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Lincoln LS Detail

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Posted by: Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I don't have a pressure washer... yet. That's hopefully next on my list. but I don't want to spend 500 bucks on one.

I dont blame you... talk to Kyle, he got one for $99 and I could get you everything you need to be foaming in no time

Posted by: pektel

Wow... 300 total ain't bad at all! I was thinking it would be at least twice that all said and done.

Posted by: Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Wow... 300 total ain't bad at all! I was thinking it would be at least twice that all said and done.

If you want to save on some shipping I would suggest going down to your local Big Lots (if you have one) and pick up a Karcher for $99...

Some people say they dont last but I have had two with no problems

My first I used for a year and gave it away so I could upgrade to a little more power.. my current PW has been running strong for 2 years

Posted by: pektel

I don't have a big lots where I'm at. My best bet is just a hardware store, or online somewhere. I'll hit you up when I pick one up.

Posted by: KD00LS

I got the Karcher 2.26M, 1500 psi and 1.3 gpm. Just got the foam cannon today, didn't have time to take pictures. Foam guns are great, the shadybreal foam cannon is phenomenal. Came to 106 with tax for the Karcher at Lowe's, not a bad deal on the PW. I am in awe of all this equipment. I sat outside and foamed my car for like a half hour. At one of the thicker settings, you can't tell what color the car is. To say I was impressed would be a complete and utter understatement. A+ on the recommendation Jason, thanks again.

Posted by: KD00LS

Pictures will come tomorrow with a little writeup/review.

Posted by: Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

To say I was impressed would be a complete and utter understatement. A+ on the recommendation Jason, thanks again.

I had zero doubt you would be happy!!

Glad to hear I was not wrong!

Posted by: KD00LS

So here's my new pride and joy. Let me know if you guys want pictures of the setup as well. The pictures taken were of a coworker's car. The soap had dwelled on the car for about a minute overall on the side of the car, with a couple random squirts here and there. Immediately after initial application, you can barely tell what color the car is, if at all. Anyways, here's a couple pictures.

Posted by: pektel

Hey Kyle, how long do you think one should wait to apply Natty's Red over PB EX-P?

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Hey Kyle, how long do you think one should wait to apply Natty's Red over PB EX-P?

I think a sealant requires around like a half hour to an hour for a carnuaba wax to be applied on top of it. It also depends on the sealant. I know CG Jetseal is really fast curing time.

Posted by: pektel

Cool. So I should be set to do it at 5 tonight since I sealed last night. Just wanted to make sure it didn't need like 48 hours or something.

Posted by: KD00LS

Sounds good. Did you polish up your car and all that?

Posted by: pektel

Nah. Haven't had a full day and a half to remove all protection. I'm actually doing my mom's Grand Prix. That is sheer hell. I don't have stuff strong enough to remove more than half the imperfections. She bought it brand new in 02, and has never had a detail. The only washes were through an auto wash from whatever gas station she was near, and her boyfriend washed it quite a few times with (eek) Dawn. And didn't apply any paint protection afterwards. There was SO much oxidation, and really put the clay bar to the test.

Posted by: KD00LS

Sounds like fun. At least you'll get some practice in before you start to work on your car.

Posted by: pektel

The SSR3 works very well in combination with the 106FF, though. So far, I've only polished her hood, front bumper, and front fenders. That took SO long to get done with that, I decided not to polish any more of her car. She onlyl wanted a wash and wax, but of course I had to clay before waxing, and after claying I thought I'd try out the products I bought. I'm sure my car will take a LOT less time.

Posted by: KD00LS

Correction, some of the Collinite on hers. I think you have at least 3-4 applications worth in there if used with your PC and a white or gray pad. And I think you should. Judging by the way she takes care of her car, she'll need it.

Posted by: pektel

That's what I meant. I ws just thinking that since she doesn't take care of her car like i do, maybe she should have a longer lasting wax than the natty's

Posted by: Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Hey Kyle, how long do you think one should wait to apply Natty's Red over PB EX-P?

I have not used PB EX-P BUT, sealants typically take 12 hours to cure...unless they are a "fast curing" sealant like CG Jetseal 109....

Posted by: pektel

Thanks man (what is your name, btw?). I thought it might take a while. But it should be ready by 5.

Oh, and I now see what you mean about the 6.5" pads. I HATE them. I only say that because you informed me that 5" pads would be better for cutting. The hood/fron fenders took me over an hour. And only half the imperfections are gone. It looks loads better than it did, but I thought i'd get more results than that.

Posted by: Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Thanks man (what is your name, btw?). I thought it might take a while. But it should be ready by 5.

Oh, and I now see what you mean about the 6.5" pads. I HATE them. I only say that because you informed me that 5" pads would be better for cutting. The hood/fron fenders took me over an hour. And only half the imperfections are gone. It looks loads better than it did, but I thought i'd get more results than that.

No prob... My name is Jason

Yup, 6.5" pads with a PC is the equivalent of a long, slow, painfull death...lol

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deep Gloss Auto Salon

I have not used PB EX-P BUT, sealants typically take 12 hours to cure...unless they are a "fast curing" sealant like CG Jetseal 109....

Ah right, I think I might have been thinking the time you need until you can buff it off. OR maybe I just wasn't thinking...

Posted by: KD00LS

Just placed an order for Poorboy's World SSR3(Refill) and Collinite 915 wax. The 915 competes with waxes that cost thousands of dollars in durability, depth and shine. I also ordered Black WOW Trim Restorer, which is supposed to be the holy grail of trim restoration, besides redying(I have stuff for that too). I'm going to attempt to restore that corroded trim outside of the windows on our LS's that many of us have.

Pektel, pictures of your car asap.

Posted by: pektel

well, I'll post a few pics, but these are BEFORE any paint correction. I've just washed with CWG, claybar (meg's), EX-P, and Natty's Red. I plan on doing the correction before the snow flies, because all the protection is coming off, with Klasse Sealant Glaze and Collinite 845 Insulator Wax for better durability.

Here's the pics as of today. I didn't have the best light, but I'll save the reflection pics for after I correct the paint.

Posted by: KD00LS

Nice, paint looks very wet. Natty's is real nice on light colored cars. Did you wash your wheels in those pictures? Doesn't really look like it.

Posted by: pektel

Nope. Not yet. These wheels were ruined by whoever owned the car before me. Full of what looks like hairline cracks, and streaks (like where a liquid ran down the side) and I can't get the marks off. I'm wondering if the finish is similar enough that I could actually use a compound on them. But I've heard that a wheel clear coat is plasticized.

Posted by: pektel

And the car hasn't been washed in about a week. So yes there is a lot of accumulated brake dust on the wheels. I have a jar of PB Wheel Sealant, I just need to pull all 4 wheels and do a thorough cleaning. What do you use on your painted wheels?

Posted by: KD00LS

I use a schmitt, it's a black coarse foam mitt. If you have a lot of streaks and stuff stuck on your wheels, I'm gonna have you use a Heavy Duty Mr. Clean Magic Eraser like a claybar.

1.Heavily concentrate a soap, like CWG, about 2oz. You'll actually only need about a half gallon of water at most, and your rinse bucket of course. Dip the magic eraser in the soap mixture and use it as a lube as you would QD for claybarring. The eraser has an abrasive nature to it, so it will take scuffs and minor stains off just like a polish would on regular paint. Don't use these on regular paint, they will harm it. You should notice a lot of the scuffs and stuff on there being removed. Bend the eraser like a piece of pizza into the lug nut holes as well, they'll become very clean. Try to develop a pattern with each wheel as to not forget a spot.

