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Lincoln LS Detail

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Posted by: KD00LS

Not done by me, but a guy recently on my other forum had done a semi/paint correction on a Second Gen LS. Very nice work. After seeing some of your cars you could stand to do a search of Detailuniversity.com

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...incoln-ls.html

Posted by: HyeLifeLS

Wow man, can he wash mine too?

Posted by: pektel

I wish I had the extra cash laying around to buy half the equipment I need to properly detail my car. Although, the girlfriend would probably leave me, since I'd always be out in the garage...

Posted by: NYC LS8

Looks nice. I don't have the time or patience to do that stuff. lol

Posted by: King03LS8

You can make your car look just as good with regular washings and Ice wax, there is no need to buy all that garbage.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by King03LS8

You can make your car look just as good with regular washings and Ice wax, there is no need to buy all that garbage.

HA. Turtle Wax? You gotta be kidding me.

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Originally Posted by King03LS8

You can make your car look just as good with regular washings and Ice wax, there is no need to buy all that garbage.

You can make a car look nice with some pretty easy effort but this car looks better than factory!

Posted by: The Rev

I like how the LS guys always talk about detailing and the Mark VIII guys talk about all the things breaking on our cars! I wish I had the problem you guys do, keeping your cars shiny

Posted by: E.M.

Quote:

Originally Posted by King03LS8

You can make your car look just as good with regular washings and Ice wax, there is no need to buy all that garbage.

there is no possible way a regular wash and wax will get rid of swirls and spider scratches the way that "all that garbage" does.

I'd love to have him treat my car. The dealer I bought it from messed it all up with their buffer. Whenever I wash it, you can see all the buffer swirls in the sunlight. It needs that treatment!

Posted by: V-8

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rev

I like how the LS guys always talk about detailing and the Mark VIII guys talk about all the things breaking on our cars! I wish I had the problem you guys do, keeping your cars shiny

oh, we have problems.

im just waiting for the next thing to break!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by E.M.

Well if you are near, have him do it. I'm guessing you're from Hartford Connecticut though.

Posted by: King03LS8

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

HA. Turtle Wax? You gotta be kidding me.

Hey man....the Ice wax is pretty good. Several on here use it. If I want to really get it shining I use Zaino.

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A9G_bF8YY0...ew/ice_wax.jpg

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by King03LS8

Hey man....the Ice wax is pretty good. Several on here use it. If I want to really get it shining I use Zaino.

It puts a good shine on the car, but so does Olive oil. Do some serious research if you want a real shine that protects as well. You need to prep the paint before you apply all the glossy stuff (Glaze, Wax, Sealant). Zaino is a good product.

Posted by: King03LS8

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I always prep my paint before I apply any type of wax whether it be ice wax, zaino or olive oil, lets not make that mistake.

Posted by: JWerner2

For the typical job use Zymol.

Unless you are going all out like that guy nothing can beat it for a typical average persons job.

Posted by: pektel

The only zymol I ever see is the cleaner wax.

On Ice: I have it. Use it when I'm lazy, since it applies and wipes off so easily. But it seems like dust and things stick to my paint faster when I use it. It also seems I need to apply it almost every time I wash the car.

I need a buffer. KD00LS, since you are really into detailing, are you getting a Flex?

Posted by: JWerner2

I did the same thing with the Ice. I hate it now, it does seem to make stuff like pollen stick alot easier. It is a quick detail dont forget, so I wouldnt expect it to last that long let alone a good washing.

Posted by: PatrickSimmons

I thought I did a good job paying attention to detail on my car but I have othing on that.

Posted by: LSDB23

Yeah... you don't need all that. Just grab a CLAY BAR KIT from Mothers and some good polish and wax and your car will shine just like that.

Posted by: pektel

-1. clay bar does a good job decontaminating the surface, but does nothing for getting rid of paint swirls.

Dont' get me wrong, clay bar is a great step, and should be used, but it's intended usage is not for paint correction.

Posted by: LSDB23

Yes... Clay bar does nothing for swirl marks but again my car doesn't look as bad as the example used here.

But clay bar sure does make it easier for polishing and waxing.

Thanks.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I need a buffer. KD00LS, since you are really into detailing, are you getting a Flex?

Yes, I'm pretty into detailing. The Flex is an excellent machine. If I recall correctly it can switch between rotary and orbital and has 60% more power than the Porter Cable 7424. I have the 7424 and also like it alot, a very useful and cost efficient tool and virtually impossible to screw up on the paint.

Posted by: pektel

Oh yeah definitely. The difference is very measureable between clay barring and not before polishing/waxing. The first time I used it, then waxed. I had a big smile when I had the window down, and my hand outside just gliding over the smooooooth surface on the door.

Oh, and must be nice to have an 06. I bet the paint looks worlds better than mine.

Posted by: pektel

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I'd probably burn the paint if I had the Flex. I was just wondering because if you were going to purchase the Flex, I'd buy your PC

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

-1. clay bar does a good job decontaminating the surface, but does nothing for getting rid of paint swirls.

Dont' get me wrong, clay bar is a great step, and should be used, but it's intended usage is not for paint correction.

I agree and disagree slightly. The clay bar won't do anything to remove swirls, but as far as paint correction goes it is a crucial step. It is commonly overlooked by amateur/weekend detailers and is necessary in paint restoration. Removing the embedded dirt/tar/bugs/rain deposits is just as important as removing swirls and scratches. It can be a dangerously skipped step using a power tool and can cause even more scratches and marring if the paint you are correcting isn't completely clean. I apologize if I interpreted what you said wrong. The only step in a paint correction that *can* be skipped is the application of a glaze.

Posted by: LSDB23

Yes. 2006 is very sweet! Take a look at my picture gallery. I will be updating those pics tonight. As I took some pictures of my car right after I finished clay bar and wax.
And new LEDs in the REAR TURN signals.

Thanks!

Posted by: pektel

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

The only point I was trying to make is that clay barring all by itself won't correct the paint. I agree with you 100%. You could really hurt your paint by leaving all those surface contaminants stuck in your clear coat, then fire up the 7424...

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I'd probably burn the paint if I had the Flex. I was just wondering because if you were going to purchase the Flex, I'd buy your PC

If I were in the market for one I'd definately sell it to you cheap, but with the PC being able to correct 90-95% as much as the rotary and me just buying a 190 dollar Metro Vac n' Blow Vacuum along with about 80-100 dollars more on random products, I can't justify spending the money right now. Perhaps next week when the new paycheck comes in I can justify it. If you are interested in a review of the flex let me know, I can send you a link. If you had the Flex on orbital and used it properly I doubt you could burn the paint. If you want a random orbital polisher for safety with more power than the Porter Cable, look at the Ultimate Detailing Machine. Corny name, good product.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Depends on how each person defines "paint correction", but I definitely know what you mean.

Posted by: pektel

sorry, I meant to say it won't correct swirls, not "correct the paint"

Posted by: pektel

I've read the complete review of the Flex. Awesome machine. Too much power for me though. It was either on DU or detailedimage. That's where I saw that someone did burn the paint by letting it sit for not very long. But it might not have been set on orbital.

Posted by: The Rev

I figured I'd just check in on my comment last night, MAN you guys take your detailing seriously.

If I have a maaco paintjob, is there really anything I can do to get it to look as nice as that, you know what I mean like can I get it to look better than it does now with anything? I'm (like a few others said) lazy and I use the turtle wax spray as you dry and it does a decent job, for a few days. I have the ice but hate it, for some reason I dont think elbow grease is enough for it to work right, maybe I'm too weak.

I wash my car once a week because my black paint catches everything and I noticed the rain marks, they usually don't come off.

