Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums

(This is the forums archive - If you want to get back to the main site simply click the banner above and you will be taken to our homepage.)

Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums is the Ultimate Online Resource for Owners and Enthusiasts of American Luxury Cars. Feel free to browse through our archive - but make sure you make it back to our main site - Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums

Cadillac XLR : Cadillac CTS : Cadillac : 2005 Cadillac STS : Cadillac Forums : 2000 Lincoln LS : Lincoln Mark VIII : Lincoln Mark VII : Car Wax
Lincoln Town Car : Lincoln Air Suspension : Lincoln Continental : Lemon Law : Do It Yourself Car Repair : Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums : Mesothelioma

Back to the Archive Main Page

Pages: 1

2nd gear gone?

(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

ok so when im in d give and driving normally it holds first gear very long then will shift into 3rd. if i manaully put it into 2 and drive it will drive but if you give it more than light throttle itll just spin through the rpms and go no where. Any ideas? 1 3 and OD work fine? I havn't done the updated acc. piston or jmod any of that so... not sure what it could be. sometimes 2nd comes back but i think now its gone for good?

Posted by: Staffamerica74

2nd is gone, expect 3rd and 4th to follow if you beat on it in this condition.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

any ideas on what happend?

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

ok it down shifts into 2nd ok when driving... and it will engage... but it feels like its going into neutral in higher rpms in 2nd or if i give it heavy throttle.... if im coasting its ok... any ideas?

Posted by: Abbens

when was the last time you changed/checked the fluid?

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

Dirty fluid would do this? I get it checked everytime I change my oil... i don't think its been changed in the last 20k... but last time i checked it, it was bright red, looked clean.

i was hoping it would be the MLPS but it only does it in 2nd gear... is this possible? 2nd gear is the only problem.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

i was reading the faq's on the baumann website and it says if the snap ring for the 1-2 accumulator is not put back it would result in 2nd gear not working. im wondering if my snap ring broke because of the broken spring inside of the 1/2 acc which might have broke the snap ring?

Posted by: bryantaylor

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

i was reading the faq's on the baumann website and it says if the snap ring for the 1-2 accumulator is not put back it would result in 2nd gear not working. im wondering if my snap ring broke because of the broken spring inside of the 1/2 acc which might have broke the snap ring?

no. do a complete fluid and filter change and report back

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

so this is a symptom of fluid then? i thought fluid would effect all the gears not just 2nd.

Posted by: bryantaylor

i would do a fluid and filter change first for a couple of reasons. its the cheapest and easiest, and it probally needs it anyway. if that doesnt fix it, i would start looking for another trans, or a decent shop to rebuild yours.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

my fluid looks clean and its level is perfect.... i think it has something to do with the 1/2 accumulator spring/piston messing up - because its not attempting to shift into 1-2 like it would normally.... it tries to shift wayyyy later than normal. its as if its not shifting into 1-2 but going from 1-3. because its not wanting to engage 1-2

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

well if i have to replace the trans, at this point im not sure what is going on but if it comes down to it i guess the 5.4 liter truck 98' and up is the one to go with right?

also i read that if it was my 1 way clutch i wouldn't have 3rd or 4th right? wtf causes 2nd to just dissapear and or skip!

im guessing its not the mlps if the only gear affected is 2nd.

Posted by: Staffamerica74

I am telling ya that 2nd gear is gone thats the exact same way mine acted when it broke. Then one day i was pissed and did a burnout threw first then it shifted to 3rd and bye bye 3rd and 4th too... just start looking for a new trans either go with one from geno or darrin.

Posted by: driller

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

wtf causes 2nd to just dissapear and or skip!

WOT 4-2 downshifts.

Sounds like a pressure loss issue to me. Not enough pressure to shift and not enough to hold once it does shift.

You should pull the pan and inspect the fluid, filter, magnet and 1-2 accumulator to eliminate guessing. Past that, you're looking for a tranny shop.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html#

Ford OD transmissions 101 > chapter 4 (common problems)

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

ok ive been doing some reading... so its probably either i burned out my 1-way clutch or my 1-2 accumulator is shot.

Will either of these while manually put in 2nd not allow it to hold at wot?

the symptoms of both sound like mine but i have no way to rule either of them out based on the description for both.