2.Next you'll want to claybar the wheels, preferably with a piece of clay you already used on the paint for monetary saving purposes. Claybars should be used at follows... Paint --> Glass --> Wheels. This prevents brake dust from going on to paint and as you use it throughout the steps the clearcoat or surface is a lot harder so the contaminants in the bar will affect the surface less.

3.Use an applicator pad to use your Poorboy's SSR (2.5 if you have it) to polish out any imperfections left by the eraser. Even if the hairlines are too deep, the polish will round the edges off and they'll become a lot less noticeable due to the newly reflected angle of light. Use a 50/50 Isopropyl/Water mixture to remove the oils and fillers from the polish after a microfiber wipedown. This will also provide a clean base to prep the surface for a sealant.

4.For maximum protection, use KSG and allow to cure overnight. 12 hours I believe is what Jason said. After the sealant has cured, apply your PBW Wheel Sealant. You'll find your wheels ALOT easier to clean than before, If you buy a pressure washer you'll actually be able to clean them without soap and water.

Should take about an hour or so but it'll be worth it. Definitely will be the cleanest your wheels have ever been.

Posted by: pektel

Thanks! Hopefully goin to do this tomorrow after work! I only have SSR3 and SSR2 though. And Menzerna PO106FF, but I think that is only for machine use. I'll try SSR2 first, and see what that does. I already have the Auto Mr. Clean magic Eraser sitting underneath my kitchen sink, so I think I'll probably just use that. It'll take me longer than an hour because I'm goin to pull the wheels 2 at a time to do this. I'd like to get the entire wheel while I'm there.

Posted by: KD00LS

Yeah I'd like to pull my wheels off but my lugs suck. They'll strip if I take them off, I gotta order some sooner or later. Make sure you get about a pack or two of the erasers if you're going to do the barrels of the wheels.

Posted by: owlman

I have a question, I often use Turtle ICE polish because it's so quick and easy. But now I feel like putting on a longer-lasting paste wax (which is what I used to use before buying the ICE). Will it apply and stick OK with the ICE underneath?

Posted by: pektel

Just wait a week, or a good rain. The ICE should have worn off by then

In reality though, I would remove the paint protection you have on there now and start from scratch. What shampoo do you use to wash your car? Have you ever used a claybar to remove embedded contaminates?

Posted by: pektel

I used Natty's Red paste. I used a Porter Cable 7424 to apply it, so it was just as effortless as the ICE.

Posted by: KD00LS

Use a shampoo and heavily concentrate it to strip the wax. If you want a long lasting and relatively cheap wax, look at Collinite. 845 is extremely easy to apply and lasts long($15), 476 is a paste version of 845 and is easy($16), and 915 Marque d' Elegance is a paste that competes with the top of the line wax for $30. If you have a Harbor Freight near you they usually stock it.

Posted by: pektel

I didn't know if you could just concentrate any old car shampoo to remove paint protection, that's why I asked what type of shampoo he uses. And since he'll be investing more time into applying the wax, and wants better durability, I figured clay barring the car would be in order too. you can pick up a meg's kit from walmart for under 20 bucks, and has enough clay to get at least 2 uses out of.

Posted by: pektel

Oh, and 3 of the wheels turned out very well. The 4th is better, but you can still see the streaking/cracks. It's been raining all day, so I'll have to re wash the wheels before I put up a few pictures. I forgot to take any "befores".

Posted by: KD00LS

Hmm still streaking huh? Maybe invest in a wheel gel to try and break it down chemically. Try P21S Wheel Gel, it's one of the best kinds you can get. Let it dwell on there for a while and repeat the process. And yes good call with the claybar as well, forgot to mention that.

Posted by: pektel

Well it's not your normal streaking. It's like someone used a cleaner that was not meant for painted wheels, sprayed it on, and where it ran down the wheel, it chemically damaged the finish. I even tried ssr3 with a mf applicator pad, and while getting it toned down, it did not completely remove it. I'm getting a set of these same wheels in chrome in the next couple weeks, and these will be retired to the garage until the winter.

Posted by: KD00LS

Not a bad plan. If you feel like getting really crafty you can respray them yourself. I'm anxious to see how my process turned out on your wheels, get those pictures asap.

Posted by: pektel

Okay, Kyle. Here's a few pics. There are many defects on the wheels that can onlyl be remedied by refinishing, but apart from those they turned out pretty good! The pic with the green circles is the areas I couldn't completely remove the streaking:

Posted by: pektel

have any recommendations for the wheel weights? I HATE the ones on my wheels because they are severely chipped. I'm wondering if I should clean them up the best I can, then paint them...

Posted by: pektel

Oh, and notice the new lug nuts on the first pic. I have them on just the front wheels now. The backs will be changed out when I do the caliper paint. They look SO much better than the stock ones. A few of mine were stripped when I changed them, but I used a breaker bar with impact sockets. For the ones that were stripped, I used the next size smaller (IIRC 19mm) socket, and hammered it onto the stripped lug. Didn't take long, but make sure you don't miss!

Posted by: KD00LS

I think lugs nuts are my next step. I attempted a window trim restoration and it turned out alright, better than before.

Posted by: pektel

The B pillars? or the actual black/chrome window trim?

Posted by: KD00LS

Both actually, I did a B pillar resto last year using cleaner wax. I find that a finishing polish will remove most of the water spots and such. I used a magic eraser to remove the top-most layer of the rubber and then conditioned it with Black Wow.

Posted by: KD00LS

Feel free to ask me any recommendations etc. on products. I don't know everything but I can sure point you in the right path.

Posted by: pektel

You use SSR3 right, Kyle? Have you noticed a really short working time? How long do you normally work that polish for? It seems like for me it only dries out. It doesn't break down to clear really. I got some nasty trails on the girlfriends car. They came out with 106FF though. That menz 106FF works like butter compared to the SSR3...

Posted by: KD00LS

I have SSR3, and it comes in handy sometimes because of the PC not being as powerful as rotaries. You rarely need it, but I do notice the dusting happening quickly with it. You can try and formulate a new polish with some lubrication, try using like a QD or clay lube or something. Don't quote me 100%, I'm not sure if they use that. Heavier compounds will almost always leave a haze behind, so that's why people follow up with finishing polishes.

Posted by: pektel

I understand about the hazing that would normally be left behind, but this was ridiculous.

Do you think maybe adding a couple drops of SSR2 to the pad when I put the SSR3 on would extend the work time? I'm thinking that may be the ticket. I just don't want to hinder the cut of the SSR3.

Posted by: KD00LS

Try working it at speed 4 for a little while and then up to speed 5 or 6. I messed around on the hood of my mom's Expedition and I left some random haze, pissed me off pretty bad. It's almost as if you need three steps of polish to remove haze from SSR3.

Posted by: pektel

Well the stuff feels like liquid sandpaper...

Posted by: KD00LS

Here's a great newer product from Chemical Guys, Citrus Wash and Clear. When you want to safely strip the wax, this stuff is great. It removes all dirt and grime, grease and oil, EVERYTHING. You can dilute it for regular washings, but for weekly washings, I'm recommending Citrus Wash and Gloss. It has a glossing/quick detailed left appearance on the car. Great stuff.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...nd-Clear-P221/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...-Gloss-P178/s/

For those of you using less than quality soap, even if you are using a decent soap like Meg's Gold Class, try gloss out. You'll be amazed.

Posted by: pektel

Citrus wash and Clear is on sale at detailedimage today too. 6 bucks for 16 oz.

Oh, and FYI, I just went to target the other day, and had gallons of MGC for 6 bucks. I picked one up, only because It's one of the best for OTC shampoo's. I might have a gallon of Meg's super degreaser, meg's last touch, and CWG coming soon...

Posted by: KD00LS

How'd you like the CWG, I sent you a sample right?