Some one give me a complete lineup of things to use and remember its a maaco paintjob so if its not gonna help dont let me waste money haha. I don't have a buffer either, is it worth it?

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rev

Some one give me a complete lineup of things to use and remember its a maaco paintjob so if its not gonna help dont let me waste money haha. I don't have a buffer either, is it worth it?

Buffer= Worth it. I can wash and wax a car, including tire shine and all that jazz, in under an hour. I'm talking removal of the wax too. I'm not too familiar with Maaco paintjobs, but if that's all you are doing to your car it definitely has more potential. Your car is black so you might be able to get a few extra shine points, but if I recall correctly that paint is either a two or three stage paint. I don't think you'll be able to get it that reflective, but you'll turn some heads if you put effort into it. If you are strapped for cash, I'd suggest buying the stuff, doing a couple cars and making your money back and then use the rest on your car. You can't lose.

Posted by: Don Guille

How Much Did you pay for this detail?
The Car looks Great!!!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by Don Guille

How Much Did you pay for this detail?
The Car looks Great!!!

This isn't my car, I own a Silver Frost Metallic 2000. The guy who did this posted this in my other forum.

Posted by: pektel

speaking of, did you give that guy the link to this forum? I saw that he had asked you...

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

speaking of, did you give that guy the link to this forum? I saw that he had asked you...

I gave him the website, not specific link. Good idea though.

If anyone has any questions about anything detail related feel free to ask on here, I'd like to get this going a little more. A sticky would be nice but we do have a lot already.

Posted by: pektel

Me too... It would be awesome if there were enough people on here to have discussions specific to LS detailing.

Posted by: Don Guille

My Car NEEDS a Detail wash!! BADLY!!!! Around how much you think that specific wash cost? The place were i take my car to get wash charges me $200 for a Dealer wash, (dats what they call it since they leave it like if you were gonna sell da car, they clean everything, i seen how the leave the motor and everything and DAMM it looks clean, but $ 200 is a lot! but jw how much for dat kind of wash on the red Ls....

How often do you guys detail your car?
i wash my car every week but i "detail" it every month not detail detail but actually take my time to wash everything and stuff....

Rather pay then do it myself..lol

Posted by: KD00LS

Dealer Wash? Sounds weird to me. I'm interested in hearing what that entails. For a midrange paint correction, I'd think that you'd pay anywhere from 150-200 depending on the detailer. Maybe more, maybe less. Dealerships have a bad reputation for putting halfass effort into a car and leaving buffer trails and all that. I can't say every place is the same, but the stereotypes probably exist for a reason. I'd say if your car still has swirl marks and other imperfections, that $200 "wash" isn't worth it.

Posted by: my04lincoln

I seen your car on detailersdomain.com the other day. Heres a pic of mine from awhile back.

Posted by: KD00LS

Very nice LS. How are those wheels working out for you? What offset? What products did you use on the car?

Posted by: my04lincoln

Thanks! I love the wheels. The products I used was Menzerna 106FF, Collinite 845 wax, DP Wheel Wax for the wheels, Meguiars tire gel and some other stuff. I get most of my stuff from Autogeek.net. They have the best Customer service anywhere. I had just put a coat of Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax and it turned out sweet. It seems some people dont get it what it takes to get a car to look the way our cars look. To do a quick detail it takes me about 4-6 hours because I'm so anal about the way my car looks. For example. Today I had this guy pretty much hanging out of his truck looking at my car. It was funny!!

Posted by: ecarlcl

Nice looking detail jobs.

I stumbled across this:

http://thedetailinghandbook.com/default.aspx

My only question is where do you buy this stuff? Grit guards, sheep skin mits, waffle weave microfiber towels, etc.. I'm assuming you can't get them at wally world.

Posted by: KD00LS

Awesome selection of products. Menzerna is a nasty brand of polish, relentless formula I'm sure you know what I mean. DP Wheel Glaze is pretty sick stuff, just started using it but I liked it. As far as Collinite 845, it is the rock of car wax. Last's like 3 months at least, and provides a damn good shine for that period. I know what you mean with that color. I've mini-detailed my friend's cars and my cousin always yells to calm down but I have a level of standard that I can't fall below, regardless if I charge or not. Pinnacle wax is also a great product. Anything autogeek.net made is either good-excellent. They settle for nothing less. Do you use a machine polisher? I don't like to for instance, use Armor All products, but their base level tire foam has pretty good cleaning abilities for tires and their Extreme Tire Shine provides a dirty shine for the money.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecarlcl

Nice looking detail jobs.

I stumbled across this:

http://thedetailinghandbook.com/default.aspx

My only question is where do you buy this stuff? Grit guards, sheep skin mits, waffle weave microfiber towels, etc.. I'm assuming you can't get them at wally world.

AUTOGEEK.NET

Posted by: ecarlcl

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

AUTOGEEK.NET

I knew there were websites but I was hoping for something local so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping.

To autogeek.net I go.

Thanks

Posted by: my04lincoln

I use the PC7424. I use the Armor All Extreme tire foam for the inner fender wells. It works pretty good. Just use it before you quick detail or wax your car. Menzerna is real nice but cost a pretty penny. The 106FF cost $49.99 a bottle and I have some Menzerna PO87MC and it cost's $29.99 a bottle. I have so much stuff I would hate to see what it would add up to! My wife would probably kill me.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by my04lincoln

I use the PC7424. I use the Armor All Extreme tire foam for the inner fender wells. It works pretty good. Just use it before you quick detail or wax your car. Menzerna is real nice but cost a pretty penny. The 106FF cost $49.99 a bottle and I have some Menzerna PO87MC and it cost's $29.99 a bottle. I have so much stuff I would hate to see what it would add up to! My wife would probably kill me.

I know what you mean. If I were married, I'd be divorced. I probably have 1500-2000 bucks worth of stuff.

Posted by: GWL

Check out the Glosshaus system. It did an incredible job on the original paint on my 20 & 27 year old cars and did very well on the LSE. Also Dave is a great gut to deal with and actually will answer questions on the phone. http://www.glosshaus.com/start.php

Posted by: my04lincoln

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

I know what you mean. If I were married, I'd be divorced. I probably have 1500-2000 bucks worth of stuff.

Same here man! I look at it this way! You get what you pay for..

Posted by: PatrickSimmons

This is an excellent topic. I don't have any professional stuff yet but I am starting my collection witt a few good products I picked up from Autozone.

Posted by: Gambini

wow be utiful

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatrickSimmons

This is an excellent topic. I don't have any professional stuff yet but I am starting my collection witt a few good products I picked up from Autozone.

What kind did you buy? One of my favorite over-the-counter products from retail stores like that is Stoner's Invisible Glass. Excellent cleaning ability and tint-safe.

Posted by: pektel

I love Stoner's Invisible Glass. Especially the foam one. I've never used the spray bottle one.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I love Stoner's Invisible Glass. Especially the foam one. I've never used the spray bottle one.

I haven't either. My guess would be that it actually works better than the foam, if anything. A common misconception, IIRC, is that foaming=cleaning power. I remember reading something that says the more foam concentration actually the less cleaning concentration. I'll try and dig the thread up. I think the best thing you are looking for in a soap is lubrication. I'm guessing the same goes for glass cleaner. This is why my foam gun is used exclusively as a pre-wash tool and then I move onto the two bucket method for regular cleaning.

Posted by: pektel

I just prefer the foam because it doesn't run down the window.

Which foam gun do you have?

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

I just prefer the foam because it doesn't run down the window.

Which foam gun do you have?

