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Pages: 1

How to prevent brakes from binding?

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Posted by: neo4you

I have a 2000 Lincoln LS w/150K miles. For some reason, rear right wheel brakes are binding - they are ''always on''. I actually had to replace the whole rear right caliper assembly just a few months ago. And now it's happening again. Any way I can fix it?



Posted by: owlman

Maybe it's your brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally. Happened to me once (but on a 30 year old car).



Posted by: 97stscaddy

How often do you use your parking brake? (E brake)



Posted by: SoonerLS

The caliper guide/slide pins are often the cause of binding, but if you've replaced the caliper assembly, that's probably not the problem (unless you or your installer didn't lube them before installation or the boots that protect them are damaged). As these other guys are suggesting, I'd be looking for a kinked/collapsed brake line or a kinked/rusted/frozen parking brake cable.



Posted by: neo4you

I don't use the parking brake at all. When I replaced the caliper, the parking cable looked OK. I did put some lube on caliper pins, but maybe I should take it off and re-lube them just to make sure.
What are the symptoms of a kinked/collapsed brake line? How can I tell if my brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally? I mean, the fluid should be able to depress the piston, but won't allow to retract.
Also, one more thing I forgot to mention. When I replaced the caliper, the inner pad was totally worn out (in fact, some of the hardened backing seemed to be scratched off), but the outer pad was half-decent. So maybe it is lack of lube on the pins...



Posted by: owlman

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo4you View Post
What are the symptoms of a kinked/collapsed brake line? How can I tell if my brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally? I mean, the fluid should be able to depress the piston, but won't allow to retract.
Next time it locks up, loosen the bleed screw on that brake (be prepared for hot fluid squirting out). If the brake releases, it's probably the flex hose. If it stays stuck, it's probably the caliper.



Posted by: Garbone

Something that happened to my truck(ford)...more likely that way from the factory...was the bracket was either bent, or miss machined. Didnt matter how much lube I put on the pins, the caliper stuck, and wore out the pads at an angle. had to replace the complete spindle.



Posted by: neo4you

OK, so I looked at it today. First off, the caliper and bracket are covered with some rusted brake dust. The pads are half worn, but the wear on inner and outer pads seems to be even. I relubed the pins and pads' backings. When I hit and release the brakes , the caliper would still not let go and it's almost impossible to turn the wheel.
I did loosen the bleed screw, and it didn't help the problem at all. In fact, it made it much worse. I took the car for a little drive around my development, never accelerating past 25. Now I have to like double pump the brakes to even feel any resistance in brake pedal. The first pump I can floor it, and the car just keeps on going. Only on the second one it stops, but still not very reassuring.
Should I bleed the system?



Posted by: cammerfe

Yes. It sounds like a hydraulic problem.

KenS from Ben's Place



Posted by: neo4you

OK, so I finally got around to replace the brake hose, and nothing's changed. After a 20 minute drive the front brakes are hot, the rear right one is impossible to touch, and the rear left one is barely warm.
Per owlman's post, it's most likely the caliper, but it was replaced like 4-5 months ago. Could it be defective from the get-go?
Or maybe it's the left rear that's causing the problem? On the other hand, the rear brakes are supposed to be colder than the front ones anyway.
Could the wheel be out of alignment? About 3 years ago, I think I had to replace the wheel bearings on the right rear wheel. Is it possible that it somehow started this problem?



Posted by: milehighmikey

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo4you View Post
OK, so I finally got around to replace the brake hose, and nothing's changed. After a 20 minute drive the front brakes are hot, the rear right one is impossible to touch, and the rear left one is barely warm.
Per owlman's post, it's most likely the caliper, but it was replaced like 4-5 months ago. Could it be defective from the get-go?
Or maybe it's the left rear that's causing the problem? On the other hand, the rear brakes are supposed to be colder than the front ones anyway.
Could the wheel be out of alignment? About 3 years ago, I think I had to replace the wheel bearings on the right rear wheel. Is it possible that it somehow started this problem?
This sounds like a crap rebuild on the caliper, nothing more. Replace that caliper soon.

Also, I would recommend that you use your parking brake regularly. It keeps things moving that need to stay moving. Not using the parking brake can lead to failure from lack of use in this type of caliper system. If possible, try a different company for that caliper. I've bought two of the rears over the past 3 years and have yet to have a problem, but on my old Peugeot Mi16, I had terrible luck with the rear calipers from rebuilders, and it was the same style as the LS uses with the lever-actuated parking brake.



Posted by: 97stscaddy

What he said. ^

Friend of mine just bought a taurtoise that had the same problem. Replaced the caliper and It was fine.



Posted by: neo4you

Well, you see, the brakes were binding with the old caliper also. I mean, what are the odds that both old and new calipers were defective?
Also, I talked to one Ford mechanic. He says the problem might be with the wheel bearing - if it's not installed properly, the wheel will be at an angle, and that might cause brakes to bind. Does it make any sense?



Posted by: milehighmikey

No, on the wheel bearing theory. You would have noises, to say the least, at all speeds.

As I stated, these calipers are prone to freezing up and lack of parking brake use actually accelerates that in the right conditions. (salt used on roads in the winter) The first one was just to be expected at high miles, then the replacement was not a quality item and that part of it was not as good as new as it should be on a rebuilt caliper. Find another brand. I used a motorcraft rebuilt caliper my first time, at around 100K miles and had no problems with it. All for around $80. My second car, after the one I put the motorcraft on got totalled, I got one at a local autoparts chain that has a dozen or so stores in the NH area, and have had excellent luck with it, also.





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