Posted by: pektel

I love the stuff. I still have a little bit left, actually. It blows Meg's Gold Class out of the water, that's for sure. And the smell is even awesome. The guy I'm buying those meg's gallons from is sending me a 16 oz container of the CWG instead of the full gallon. He changed his mind and didn't want' to sell the whole thing.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I love the stuff. I still have a little bit left, actually. It blows Meg's Gold Class out of the water, that's for sure. And the smell is even awesome. The guy I'm buying those meg's gallons from is sending me a 16 oz container of the CWG instead of the full gallon. He changed his mind and didn't want' to sell the whole thing.

Haha I wouldn't either. I wash the car (when I'm home from school) every 3 days. What'd you snag the 16oz for?

Also, anyone who lives near a Harbor Freight, keep an eye out for Collinite and Duragloss products.

Post number 2000! Wow, I'm slow.

Posted by: pektel

5 bucks. I got those 2 gallons for 15 bucks total. So 20 plus shipping for all that. I think I made out okay

Posted by: hellfiya

Newbie quick question the baking soda steps and procedure. do you wet the car first and then apply baking soda. I need some info. also the steps of getting the swirls out and everything els out. so what do you do first baking soda, dry and then stuff for swirls....your help is appreciated...thx...

Posted by: KD00LS

The only thing I've heard of using baking soda is to neutralize the acidity of certain wheel cleaners after use. If your using it for decontamination, just use a paint cleanser/strongly concentrated soap. Generally, the steps of a complete detail are as follows...

Wash
(Drying here can be skipped to cut down time)
Claybar
Dry
Bug/Tar/Paintwork cleansing and examination
Compound Polishing (one to three steps usually based on the condition and desired outcome)
Finishing Polish (Burnishing polish to a high gloss)
50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol wipedown or rewash to remove polish oils
Glaze
Sealant
Wax
Quick Detailer

Of course this is for paint, painted wheels with clearcoat can be followed with the same steps, preferably polish, clay,and sealant, wax won't hold up to the brake temperatures.

Let me know if this helped and if it is what you were asking.

Posted by: hellfiya

Yes this is what i want to know......and some extra...
Wash***********what kind of soap do i need
(Drying here can be skipped to cut down time)
Claybar*****what's a claybar....
Dry
Bug/Tar/Paintwork cleansing and examination*********what can i use to clean this....
Compound Polishing (one to three steps usually based on the condition and desired outcome)*********What Kind of material i need****shiny***
Finishing Polish (Burnishing polish to a high gloss)*******what kind of polish
50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol wipedown or rewash to remove polish oils****this Isopropyl where can i find it any car store...
Glaze****what the names of glaze i can get....
Sealant*****what kind of sealant
Wax*****what kind of wax...
Quick Detailer*****meaning buffing or wiping down...the car...
Sorry for all the questions i've never done this....and like to learn.....to my car shiny.....

Posted by: KD00LS

In lieu of normal forum procedures, just read this whole thread, shouldn't take you more than ten minutes. If you still have questions, I'll be glad to answer them.

Claybar- Polyelastic clay used in combination with lubrication to remove embedded contamination particles.
Quick Detailer- A polymer spray, usually lasts very shortly, you spray on just like Windex (on the paint obviously) and buff off with a microfiber towel. Great for in between waxes, bringing a higher gloss, and some even have an anti-static agent to repel dirt and airborn particles.

Posted by: hellfiya

i try ready them all thx for the help.....

Posted by: KD00LS

Which ones did you decide on?

Posted by: KD00LS

This is an awesome idea from Rubbish Boys. They're a top quality out of the U.S. Applying wax in a tin or jar to a machine applicator pad is a pain sometimes, but these guys have a "new" way to solve the problem. Take a look. http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/sho...product_id=117

Posted by: Eric0508

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Both actually, I did a B pillar resto last year using cleaner wax. I find that a finishing polish will remove most of the water spots and such. I used a magic eraser to remove the top-most layer of the rubber and then conditioned it with Black Wow.

Can you give a description of what was involved in your b-pillar restoration? Is it just a matter of using cleaner wax? or is there more steps? Thanks, ive been enjoying this thread immensely.

Posted by: KD00LS

For the B-Pillar, I found that most of the crap stuck on there was water spots. I used my Porter Cable 7424 but I feel as if you could do this with hand power as well. I actually used Zymol Cleaner Wax because it has small abrasives in it. So a finishing polish would be more abrasive, making it easier for you to hand polish them. I never got them to a complete resto because of the lack of supplies I had at the time, but never really tried again. It did look a lot better. I'm glad your enjoying the thread and I hope a lot more people are, I just wish there was more discussion.

An AIO product like the Klasse I listed would also probably work.

Posted by: Eric0508

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I'm glad your enjoying the thread and I hope a lot more people are, I just wish there was more discussion.

An AIO product like the Klasse I listed would also probably work.

Thanks! I wish i had more to input, but this thread's level of detail is beyond my experience. But I'm learning all sorts of new methods, even the simplest stuff (two bucket-method, clay barring, correct order of products, etc) is new to me. Im trying to benefit from everyone's trial & errors, so keep posting.

Posted by: KD00LS

I meant feel free to ask questions, even I still have a lot to learn.

Posted by: Eric0508

based on your experience, what kind of reasonable priced glaze should i be looking for?

Posted by: pektel

I just bought some Chemical Guy's EZ Creme Glaze. The shine is great, it was pretty cheap (IIRC about 16 bucks), and it smells awesome. Just like grape.

Posted by: NHLSV8

I forgot about this thread.... here are some pics while mine was getting her week or two of love

had to build up the paint a bit

all done

Posted by: KD00LS

That wetsand turnout looks great. As far as glaze, I like EZ Creme Glaze and a lot of people like Danase Wet Glaze. EZ has micro micro micro abrasives to bring out a little better shine.

Posted by: Eric0508

I have sooo many products to buy.... I just have to decide whether to invest in some quality paint products, or spend the cash on something performance-wise, like a KKM intake. Decisions decisions. Thanks for the help everyone!!

Posted by: pektel

Well you know what they say... "Lookin good ain't goin fast, but goin fast is lookin good!"

Posted by: NHLSV8

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Well you know what they say... "Lookin good ain't goin fast, but goin fast is lookin good!"

well any car can look good going fast. its when you slow down that people stop and take notice.

Posted by: pektel

Right, I guess I was more looking at it from the viewpoint of "if I only had 1000 to spend, and the car was bone stock" what would i do? I'd put in a few mods instead of buying a buffer and polishes, wax, sealant, clay, microfibers, etc.

I guess it's all personal preference. If you could only choose one: Would you rather go fast or look good? I did other mods before I bought my DA polisher and all the products. But my car is ivory, so it doesn't take a whole lot to make it look presentable.

Posted by: NHLSV8

yeah I did performance too.... and would every time

Posted by: KD00LS

After two speeding tickets, I'll stay with lookin good.

Posted by: NHLSV8

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

After two speeding tickets, I'll stay with lookin good.

hmmmm after three over 100 i bought the LS.... now I have both! HAHAHAHA

Posted by: KD00LS

Chemical Guys has a new wax out called E-zyme, which is supposedly made with all natural chemicals. Bears a ~$280 dollar price tag per pot though and is only made mid year due to supply of ingredients. A few guys on my other forum have purchased it, I'll wait to report.

Posted by: JWerner2

E-zyme, the name sounds interesting. Honestly though I bet that stuff works well.

Posted by: pektel

I've only read one review. It was nothing short of spectacular. I'm stil waiting to see better resolution photos though.

Posted by: KD00LS

Usually Chemical Guys puts out great products. I think there's only been a very few products that were mediocre.