Gilmour Foam Master. I did a writeup a while back.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=32248

Posted by: JWerner2

I never seen the Stroners stuff but I don't have a Auto Zone I have a Advanced Auto closest to me and a few small time stores.

FYI PatrickSimons, some of those products are great but they still don't compare to the stuff the pro's typically use. Like I previously said and I am sure everyone knows, you can get a very, very nice look from some of those products but when it comes down to it they have a good a reason why they cost so much and the pro's dish out that cash. Especially with paint correction.

Posted by: pektel

Stoner's comes in a black can, about the size of a tall spray paint can. with yellow and blue writing. even wal mart carries it. i get mine from o'reilly's.

Posted by: KD00LS

If I don't have much choice, I'll usually lean towards the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze and Professional lines of products. They are better than the usual 'unexperienced' detailer products and provide a decent shine and protection for the money. I find that more popular but less useful products are mislabeled sometimes, such as "liquid clay bar" which fails to make any sense to me. A lot of professionals do still use Stoner's Invisible Glass, it's a great product that I'm glad is easily available. Diamondite is also a good company for glass and plasitcs, I've heard theyu have a little more grime cutting power than Stoner's.

Posted by: my04lincoln

I have Stoners and Diamondite and I cant tell the difference.

Posted by: PatrickSimmons

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

What kind did you buy? One of my favorite over-the-counter products from retail stores like that is Stoner's Invisible Glass. Excellent cleaning ability and tint-safe.

I have:
Eagle One Nano Wax
Eagle One Tire Detailer Brush
APF602 No More Dust Wheel Cleaner
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax Paste

Regular Windex right now for windows until I can get something better. Stoner's Invisible Glass sounds like something I will be investing in soon.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatrickSimmons

Very soon if I were you, unless you like purple window tint. As far as the wax goes, give NXT 2.0, the liquid, a try. It's pretty good for over the counter stuff.

Posted by: PatrickSimmons

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Very soon if I were you, unless you like purple window tint. As far as the wax goes, give NXT 2.0, the liquid, a try. It's pretty good for over the counter stuff.

No tint yet but once I do, would you suggest Stoner's?

Posted by: JWerner2

I think thats what he is getting at.

Do you honestly like those Eagle One products?

I never found them appealing in the least. They never made any difference at all especially when compared to other products I used from both Mothers and Maguires and you can find those on the same shelf.

Posted by: PatrickSimmons

I like the tire brush applicator and it really doesn't "sling" all over the paint like some of the other products I have used.

The instant nano wax spray has given me pretty good results. These results are nothing like the professional stuff but works pretty good for me being over the counter.

I love Mothers and Maguires but no store around here had either brand in stock. Everybody's cleaning for the summer.

Posted by: JWerner2

KD00LS, for a person that lives in a APT complex and is restricted from certain methods like the use of a buffer and just about everything else what do you recommend doing?

I can do some small things after the management is gone for the day but I sure cant use a buffer or do a good spray wash with a foam gun or power washer or even just a hose.

Have once or twice done a bucket wash with one large bucket of soap and two large buckets of plain water.

I used one plain water bucket to rinse the mitt off then dipping it in the other to rinse the car off.

For my wheels how ever since I have become obsessive over them I used a bucket of very hot soap water to wash and a large pump action high power canister type spray bottle filled with water so hot I could not stand to touch it if I would place my hand in it. I rinse them with the stream on jet and I pump it up till it wont pump anymore. Then before the water in the canister cools I twist the nozzle from jet to fine mist to get the hot water to bead, dry fast and create a spot free rinse.

This has been effective so far along with washing the body at a friends house then detailing at a park but I am wondering if you would have other suggestion for someone in my situation. And I'm sure lots of you are in the same

Posted by: KD00LS

There are some waterless wash techniques that some people use, especially in areas like Florida where there are water restriction zones. I haven't used this certain product, but I have used Citrus Wash and Gloss and love it, so this should be a good product too. I wouldn't trust any over the shelf waterless wash products, just stuff on like autogeek, detailedimage, chemical guys, or a few other low key but detailer trusted brands.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Waterles..._p/wac_100.htm

http://autogeek.net/pbsaw16.html

As far as polishing goes, you living in an apartment building I'm going to guess you'll be working in the sun. Try Poorboy's World Polishes, specifically the SSR 1 and the pre wax cleaners. They work very well in the sun unlike some polishes. Use 2, 2.5, and 3 for heavier scratches. You can work these in by hand without a buffer, it just takes longer. Are you sure you wouldn't be able to run an extension cord out?

http://autogeek.net/pbsr.html
http://autogeek.net/pbpp16.html

The most important solution to keeping a clean car in such a restricting environment is PREVENTION. After cleaning your car, invest in a wheel glaze or sealant for your wheels, then you can basically wipe the dirt off with a clean cloth. Try DP Wheel Glaze, Wheel Wax, Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant, or any paint sealant will do (use very little for ease of removal). Regular waxing and touch ups with detail spray will remove and prevent a good amount of dirt from forming on your paint.

http://autogeek.net/dp-wheel-glaze.html

http://autogeek.net/pbws.html

The waterless wash kind of scared me at first, but the lubricants encapsulate the dirt. It'll work fine unless your car is really dirty, then you should be careful. Use a bucket of warm water to rinse off the waterless wash applicator every few wipes to remove the dirt.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Posted by: JWerner2

Cool thanks. I'm at work so Ill look into those links when I get home.

As far as the wheels go, I do treat them after the wash. I'm sure Ill get sick of this routine but like I said I am pretty anal seeing on how they are new and IMO look so good. They are painted so I would take care of them just like the body goes but I get scared about just using a quick detail or just a good wipe. I don't want any scratches so I like to get any debris off before I start to wipe or rub anything into it and I just feel if I'm doing a heavy rinse I may as well just wash but as I said I'm sure I'll get sick of it.

I have thought about that Turtle wax foaming waterless wash but I cant stand the brands name. A friend used it and you still need to wipe it afterwords with a damp cloth or something cause it does end up smearing any dust or light dirt and pollen around. IMO it made it look worst till it was wiped but afterwords it did shine well but the whole wiping with a wet cloth just proved the product pointless.

Also, that Turtle Wax Ice Liquid Clay Bar is just plain out dumb! I used it on the Highlander once seeing how I thought I would get more use out of it than a clay bar being its a SUV and it sucked. It didn't do anything but leave white chalky film behind that was a pain to get off. I had to have it washed at a place where they did it for you.

Posted by: KD00LS

Automated car washes are one of the worst things you can do for your paint. I know those damn things aren't microfiber, sheepskin or sea sponge, they are filled with dirt from every car running through there, and spin at high speeds. As far as detailing wheels, especially painted in your case, they actually more than likely have a harder and thicker clear coat than on the paint of your car. You can use all the same methods. Just make sure you don't use the wrong wheel cleaner for your style wheel.

The only real alternative to a claybar is a clayblock, which is a foam applicator with a coating of rubber on one end. It is relatively new, but I know of at least one person who has tested it and followed up with a clay bar, with very little to no residue on the claybar, indicating that the clayblock probably works well. It is more cost efficient in first purchase value and lasts longer than clay, anywhere from 15-20 cars rather than 4-5 (obviously depending on the size of the bar). Both of these products either need a quick detailer or clay lube used in unison so not to mar the paint.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Bar..._block_kit.htm

Posted by: JWerner2

Right, I didn't go to a drive through wash and I stay far away from the brush of death. It was one where they did a hand wash for you. It was only 6 bucks but it got all the crap from that liquid clay bar off. The Highlander has seen its share of back roads and muddy fields so I don't hesitate to let someone else touch it but the LS barley ever sees the road lately.

