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oil pan???

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Posted by: MarkVIII93

Where can I get one?

Posted by: kustomizingkid

Contact Jamie, hes got all the rust free Florida parts.

Posted by: chickenviii

no new ones left in the us (unless someone bought one and threw it on a shelf) fords solution is seek aftermarket lololol hit up jamie97lsc and get a good used one

Posted by: MarkVIII93

is it possible to use ford racing oil pans?

Posted by: chickenviii

only if its for a markviii, cobra wont fit in the k member

Posted by: jamie97lsc

dont contact me lol, i sold every last one i had, i cant believe i am out, 6 months ago we had 17 oil pans, the last one on my wall got tossed in the trunk of the 97 getting hauled away tomorrow, i looked at it to see about listing it on ebay and its beat, its dented and crappy looking, so i dont want to sell it to anyone i wouldnt want to buy it myself so.... if you could have seen my shop wall with all of them hanging and now its empty.

Posted by: vr4

hrm.....

im pondering yanking that engine at the pick n pull even more now. got a good pan on it....

Posted by: Icarus

You can still get them from the dealers, call around. I bought one a month ago on installed it. It was a fun job

Posted by: jamie97lsc

how much was a new one? i also heard you could not buy them anymore.

Posted by: Icarus

$345 CDN from the Ford dealer down the road from my work. They said they had 4 in stock... well 3 now

I was going to order one from the US. I saw prices from about $210-280US (a bit higher in CDN $ right now) but by the time I got shipping, taxes, and duties tacked on I'd be close to the same price. I'm definately on the wrong side of the border! lol...

Has anyone checked with Torrie, Max etc? They all have access to locators...

Posted by: mrzeee

Here is what I know.....

Part#: F5LY 6675A ENG#: F6LE6675AB
Part Name: PAN ASY - ENGINE OIL Date Off B/O: 10/13/08 B/O Ranking: 245

Line Number Date Merchandiser Remarks
1 FILL EM-ORDS FROM: SEEK ALTERNATE SOURCE
2 CAUSAL DESCRIPTN1: COMMERCIAL ISSUE/PAST DUE
3 CAUSAL DESCRIPTN2: .
4 61908 SUPPLIER MISSING TOOLING, WORKING WITH FCSD BUYER 5NB
5 61908 SUPPLIER PROMISES START TO SHIP 27PCS WEEK OF 09/15 5NB

There are 14 on B/O and the pricing is...for today but not guarinteed in OCT is $287.73 and LVC 207.17 who knows this may end up in a "HID" situation of 2 years ago.
Max

Posted by: MarkVIII93

These cars.... i swear....

Posted by: The Rev

temp fix that has been holding up well over a year for me (in RI, where winters aren't fun) JB-Weld.

Posted by: chickenviii

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icarus

Has anyone checked with Torrie, Max etc? They all have access to locators...

well first i checked at my job (ford) and they said im S.O.L. then i called max and he said i was "screwed, glued, and tattooed" so i went and got a good used one from a local kid for $50 (i think) got lucky, cleaned off the little surface rust it had, coated the hell out of it with rust inhibitor and then midwestbird rattle canned it (hes the master) charcoal metallic gray lol

Posted by: mmtphoto

i have seen references to the oil pans on these before, do they rust out and leak? when I go my 96, it had rust on the bottom of the pan and I sanded it lightly and sprayed it with engine paint-so far, so good, i don't have any leaks, but is this a common problem in rust states?

Posted by: Icarus

I don't know if it's real common, but it seems to happen that they rust out. The underside of my car is quite clean, but its never been winter driven other than the very first year it existed. They seem to leak around the welds on the kickout sump first, and get worse from there. The '95 I had before seemed to be rusting out there too badly, but it was a winter driven car...

Posted by: unity

Its common enough. When I did my engine swap my friend got my oil pan to paint for me. He noticed that is was about to break through so he welded it up really good and painted it. Seems to hold fine.

I thought these were suppose to be multi-layer pans. Metal/plastic/metal when made. Main purpose was to cut back on engine noise. Someone said they only used these on the 93s and some 94s.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

I wish they had used an alloy pan! (only cars i have owned that had rusty steel pans were GMs and Fords)

Posted by: chickenviii

yes they usually rust out on the side can welds. there is a little support tab that makes the perfect little shelf for crap to accumulate causing it to rust

Posted by: JMiles_T

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmtphoto

i have seen references to the oil pans on these before, do they rust out and leak? when I go my 96, it had rust on the bottom of the pan and I sanded it lightly and sprayed it with engine paint-so far, so good, i don't have any leaks, but is this a common problem in rust states?

Yes.

I removed my oil pan, sanded every bit of rust off, and spray painted it with 3 coats, and baked the paint in. Dupli-color brand black engine enamel is what I used.

It lasted about a year before it started peeling away.

It's supposed to be good up to 500 degrees, but if it wasn't strong enough to stay on an oil pan, I don't see how that stuff can last on top of an engine, where the heat and other conditions are much more harsh.

Posted by: jamie97lsc

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMiles_T

its all about the preperation. you are supposed to use the primer made fot the high heat paint, they also make 500 degree primer, you cant expect paint to stick to metal without the right stuff under the paint, and on engine parts you cant use regular primer. your paint didnt last because you didnt prep it right, paint doesnt peel off if all the right steps are taken before the paint is applied!

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

Speaking of prep with that high temp paint, i got a slightly daft Question for you, Jamie. (its kinda relevant)

When you apply that high temp gray primer, are you supposed to apply the top color coats before the 1 hr window is up, or do you have to wait 7 days for the primer to cure first?

I watched a Duplicolor 'how to' vid on their site for the high temp paint - on there, they (rightly or wrongly) show it being used without primer, but they say you can use the primer if the surface to be painted is bare metal.

Got me very confused! Lol.

Posted by: jamie97lsc

i just always wait till its dry to the touch them apply the color! i've never had a problem yet.

Posted by: Glorywagon

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4

hrm.....

im pondering yanking that engine at the pick n pull even more now. got a good pan on it....

If its like pick and pull around here they knock a hole in the pan to remove oil. Bought a tran. at it and had to use the trans. pan off mine. they also knock hole in gas tank.

Posted by: JMiles_T

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamie97lsc

its all about the preperation...

I'll have to go after it again before the rust gets bad. I'll try the primer next time.

Posted by: Ray's family

if you don't find one, let me know because ray had one in the shed in the back yard & there's one on the engine in my garage. If so, you can have it free, just pay postage. let me know.

Posted by: Dawkins

"I removed my oil pan, sanded every bit of rust off, and spray painted it with 3 coats, and baked the paint in. Dupli-color brand black engine enamel is what I used.

It lasted about a year before it started peeling away.

It's supposed to be good up to 500 degrees, but if it wasn't strong enough to stay on an oil pan, I don't see how that stuff can last on top of an engine, where the heat and other conditions are much more harsh"

Accually dupli-colour makes a 1200 F or 649 C paint used better for headers and what not...would last longer and better heat range is about $10 a can...