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Affordable Cold Air Chamber

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Posted by: mespock

For everyone looking to purchase a cold air box but can't find one or afford one. Here is a simply idea to solve the problem.

First I looked at cold air systems for Mustangs and noticed that most only have a small shield that shrouds the cone filter. So if this is suppose to supply the air intake with colder air then I figured all you need is a block or air dam to block most of the engine heat.

So I took a pieces of cardboard and I placed them in position to fill the area between the engine and the area that houses the air filter.

Then I taped the pieces together and used bondo to make the dam solid. Went to my local parts store and purchased a can of DK automotive paint (same color as my car).

Used a piece of a door gasket to help make a better seal at the top of the dam with the hood.

No I know there will still be slight leaks of engine air but it should be many times better than no shield, and it cost me less than $20.

I know there are many on here who can do a better job, so go ahead and improve this idea.

Oh and I made a template of the shield. So it is available for anyone who would like to try. Best is I will not charge you for the template.

Now my question is... I had removed the air silencer from the front of the car. If I trim off the extra lung on the damn silencer, would this allow for colder air to be better forced up? My thought is ford did design the intake to pull in air or did they do a $hitty job that makes it worthless?

Posted by: Roadboss

In my opinion what you did was tops, I want to do the same. Leaving that big hole open allows for alot of air open to come in. You cannot believe how much air gets under my cobra hood, which is good for extra cooling of the engine compartment.

Posted by: mespock

I heard that just having the cowled hood help send in cooler air and works for better air circulation. Besides giving more space for a Super Charger.

So a cowled hoop would propose a purpose even without a Super Charger.

Thanks for the compliment on the Cold Air Chamber. I'm planning on doing it again as I did have a few flaws that can not be seen in the pics but I have been having a hard time seeing the flaws as it sits in the car.

Posted by: Roadboss

I am cautious to say yes most definetly. I also have a same car without the Cobra hood, and it appears to store more heat in the engine compartment. I guess that to be more specific I should get a thermostat and mount it some where to see the differences. My comments are based on what Air I feel coming out of the back of the Cobra Hood.

Posted by: Speed Demon

Looks good.

I'll work on the underside scoop Sunday. As far as the cowl-cooling goes, when I was part of the Impala SS club, guys were removing the weather stripping at the top of the hood nearest the windshield for a low buck cowl-cooling effect. I just thought of that know so I'm not sure if the Marks have enough area open to make this effective( only an inch or so is needed ). Always a good idea to replace it come winter time.

Posted by: Roadboss

I think that idea certainly has merits.

Posted by: The Rev

I'd like a copy of those layouts mespock, I was thinking of drawing something up myself but if you've done it if saves me some time!

Posted by: mespock

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rev

I'd like a copy of those layouts mespock, I was thinking of drawing something up myself but if you've done it if saves me some time!

That's exactly my idea. Send me a PM with your address and I'll send one to you early next week.

Posted by: mespock

If anybody has ideas to improve on the above attempt to make an easy (important something that anyone can do), and inexpensive (what we all are looking for) cold air chamber for the Mark VIII post it here.

Already suggested is to use a piece of aluminum that you can get at most hardware stores then line the sharp edges with pipe insulation or a hose.

I made the one above with things I already had in my garage.

I have found that my original cold air system pictured below seemed to lack something. My thoughts were there was too much distance between the filter and the MAF. Also not sure if this is true or not but that my system may cause more turbulance in the air coming in.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

I have a suggestion with reference to forcing air up into the fender hole. Make an angled deflector out of aluminum and place it just behind the hole. Theoretically, should help force air up in the same manner as the stock air deflector under the front bumper, which forces air up into the radiator.

Be very simple to do. I'd make one now if it wasn't so stormy outside. Still, food for thought for those guys who wish to keep their filters up inside.

Posted by: mespock

I've taken the original air resonator that was located below the hole and I've taken off the intake tube, I also trimmed the large lung that was on the resonator. I then formed an angled lip to extend the original curved bend that was designed by ford to direct air up the hole.

I took off the long tube as it only had a 2" hole compared to the 4" that goes up the tube. Don't have it quite finished yet so no pics. Also wife has the camera in her purse.

Posted by: 93' Blue on blue

I see what you are saying. With hindsight, i may not have thrown my old silencer in the trash! Lol. Still, with that out the way the intake level is raised slightly, i suppose...

Isn't DIY fun? Lol.

Posted by: XLRVIII

I made an almost identical heat shield.
used a "shoe box" for my templates, once they were cut to fit they were fiberglasses and painted black.

Worked like a champ..air box temperatures were indentical to ambient outside temps when moving down the road.

Posted by: mespock

Pic of the template I have.

Measurements if the is helps - also I'm not a schematic or blue print maker. Plus I no lo

Top - 14 1/2" Across long top section right side to drop
Drop down - 2"
remaning top is - 1 7/8"

Front or Right Side of pic - 6"

Bottom Rigth Side to /\ cut out - 11"

/\ is 1 3/4 on left side 3" on right side base is 2 1/2"

/\ to left side 6 3/4"

Left side 9 1/2"

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