I just got the Cali Gold Clay Bar the other day. Haven't used it yet but I plan on doing so after I do some more research in a few days.

I also don't use any wheel cleaner I just use the HD cleanse from Zymol like I use on my car.

Posted by: KD00LS

How do you like Zymol HD Cleanse? I know a lot of professionals use it.

Posted by: JWerner2

I love it. It does a great job at cleaning the car. If I didn't know it takes the wax off so it can help prep for a fresh coat I would swear it was a wax itself. It leaves the car looking so clean and shiny afterwords.

Zymol is a really, really good product. I did it again the other day. I put some fine scratches in my wheels from not pre-rinsing good enough and Zymol Cleaner Wax knocked 'em right out.

My friends neighbor saw me drying it off and asked me if I was using one of those wax as you dry products since the HD left it looking so smooth.

This weather is great lately but at the same it kinda sucks since I don't have any good wax and polish that I can use in this heat. I love the heat

Posted by: KD00LS

New update:
I was detailing a friend's 2000 Jeep Cherokee, hasn't been washed in years. I used degreaser, all purpose cleaner, soft brushes, mitts, tough brushes, and concentrated soap and I couldn't get the wheels clean for the life of me. It had a layer of grease that would just spread around and stick to the wheel. I decided to do some improv and remembered that I had a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, heavier duty. I used the eraser like a claybar use dipped it in higher concentrated Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss for lubrication/extra cleaning power. I was stunned to see how fast the grease/grime was coming off the wheel. A definite must buy for those guys who have painted wheels and have grime they can't remove.

Posted by: ROCKSTAR

I wash my car with photoshop,

Before:

after:

It works pretty good, i do a lot of hand brushing and blending, but if the chemistry is right it takes about 20 mins to wash it.
I never have to worry about the rain afterwards.

Posted by: JWerner2

Well, you missed a spot

Posted by: ROCKSTAR

I've contacted the guy that did that car, because he does a lot of work in my area and he's setting up an appointment to inspect my car.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROCKSTAR

I've contacted the guy that did that car, because he does a lot of work in my area and he's setting up an appointment to inspect my car.

Very nice, let us know how it turns out.

Posted by: pektel

Hey KD00LS, have you ever tried Klasse AIO along with their High gloss glaze and sealant? It seems very easy to use from what I gather, and was thinking of picking up a bottle of each.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Hey KD00LS, have you ever tried Klasse AIO along with their High gloss glaze and sealant? It seems very easy to use from what I gather, and was thinking of picking up a bottle of each.

I haven't tried Klasse All-In-One (KAIO) but I have a 16.9 fl oz bottle of Klasse Sealant Glaze (KSG) if that's what you are referring to. KSG offers a good shine and very good protection, the only downside is it can be a little difficult to buff out. One of the professionals on my detailing site told me to buff it out in combination with some good quick detailer and a microfiber damp with quick detailer and it is a lot easier. I haven't tried that process yet, but in general Klasse makes very good products. As far as KAIO goes, a lot of people love that product on my board, so I guess you can't go wrong in trying it. Klasse offers several different size bottles. KAIO is sold, on autogeek, in 10oz, 16.9oz, 33oz, and 3 liter containers. KSG is sold in 16.9oz and 33oz. Go with the smaller ones at first to see if you'll like them. KAIO also has sealant properties, but I'm not sure if they are as strong as KSG. KAIO seems like a mix between a pre-wax cleaner and a moderate polish.

Another good sealant that is on sale today on detailedimage.com, which runs a 30-50% off special on one product every day. (Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket if you look at it at the wrong time).
http://www.detailedimage.com/

KSG Reviews...
http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...ant-glaze.html

KAIO Reviews...
http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...5-all-one.html

Either can be applied by hand or machine, obviously faster with the machine.

Posted by: pektel

Well, as you know, I dont' have a machine yet. The smaller bottles on autogeek seemed pretty reasonable. Right now all I have is meg's claybar (too fine for my taste. Doesn't really pull enough.) meg's cleaner wax (red bottle, junk) and Ice (again, junk). I'm going to get a different fine clay, the Klasse AIO, and the Sealant glaze. You think that will be enough? I don't want to get into the Souveran wax until I get a 7424.

Posted by: pektel

Or do you think the Menzerna is a superior product to the 2 klasse products? I'd proabably need the Klasse AIO in both cases, right?

Posted by: KD00LS

Menzerna offers probably one of the best polishes out there, but I don't think they offer an AIO product like that. They have aggressive clay if you snoop around, I think Meguiar's Professional Line has Mild and Aggressive styles. I'd do KAIO because Menzerna is quite expensive and you'll need a few bottles. As with detailing, you wanna start with the least aggresive method, to the paint and to your wallet.

Posted by: pektel

Most definitely. But I figure why waste the money on an inferior product, if i'll end up buying menzerna anyways if it's that much better? I think I'll just go with the Klasse stuff for now. Thanks!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Most definitely. But I figure why waste the money on an inferior product, if i'll end up buying menzerna anyways if it's that much better? I think I'll just go with the Klasse stuff for now. Thanks!

I'd hardly call KAIO an inferior product to anything, it's all preference and what you hope to attain when using it.

Posted by: pektel

Oh, i wasn't implying that it was. I've never used it, so I'm shooting from the hip when it comes to selecting products. It was a hypothetical "if". Thanks for the info!

Posted by: KD00LS

J, besides the Zymol HD Cleanse, what other Zymol Products are you using?

Posted by: JWerner2

I use the Leather cleaner/conditioner, the cleaner wax, cream wax and some different app pads and cloths.

I think I only used the cream once.

Posted by: KD00LS

Just wanted to do a little update on Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. I had used this wax with a PC7424 about a month and a week ago and I am still getting a great shine and water beadage on all panels. I'm in a pretty harsh environment, down the shore with all the salt air and the high heat and UV index. I really like this wax, offers a good shine and is very durable. I'd definitely recommend it to the less than motivated group who want to protect their car. About 15 bucks a container and it'll probably do about 10-15 cars if you spread it thin like you are supposed to.

BTW, start asking some more questions.

Posted by: JWerner2

I finally used the Stoner's and I am not satisfied at all. I don't know, maybe its just me but it didn't clean that much and left some gnarly streaks which caused me to use up most of the can and a few class cloths. It is also supposed to be safe for tint but it tore it up. I will take pics for the disbelievers but it took the outer most film off and it flaked in these sparkle particles and that was another story. Sh1t was a b*tch getting it off my interior! I got less than a half of a can, still have dirty windows ( in which weren't that dirty to begin with, just enough to want to clean ) and now I have to just get the tint redone the entire way around rather then just the rear.

Might I add that this was not just a fluke with my car but it did it to my Highlander as well. Oh and I was in the shade, we actually thought it would be nice to go out and wash both vehicles so the cars were cooled off and were still in the wash bay at the car wash.

Posted by: KD00LS

That is a very, very strange turn of events. I've never heard of such a thing happening from using Stoner's. What type of cloth were you using and how much product did you spray on each window? I'd also question the quality of the tint. Possibly try Diamondite Glass Cleaner, it is supposed to leave less streaks and has more cutting power.

Posted by: KD00LS

Here is the link to all of the glass and plastic products that Diamondite offers.
http://www.autogeek.net/diglclsy.html

Posted by: pektel

Weird. Stoner's always works well for me. Recently, I started getting some streaking, but the can sat in an unheated garage all winter. Maybe that affected the contents.

Did the same place do the tint job on your LS and Highlander?

Posted by: JWerner2

Its very weird, I thought at first that it was just the old tint but as I said the Highlander had the same problem. The LS had the tint on when it was purchased along with the Magnaflows and the Highlander had the tint added the same day we picked it up and as I said it happened to both vehicles.