I've had the engine hit the rev limiter

Posted by: Moes8

i vote for the 1 way clutch, you said it went after a full throttle downshift blast? thats when they let go,they actually self destruct

rebuild or swap for newer,if thats the case,

make sure you get a mechanical diode one way if you rebuild/swap,they are considered to be indestructible,no matter what the Hp.
and yes, you lose almost all of 2nd but can still have 3-4 ,thats how mine went

i drove it easy for awhile without 2nd,until i could get it fixed

Posted by: ONEBADMK8

It's done Bud. Hit me up for the bullet proof unit if youe interested.

Posted by: unity

If you were driving with your 1-2 accumulator shot and ignored it long enough AND also played hard with it, the trans is gone. It not a good thing to drive with it damaged much less hammering on it.

You could gamble with a MLPS and fluid change, its cheaper than a trans and a lot less work. Cross your fingers and hope that works, but if the trans is toast then thats about $100 out the window.

Posted by: chickenviii

how about at least checking the snap ring, someone else on here did a jmod recently and their snap ring popped out a little, he put it back in and it was fixed, since you just did a jmod and the 1-2 accumulator i would check that

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by driller

WOT 4-2 downshifts.

+Manual Shifting UP and Down
+Nitrous

I made thousands of passes with my original stock 1st gen trans, but..
I did NOT ignore the 1-2 accumulator and I absolutely did not manual upshift or down shift.

He just needs to face the music and get himself a 98+ trans and be done with it.

Any other expense with this trans is just a waste of time, money and mercron V.

Posted by: XLRVIII

Fluid and Filter change-100
1-2 accumulator parts+deep pan-100+ish
MLPS - 20-30ish

I only paid 275.00 for my 30K mile 98LSC trans on Car-parts.com
got about 500 passes and 30K on it before the car was stolen.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

who said i was shifting from 4-2 manually

if anything i would manually shift into 2nd while in drive once it engages 2nd just to hold it there... to keep it in 2nd longer because it always wanted to lug around in 3rd.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

well, ill let you guys know what it is when i get it apart. I'm doing my research right now and im learning a lot about it.

The replies have been on the money though as i guess the gen I trans don't hold up as well.

a 98 trans could be a good buy... also Geno is a very good option... i also have been reading that the 5.4 truck 4r70w is the one to go with based on a link above... but what gearset does it have compared to the mark?

for the 98 and up trans you have to rewire it right? Now's my chance to do all the stuff i wanted to do to my trans and while i have it out other stuff as well.

3500 stall jmod/shift kit what have you beefed up new parts.

is there anyway besides pulling the pan to tell if its my 1 way clutch or accumulator?

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moes8

i vote for the 1 way clutch, you said it went after a full throttle downshift blast? thats when they let go,they actually self destruct

rebuild or swap for newer,if thats the case,

make sure you get a mechanical diode one way if you rebuild/swap,they are considered to be indestructible,no matter what the Hp.
and yes, you lose almost all of 2nd but can still have 3-4 ,thats how mine went

i drove it easy for awhile without 2nd,until i could get it fixed

agreed, im being very easy on it... however it didnt go doing a downshift "blast" it did it at wot i believe 1-2 shift then 2 starting hitting the rev limiter going no where, and i slowed down and it got into third. and sometimes it doesnt do it and it will hold..

then i went to the track, went down the track fine wot al the way through 3rd no problems. Went for a 2nd pass... i hit the spray and it did it again 1-2 but while in two on the juice it let go of 2nd and banged off the rev limter, (i disengaged the juice as soon as it slipped)

sometimes it will hold it in 2nd but usally not at full throttle so there is a chance that it is the line pressure/snap ring but im not going to hold my breath. itll be nice to have a trans i dont have to worry about. It was feeling lose before hand like always wanted to be in 3rd or 4th at low speeds feeling like a turd.

Posted by: XLRVIII

putting a 98+ trans does require repinning of the trans harness.

when my 1 way clutch died it did it on a WOT 1-2 shift in drive.

the forced 4-2 shift doesnt have to be "manual shifted" to be FATAL.

when your cruising above 40MPH in 4th and you go WOT..that is a WOT 4-2 shift and those will absolutely destroy the first gen non mechanical diode (aka one way clutch)

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

yea but i always cruise around with my od 0ff

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

how about trans out of a post 98 5.4 truck

Posted by: shelbyisis

check it out, your 1-2 acc piston f%^&*d up and burned the S%^t of of the clutches in your 2gear drum. what you should do is find a tranny shop or a guy who CAN bench build trannys and will allow you to make decisions on how it will be reassembled. then go to tocca and print the j-mod stuff buy a quality rebiuld kit (all over the internet from various manufactuers) and a new touqre converter. i did the 400-500 one in my 4.6 single cam marquies and it is HARSH with no bottom spring in my 1-2 and my 2-3 cap fell off on the first shift so then we were like what the F%^k but we just dident have the tabs bent enough. Build this tranny stuff it with all the extra clutches you can get a mechanical drum and call it a day.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

sounds good...