Posted by: antonio fuller

hi i looked a the pics and like the detail job im not a detailer just would love to get my ls done i live in atlanta georgia you no any good places i can go to for a full detail

Posted by: KD00LS

What exactly do you want done? Wash/Wax, full paint correction, single step polish?

Posted by: KD00LS

I need suggestions PEOPLE! Tell me what you want to know about and I'll snoop around and bring it here.

Posted by: pektel

give me a review of Crystal Rock please...

Posted by: KD00LS

As soon as I sell my car haha. I just got an EZ detail brush and Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse. Rainclear gel too and scrub. Coming in the mail.

Posted by: pektel

Sweet. Let me know how you like the EZ Detail brush. I was getting close to placing an obsessivedetail order.

If you had to choose between these 2 nuba's which one would you purchase?

Lusso Oro or Wet Obsession? I like the price of Lusso Oro, and have heard some good things about it.

Otherwise, I'll wait til tax return time, and maybe get the E-Zyme.

Posted by: KD00LS

I haven't used either actually. I'd go cheaper first and then move to the more expensive ones. I've heard good things about Lusso anyway.

Posted by: KD00LS

Detailed Image 20% off for a short while, good chance to pick some stuff up.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/

Posted by: pektel

This sucks! I'm in the middle of refinancing my house right now, so I don't want anything else on my credit cards! I wanted to pick up Citrus Wash and Clear, the wheel gel, and a bunch of other crap. Hmmm...

Posted by: JWerner2

How much free time do you have? Call a friend or two and set up some appointments with them to do a detail.

Posted by: pektel

I wish I could. But working full time plus a 1 year old takes up most of my time. And my friends (like myself) only have 1 vehicle. It would take a Friday night, all day saturday, and waxing on Sunday. Most of those guys don't want to be without their cars for that long.

Posted by: KD00LS

Answer: Child Labor.

Posted by: KD00LS

First off I'd like to say my wheels have never been this clean. It gives my a car an almost sportier look due to the increased visual depth of the wheel, which is pretty cool. Anyway, onto the review.

Ease of use: The brush is pretty much self explanatory and the ability to bend and curve around in the wheel barrel make it so much easier to clean than just a regular stiff brush. Although it accidentally bends sometimes during use, this feature is a great addition.

Effectiveness: I found this brush easily removes dirt and grime in combination with a good wheel cleaner (in this case PB Spray n Rinse) or concentrated soap. Although it does lack slightly in the scrubbing area, I can understand why because too abrasive of a material for the bristles will compromise the finish of a wheel. It gets into tight nooks and crannies very easily.

Cons: One problem I encountered, besides the bending, was the splatter. This thing makes you pay for clean wheels! If you are using a highly acidic wheel cleaner, try and keep your face clear. I'd recommend using nitrile gloves as well, it really does spit the dirt back out at you.

Value: Although it is a little pricey (~$22-$27) I feel it is an important tool in a detailer's arsenal. The ability to establish one's self beyond the normal standards of detailing(the general publics notion), in this case cleaning the interior of the wheel, sets one apart from just a wash and wax reputation.

Overall, and keep in mind after only one use, I rate this product a 9/10. It does little to combat baked on brake dust, but only a few products actually can. Anywhere from "clean" to mediocre brake dust, this thing tackles it like a champion. By far the easiest way to clean a wheel without removal.

Posted by: KD00LS

Well in a timely manner (1 day shipping) today my Swissvax brush came from Detailers Domain and I had the chance to try it out on my friends 1990 Mustang (331 Stroker ~low 12 second car). The Weld wheels had protruding lug nuts and various size holes for venting, a perfect candidate for the new brush.

Ease of use: Very easy to use. A lightweight brush and pretty darn self explanatory.

Effectiveness: The brush has a suprising texture to its bristles. It is pretty soft, but maintains strength rather well when pressed against the wheel. I was hard pressed to find a spot of contamination that aggitation with this brush couldn't remove.

Cons: The brush head is a tiny bit small for the standard definition of a wheel brush. It takes a little more time to clean the bold face of the wheel. Although small, if makes you pay attention to the finer details and helps get in the nooks easily.

Value: For a Swissvax product, this is like a freebie almost. It seems pretty sturdy and well manufactured. (10 dollars for a long lasting product is no problem)

Overall I like this brush alot even though like the EZ Detail Brush, I've only used it once. It cleans up nicely and is a very high quality product. Overall I'd give it a 9/10, but it would be a challenge to find something better. Let's be honest anyway, it says Swissvax on it. Now it's serious.

Along with my order, DetailersDomain was nice enough to send me a free bottle of Einszett polish to try out. I won't be using it for about a week, but I'll be making another review of it.

Posted by: JWerner2

Hey how about explainig the purpose of tyhe guy in that link cleaning the wheels with wheel bright and the neutralizing baking soda method?

Posted by: KD00LS

The wheel cleaner he was using was of acidic nature for cleaning power, and he neutralized the pH of the solution on the wheels with baking soda. If you aren't familiar with this, think of it like a see-saw. Acidic on one end, Basic(alkaline) on the other. Ideally the see-saw would like to be balanced. Baking soda is generally about a pH of 8, I'm not sure what the wheel cleaner was. It was just an extra precaution as to not damage the finish of the wheels. Generally water and anything you don't want to damage, you want to keep between a 6.5-7.5, which is basically what you'll find the range of the pH of water to be(ranging from distilled to mineral water respectively). One would think that with dilution of the acid with water would neutralize the pH(to 7) but this is not always the case. Some acids can break apart H2O molecules using the hydrogen molecules to create more acid compounds, therefore resulting in a lower acidic pH. I've seen a writeup or two about a pH of 5 on some wheel cleaners being brought down to about a 4.5 with the introduction of water. Anything too acidic or basic can potentially damage the finish of the wheel. They do have pH neutral wheel cleaners, such as P21S, that are very wheel finish safe.

Posted by: LsUnV2

To Kd00ls and pektel, after reading for an eternity with no actual understanding lol, i would like for you guys to come up with your top picks or your preferred lineup of products with this in mind:

I wash everyother day

brake dust has been a problem on my wheels: is there something to seal or repel this dust somewhat?

intense shine is a must

anti static products a must

I have the time at least once a week to do complete paint detail.

hopefully this is not too vague but im very interested in making my car look as good as possible and want only the best product results possible from your gathered experience.

thanks

Posted by: KD00LS

Wash: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss for every other day washes, just be careful not to concentrate it too heavily or you'll strip the wax. It has a gloss agent that adds a nice maintence shine to the paint.

Brake dust: I'm assuming you mean dusting after a while and not baked on or caked on brake dust considering you wash ofter. Looks for Rejex, Duragloss 501 Total Performance Polish or any other long lasting paint sealant. Simple car wax will not hold up to the temperature some brakes put off. For a little better shine on the wheels, use Aquawax from Duragloss as a quick coating after 501. The Duragloss combination can also be used for paint. If your looking for a wax recommendation shoot me a price range.

Anti Static- Finish Kare 425 Anti Static Quick Detailer. Apply with a microfiber, then go back and buff with a microfiber. Rub lightly so not to cause more static. Can be used to maintain shine between waxes.

What do you mean detail, as in wash and wax once a week? Or polish? You don't need to polish every week. Let me know if you need more specifics.

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

The wheel cleaner he was using was of acidic nature for cleaning power, and he neutralized the pH of the solution on the wheels with baking soda. If you aren't familiar with this, think of it like a see-saw. Acidic on one end, Basic(alkaline) on the other. Ideally the see-saw would like to be balanced. Baking soda is generally about a pH of 8, I'm not sure what the wheel cleaner was. It was just an extra precaution as to not damage the finish of the wheels. Generally water and anything you don't want to damage, you want to keep between a 6.5-7.5, which is basically what you'll find the range of the pH of water to be(ranging from distilled to mineral water respectively). One would think that with dilution of the acid with water would neutralize the pH(to 7) but this is not always the case. Some acids can break apart H2O molecules using the hydrogen molecules to create more acid compounds, therefore resulting in a lower acidic pH. I've seen a writeup or two about a pH of 5 on some wheel cleaners being brought down to about a 4.5 with the introduction of water. Anything too acidic or basic can potentially damage the finish of the wheel. They do have pH neutral wheel cleaners, such as P21S, that are very wheel finish safe.