I use the glass cleaning cloths from Black Magic and I have been using those same types for ever. Its the same as the ones we would use for sunglasses or eyeglasses so I wouldn't blame those.

I am taking into consideration that I just got a bad formula or something. I would call stoner's but all they would do is just replace the can.

The good thing is that knowing it was possibly the cleaner I only used it on a small very unnoticeable spot on the Highlander.

Posted by: pektel

As far as the cloth used, I always use coffee filters. It seems that I get a lot less streaks. Just FYI for anyone who hasn't tried them.

Posted by: KD00LS

Another old detailer's trick is to use newspaper to clean the windows, obviously with a glass cleaner included. If you can find newsprint without ink on it it might be better, but I've used regular newspaper with good success. I use a microfiber now and try to limit the amount of product I use to prevent streaking. Just like wax and all that other stuff, you need to buff it out to prevent streaking. If you have trouble getting in the tight areas, I bought one of those telescopic glass cleaner tools with a handle.

http://autogeek.net/glass-cleaning-kit.html

Posted by: pektel

I was aware of the newspaper trick. Tried it, but the coffee filters actually work better for me. I normally follow up with a microfiber to get rid of any streaks. I would like to try the diamondite stuff, since you mentioned it might be better with the grime cutting power.

I bought a little shower sqweegee from walmart for under 2 bucks. It was right next to the mops/brooms. I wrap the microfiber over the sqweegee edge, and get to work. That's what I use to access the lower edge of the windshield/back glass.

Posted by: JWerner2

I use the microfiber on occasion when I have no clean glass cloths.

Those work great also, I just fold it up a few times to a square and go across. Then I flip it over and do the same and if the water isn't all picked up by that time I unfold it, fold it back the opposite way, and go at it again. Microfibers do work good on glass.

Posted by: JWerner2

KD00LS, do you know anything about applying tint?

I think I may give it a shot. I have been reading and reading and wtaching videeos left and right and it dont look that bad.

I know this is probably a dumb question, but how do any of you guys feel about that pre-cut stuff?

Posted by: KD00LS

I'd be afraid to see how it would turn out if I did my own tint. I think you should find a shop with a warranty on the life of the tint instead. You get what you pay for in the end.

But if you do decide to do it....

Clean the window
Claybar the window
Use a finishing glass polish
Clean the window with rubbing alcohol.

I think you want the surface of the window to be as flat as possible so bubbles don't form.

Don't quote me 100% on this.

Posted by: JWerner2

I think I can do it. I just think the rear is going to get me but the rest don't look so hard as long as I take my time.

Posted by: KD00LS

Learned something new today. Supposedly static electricity is one of the main reason thats dirt and dust settle on cars. I knew static electricity could build up after driving a vehicle, anyone with metal doorhandles knows this, but I didn't know it had to do with dirt. This turned me on to research and to new products. I found a quick detailer that can be layered as normal wax is, and provides great shine and anti-static characteristics. The company is called Finish Kare, new to me. Apparently their finishing polishing have been tested and are very good, can't say the same for the rest of the stuff. The quick detailer I am suggesting is #425 Ultra Slick Poly Wipe Spray Detailer - Anti-Static under the Express Detail section. #146 Finish Restorer Poly Wipe Spray Detailer - Anti-Static is also a good product, but it has less gloss than the #425.

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-professional.htm

Posted by: JWerner2

Yeah static helps allot of pollen and dust settle.

BTW, I got bored and took off the tint today. Man did that suck!

I really think I am going to get a kit and give it a shot. Those that do it regularly had to get a start somehow.

Posted by: KD00LS

Absolutely man. What is the worst that can possibly happen? You might as well give it a shot. Maybe I'd practice on some cheap tint beforehand.

Posted by: KD00LS

I just ordered a gallon of the #425 and some Chemical Guys Gatorskin Nitrile gloves. I'll be doing a carwash and review with both of these whenever I get them in the mail. I'll also do a test of the Diamondite Glass Cleaner for those interested.

Posted by: pektel

links to products? the only thing I could find on autogeek when I search 425 is meg's degreaser.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

links to products? the only thing I could find on autogeek when I search 425 is meg's degreaser.

Follow the left side of the table down to find the quick reference #'s. Site is a little less than beautiful, but its about the products.

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-professional.htm

Posted by: KD00LS

J, this is for you again. I've been researching and have found another glass cleaner that a lot of detailing enthusiasts swear by. The brand is Surf City Garage, and they were just recently picked up by Autogeek. If you order off of the Surf City Garage website, you get free shipping on your products. A refill bottle of their glass cleaner is 12.99 and consists of 2 liters, which is a pretty damn good deal if you ask me.

http://www.surfcitygarage.com/detail1.php?product_id=50

I've also read that their Road Trip Grime Destroyer and Beyond Black Tire Pro are great products. I've yet to try any of these out, but when my Armor All stash runs out I'm sure to pick up the tire dressing.

BBTP- http://www.surfcitygarage.com/detail1.php?product_id=5

RTGD- http://www.surfcitygarage.com/detail1.php?product_id=56

Their Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax is supposedly very similar to Poorboy's World Natty's paste wax, but it is in liquid form. I haven't even gotten a chance to try my Natty's out yet. It's very good and very bad that my car doesn't get dirty that often. I'd like to test some products out.

Posted by: JWerner2

Thanks KD. Ill look into that stuff.

On terms of the Stoner's: I have a glass desk at home that gets messy pretty quick, things are pretty fast paced around my apartment and I clean the damn place everyday. I gave the Stoner's a shot on my desk and it did the same thing. It just left a smudged streaky mess and fine dirt was smeared around. I know its a bad can or something cause I also used a fresh microfiber straight out of a brand new pack. I wiped it with a wet towel then went over it with a dry microfiber again a fresh one and that worked perfectly.

Oh well, the Stoner's is cheap enough not to feel all that ripped off. I think I am going to try it out again sooner or later seeing on how it just had to be bad luck.

I have a question on something on a new topic. Whats the best way to clean the engine bay up and make it look nice for pictures?

I gave the brake cleaner a shot but it did nothing. Well nothing much anyway.

Posted by: pektel

Coincidentally, I just did this. Took about 10 minutes. 120K on the clock, and this is the FIRST time the bay has been detailed. I just cleaned where I could with 4:1 diluted simple green. Then I covered the bay in Armor All Tire Foam. Then I started the engine, closed the hood, and went for a short drive. Here's the result. The second pic is after 4 days:

Posted by: KD00LS

Here's a quick write up. You basically need a degreaser and some sort of plastic protectant. Safety is a must as well.

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...one-today.html

Posted by: NYC LS8

Ok, time to show off my car in here.

Finally had a chance to wash the car myself for the first time in years at the woman's place. I used Turtle Wax Ice soap and a chamois (the one that comes in the plastic tube..forget the name), Meguiar's wheel cleaner spray (crap!), some microfiber towels and wash mitts (one for the car, one for the wheels)...nothing crazy. It's been two days since I've washed it on Saturday and the car still isn't dusty, compared to it being dusty after having to have it done at a local car wash.

I wound up grabbing a Meguiar's clay bar 'kit' on Sunday and have the Zymol cleaner wax here. If the weather holds up, I'll be doing that this coming weekend.

Also did the newspaper trick for the first time in my 18 years of driving. I used 'non-streaky' Glass Plus with paper towels at first, and during the day the windshield looked fine. Completely different story at night....streak city! Keep in mind that I smoke, so the windshield takes some abuse, but the newspaper works awesome!