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

just to update, i checked my fluid while the car was hot and it very thin but it manages to get to the hot side of the trans dipstick.

I was driving around and i managed to get 2nd gear back??? i was like wtf! sweet! but then i lost it again! then i lost 3 and 4 just now! so devil child pat your self on the back!

i only have first! i was hoping when i got 2nd back that it could possibly a fluid issue.

side note- how does this tranny act if its the fluid is dirty - low? I'm not leaking fluid and from what i can see i know it has nothing to do with the fluid im just curious?

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by Staffamerica74

2nd is gone, expect 3rd and 4th to follow if you DRIVE (edited by XLRVIII) it in this condition.

your prophecy was revealed on page 1.

your tranny is done, no reason to keep driving it, it's not going to "fix itself".

might as well "face the music" before it leaves you completely stranded someplace and you have to pay to tow it home.

Posted by: The Rev

Dont fight the advice Abe. I thank the lincoln gods my tranny is good....for now.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

for sure! im not driving it anymore! I had a little bit of juice left in the tank i thought ide blow 3-4 for the hell of it!
There are many trans options out there... And from the page on Tocca (jerrys mod) they really emphasize using a 5.4 truck 4r70w. But I don't think ive read of anyone using that on here? I could be wrong though, the 98 seems to be the one to go with if im going to go with a salvage unit.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

Bear in mind, a company like Ford makes constant revisions to things like transmissions - if i were you id look to get the most recent, lowest mileage tranny possible that will work with our cars. (something like an 02 Mustang GT tranny might be the ticket)

Of course, if you are feeling flush, you could spring for one of Lonnie's built transmissions.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

i would if i had the money - i got about 900 bucks to make something happen.

but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? Something like it has a 8 gear speedo gear? and since i have obdI instead of obdII does that create more problems?

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

No idea - i'll let guys who have done it chime in. It has been done though - read about it many times on a few forums. (here also - do a search)

Posted by: Staffamerica74

doesnt make a difference that it is a 2v it still has the same bellhousing bolt pattern. just repin and replace whatever the article on tccoa says. I cant think of them off the top of my head.

Posted by: XLRVIII

If you want the least amount of problems during the install...
You should get a 1998 Mark 8 transmission.

There are other options, mustang trans but you have to change the shifter assembly {A PITA)
The truck trans may be the strongest of the bunch, but unless you are very familiar with all the differences, this isn't going to be a "plug and play" type of deal.

Save yourself ALOT of trouble, money and time and get a 98 Mark 8 trans.

Then you only have to repin the harness and use the old TCC solenoid from your old transmission and your good to go.
The plug for the TCC soleniod will have to be modified, once you "see" it.. it'll all make sense.. you only have to trim a small portion of the connector away and it'll plug right in.

Hope this helps.

Posted by: XLRVIII

[quote=AbrahamLincoln;398555]but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? /QUOTE]

yes there is alot more to do to the mustang trans..

the "rooster comb" (the thing the shift moves inside the trans) is backwards compared to the mark 8..
you have to swap the rooster comb around to make it work,
...and of course repin the trans harness and swap the TCC solenoid.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

[quote=XLRVIII;398673]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? /QUOTE]

yes there is alot more to do to the mustang trans..

the "rooster comb" (the thing the shift moves inside the trans) is backwards compared to the mark 8..
you have to swap the rooster comb around to make it work,
...and of course repin the trans harness and swap the TCC solenoid.

Is this rooster comb part inside the trans or outside?

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

well i'll get to my research some more... im hoping the guys from near me will help me out on a weekend for some cash. That might be the difference between the hassle of the 02 mustang gt or doing the 98 mark by myself?

Posted by: XLRVIII

The swap has been covered many times in many threads... research is your friend.
The rooster comb as it's called is the little peice that gives your shifter the "notches" when you put it in each gear..
That part on the mustangs is backwards compared to the mark 8.

Swapping it around isn't terribly hard, but for a person that needs instruction to "add transmission fluid" it's probably above your technical skills.

Do yourself a favor.. forget the truck trans, and forget the mustang trans.
There is too much to do for someone with little expereience to mess with, and too many places for "the unexpected" {like your evap lines, or the fuel pump sender} to give you problems.

