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IMRC rebuilding/rebushing

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Posted by: Psychostang

Ok, so my 1996 Gen I IMRC plate pivot bushings are leaking. What do you people recommend as a fix. Can these bushings be replaced? Is there a part number for them?

Posted by: Calabrio

I've been looking for an answer to this question for a while now. I've yet to find an answer, so I'll be subscribing to this thread.

Are your leaking air too?

Posted by: Psychostang

Yes.

Posted by: Psychostang

So, has anyone fixed their IMRC plates yet?

Posted by: chickenviii

ive never heard of anyone rebuilding their IMRC's just replacing or deleting them

Posted by: Psychostang

You can buy new ones? How much usually?

Posted by: chickenviii

ive never had to replace them personally so i dunno about cost/availability

Posted by: Psychostang

Ok, thanks for your help. I'll just take them off, and see if I can get a part number off of the bushings/bearings. If that fails, I'll just try to seal them. Gives me an excuse to remove the upper intake and IMRC plates and clean them. Not to mention the throttle body and iac and egr! I can also see what the valves look like!

Posted by: Calabrio

The front one can be "sealed" without much difficulty. You can use a tiny freeze plug or even a dopled dime or something to seal the outside of the bearing. I was able to do this with mine. But the back is another issue. Since the shaft exits, you can't cover it.

As for the cost of replacing them new, the runners are hard to find and cost about $500 each side. The vacuum units are probably not even available anymore.

Posted by: Psychostang

That's another thing, the sensor on bank one is stuck in the open position. The actuator works fine. Are these things removeable, or do you have to get a whole new actuator?

Posted by: Calabrio

You have a '96, I didn't think those were vacuum activated like the earlier ones.

Have you had any success in finding a way to rebuild/reseal these things? I'm still coming up blank.

Of course I could always delete them and add a supercharger, but that's not really practical with a 200k car.

Posted by: Psychostang

My 96 is vacuum. I've taken both of them apart. There is an oring on both the front and rear sections. I'm going to see if I can match them up to something. That should take care of the leaks. The bearings themselves have a p/n number, its 1680D and its made by NMB corporation. The bearings themselves are still good.

ON another note, I will definately be installing one of the air/oil seperators, as my whole intake track is completely covered in burnt/coked on oil. The heads, especially the secondary ports are absolutely nasty!!!

I think I found a motorcraft p/n for the vacuum actuators. Motorcarft calls them choke pulloffs. I have to do a little more investigation into that. The p/n's are CK2256 and CK2257.

Posted by: MonsterMark

Quote:

Originally Posted by AHD

I can also see what the valves look like!

You won't be happy with what you see on the non-injector side of the intake valve. Tons of deposits will be sitting on top of the valve stem.

Posted by: Calabrio

So the butterfly assemblies come apart and can be disassembled from the aluminum? The bearing can be removed from the assembly? And the o-ring is pressed into the aluminum runner and needs to be pressed in there?

I was racing Monday morning when I had my IRMCs off so I didn't have an opportunity to really study it.

Posted by: Psychostang

Quote:

Originally Posted by MonsterMark

You won't be happy with what you see on the non-injector side of the intake valve. Tons of deposits will be sitting on top of the valve stem.

Your not kidding. I was going to take a picture when I got everything apart, but it was so much worse than I could ever imagine. I couldn't do it!

Posted by: Psychostang

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calabrio

So the butterfly assemblies come apart and can be disassembled from the aluminum? The bearing can be removed from the assembly? And the o-ring is pressed into the aluminum runner and needs to be pressed in there?

I was racing Monday morning when I had my IRMCs off so I didn't have an opportunity to really study it.

Yes, all you have to do is remove the 2 screws from each blade and then gently pull out the rod. It will prolly be a little difficult on the first pull, due to any coke buildup. Also there are 3 stop clips on the underside that you have to hold up, so the rod will clear. OTher than that, they come right out. The bearings are pressed in from the outside, but there is no way to get at them from the inside. So, you would prolly have to destroy them in order to get them out. There is an oring of some sore on each end of the rod. This is what seals the plates. I originally thought the rod was a press fit into the bearings.

Posted by: 98LSC32V

The 96 IMRC's should not be vacuum!