Posted by: KD00LS

Car looks real good man. The more and more I hear about it, the less and less than Zymol stuff looks appealing. Most pro/amateur detailers say that stuff is way below par, even for the money. I think it's just the name selling itself.

A few alternative waxes for around that price...
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
S100 Motorcycle Wax (Same formula as the P21S car wax, half the price)
Poorboy's Natty Paste Wax

Also, if you smoke in the car, look for Diamondite Glass Cleaner.

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Most pro/amateur detailers say that stuff is way below par, even for the money.

I hear the complete opposite. I used a ton of the typical stuff sold in most stores and Ill tell you I never seen anything as good as the Zymol. Sure those ones that you explain may be just as good but my point is that the Zymol is easily accessible.

Posted by: rickztahone

hey JWerner2 i wouldn't recommend doing the tint yourself if you haven't done it as is. i've done some tints prior to the LS and i did a clean job but the back windshield is a PITA. i always start with that due to the fact that it's the most difficult. if you can't get that one then i suggest you don't do it. or an alternate thing to do is doing your other windows yourself and let a pro do the back and you save some money still. also, if you do decide to do the second option, make sure you take the tint that your going to use on the rest of the car. different tints have different finishes

Posted by: JWerner2

I'm giving it a shot regardless. If I mess it up oh well Ill do it again. I want to get into some of these things anyway and like I said everyone had to start somewhere. Not everyone got away Scot free on the first shot. At this point its not even about money. I had to replace the rear anyway and seeing on how the tint is a bit aged and also knowing what you said about different shades of tint being true I would have gone and have had the entire car done anyway.

Thanks for the concern though Rick.

Posted by: NYC LS8

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Car looks real good man. The more and more I hear about it, the less and less than Zymol stuff looks appealing. Most pro/amateur detailers say that stuff is way below par, even for the money. I think it's just the name selling itself.

A few alternative waxes for around that price...
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
S100 Motorcycle Wax (Same formula as the P21S car wax, half the price)
Poorboy's Natty Paste Wax

Also, if you smoke in the car, look for Diamondite Glass Cleaner.

Thanks. Like I said, nothing crazy. I'll try that Zymol stuff and see how it comes out. If it sucks, I can always try something else. I know that my old man used to use that stuff on his then new 96 Town Car, so we'll see if the stuff still works good or not.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

Zymol Cleaner wax has a mild abrasive in it, which is why it makes your car shinier. Of course it's better than most of the over the counter stuff because most of it sucks.

Posted by: JWerner2

The cleaner wax is by far the tip of the iceberg. People compare Zymol to Zanio. I know of people that used Zanio exclusively and then gave the rest of the Zymol line a shot and never went back.

People that use both products think its great. The rest of the Zymol line is a favorite among high end enthusiasts as well from what I have been reading.

As I said before my point is that this is the best that you can get within a arms reach if you don't feel like ordering stuff.

I'm sure I will get around to ordering the stuff you mentioned and I may end up with a new favorite but for now Zymol catches my eyes. I may try some other stuff from them soon but I am also contemplating the use of some of the products you have mentioned.

I gave the P21S a shot a while back and man I loved that stuff more but it is not as easy to find and is expensive.

Posted by: KD00LS

Zymol in general is the tip of the iceberg, I'll agree with you on that. But the cleaner wax is garbage compared to the rest of their lineup. I'll ask some of my guys on the other site what their opinion is on it.

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

But the cleaner wax is garbage compared to the rest of their lineup.

Exactly.

And seeing that the cleaner wax is pretty damn good I could only imagine what the rest of the stuff would do.

I want to join that forum, but I feel I should at least own a buffer first

I did the mist like it says to after shrugging it off for a few applications and it did improve the look allot!

I was just amazed how it is a product on the shelf that does actually take those fine swirls and scratches out and not just say it does like the rest of the stuff on the shelf.

Posted by: KD00LS

Maybe if I feel generous I'll send you some Collinite 845 and we'll see who is better.

Posted by: JWerner2

Sure, once I need a new coat. But that might be a while...

j/k!

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWerner2

Sure, once I need a new coat. But that might be a while...

j/k!

Hahaha ok, let me know you address and I'll show you what's up. Rock money.

Posted by: my04lincoln

For the price of the Collinite 845 this stuff is very nice! A little goes a long ways. If you have a Harbor Freight near by they sell the 845.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by my04lincoln

For the price of the Collinite 845 this stuff is very nice! A little goes a long ways. If you have a Harbor Freight near by they sell the 845.

They sell collinite down at the marina about a minute walk from my shorehouse. They sell everything but 845 Insulator Wax. I was very depressed when I found this out.

Posted by: HDDave

I don't know if this would be considered off topic or not, but what do you guys use to give your chrome wheels (if you have chrome) a quick wipe down between washes? I have been using glass cleaner but I'm not sure if that might be bad for the chrome?

Posted by: JWerner2

This is a thread for general detailing HDDave. I'm sure KD will welcome your question.

I used to do the same with my stockers. I would then do a quick follow up with a quick detail. I'm sure KD will have something better in mind though.

Posted by: KD00LS

HDDave, I think you answered it yourself when you said quick. If you want to use something easy between washes then use a Quick Detailer. There are many brands out there, and you're going to want to use a good one if you plan on using it to encapsulate and remove dirt. The best form of QD is something called a waterless wash system. I believe we brushed up on it somewhere along the line, but you are going to want to pick that up if you just want to wipe the wheels down.

Look at...
Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (Spray and Gloss could also be used, but is not as good)
Chemical Guys One Waterless Car Wash
Optimum No Rinse
Finish Kare 425 (if the car isn't too dirty, this is just a QD)

The main goal of these quick detailers is to encapsulate the dirt and surface contamination so it does not mar the paint, and it can be whisked off the surface. When using these products, do not scrub, it is more of a dragging motion.

Another important aspect of quick detailing is the prevention beforehand. This will also help prevent marring and it will also make it a lot easier (I mean ALOT) to remove dirt and contamination. You might want to coat your wheels after a thorough wash with a wheel or paint sealant. Regular car wax will not hold up to the temperature of the brakes and wheels. Look at...

DP Wheel Glaze
Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant
Wheel Wax
Regular Paint Sealant (Klasse, Zaino, Chemical Guys: You tend to want to use the cheaper and longer lasting types because of the cost and because it's just your wheels and not your paint and they get dirtier faster with harsher contaminants)

Hope this helps.

Posted by: KD00LS

Oh yea....

DO NOT USE GLASS CLEANER!

Posted by: JWerner2

Whats the outcome of using glass cleaner on chrome?

I always thought chrome could hold up to it as long as its not a harsh type of cleaner.

Posted by: KD00LS

If I remember correctly, chrome is very sensitive to the types of cleaners and polishes you use on it. Anything not formulated for chrome can potentially make it lift and discolor. I can't say for sure that glass cleaner would do this, but is it worth the chance? Plus, with the waterless wash you'll be using a better product anyway.

Posted by: HDDave

Cool - thanks for the info.

I figured the glass cleaner wasn't very good for it but I hadn't seen any quick detailers specifically for wheels/chrome. Looks like I'll be buying MORE products

Posted by: NYC LS8

Just ordered this stuff for the wheels. Thanks for the heads up, KD.

http://www.wheelwax.com/

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYC LS8

Just ordered this stuff for the wheels. Thanks for the heads up, KD.

http://www.wheelwax.com/

Ah I wish you woulda asked first. I think the DP and Poorboy's is a little better. Either way, you'll be satisfied with that stuff. It helps so much. If it comes in like a cream/jelly substance, make sure you barely use any. I mean BARELY. If it's anything like DP Wheel Glaze you barely have to apply any for great protection, plus it's a bitch to take off if you put too much on.