I'm not bashing you here, so please dont get all "miffy".. I am being HONEST with you, and you should be honest with yourself in regards to your technical skill level.

a 98 mark 8 transmission is going to be AS CLOSE as you are going to get with an upgraded transmission WITHOUT having numerous places for a mistake to "end your day".

ALSO..
I know you aren't going to believe this, and I"m only gonna say it ONCE.

Pulling the transmission ALONE takes about 4 times as long as it takes to "drop the Kmember" and pull the motor and trans at the same time.
I did it both ways...
When we dropped the Kmember, we were IN and OUT in less than 4 hours.
Trying to wrestle the trans out alone {when my first gen trans failed) took 8 hours on the first day and 4 hours on the second day.

you will be doing yourself a favor by dropping the entire assembly out the botttom.
Just the "top two tranmssion bolts" alone make this technique well worth the trouble.

I will NEVER AGAIN, try to pull the transmission out by itself... there is just "too much work" in cramped spaces to make it work.

If you ever listened to ANY of my advice.. you should listen now.

The ears on the transmission will hang up on the exhaust and you wont find this out until you try to "lower the trans" out of the car. THEN your trans will be STUCK in the car.. but not bolted to ANYTHING.. a very dangerous scenario.

knowing your not gonna do it this way, means you will need to dedicate an ENTIRE WEEKEND for this job.

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

i would if i had the money - i got about 900 bucks to make something happen.

but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? Something like it has a 8 gear speedo gear? and since i have obdI instead of obdII does that create more problems?

You're going to pay BUTTLOADS more for a mustang GT trans than you will a 98 Mark 8 trans, and they are literally the SAME TRANSMISSION for the most part.. but when you say "mustang GT" the price goes UP about 500.00.

and yes the differences in how the speedometer work will "end your day".
The rear of the trans needs to be dissasembled and then you need to put the correct speedometer DRIVER gear on the output shaft.

..again, this is well above your skill level and it WILL give you endless problems if you mess something up.

AGAIN, ONLY BEING HONEST and actually TRYING TO HELP you not make a BIG MISTAKE.. and it'll be a costly mistake as well.

listen to the words falling out of my mouth.. I'm danged sure not typing all this to excersize my carpal tunnel syndrome.

GET A 98 MARK 8 TRANS..

Posted by: XLRVIII

Iceberg Right Ahead Captain!

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

um... the mustang jobs i found are around i may be lucky. They are the same prices as the mark trans' ive found so i have to disagree with you on that.

Also yea its 8 tooth instead of 7 tooth. Just pop it in with 8 tooth in there! Sure, speedometers a bit off but that can be corrected with a speedcal or the applicable speedometer corrector gear. So i dont see that ending my day?

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

Quote:

Originally Posted by XLRVIII

The swap has been covered many times in many threads... research is your friend.
The rooster comb as it's called is the little peice that gives your shifter the "notches" when you put it in each gear..
That part on the mustangs is backwards compared to the mark 8.

Swapping it around isn't terribly hard, but for a person that needs instruction to "add transmission fluid" it's probably above your technical skills.

Do yourself a favor.. forget the truck trans, and forget the mustang trans.
There is too much to do for someone with little expereience to mess with, and too many places for "the unexpected" {like your evap lines, or the fuel pump sender} to give you problems.

I'm not bashing you here, so please dont get all "miffy".. I am being HONEST with you, and you should be honest with yourself in regards to your technical skill level.

a 98 mark 8 transmission is going to be AS CLOSE as you are going to get with an upgraded transmission WITHOUT having numerous places for a mistake to "end your day".

ALSO..
I know you aren't going to believe this, and I"m only gonna say it ONCE.

Pulling the transmission ALONE takes about 4 times as long as it takes to "drop the Kmember" and pull the motor and trans at the same time.
I did it both ways...
When we dropped the Kmember, we were IN and OUT in less than 4 hours.
Trying to wrestle the trans out alone {when my first gen trans failed) took 8 hours on the first day and 4 hours on the second day.

you will be doing yourself a favor by dropping the entire assembly out the botttom.
Just the "top two tranmssion bolts" alone make this technique well worth the trouble.

I will NEVER AGAIN, try to pull the transmission out by itself... there is just "too much work" in cramped spaces to make it work.

If you ever listened to ANY of my advice.. you should listen now.