Ok, I got that. Yeah I make my own buffers for my Cichlid tanks. Being rift lake Cichlids from Tanganyika they need high PH and my tap water is very very low. I use a mix of epsom salt for keeping the Alkalinity straight and the Bi carb which is in the form of Baking Soda for the PH.

I did not know that that could play a factor in harming the finish. Good to know thanks!!!

Posted by: KD00LS

Sounds like you know exactly what I mean. Supposedly a little basic water is better for humans too.

Posted by: LsUnV2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Wash: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss for every other day washes, just be careful not to concentrate it too heavily or you'll strip the wax. It has a gloss agent that adds a nice maintence shine to the paint.

Brake dust: I'm assuming you mean dusting after a while and not baked on or caked on brake dust considering you wash ofter. Looks for Rejex, Duragloss 501 Total Performance Polish or any other long lasting paint sealant. Simple car wax will not hold up to the temperature some brakes put off. For a little better shine on the wheels, use Aquawax from Duragloss as a quick coating after 501. The Duragloss combination can also be used for paint. If your looking for a wax recommendation shoot me a price range.

Anti Static- Finish Kare 425 Anti Static Quick Detailer. Apply with a microfiber, then go back and buff with a microfiber. Rub lightly so not to cause more static. Can be used to maintain shine between waxes.

What do you mean detail, as in wash and wax once a week? Or polish? You don't need to polish every week. Let me know if you need more specifics.

price range is infinite, i want a top level wax that will leave people in awe.lol.
And as far as the wheels are you saying to apply two products? i have never polished my car or any car for that matter, scared to ruin the paint. with just a lil direction im sure i can tackle it though. so lets just say i need a polishing kit and the stuff you mentioned before. where to go and what not. thanks

Posted by: KD00LS

If you aren't familiar with polishing I'm going to recommend Klasse All-In-One. You can apply it by hand and it leaves a nice prepped finish to apply a Last Step Protection. No price range eh? I don't think you know what you got yourself into.

Dodo Juice Supernatural: Sounds wild, it's a UK based company.
You can get it through DetailedImage, 30ml or 250ml size. You might want to try 30ml first considering it's a 200 dollar wax. They also have a few other waxes on there that are nice.

Wanna get real expensive? The "best" detailer in the world, Paul Daulton out of the UK is marketing his own wax through Swissvax called Crystal Rock. It is outstanding wax and lasts for a while. Pricetag...1100 bucks. Swissvax also carried a lot of nice waxes such as Concorso.

A lot of people like Chemical Guys E-Zyme wax even though it just came out, about 274 dollars.

Now if you didn't expect to be ballin like this, try Lusso Oro, Poorboy's World Natty Paste Wax Red, Einzsett Glanz Wax, Collinite 915, or 50/50 from Chemical Guys. These are all under 50 bucks if you get them from the right place.

Anything else you need to know?

Posted by: KD00LS

With the wheels, one is a sealant (501) and the other is a quick detailer that you put on top to give it a little more pop and depth, but won't last long(Aquawax or FK425).

Posted by: pektel

Well, if money is truely no object, then go for Swissvax Crystal Rock. Incredible stuff. Otherwise a staple high end wax is Zymol vintage. Now, if you want something more durable for the winter months, Collinite 845 has excellent durability and is really inexpensive. Since I have a lighter colored vehicle, I opt for shine instead of depth. I use a sealant ( 2 layers) followed by 2 coats of wax. A sealant will last longer than a wax, but it lacks the depth that a good carnauba wax has.

Remember that prep is just as important (if not more important) as product used. A once yearly correction should be enough if your vehicle is garaged. I'd still claybar the vehicle twice a year (once in the spring, and once in the fall).

I use Duragloss 501 and AW on my wheels. Nice slick finish. I touch up with AW once a week so the wheels stay looking like new. I also have some Poorboy's Wheel Sealant that will be applied before the snow flies. You can use any paint sealant if need be though.

FK-425 is awesome stuff. I just bought a gallon a couple weeks ago. Even shines up the glass nicely.

I second Citrus Wash and Gloss for washes. Nice and slick suds, and the extra shine is a bonus.

What type of materials do you use to wash right now? Are you using the two bucket method with grit guard? multiple sheepskin wash mitts? What type of brushes/mitts for wheels/wells? And what do you use to dry?

Posted by: pektel

I use Natty's Red Paste. I love the stuff, but it's the only paste wax I've ever used. Next on my list is Lusso Oro. Unless I am feeling impulsive when I go to buy. I might end up with SN or E Zyme instead

Posted by: pektel

I'm sure we can help with a "grocery list" of sorts to get you hooked up to bring out the fullest potential of your exterior (interior too if you want).

Posted by: LsUnV2

uh............im a novice at best but my insane quest for perfection has me wrapped up in this very confusing thread. so i guess money is an option lol dont want to spend 1000 on wax. but may in the future as this "detailing" seems to be a sickness lol. So, guys, i need the citrus wash, sounds good so i guess i need a grocery list so make it already!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wash, sealant, wax, bla bla. All this is very overwhelming so just colaborrate and give me one list of what i would need. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! the disease is already incubating!!!!!!!help

thanks john

Posted by: KD00LS

And away we go

Wheels and Tires:

Wheels: EZ Detail Brush, Swissvax Wheel Brush, P21S Wheel Gel, Duragloss or Rejex for protection, FK 425 or Aquawax for added shine(not necessary)

Tires: Amazing Roll Off, Scrub Brush, Meguiars Hyper Dressing or Swissvax Pneu(expensive) or DP Wheel Gel or Surf City Beyond Black Tire Pro.

Wheel Well: Black ShMITT, Megs Hyper Dressing or CG Barebones, any diluted degreaser

Paint:

Wash: CG Citrus Wash n Gloss or Einszett Perls, Sea Sponge or Grout Sponge from Lowes by Proline(yes I'm serious) or a quality wash mitt, P21S Total Auto Wash or Surf City Road Trip Grime Destroyer or CG Grime Reaper, Two 5 Gallon buckets, Grit Guard

Clay: Meguiars Mild Clay or Adams Clay, FK425 or any quick detailer, Clay lube

Polish: CG AIO or Klasse AIO for now...

Glaze: CG EZ Creme Glaze or Danase Wet Glaze

Sealant: Jetseal 109, Klasse Sealant Glaze (PITA though), Full Molecular Jacket, Klasse AIO acts as a sealant as well

Wax: Previously stated recommendations

QD: Previously stated recommendations

Miscellaneous:

Windows: Zep Streak Free, Stoners Invisible Glass, Windows can be coated in wax or QD

Trim: Black Wow, CG Extreme VRP, Megs Hyper Dressing

Drying: Waffle Weave drying towel, free flowing water for runoff to help drying before hand

Microfiber: Uber towels from detailers domain, Pete will give more recommendations

Application: German Foam applicator pads from Detailersdomain, Microfiber blocks from CG

Interior:

Glass: Same as previously stated, Glass Thief Towel

Leather: Lexol for regular maintenence, Leatherique for restoration, detailers domain leather brush

Vinyl(Dash etc.): Vinylex or 303 Aerospace Protectant

Fabric: 303 Products

Carpet: 303 Products, Megs Interior APC diluted 4:1-10:1

Anything else? You'll notice a few things are universal, such as Megs HD, so that'll save you a little money.