Posted by: NYC LS8

Yeah, that's ok. Figured I'd give it a try to see how it does. Anything has to be better than what's on there now (aside from massive brake dust from the EBC pads)......nothing!

Posted by: KD00LS

Yikes... Make sure to clay the wheels with an aggressive clay before application. Polish too if you have it.

Posted by: NYC LS8

LOL...they're not THAT bad. I mean, I did wash the car last weekend. It's just that these EBC pads kick out a lot of dust.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYC LS8

LOL...they're not THAT bad. I mean, I did wash the car last weekend. It's just that these EBC pads kick out a lot of dust.

That's not what I mean. If you have contaminants under the layer of sealant they can slowly eat away at the finish and also affect the longevity and performance of the wheel sealant. Leveling the clear coat/finish and prepping it properly also helps longevity, and obviously it will shine more.

http://www.fk1usa.com/testimonials/C...rch%202003.pdf

But if you still think you're ok, you go ahead and do that

Posted by: NYC LS8

I understand that, ya douche nozzle.

They'll be cleaned before they're waxed. What I'm getting at is these brake pads create a lot of dust compared to the stockers, which makes my wheels look black chrome instead of chrome. I'm curious to see how much easier it'll be to clean them after they're waxed.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYC LS8

I understand that, ya douche nozzle.

Haha ok, you'll be impressed I think. I've never used Wheel Wax though.

Posted by: ToddG

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

If I remember correctly, chrome is very sensitive to the types of cleaners and polishes you use on it. Anything not formulated for chrome can potentially make it lift and discolor. I can't say for sure that glass cleaner would do this, but is it worth the chance? Plus, with the waterless wash you'll be using a better product anyway.

Actually, chrome in general, and in particular the chrome on a car wheel, is quite resistant to most chemicals. It is certainly resistant to all the glass cleaners I'm aware of.

Consider this: Wheel cleaners that are formulated specifically for chrome often have a label that says they should not be used on other types of wheel finishes, such as painted wheels. Why is that? Well, its because these chrome wheel cleaners contain acid, which do a great job of removing wheel grime and brake dust, but do not harm the chrome finish. And, of course, the acid in a chrome wheel cleaner can cause damage to painted surfaces.

Glass cleaners, on the other hand, do not contain any acid. Many of the newer formulations, such as Stoners, use alcohols which are great for cleaning glass since the alcohols evaporate quite quickly and leave no streaks. Speaking as a chemist, those alcohols will not harm a chrome finish at all. At worst, some glass cleaners contain ammonia (e.g., Windex, etc.), but even Windex says it is safe on chrome:

Quote:

Thanks to its key ingredient, Ammonia-D ®, Windex ® Original works great for fast and easy cleaning of tough dirt and grime. Use it on glass, mirrors, chrome, plastic, stainless steel, and other surfaces in your kitchen, living room, patio, bedroom, bathroom, and car — everywhere you want a streak-free shine!

Using a glass cleaner to shine up a wheel (after its been washed of course) is just fine!

Posted by: KD00LS

Good info Todd. I guess I didn't wanna take a chance with it. I figure what's formulated for what is best for it or else it wouldn't be mixed like that. Good info, I wish I made it past freshman year chemistry major so I could have some more input. Even so, I wanted to aim more towards prevention with my post. Thanks again.

Posted by: HDDave

Well I went ahead and ordered some PoorBoys Wheel Sealant as well as Spray & Wipe Waterless and a few other things from AutoGeek so I should be safe from now on when I clean my wheels...

But thanks ToddG at least now I don't feel like I did any real damage to my wheels from the glass cleaner. That was my main concern for posting here.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread!

Posted by: KD00LS

Make sure to post some pics and let us know how the products worked out for you.

Posted by: gixxerboi

any good tips on cleaning my seatbelt? it is suppose to be tan but when i bought the car 2 years ago the driver side one is closer to black.any products i can find at a local autozone or something?

Posted by: pektel

yep. here's a link for ya:

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...ap-soiled.html

Posted by: gixxerboi

thanks for the link. wish me luck on this one.

Posted by: KD00LS

Post pictures if you can...

Update, camera is dead but I will be posting pictures soon. Just used the FK425 quick detailer on my car and I'm very impressed. It accentuates the curves and bodylines of my car like I couldn't believe. People have compared it to a Zaino-type depth and shine, but obviously it is just a quick detailer and won't last nearly as long. I'll post some pictures as soon as I can. First impressions, I'd recommend it.

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROCKSTAR

I've contacted the guy that did that car, because he does a lot of work in my area and he's setting up an appointment to inspect my car.

... Were you the one that just had the one step polish done? I'm dying to see some pictures.

Posted by: gixxerboi

well i finally got around to detailing the whole car. yesterday was the interior today the exterior. 3 hours in to it after the clay bar and 1st coat of wax it starts to sprinkle on me

well as soon as it stops im gonna put the polish on and snap some pics. im using the new mothers power ball for paint ant so far i like it. i used mothers clay bar and the new syn wax. im normally a fan of meguires but figured id try something new. i also tried eagle one nano-protectant its a cleaner and protectant in one but i only used it for the protectant. i liked it because it left it all feeling natural not slimy or sticky. for a degreaser i used la's totally awsome cleaner and degreaser. very impressed. well ill post some pics later on today.

Posted by: gixxerboi

p.s. i used that link and the way they suggested didnt quite work for me on the seatbelts. any other suggestions?

Posted by: gixxerboi

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/sho...168#post404168
pics of detail

Posted by: KD00LS

Possibly hire a professional to use a carpet extractor.

Posted by: KD00LS

Update:

I think some of you were aware of the foam gun that I had, I did a writeup on it before. I have a new project, and I'm moving my way up to a foam cannon. It's essentially the same thing, but it's attached to a power washer. I'm importing the stuff from Italy. It covers the car in a shaving cream thick layer of soap and it sticks there until you want it off. I'll keep you posted.

Posted by: pektel

So... how much are you selling me your foam gun for?

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

So... how much are you selling me your foam gun for?

Ahhh already gave it away to my good friend. Sorry man. Your package should be in tomorrow according to the tracking number.

Posted by: my04lincoln

I'm using this foam gun and power washer!
http://www.everypressurewasher.com/C...0-CAM1243.html
http://johndeere.com/en_US/parts/hom.../lp020298.html

Posted by: KD00LS

A lot of the guys on detailing bliss are using that. I know you are one of them, don't try and hide...

Posted by: JWerner2

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

Update:

I think some of you were aware of the foam gun that I had, I did a writeup on it before. I have a new project, and I'm moving my way up to a foam cannon. It's essentially the same thing, but it's attached to a power washer. I'm importing the stuff from Italy. It covers the car in a shaving cream thick layer of soap and it sticks there until you want it off. I'll keep you posted.

I gotta see this.

Posted by: pektel

JWerner- here's a link to a foam cannon demo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phR_nyDwxvQ

Posted by: KD00LS

Heads up: Anyone looking for a wheel sealant, DetailedImage.com has a month long sale on Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. A lot of the pro detailers love this stuff.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...l-Sealant-P40/

For $12, you can't beat it.

NYC, any updates or pics on your wheelwax purchase?

Posted by: KD00LS

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=166653

Here's a link to a 1000 mile test using Klasse Sealant Glaze topped with PBW Wheel Sealant. Pictures show one wheel after a blast of water and one with wheel cleaner. The difference between the two are very minor. Seems to be some serious stuff.

