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Pages: 1

IAC valve - wow

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Posted by: husky017

for those who have changed the idle air control valve, you know it's a huge PITA. I'm about ready to push this thing into the river. I got the old one off, and one bolt on the new one. I can only get one hand to reach the ratchet for the inside bolt..it just won't thread up, and a wrench will not work, no room. How did any of you get that thing together?



Posted by: Jeffguy11

those are the moments im happy i have a gen2



Posted by: torquemonkey

...And we have a cruise control light!



Posted by: jamie97lsc

ive done a few and i cannot tell you what to do, but i know what you mean, the bolt closest to the fender is a real mother. it sucks i wish you luck i swear everytime i have to change one!



Posted by: kustomizingkid

Why don't you cut a slot in that hole on the new IAC and leave the bolt partially in, that should make install and future removal much much easier.



Posted by: Markviiiedrea

its better to remove the transmission and go at it from the bottom. took ten minutes from under there.



Posted by: jamie97lsc

remove the transmission for an iac valve lol wow. i wouldnt go that far, thats 10 times more work then needed. if anything, you can unbolt the trans from the cross member and jack up the tail shaft to gain about an inch more space between the iac and firewall. but i wouldnt take the tranny out lol.



Posted by: Jeffguy11

pull the tranny?? no no, you should take out the radio and go in through the dash



Posted by: unity

Quote:
Originally Posted by torquemonkey View Post
...And we have a cruise control light!
95 up light up

All you can do for the IAC is use a couple u-joints and short extension and come from behind along the firewall. Never had to do one, but those who have have used lots-o-u-joints.

Removing the windshield wiper cowl may help a lot.



Posted by: AbrahamLincoln

Quote:
Originally Posted by unity View Post
95 up light up

All you can do for the IAC is use a couple u-joints and short extension and come from behind along the firewall. Never had to do one, but those who have have used lots-o-u-joints.

Removing the windshield wiper cowl may help a lot.
i have a 95 and I dont have a cruise light. my cruise works perfect? I bet its 96 obdII



Posted by: kustomizingkid

I'm really thinking that slotting that lower hole is what I'm going to try when I do mine.



Posted by: husky017

i went ahead with your advice and put a slot to the hole, worked great, got the thing in finally. now i can't find the harness/connector for the TPS, it fell back there somewhere. Anywhere know where that leads to so I can get at it?



Posted by: ford nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by kustomizingkid View Post
I'm really thinking that slotting that lower hole is what I'm going to try when I do mine.
Good Idea better then pulling the Trans
Eric wanted me to pull the Trans to do my O2 sensers "j/k"



Posted by: kustomizingkid

I can't beleive that I'm the only person to ever think of slotting that lower hole?

Only having to turn that lower bolt 1 or 2 full turns at the most would be very nice.



Posted by: jamie97lsc

what are you calling it a lower hole? the two bolts are horizontal on the back of the intake, there is a left and right bolt, but they are both mounted at the same level, the iac valve mounts straight up and down on the back of the 1st gens.



Posted by: torquemonkey

Then, two slots can be made.



Posted by: Markviiiedrea

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford nut View Post
Good Idea better then pulling the Trans
Eric wanted me to pull the Trans to do my O2 sensers "j/k"
I only say remove the tranny, because thats when I changed the 02s, IAC and and every other sensor. tranny had to come out any way to change it out.

My friend chris and got the trans swap down to 4.5 hours.

for just the IAC, jack the trans up and do what kid said, eather way Its still a PITA

Thats just my solution for everything, "head light dim, just remove the tranny!"



Posted by: kustomizingkid

Put a slot in the lower hole of the IAC, and leave the upper one alone. remove the old IAC and with it out put the bottom bolt back in the intake. With the modified IAC slide it onto the bolt in the intake and insert the top bolt. Then just tighten the two bolts up.



Posted by: jamie97lsc

i understand what you mean by slotting it but you are saying lower hole there is no lower hole, the iac is straight up and down and has a bolt on each side not top and bottom, there is no lower hole.



Posted by: ford nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie97lsc View Post
i understand what you mean by slotting it but you are saying lower hole there is no lower hole, the iac is straight up and down and has a bolt on each side not top and bottom, there is no lower hole.
I am sure he means the bolt closest to the fender, maybe he called it the lower bolt because your under the car from pulling the trans



Posted by: kustomizingkid

I understand what I meant Jamie, isn't that good enough lol, my memory is fuzzy after pulling a tranny.



Posted by: husky017

the new IAC is finally and along with the new TPS...fired up the car and putting it back together and still got the same idle problem when its cold, have to start it 2 or 3 times to keep it running. when its warm, no problem. maybe i'll reset the computer tonight, other than that I don't know what else to look for...



Posted by: Markviiiedrea

No code's? MAF, TAT? how is the seal on you intake tube to throttle body? whats the fuel pressure?
You might have to bring it to a shop to have a scanner hooked up to see what the engine senssors are doing on start up?





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