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Has anyone tried replacing the hydralic fan with an after market electric fan. I am thinking about doing this & know one pitfall may be overloading the alternator output. Also tricking the software sensors to think nothing has changed. Any feedback in this mod will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
Posted by: ls-steve
The usual attempt,s have been made, thermostat, degas bottle, multiple time,s bleeding the system, checking fluid level,s etc
Posted by: ls-steve
A litle history on this Ls. A state of Ohio lemon law buyback by FoMoCo. Dealer,s tried replacing (thermostat, hydralic fan, wire harness, & whatever else they could think of in early 2000. Manufactured in Dec 1999. Languished in Dearborn for 4 years before being auctioned off with under 5000 mile's. Now has 28,000 mile's but still has overheat problem,s. Please I need fresh idea's
Posted by: pektel
Cylinder head temp sensor. There are 2 I believe. One of mine was malfunctioning, and was diagnosed as the cause.
Posted by: ls-steve
Thanks for the reply, the dealer changed those but I.ll trouble shoot them again. Thanks
Posted by: ls-steve
The hydralic fan is making noise (not a good one) but this has not had an effect on the overheating. Overheats in stop & go or very high outside temps. Recently drove 1000 mile's while pulling a small trailer & had a couple overheating issues which was resolved by turning on the heat full blast
Posted by: lseguy
Did you have to KEEP the heat on full blast (sucking the hot air from under the hood) in order to keep the temp down? Or did you have to put it on high heat temporarily (under a minute), and the temp then went down, and stayed down for...hours or more?
If the latter..Im still thinking air is getting into the system somewhere/somehow..repeatedly. And the temporary full heat is enough to get the trapped air moving..temporarily.
Posted by: pektel
I'm assuming you've changed just the cap? I've heard on other threads here that a faulty cap may be to blame. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked... Also, if you want to try bleeding the system yourself, there is a tech article on here
Posted by: ls-steve
The overheating is consistent under the same conditions. Turning on the int heat will bring the temp down in 3-5 minutes but will overheat n 2-3 minutes if stuck in the same conditions I.E stop & go traffic
Posted by: LS_Monk
well just converted mine to electric. I used the BLACK MAGIC EXTREME FAN
FLEX-A-LITE 180. It has Adjustable thermostat and A/C relay. Fits great was able to mount everythng to this fan. Just like the old one. Cost me 280+tax from a good friend. And took 5 hrs to install. Works great. Simple istructions. I connected my 12v main to the starter. I connected my 12v turn on to my MAF sensor plug. This wire has no draw. Just lets the fan know that the car is on. Ground to the frame close by and the thermometer I just stuck in the rad.