Posted by: 02LincLS

I have some very minor scratches that look like spider webs sitting on the car, you can only see them from certain angles at sunset. I got the eagle one nano wax (not the spray version) with the microfiber cloth since it worked so well at removing water drop stains on black trim pieces between the front and back door windows. It left a deep black without an over-the-top amount of gloss. Will the nano wax restore the rest of the car this way?

I have typically used wax as you dry as a "hold over" between washes but it needs to be waxed for real now. What do I need to prep the car? The paint is clean with no tar or sap etc; is polish enough to clean the paint, or do I need to claybar first?

I see from the earlier posts that a Menzerna polish and a Collinite 845 wax would be a very good way to go, but I'd like to use the nano wax since I have it already and the other stuff is expensive.

Oh almost forgot, what should I use on the headlights since I heard there was an issue with Stoner's back a couple pages. They are a little dingy/ oxidized but clean up pretty well right after the wash. I've polished plastic lenses in the past, but then kept having to do it more and more frequently as if I took some coating off of it.

Posted by: pektel

I think diamondite sells a headlight restoration kit that includes a plastic sealant. I'm not sure if a regular sealant would work on them, but Kyle might know.

As for minor scratches and spiderwebbing, you might need something with more cut than what you can get OTC, depending on the severity of the scratches. Also, you might consider getting a DA polisher to save you some energy and to get more consistent results.

Make sure you remove all protection (wax, sealant, etc.) and CLAYBAR (yes, this step is CRITICAL) before trying to remove swirls, or you'll just add more swirls to the ones you already have. Here's the order:

1) Proper wash and dry (maybe with Dawn to remove all protection already on the paint)

2) Claybar. You NEED to do this to remove potential swirl makers still stuck on the paint. More often you won't see them, but you can feel them by putting your hand in a plastic bag, and lightly running your fingertips over the paint.

3) Application of polishes. This is where you remove a micro thin layer of clear coat to even it out, and remove scratches. Depending on the polish, you might need to follow up with a finishing polish to remove micromarring/hazing created by a heavier cut polish.

4) Glaze. This is really the only optional step. It masks any of the imperfections left by filling them in.

5) Sealant.

6) Wax.

Posted by: 02LincLS

Do you have any experience with the nano wax? I don't expect it to be the best, but if it lasts a while, I'm happy.

What over the counter brands of polish, glaze and sealant do you recommend?

What glaze and sealant would you recommend if I went with the Menzerna polish and Collinite 845 wax?

Posted by: pektel

Menzerna Ceramic Clear Coat Polish 106FF is what I just ordered. I'm using Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover 3, then the Menzerna 106FF. I'm not going to use a glaze, although Chemical Guys' EZ Creme Glaze was recommended to me. For Sealant, I'm going to use Poorboy's EX-P. On top of that, I'm goin to use Natty's red Paste Wax.

Posted by: 02LincLS

Thanks for the input. I dont have swirls thankfully. I'm cursed with being a perfectionist and a normal person wouldnt even notice the lines I'm talking about. Silver is good at hiding stuff.

Posted by: KD00LS

I used the Wolfgang Headlight Restoration kit. It came with a plastic sealant to help maintain clarity.

Posted by: ROCKSTAR

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD00LS

... Were you the one that just had the one step polish done? I'm dying to see some pictures.

Yep, i just got it done last week I finally uploaded pictures.

these are just a couple favorites of mine:

[befores]

[afters]

[Engine detail]

there are some more pictures in after the link, and pictures of the OTHER car he did the SAME DAY.
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1.../Car%20Detail/

Posted by: lseguy

Quick tip. Most spider scratches occur during drying. I used a california water blade EXCLUSIVELY for drying and go horozintally on the hood, roof, and trunk. Verticalls on doors, fenders, quarter panels. it's whatever for the bumper covers. For any nooks I've missed? I use the Absorber. This prevents me from getting 95% of scratches/spiderwebs, etc..in the first place.

From that point forward? I simply claybar once per year, then Meguairs wax. Boom. Oh..it is garaged day and night, so that helps. 5.5 years and 100k miles later, she's STILL shining like new

Posted by: KD00LS

Car looks great Rockstar. I'm in the process of getting that foam cannon, I can't wait.

Posted by: ROCKSTAR

[quote=lseguy;405727]Quick tip. Most spider scratches occur during drying. I used a california water blade EXCLUSIVELY for drying and go horozintally on the hood, roof, and trunk. Verticalls on doors, fenders, quarter panels. it's whatever for the bumper covers. For any nooks I've missed? I use the Absorber. This prevents me from getting 95% of scratches/spiderwebs, etc..in the first place.

well, it was obvious that the owner before me was a woman because the interior is spotless... you could eat off the floors if i'd let you eat in it.

However... the clear coat was beat to

it looked like someone washed my car with a S.O.S, pad luckily it was all Clear coat damage and EASILY fixed. Deep Gloss really did a great job. The guy that did my car recommended a "Waffle Weave" pattern towel to dry the car because its clear coat safe and if there are ANY particles left they get trapped in the waffles preventing them from rubbing the clear coat.

Posted by: KD00LS

I use a Jelly Blade in combination with quick detailer for lubrication and make sure the surface is contaminant free so not to marr the paint. I use a Cobra Waffle Weave towel, heavy duty. Awesome product, insane absorbancy. I'd definately recommend it.

Posted by: KD00LS

Here is the official thread with the correction pictures. Hopefully it will persuade a couple of you on the fence about it.

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...e-stratus.html

Posted by: ROCKSTAR

Yea, I plan on getting a stage two, and a leather package next year i was very pleased... hopefully he gets his shirts made soon because i definitely want one.

Posted by: pektel

Look at what came Fedex yesterday:

Posted by: KD00LS

Very nice, I'm jealous. Did you get a chance to try any of my stuff out?

Posted by: pektel

I was waiting for the pads. I had the 7424 for a few days now, but no pads to use it with. I have used the CG CWG and FK425. AMAZING the difference from the gold class wash and QD I was using before. I'm sold on both of those products. I think I'm going to try the natty's paste before I use the colinite 845, for the simple reason you gave that I'd have to wait too long to try another product

Thanks again,man! I'll be pm'ing you when I get ready to use the Klasse SG, since I hear it's kind of finicky.

Posted by: pektel

Oh, and I had a question for you too about the natty's red paste. When I got it, it was cracked into probably 6 or 7 pieces. Since I plan on applying it by machine, I need it in one piece to remove it to apply it to the LC pad. Will heating/melting it compromise the wax? That's the only way I can think of to re-solidify it.

Posted by: pektel

And from what site did you get the 425?

Posted by: KD00LS

Are the pieces too small to rub on the surface of the pad? I had the same problem, I just rubbed the smaller pieces into the pad. I got the 425 from fk1usa.com. Go to the detail section of the products tab and you can find it in gallon sized for ~$28 with a 4.99 flat rate for shipping. Sorry for taking so long to respond, I was down in Atlantic City destroying my bank account.

Posted by: pektel

Black jack tables? or T*tty bars?

Posted by: KD00LS

Quote:

Originally Posted by pektel

Black jack tables? or T*tty bars?

I played let it ride. Got 1 pair in 27 hands. The only game I'll ever play at a casino again is poker. Too many strange incidents.

Posted by: KD00LS

I believe I am placing the order for the foam cannon tomorrow. I can't wait for the writeup, stay tuned ladies and gents...

Posted by: KD00LS

Cannon is coming this tuesday. I'll be making a little writeup with the soaps and equipment that I have purchased. Also, I've been turned on to a wax by Collinite that has competed with, and triumphed over, ridiculously expensive waxes, all for 30 bucks. Here is the link to the test. (56k pic heavy) http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...ead.php?t=4778

It is called Collinite Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax #915.