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89 mark v11 bb digital inst.cluster gone bad

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Posted by: cdmb

Hello everyone
lincolnland.com says they can rebuild the cluster for about $390.00 or more, can't find a salvage yard with one. Can someone please help? This is the best car i have ever owned! Question #2 someone mentioned getting a little more hp by removing the silencer's from the air intake (what does this mean?)

Posted by: papa bear

I have seen lincoln mark vii's for that much,I would wait until you find one in a boneyard or online,as for the air silencer it is in front of the air filter kinda hard to miss,and get a mustang 5.0 air intake tube it is larger and will pull in more air

Posted by: cdmb

thanks for the reply papa bear

Posted by: NYC LS8

Look on eBay for the cluster. 390 is ridiculous.

The silencer is inside the passenger fender.

Posted by: Awesund

I live about 2 miles from Lincoln Land. They are pretty nice folk.
But $390?!

... I really doubt they're going to rebuild it...
They might just send you a used unit that tested as 'working'. Blown/leaking capacitors are usually at the heart of 80's-90's Mark VII electronics failures.
Did they give a warranty for that price?

I have a digital cluster in my parts lot that worked fine when removed. Let me know if you're interested in it.
Or go to ebay and enter Mark VII for a search.
These digital clusters show up sometimes for less than $50-$100.

They really don't go bad, often.

They are very reliable from my years of experience with them.

Are there any circumstances, you can think of, that might have caused yours to fail? Maybe just a bad unit.
While the odometer memory is a common failure, the unit, as a whole, is pretty sturdy and dependable.

...

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

Hello everyone

Hi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

lincolnland.com says they can rebuild the cluster for about $390.00 or more, can't find a salvage yard with one. Can someone please help? This is the best car i have ever owned!

I agree.
It ~is~ the best car ever made.
Unless the display has gone completely out, you need to check your car's voltage realtime to make sure that the voltage regulator is averaging 13.8 volts. If the VR has not been replaced, then now is a good time. If the car is a 1984 through 1989, the replace the ignition switch also. These two items need to be new before chasing ANY electrical problems.
Once these are done, come back and tell us how many gremlins have fled your car

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

Question #2 someone mentioned getting a little more hp by removing the silencer's from the air intake (what does this mean?)

Some say that removing the air intake silencer will increase air flow and horse power. Having done it like three times, I can't prove or disproove it but it looks sorta like this

Posted by: papa bear

Can't you just put a k&n cone filter on the end of the intake tube and call it quits,

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by papa bear

Can't you just put a k&n cone filter on the end of the intake tube and call it quits,

That depends on what you're trying to do.
If one is trying to justify the K&N sticker on one's car, then the answer is yes.

If you're trying to increase low end rpm's and torque then no.

Do a search for "increase air flow" for more information. READ ALL OF THE RESULTS.

Posted by: cdmb

Quote:

Originally Posted by Awesund

I live about 2 miles from Lincoln Land. They are pretty nice folk.
But $390?!

Thanks for answering
yes they offered a 1 year warranty for the unit.

I drove the car to a store one day everything working fine when i came out and started the car the display didn't work nor did either window motors so i replaced the window motors but the display is still dead.

I would be very intrested in the display you have!

Also just to add i have cleaned all the connections and pigtailed another ground to it just to be sure.
i have taken it apart and found no visual bad componets. But without a schematic or wiring diagram it's hard to troubleshoot. also i believe something wrong in the computer

Posted by: cdmb

thanks oldschool1,
I have a new voltage reg installed already and the out measure is 13.6.
i did not know that the ign.switch would have anything to do with this problem. I'll try this and see what happens thanks again for this info

Posted by: cdmb

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchool1

Hi.

I agree.
It ~is~ the best car ever made.
Unless the display has gone completely out, you need to check your car's voltage realtime to make sure that the voltage regulator is averaging 13.8 volts. If the VR has not been replaced, then now is a good time. If the car is a 1984 through 1989, the replace the ignition switch also. These two items need to be new before chasing ANY electrical problems.
Once these are done, come back and tell us how many gremlins have fled your car

New update i have replaced the vr even though the reading was ok, and i have replaced the ign.switch and guess what! now my tripminder dosen't work nor does my inst. cluster! But i have 2 known good parts

The new vr is putting out 13.9
Do you have a wiring diagram or schematic so i can tell what wire to the cluster has what voltage or maybe i should change the ecm?