The ears on the transmission will hang up on the exhaust and you wont find this out until you try to "lower the trans" out of the car. THEN your trans will be STUCK in the car.. but not bolted to ANYTHING.. a very dangerous scenario.

knowing your not gonna do it this way, means you will need to dedicate an ENTIRE WEEKEND for this job.

Most people drop there k-member to install there trans? why didnt you just drop the exhaust?

Posted by: XLRVIII

Give it a shot.. your way and let us know how it works out for you.

you have the speedometer gear differences wrong, it's not the speedoment gear on the cable that needs to be changed.. it's the actual GEAR ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT that needs to be changed.

Again, i'm telling you.. your "IN OVER YOUR HEAD".

Feel free to jump right in there, armed with bad information and little knowledge of what you are doing.

And have fun pulling off the exhaust manifolds in order to get the trans out.
I ASSURE you it is about 100 times EASIER to pull the engine AND trans out of the car.. than it is to "remove" the drivers side exhaust manifold.

But.. again.. "YOU DA MAN"..make sure you make more posts with the trials and tribulations of your "first tranny install"
.. coming right on the heels of your "first quart of tranny fluid" install.

I will say this.. your confidence level is to be commended.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

Get some members in the area to help - gonna be hard trying to do it alone. Offer them some cash... might make things go easier.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

well, ive already done that... and its funny the two members closest to me who ive pm'ed both have late model mustang transmissions in there mark 8's. And when I asked them what stuff needs to be done,

its My tcc selenoid from my trans, my MLPS, repinning the trans? and they said the speedometer will be off because of it being 8 tooth get a speedcal?

Here are the candidate trans' i have found with prices.

99 - mustang 10k - $450 bucks half hour away.
98 Mark trans 72K- $ 200 bucks - 3 and a half hours away
2002 Mustang 57K - $350 - hour away
2001 Mustang 42K- $350 - hour away

I'm not going to seriously set up something with another member until i have the transmission out and the candidate swap transmission purchased.

I'm eager to make the right decision - XLR's telling me to just stick with a 98, others who have the later model mustang transmissions happend to live within a half an hours driving distance of me so if i ran into problems someones pockets would def get bigger, but they both have been eager to help the way to facilitate the newer mustang trans.

In my reading i read that you dont need to switch the internal shaft you just get an orange speedo corrector gear - whats so bad about 8 teeth spinning the gear instead of 7 besides the speedo being off? speed cal?

Posted by: unity

Ok, I would love to help but that BIG ass pic in your signature makes it a pain to read threads on my laptop. lol

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

lol ill take it off it was for a member who wanted to see a two tone!

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

the guys ive talked to said nothing about a rooster comb? or about changing the shifter? Can anyone confirm this?

I was just told its no different from putting the 98 in with the only exception just being that the speedo will be off by a portion because of the 8 tooth so you are correct it would have to be swapped but i could give two shaznits about the speedo being off - especially when i can get it pretty close with the different speedo corrector gears out there. Which is something i can live with?

Posted by: Staffamerica74

rooster comb needs to be swapped not too bad to do tho... I say get the mark trans just for simplicity and it is cheaper.

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by Staffamerica74

rooster comb needs to be swapped not too bad to do tho... I say get the mark trans just for simplicity and it is cheaper.

you are correct.

Actually none of the things that need to be done are a big deal nor hard to accomplish.. but. they are very easy to SCREW UP.

when you swap the rooster comb, dont you have to do something with the OD band? and.. if you dont get it right, you just converted your 4R70W into a 3R70W? (lose 4th gear?)

I chose the path that gave me the less chances to screw up... some may choose to follow a more difficult path.. call me lazy I guess.

HAHA

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

[quote=AbrahamLincoln;399113]

99 - mustang 10k - $450 bucks half hour away.
98 Mark trans 72K- $ 200 bucks - 3 and a half hours away
2002 Mustang 57K - $350 - hour away
2001 Mustang 42K- $350 - hour away

QUOTE]

well there not that much cheaper according to my zip code... look at these prices...

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

98 Mark trans 72K- $ 200 bucks - 3 and a half hours away

there I fixed it for you.

DING DING DING we have a winner and the price is RIGHT too!

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

yea, sheez but its 3 and a half hours away... ill probably go with the 98 mark trans even though i want to go with the mustang gt just to spite you! haha.!

I forget who i talked to but they said they didnt mess with the shifter or the rooster comb but said the shifter was a bit out of place but still worked. You have a point though less head ache the better but there has been some very good success storys with the 2001-2002 mustang gt guys!