Posted by: LsUnV2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

And away we go

wow so i guess ill pick one from each category and get started. is there one site that has most if not all of it

Posted by: KD00LS

Autogeek.net, Detailedimage.com, Detailersdomain.com, Chemicalguys.com... Keep in mind each category can't be completed with only one product from each. When I said "this or this or this" then yes one can be purchased, but after the comas you'll need something out of that group. Except when I got around sealant, those are all sealants. Same with Trim. One of each of those will suffice.

Posted by: LsUnV2

ok my head is spinning. i really have you working eh???

ok lets try this.. no or's or commas. lol. reduce down to your best pics overall again no or's or commas heehee. low to mid range on price

Posted by: pektel

How about this... 2 sections. Products, and Tools.

Products:

Wash: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss
Wheels: P21S Wheel Gel, Duragloss 501, Duragloss Aquawax, Poorboy's Wheel Sealant
Engine/wheel wells: Surf City Grime Destroyer
Tires: Amazing Roll Off
Glass: Stoners Invisible Glass
Claybar: This one you have a different choice based on fine or aggressive. Meguiar's or Sonus for fine clay, Adam's for more aggressive. I use Adam's and Meguiars.
Quick Detailer: Meg's Last Touch for clay lube. FK 425 (www.fk1usa.com) for actual shine enhancing, static reducing detailer.
Polish: Since you don't have a machine (rotary or dual action polisher) go with Klasse All in One.
Glaze: Chemical Guy's EZ Creme Glaze
Sealant: CG's Jetseal 109
Wax: Lusso Oro
Black exterior trim: CG Extreme VRP dressing

Posted by: pektel

Tools:

Microfibers:go to www.detailersdomain.com

get 5-10 of the Uber 16x16. I can't tell you how many of these I go through while polishing. You probably won't go through as many as me since you aren't using a machine. But they are awesome towels. I'll be ordering more soon! Although when I order more, I ight actually try the super plush towels from obsessivedetail.com. I've heard they are better than the Uber towels.

Waffle weave Drying towel: At least 1. Probably should buy 2.

go to detailedimage.com and pick up 2 reTHICKulous towels. Kinda spendy at 10 bucks a pop, but they perform the absolute best out of all that I have tried when it comes to the final buffing to bring out the shine in the nuba.

Get some cheapo general use MF's from costco or something. Use those for wheels. That way if one gets destroyed/too dirty, you can toss it. That's what I use for wheels/engine bay.

Foam applicator pads. The red CCS pads from Lake country work very well for applying waxes, sealants, glazes, etc...

EZ Detail Brush. I don't have one. Yet.

Swissvax Wheel Brush: probably 2. one for interior, one for wheels

Boar's Hair wheel brush

Nitrile gloves - all those chemicals mixing together on your skin would probably have an adverse reaction.

I have to get back to work, but Kyle can add to the list. Just thought this might work easy to separate products from tools.

Posted by: LsUnV2

thanks pete and kyle

Posted by: KD00LS

Guide on how to do it
http://www.detailedimage.com/guides.php

Posted by: pektel

I forgot to add wash mitts. Sheepskin seeems to be the norm. I just use the microfiber dreadlock ones from target.

I'm also going to be purchasing a pressure washer (Karcher probably), foam cannon (Kyle knows which one), and a leaf blower to dry the vehicle. After putting so much work into getting rid of scratches, I don't want to cause many new ones if I can help it.

Posted by: KD00LS

I'd go with a grout or sea sponge first. You're gonna love the foam cannon. It's like thug life compared to the foam gun, but it's only soap...lol. That whole setup should be around 300 bucks.

Posted by: JWerner2

Leaf blower? Damn thats creative,... I never heard that one. Good luck!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

Leaf blower? Damn thats creative,... I never heard that one. Good luck!

A couple people use them, electric that is. Gas would emit a film over the car. It doesn't really work with cars that haven't been prepped properly, like clayed, polished and waxed to a smooth surface where the water can run off.

Posted by: pektel

Right. And I just found an electric one at Menards for 40 bucks. Fair price? You tell me. The damn WW towel I bought was $20.

Posted by: JWerner2

Thats awesome!

Posted by: JWerner2

Ok, how bought this?

I took my wheels of for the winter. I washed them in the tub

with my HD cleanse. I didn't think it would make such a difference since they came out perfect but I used a clay bar on them afterwords. Still it made even more of a difference!

Now I want to get them ready to be stored. They will be stored in the house but I want to know what steps I should take next for when I put them back on to give them the best look ever for next spring.

Posted by: KD00LS

Layer sealant on them, wait 12 hours between each application (This does not mean wait 12 hours to buff off). It'll be easy since they are off. For quick touch ups use a Quick Detailer.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Right. And I just found an electric one at Menards for 40 bucks. Fair price? You tell me. The damn WW towel I bought was $20.

I want the one from Rubbish Boys soooo bad.

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Layer sealant on them, wait 12 hours between each application (This does not mean wait 12 hours to buff off). It'll be easy since they are off. For quick touch ups use a Quick Detailer.

OK, what brand do you recommend?

Give me a example of say stuff on the shelf ( found at parts stores ) and stuff I have to order.

After I layer it up all winter long

do you recommend following up with another product for a final finish or anything?

Posted by: pektel

There aren't a lot of shine products that would be durable enough to withstand the heat. Most paint sealants will work though. I've used both Poorboy's Wheel Sealant and Duragloss 501 (Available at CarQuest). I think you'll get more durability out of the Poorboy's.

After the Sealant, use Aquawax (made by Duragloss, available at CarQuest). Adds a nice shine, but no durability.

Posted by: JWerner2

I am thinking of the poor boys.

Any others? DP?

Posted by: pektel

You won't be disappointed with poorboy's. I can't speak for DP, since I've never tried it.

And just to be clear, Poorboy's isn't available at carquest. I was only talking about the duragloss.

Posted by: JWerner2

Ok. Yeah every time I do a google for something detail related the first link is autogeek anyway,...lol!

Posted by: KD00LS

Pick up some Spray n' Rinse from PB, also they have Duragloss 501 and 105 you should get for your Silver Frost Metallic.

Posted by: JWerner2

Ok will do. I like the look of yours. It looks like its coated in some kind of clear plastic lamination thats like 6"s thick. Its really weird in a very nice way!

I know Im getting some of those mits that fit over you fingers. Those look like such a relief!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

Ok will do. I like the look of yours. It looks like its coated in some kind of clear plastic lamination thats like 6"s thick. Its really weird in a very nice way!

I know Im getting some of those mits that fit over you fingers. Those look like such a relief!

Well thanks there partner. It might just be the angle. That was with Klasse SG and Collinite 845 though. And after a quicky two stage polish. It's really hard to get depth with silver. Zaino does a decent job with it and Duragloss is another. Do you mean the Wolfgang pocket things?

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I think it was in the what color is your LS thread. With the angle it didn't shine much but it looked rock hard, layered and spotless if that makes sense.

I think those pockets are what they are called. Im having a hard time finding them on the site now its so damn big!

Do you think these could be used as applicators?Microfiber gloves

Posted by: pektel

Those microfiber gloves work well for handling the paste waxes, if you are going to be applying using a machine. You actually take the "puck" of wax out of the container, and "butter" the pad with it. I just use rubber gloves though.

I think he's talking about those wedge shaped foam applicators from Wolfgang. There are other brands/shapes/materials out there too. those wolfgang ones say they have light cutting ability. I use a red CCS foam applicator like this:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...ator-Pad-P225/

I know it's not the wedge pocket, but it's super soft. I also use it when hand applying any LSP's. I have 2 of them so far.