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

thanks oldschool1,
I have a new voltage reg installed already and the out measure is 13.6.
i did not know that the ign.switch would have anything to do with this problem. I'll try this and see what happens thanks again for this info

You're welcome.
I have to ask.
Did you replace the ignition switch or the ignition key cylinder?

I'm away from my 1989 books else I'd look it up for you.

I cannot see an entire display going south without something major being disconnected.

I'm at a loss without opening up your dash.

Posted by: cdmb

i put in the ign.switch

Posted by: Awesund

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

i put in the ign.switch

CDMB, I sent you a mail reply to your request for my digital cluster...

Yeah, the early '85 to (I think)'89 ignition plugs, directly under the key switch, were a problem.
I had to re-crimp/hammer the plug-housing holders on a few 85-87 Marks because the heat would loosen them or weaken the plastic (not sure which) to the point where the contacts wouldn't meet properly, and the car wouldn't start or would stall because the contacts worked loose from the plug gap. A good solution is a plastic zip strip to hold it in place. Easy to do.

I think '90-92 ignitions were re-designed and didn't have this problem.

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by Awesund

... I think '90-92 ignitions were re-designed and didn't have this problem.

You are correct.

Posted by: cdmb

I just want to send out a big thanks to all the ppl here!
your advice and quick responce's are great!

Just some personal info= My name is mark and i was a body tech at one of the vehicle processing plants here in Ga. I've worked on many fords, jags, porches and landrovers.
I even have done the repairs on Jay Leno's porche and the mods on the 7 landrovers in the movie casino royal.

But i have never had to work on electrical systems.

Even my mechanic friends there didn't offer the great advice that i got here so again thanks.

Oldschool1 you were 100% correct about the adding the cold air intake it really didn't do anything, I made my own with some 3'' stainless smoothbore pipe and a K&N filter (the whole thing cost $49.0 bucks to make) but i had to see for myself no offence meant. (I should have studied spelling more than working on cars

)

Anyway i'm going to add x pipes w/o cats i hope this dosen't screw up the ecc in anyway. I have found out that i have a speed density motor and maybe should change it over to a mass air flow system any comments on this?

thanks again
mark

Posted by: cdmb

Where's the spell checker (damn it)

Posted by: NYC LS8

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

Anyway i'm going to add x pipes w/o cats i hope this dosen't screw up the ecc in anyway. I have found out that i have a speed density motor and maybe should change it over to a mass air flow system any comments on this?

thanks again
mark

No need to convert just because you did an intake and exhaust. You'll be fine with the stock ECM.

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

I just want to send out a big thanks to all the ppl here!
your advice and quick responce's are great!

You're welcome.
Don't expect to get this kind of service all the time.
First we get you hooked; then we milk you for thousands of dollars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

Just some personal info= My name is mark and i was a body tech at one of the vehicle processing plants here in Ga. I've worked on many fords, jags, porches and landrovers.
I even have done the repairs on Jay Leno's porche and the mods on the 7 landrovers in the movie casino royal.

But i have never had to work on electrical systems.

Even my mechanic friends there didn't offer the great advice that i got here so again thanks.

Working on OTHER types of cars pays the bills.
We'll forgive you this time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

Oldschool1 you were 100% correct about the adding the cold air intake it really didn't do anything, I made my own with some 3'' stainless smoothbore pipe and a K&N filter (the whole thing cost $49.0 bucks to make) but i had to see for myself no offence meant. (I should have studied spelling more than working on cars

)

None taken.
Most people have to see this for themselves anyway.
On the cool meter though, the modification is a ten out of ten.

Unfortunately, unless you do all of the modifications that come AFTER that one (throttle body, upper intake, lower intake, heads, injectors and fuel pump) then the benefit won't be felt in the accelleration or top end or anything outside of a dyno or quarter mile time slip

Our cars come from the factory with a true cold air intake. The air OUTSIDE of our engine bays is colder than the air INSIDE of our engine bays. Now THAT is something that you can easily measure

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmb

No comment on speed density.
The pipes are another step in the right direction and also will require machinery for you to see an increase in performance. They too have a cool factor of ten. Depending on where you live, you may NEED catalytic converters to pass emmissions tests. Pennsylvania does. Check before you chop OR just go with some high flow stuff that looks and sounds great.

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