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Pages: 1

Door Won't Unlock!!

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Posted by: ridindirrty

Help me! I just took my '87 Bill Blass out of storage for 1 month (battery disconnected) and my passenger door WILL NOT unlock.

Can't do it with the key, Can't even open the door from the inside with the handle, and obviously the power lock switches have no effect. Everything was absolutely fine when I parked the car so what's the deal?

Posted by: JoshMcMadMac

It sounds like the linkage is bound in the door. This could be due to a seized lock actuator.

Posted by: ridindirrty

Well, I guess I should have scanned the forums BEFORE asking this question 'cause the answer now seems pretty obvious. Nonetheless, is there any chance this is an electrical problem (ie. fuse, relay) since this issue has occured after a battery disconnect and there were no signs of any mechanical problems before I parked the car?

The dew wipes are mint and everything seals like new so I doubt that water caused it. Is there any sort of passenger door control lockout for child safety that may have been reset after disconnecting the battery? My old town car had a switch to disable the rear seat window & lock controls. Throw me a bone! Also, how the hell can I get the door panel off if the door is stuck in the closed (and locked) position??

Posted by: torquemonkey

Can you remove the door lock cap and use a small pair of pliers and manually unlock the door? I have a '92 and have chrome caps on the actuator arm that are easily unscrewed.

Posted by: ND4SPDLSC

If the other door works, then it's probabaly a frozen actuator. You could also test for power out of the keyless entry module in the trunk for that door, but 99% sure it's just a frozen actuator.

Posted by: papa bear

Is it clicking or is there no sound pull the panel and wd 40 it and open it from the inside of the door frame, is the window seal rotted to let water leak into the door

Posted by: JoshMcMadMac

Quote:

Originally Posted by papa bear

Is it clicking or is there no sound pull the panel and wd 40 it and open it from the inside of the door frame, is the window seal rotted to let water leak into the door

Don't ever use WD-40 in the door. It won't do a bit of good for moving parts. White lithium grease is the way to go with all of those moisture ridden parts.

Posted by: papa bear

I have done some of the most rusted out doors in my life to the point of there was only half of the skin attached with wd 40 on all internal locking mechanisims but lithium works great at the end of the job to prevent it from freezing again also pb blaster is great.Silicone spray is a another option

Posted by: Omicron

You think you got doorlock problems? I can't even lock my door. Every time I unlock it, the alarm goes off and I don't know how to turn it off without disconnecting the battery. Then you have to reset everything when you reconnect the battery. You begin to see why I want to get rid of this money toilet?
Hey that doorlock thing happens to everybody. You end up buying a doorlock thingadoodad on ebaY, take it to your mechanic, he tells you it's not the right one, then he gets the correct part and installs it, end of problem. That, along with installing a new window motor, cost me $250. I hope you get that good a deal.
GAWD I HATE THIS CAR

Posted by: ridindirrty

Sorry to hear about all that. So far I still love this car. Guy was parting out an LSC in my hood so I copped the actuator for $25. Saw it work under power so I know it's good. Still working on actually opening my door to access mine. I'll take a 20 year old OEM part over a made in who knows where aftermarket part any day. Give it a good once over, lube it, service it and fire it in. The dew wipes and door rubber are in fine shape on my ride so the whole water ingress thing seems unlikely. When I figure this bugger out I'll share my findings with all, Thanks!

Posted by: OldSchool1

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridindirrty

Sorry to hear about all that. So far I still love this car. Guy was parting out an LSC in my hood so I copped the actuator for $25. Saw it work under power so I know it's good. Still working on actually opening my door to access mine. I'll take a 20 year old OEM part over a made in who knows where aftermarket part any day. Give it a good once over, lube it, service it and fire it in. The dew wipes and door rubber are in fine shape on my ride so the whole water ingress thing seems unlikely. When I figure this bugger out I'll share my findings with all, Thanks!

I like the way you think.

Pull the car OUTSIDE and let it run with the heat on 90° for 30 minutes. Once the entire car is up to operating temperatures, then (and only then) try the electornics and the mechanics of the door from the inside to the outside.

When done, if the car is in a secured storage area, then do NOT lock the doors. The mechanisms may freeze shut

Posted by: ridindirrty

Thanks for the advice. I did manage to get the door-pin in the up position, gave it a good tug with a set of pliers.

Now there's no resistance against the key going in the unlock direction but the door still won't open. I WILL make it work, may have to bend up some knarly slim jim type tool to trip the appropriate linkage.

Unfortunately it's -5 and freezing rain right now (I don't have covered parking) so that does tend to aggrivate things a bit. Besides, my failing brakes take priority at the moment. Keep ya posted. Yo omicron,

chill out son!

Posted by: Limey

Had mine in storage indoors this summer for a few months. when I went to fetch it I had the same prob with passenger door lock.

What cured mine was repeatedly using the lock/unlock button, and forcibly turning the key in the lock, and pulling lock knob upwards. Eventually it started to shift. when it did so, repeatedly locking & unlocking free'd it up. Now it's perfect.

Posted by: ridindirrty

Finally got my door open!

I actually dislodged the actuator from it's bracket with a coathanger (what aren't they good for?) so instead or the actuator rod moving in and out

(can't cause it's seized) it's just hanging there on the linkage freely. I can lock/unlock the door with the key now. I will tackle the actuator replacement when i get some time.

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