Posted by: JWerner2

Its not really a wedge shape. Its like half of a oblong I guess and it fits only over your four fingers. I just like the looks of them and the gloves cause of my mesh and teh tight spots they make.

Damn that site for having so many products. I should have bookmarked the page!!!! I knew I had intents on buying them!

Posted by: pektel

These ones?

http://www.autogeek.net/wgpockets.html

Posted by: JWerner2

Close,... the ones I saw where blue and more round at the top. Maybe I didn't see them on that site

Posted by: KD00LS

You might be able to fit the Wool Buffing Balls off of autogeek into your spoke gaps.

Posted by: JWerner2

Which brand? Flitz? I have stupid power balls, I have the big red, mini red and that stupid yellow one I got as a gift from everyone at work a while back. They all suck a$$

!

They tend to do a good job at getting some of those spots you normally cant which in my experience means you cant get it out either unless you have a power ball or something just for removing. It used to piss me off big time.

Posted by: KD00LS

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country...hing-tool.html

Never used these though, keep in mind.

Posted by: JWerner2

Cool thanks. Besides all the detergent products out designed for washing microfiber and other type cloths do you recommend anything not so specific. I used to use dish soap to wash my cloths and all since it works so good at getting rid of wax and such.

Any thing on that?

Posted by: pektel

I just use dreft. Or Tide Free. I've never tried dawn before. I've heard to use vinegar during the rinsing to remove traces of the soap.

Posted by: JWerner2

Dreft? I think we used to use that for the kids when they were still very young. I never thought of that, it wont have any extras like fabric softeners. Thats my concern next to getting rid of all the wax and stuff in the cloths. Im just worried about any additives.

My damn wife though,... man she stuffs everything in the wash as soon as she sees it. I am constantly telling her to wash and dry the stuff separate and I now hide the damn things cause I had to replace so many so often. I would get so pissed off when I would pull one out and find the damn fabric softener sheet clinging to it!!!

Posted by: pektel

That's why I have a bin in my garage for the dirty towels. My girlfriend did the same to me about a year ago. Since then, I always throw them in a tupperware bin in the garage. She knows better now

Yes dreft. The same that I used to wash the baby clothes.

Posted by: JWerner2

Yawn!

Well at the ass crack of dawn this morning I put the order in for some Poorboys, finger pockets, a wool ball, micro fiber gloves and some other micro fiber towels.

Pektel, do you mean Carquest as in a parts store not online? I think we have one about 15 minutes away for the duragloss. The rest for the actual car Im getting in a few weeks or so. I cant believe they are still only just finishing the new buildings construction. The new pavement was put down yesterday and the building is complete so its all just some final detail. Hopefully no more digging and stirring up dust.

I attempted to was the car here yesterday with bucket and my huge sprayer but I need to take it to a carwash for a rinse. There is just way to much fall out on it from the construction.

Posted by: KD00LS

You might need a claybar if it was all over your car.

Posted by: JWerner2

Thanks, I know I will and it sucks cause I just did it not long ago.

So whats the recommendations on that? I have the Mothers kit which I really don't think it did much for my car. I used it on my wheels and it worked freakin great but they weren't at all that bad, not as bad as my car.

I hear Pinacle is a good choice.

Also I was just reading something on a NXT 2.0 forum that poorboy sucks compared to NXT? Is that just forum propaganda? I am sure its highly likely just that.

Posted by: KD00LS

Poorboy's Natty's Red? Ha, just look at the forum you're on. All Meguiars forums have some shameless plug like that. Not saying NXT 2.0 is a bad wax, it's one of the better OTC waxes. Meguiars Professional Mild Clay is decent, Pinnacle is good, Griots clay, Adams. I don't know ANYONE on my detailing forum that uses Mothers. They're like a brand that people swear by because they don't know any better, like people who buy Nu Finish.

Posted by: JWerner2

I agree about the Mothers. I bought it cause it was basically all tey had at the parts store in clay. I will stand by one simple product from them however and thats the Mag and aluminum polish. I have used that since I was a kid on bike parts and what not and that works dreams for what its need to do.

I figured the guy was BSing I just thought I would share it. He did sound pretty anal about his reasoning and called it "boutique shop hype".

I'm off to search the webs for some of those clay brands and see if I can find some good readings for comparison.

Thanks again.

Posted by: KD00LS

Boutique style hype is better than consumer line hype any day. People who shop at Boutiques usually at least have some notion of what they are talking about. Half of the consumer line stuff is mislabeled. Sign up on detailingbliss.com, you'll like the site. It's very friendly site and a good amount of traffic.

Posted by: pektel

PLUS one

detailingbliss is an awesome forum.

I just found an auto body supply shop about 30 minutes from me. Has all the Meg's professional/mirror glaze stuff I've wanted. polishing pads, polishes, etc. Also has 3M stuff, which I'm excited to try Ultrafina

Kyle, have you ever seen the meg's wheel brush? Looks a lot like the EZ detail brush.

The only bad things I've heard about poorboy's is some people don't like their compounds/polishes. I have SSR3 and 2. I really only use the 3, then follow with Menzerna PO106FF. I think some people aren't impressed with the work time of poorboy's.

Posted by: KD00LS

Right, but it's such a versatile product you have to have it on hand.

Posted by: JWerner2

It was really f*cking dumb. One of the complaints was the smell it produces. He also did one whole wheel at a time doing one side with NXT and one with poorboys. Then he complained about the amount of effort it took to remove it. Like I said, BS! I just wanted to share.

Thanks for the invite! If I join which I'm sure I will by the end of the day I'll make sure you get credited for it given they have a referral system or something.

Posted by: pektel

I love the stuff

I'm getting the itch to try Einzett Proline though... Or Prima. Prima is about the same price as poorboy's, but I've heard it works excellent with the PC7424.

Posted by: pektel

Oh, are you talking about Poorboy's Wheel Sealant? Then that guy put on too much product. Most all products work better THIN. Otherwise it's more work, and you're wasting product to boot. When I do Poorboy's wheel sealant, I do 2 coats, one right after the other, to ensure coverage. Then wait a day, and do a third thin coat. This nets awesome protection

Posted by: JWerner2

Probably did put it on to thick. He was also complaining about the size of the container. Probably didn't realize it don't take much of the stuff.

Posted by: pektel

Really? I wouldn't put it in an "expensive" category at all.

but I suppose, if he's only used to OTC products...

See, the difference between "Boutique" and "Consumer Line" products is HUGE. With a consumer line product, their main priority is lowest price. Quality of product becomes secondary.

With a Boutique product, the primary concern is making a product that performs. Price is secondary.

I figure it a waste of money to buy something that doesn't perform well.

Posted by: JWerner2

Yeah you got that right. Wanna talk expensive? Holy

look at this!

http://www.autoanything.com/car-care/69A2233A0A0.aspx

Posted by: pektel

That's nothing. Check out this:

http://www.zymol.com/zymolsolaris.aspx

Posted by: JWerner2

45K?

Good f****cking..... Satin thats a lot of cash!!

Posted by: KD00LS

Thin FTW. I think the free polish (about 6oz) that detailersdomain gave me might be proline. It came in a different bottle so I have to investigate further but I'm away from home right now.

Posted by: JWerner2

Well I joined...hehe!

Posted by: JWerner2

That forum is pretty cool. Intimidating as well!

I wish I could get my hands on some of those samples

Posted by: KD00LS

Yea I'm always afraid to recommend or say the wrong thing over there...so I do it here! J/K, it's so easy to learn over there, look at Pete. He probably knows more than I do now.

Posted by: JWerner2

I noticed,.. its kind of become Kyle and Pete's detailing thread!

j/k!

