err on the side of caution.