Posted by: Psychostang

My vehicle was built in June of 96. They are vacuum operated.

Posted by: mrzeee

Hey AHD

I just noticed this post and found a dozen left and right new complete runners, I thought you were wanting the vacuum actuators in the pm. They are F3LY-9U531-E/F and list for $487.53 and cost LVC $365.65. They are discontinued.

Posted by: Psychostang

Max, your right I just need the actuators. I replied, in your section.

Posted by: Psychostang

Ok, i just finished cleaning and reassembly of the left side IMRC plate. I found some orings at Autozone, that seem to work. They are slightly larger than the bearing openings, but with a little hammer persuasion the popped in. Now before, I noticed the rods spinning inside the bearings inner bore. Not anymore. Plates are nice and clean. Here's a few pics.

Posted by: 98LSC32V

How long have you owned your 96 Mark VIII and what oil have you been using?

Posted by: Psychostang

I've owned it since October of 2005. The previous owner bought it from a local used car place in December of 1999. It went thru several auctions, and was originally registered as a fleet vehicle. I use castrol 10w-30.
I got it with 84,811 miles on it. It now has just over 100,000 miles.

Edit: IF you concerned about the coating on the gasket face, I think thats from having it soaking in the soap solution. These things were nasty. The soap solution was dark brown mud color.

Posted by: driller

Did you lock-tite those butterfly screws?

Posted by: Psychostang

They won't be coming out.

Posted by: Psychostang

Ok, got the right side cleaned and reassembled. Installed new orings, and now both bearings move when the rod is turned, so I know they are sealed. Should have no more vacuum leaks. Now I think I will take apart the actuator cans and make a good one out of both. Then maybe try to find a used one. I can't afford a new can right now.
IF anyone need to seal theirs, I used an oring from autozone. It measures 5mm id/9mm od/4mm thick. cost 49 cents a piece.

Posted by: Calabrio

I'm following this thread closely, please don't forget to update the thread.

I'll make my way to a U-Pull It this week and see if I can rebuild a pair for mine. What did the old O-rings look like when they came out?

Posted by: Psychostang

Flat, hard and brittle. Took a pair of cutting pliers to them, and they just dissintegrated. If I can't find one to use, I'll just put them both back on, and leave the check engine light on. One day I'll have enough money to do a "c" head conversion. Then I'll just get rid of them.

Posted by: Psychostang

Just a little update, I spend the last week and a half trying to find one of the actuators, but to no avail. I just ordered a new right side from Max at five star ford. Should be here by late next week. IN the mean time, I can start reinstalling the intake manifold.

Posted by: Psychostang

Just wanted to give a final update to this thread. I received the actuator from max, and reinstalled everything. The engine had a lot of cleaner in it, so it took a while for it to start. I sprayed some throttle body cleaner at each of the front and rear bearings and didn't notice a difference in idle rpm/engine smoothness, like I did before. So, I would presume that the new orings did the trick.

Posted by: Calabrio

I bought a pair of used IMRCs off a '94 Mark VIII. They were supposed to be off a low-mileage Mark, but I'd just assume replace the o-rings regardless before installing them.

Can you walk me through this? How do you remove the shaft? I'm looking at the part and it's not looking obvious to me.

Posted by: Psychostang

I think I told you this already. You remove all 4 butterflies, actuator from the plate, then pull the shaft out of the back. You need to hold up the 3 tensioners on the underside. Each butterfly has 2 screws.

Posted by: Psychostang

So, did you replace the seals yet? How are things going?

Posted by: Calabrio

AHD and I have been discussing this through PMs, but for the sake of community knowledge:

To clear up any confusion, there aren't any o-rings in there, but there is some kind of carbon-like seal on the shaft. Here are my photos of the shaft removed from the assembly.

AHD replaced those worn rings with rubber o-rings and has had success. I'm about to try the same thing. I considered the delete again, but since most of the driving in the Mark VIII is at RPMs bellow 3000 RPM (even cruising at 80mph) I've decided against it. And a S/C is out of the question for a 200k miles engine.

I think I'm going to look for some teflon o-rings. AHD said he used 5mm ID, 9mm OD, 4mm thick o-rings.

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