Posted by: JWerner2

Hey, how is the consitency of that PoorBoys? I was watching that video clip of the guy on Detailingbliss.com using his hands to apply wax. I really like that idea, I have seen it a few times before and I like how it lets you get the feel of the wax as you apply it.

Posted by: KD00LS

There's no real benefit to applying wax by hand, acting marring can occur if your hands are rough. Consistency of Poorboy's as far as what?

Posted by: pektel

I'd just use an applicator. Othewise, you need a harder wax to apply it by hand. At least that's what I've gathered.

On second thought, maybe it's not that you need the harder wax. Maybe it's because it's more difficult to apply a harder wax with an applicator. I've heard that warming an applicator would help with the harder waxes, actually.

Posted by: pektel

What Poorboy's product are you talking about?

The wheel sealant is very soft.

Posted by: pektel

detailedimage.com has Supernatural wax on sale right now for 149.99! So tempting... and you can apply this one with your hands

http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Ju...ural-Wax-P249/

Posted by: JWerner2

Well both nattys red and wheel sealant.

I know it wont do anything special but I just wanted to give it a shot.

I used some crapy Mothers carnuba that I had left ( the real hard stuff ) and it actually was harder to try to rub it on my hands. From what I saw a pasty like wax seems as if it would work best but I really did like how it went on by using my hands especially since I could get a feel of where it was going in the spokes of my wheels. Like I said, its just something I want to try. I did order the wool ball anyway so I'm sure I will use applicators more so often.

Posted by: KD00LS

Did you moisten the applicator with QD?

Posted by: JWerner2

?-what applicator? I was using my hands.

Posted by: KD00LS

You'll have to forgive me, I've been hung over all day. When you use an applicator, moisten it with Quick Detailer. I wouldn't really advise using your hands unless they are smooth. And if you have smooth hands, I'll question something.

Posted by: JWerner2

ha ok, well I didn't know about that trick but now I do. I was out at the bar till last call last night, well just after1:30 actually,.. Thirsty Thursday gotta love it. I was hung over all day and that really played with my head for a while.

Posted by: pektel

Just pulled all the wheels and cleaned them up. I just used Meg's Super Degreaser at about 6:1 dilution (to remove any previous protection, and works well on road grime), scrubbed, claybarred, and Poorboy's Wheel Sealant.

I forgot how much I like this sealant. You're going to be very happy, JWerner. The shine is awesome. I really prefer it to the Duragloss.

While cleaning them, I decided that I really need new wheels. When I first bought this car, I went to OReilly's for some cleaning supplies. I picked up everything I needed, and headed home. After doing a lot of the routine, I noticed that I accidentally bought the Eagle Chrome/Wire wheel cleaner. I reached for the Eagle A2Z Wheel Cleaner while in OReilly's, and must've grabbed it by mistake. Well, it etched the wheels on some spots. Looks like streaks of small scratches. I've tried polishing (up to SSR3 and 4" orange pad on PC7424) and everything. I guess it's not terrible, but being a perfectionist, it bugs the sh*t out of me.

Posted by: JWerner2

I cant wait for it all to come. I need to buy a few more things to.

I know what you mean about perfectionist. The first or second time I cleaned my wheels I got one very fine scratch that was not noticeable unless you tilted your head and had it in the right light but I thought I was going to faint. I went over it and over it with the Zymol Cleaner Wax I had. Did a hell of a job getting it out and shining it up!

I cant wait to see your new wheels man! I think my spare is like yours now. I have to look cause its been down in storage since I bought the car but I was wondering if it has a center cap that would fit.

Posted by: KD00LS

What did you spend if you don't mind me asking and what exactly did you get?

Posted by: JWerner2

PB wheel sealant

PB nattys red

Finger pockets

Those gloves which were buy one get one

3" wool ball and thats it.

Total of $91.90 after shipping.

All from Autogeek.com. I didn't plan on spending that much but oh well. I still gotta get that grill off of 02V8sport than I am set till December.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

All from Autogeek.com. I didn't plan on spending that much but oh well. I still gotta get that grill off of 02V8sport than I am set till December.

Story of my life. Oh you think you're done eh?

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

till December.

I still have some stuff that I am going to use up then come spring Im putting a wad down.

Posted by: pektel

I don't even want to add up all I've spent so far. I think that's a sign of a problem

Posted by: KD00LS

I've spent over $1500 and still have the same crappy lug nuts. Now that's a problem.

Posted by: pektel

Think of it as an appearance upgrade. maybe that'll get you to take the plunge! Want me to get you the part # again?

I finally just changed out the back lugs this past weekend when I did the wheels.

I think I only paid 75 bucks for the set.

Posted by: JWerner2

Got my stuff in yesterday KD. Second coat of PB's sealant is going on all 4 wheels today, and Pete that PM wasnt even funny.

Posted by: KD00LS

Nice, did you coat the inside barrel of the wheels as well?

Posted by: pektel

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

Got my stuff in yesterday KD. Second coat of PB's sealant is going on all 4 wheels today, and Pete that PM wasnt even funny.

The one about how awesome PB Wheel Sealant and Natty's Red smells?

Posted by: JWerner2

Yes Pete, I was huffing it all day after that

maybe thats why I was running off of 2 brain cells yesterday!

KD, thanks for the heads up, I forgot about doing the barrels! Makes total sense!

I just got over to my sister in laws house to see my new grill. I washed it up a bit and she said she would let me prep it so its nice and fresh come X-Mass time

. Said she will just leave it under the tree wrapped in nothing but a nice silver bow for when we get there to unwrap presents ( sounds so cheap and wholesome

).

I wanted to ask what I should use on the chrome as far as polish? I dont trust wadding polish or anything to harsh since its plastic dipped in chrome, I just dont trust it!

Also does anyone know if the chrome on the 03+ grills is a bit heavier/more durable than the chrome on the first gen's? Maybe it just feels heavy in total since it has the full chrome surround?

Posted by: KD00LS

I'm pretty sure Jason (Deep Gloss) uses Duragloss 501, the marine polish. He uses it on chrome trim so I'd imagine it's similar.

Taken from one of his writeups...

"Chrome Trim:
Badge and Chrome trime treated with Duragloss 501"

Posted by: KD00LS

I'm literally going through withdrawal right now from not being near my car, sucks so much!

Posted by: pektel

I know what you mean. I was in Atlanta for a week, and didn't have my car with me. It got a full (minus paint correction) detail when I got back

I still need to take the PC to my car! I'm waiting until spring. It's already too damn cold here. It gets below freezing at night already

Posted by: KD00LS

How was it down there? My sister lives down there in the city. Her car is FILTHY. If you saw a ball of dirt in the shape of a 2001 Celica, it was most likely her. She disgraces me, LOL.

Posted by: JWerner2

Pete, how did that go? I was wondering if you went to the Aquarium or not!

Posted by: pektel

I did go to the aquarium. I loved it, but the people I was with were too busy complaining that there were too many people there. I wanted to stick around at some of the lecture type things and actually learn some new things. Impressive place, but I need to go back to get my fill, that's for sure

Kyle, there was too much "kudzoo" or whatever for me to see much of anything down there while on the street

Posted by: KD00LS

I know it's a little late but if you guys catch this it's a great opportunity to pick up a pot of Natty's Paste Wax Red for a lot cheaper than normal.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...Paste-Wax-P31/

This means you Pete...

Posted by: pektel

I bought a pot during last month when it was the monthly special. So I have over 1 pot of it right now. I might be picking up some Lusso Oro

Posted by: ChrisTheBest

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I'm literally going through withdrawal right now from not being near my car, sucks so much!

try not having your car for over a year so far due to deployment.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisTheBest

try not having your car for over a year so far due to deployment.

Ouch... where are you stationed?