I found a 98 mark trans about an hour away from about 350 as well so ill take it from there. Driving three and a half hours is pretty far.

Posted by: XLRVIII

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbrahamLincoln

i want to go with the mustang gt just to spite you! haha.!
.

I know, and I dont blame you.
you are a very determined individual and that isn't a bad thing.

NOW, if you are going to pull the trans out by itself, just to spite me you are really REALLY doing alot of extra work and making it harder on yourself...just to spite me.

IF you are hell bent on doing it that way.. HEED this advice.
when you get the new trans.. stand over it with one leg on each side and look down at the transmission case.
your gonna see 4 holes facing up.. on little brackets that extend out to the sides of the trans.
These were used by the machines on the assembly line to "grab" the transmission.
you need to remove with a sawzall the front one on the drivers side.
THAT is the booger that gets hung up under the car.

IF you take that thing off the new trans it will go in ALOT easier.

THEN.. use the sawzall and saw the same one of the transmission that is in your car, THEN the danged thing wont get stuck up there when you get the bolts out.

IF you listen to ANYTHING i ever said.. listen to this.

Posted by: XLRVIII

dont know if it was mentioned or not...

but you are going to want to pull the pan on your old trans and remove the TCC solenoid, and put it in the new trans.
the solenoid looks like a miniature nitrous soleniod and it does much the same thing.

the first gens were analog and the second gens were digital pulse modulated or some crap like that.

Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

gotcha so just to summarize this all

98 Mark to Gen I And say 99+ mustang GT trans to gen I BOTH apply below

-sawzaw driverside assembly line brackets for ease of install
-use original Torque Converter Selenoid to put in late model trans. It will have to be modified slightly using a dremel in order to fit the gen I into the gen II or Mustang
-Use original MLPS.
-Repin the factory harness to attatch to late model trans using Tccoa.com diagram.

IF using a Mustang Trans repeat steps above but heed this.
- 99+2000 mustang gt trans can have 6 or 8 bolt - marks are 6 bolt. If one gets an 8 bolt trans you would have to reuse the marks flexplate and torque converter to the newer trans so be able to mount it up.

-01,02 trans - Are all 6 bolt from the factory so you can bolt it right up

- Mustang Gt Trans post (im guessing 98?) 99+ have 8 spline output shaft gears (where the plastic speedo gears mesh) so the speedometer will be off -
It is fixable if you have stock rear gear ratio's, by using an orange speedo gear. (mark's have 7 they have 8 spline) OR YOUR SPEEDO WILL BE OFF (pertaining to Gen I's)
If you have higher R and P - The only thing you can do is open the trans and swap speed output shafts OR use a speed cal, im not sure if anyone has done this feel free to comment if it works or not.

XLRVIII - Also pointed out but I have yet to confrim that the shifter needs to be adjusted??? And also the Rooster Comb needs to be reversed or turned around? I'm sure hell comment on this.

Ive learned from others who've done the swap that they have had no trouble with these areas but its out there for discussion... there is some instance where this would be the case but it still goes in fine but the shifters arn't precisely matched to the diagram inside the car but it still has the same layout?

bottom line - mustang tranny is about the same difficulty to install as the 98 mark but some things will be funky with the mustang but the mustang will work. Funky being getting the right speedometer reading - as far as the Speedcal goes that could be the deciding factor for me if someone chimes in if it doesnt work. But also im going to call a local trans shop and see how much he would charge to swap the shafts if its worth the money that could always be a deciding factor for me.

2003+ i have been told don't work due there being no output for the speedo cable but I have also read on here that that didnt start till post 04???? If someones ever handled a 03 mach1 or maruader trans PLEASE chime in, that would be a sweet trans to have in the mark.

There are members with 98 mark trannies swapped into gen I's and a select few of members ive come across with 99-02 mustang gt's trans. So it CAN be done. So hopefully if someone comes across this will clarify a lot of stuff that i have searched through and discussed with others as a reference.

I'm not sure if the sn-95 automatic v8's have a 7 or 8 spline but if they have a 7 spline that could possibly be a trans to swap in - as im assuming its as easy of a swap as the 98 mark trans?

The reason im hip on the mustangs is there are far more mustang parts in the salvage yards with less miles because of how much more common the mustang is to the mark. More common means cheaper more abundant.

Posted by: newguy

my trans works,except I have no od and reverse and my car goes forward in all gears,my fliud is dirty if I change it is there a chance my trans will work right??and is there a separate thing to check for od