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Stock LS subs

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Posted by: jontz

I read somewhere (probably here) that the stock Alpine system in the LS has a 65Hz low pass filter built in, including the signal sent to the rear deck subs. Is this true? Thanks!



Posted by: Kulow

If there is a 65Hz low pass filter it would ONLY be on the rear deck subs, not on the entire system

Think about the definition of a low pass filter...it PASSES low frequencies and cuts or attenuates frequencies above the frequency mentioned, in this case 65Hz. So in other words if the ENTIRE system had a 65Hz low pass, you wouldn't hear all the wonderful voices of your favorite artists.



Posted by: jontz

Yeah, it hit me the next day as I was thinking about what I said. I meant a 65Hz high pass filter, meaning that nothing in the system produces anything lower than 65Hz. I guess I shouldn't post anything after 9:00 PM when my brain shuts down for the day...

If it does have such a filter, it would explain why no one has hooked up aftermarket subs to the stock radio with any success.



Posted by: Quik LS

the audiophile system uses a seperate 85watt amp driving the two rear subs.

not sure what you mean when you say -
Quote:
would explain why no one has hooked up aftermarket subs to the stock radio with any success.




Posted by: bagge72

I install car audio as my second job, and have done plenty of subs to lincoln factory radios, even my own with no problem.



Posted by: Kulow

Yea, there are plenty of members with aftermarket "improvements." Wouldn't be hard to do.



Posted by: whatsupadrian

I actually was successful at installing subs on my stock deck, a low level signal powers the sub amp. you can use that to power an after market amplifier.


Heres from a post made feb 1st 05.

It will sound like but can be done... The RCA will share a common ground... which is not going to do very well for sheilding. Also the DSP will limit your volume on the amp because the crossover is built into your HU To get better output use a High to low converter and run your RCAs from that but if you insist on using the stock low level outputs then here ya go......

Heres how you would do your job...

yellow/red wire will be your remote wire to amp...

red wire is your hot wire which i don't recommend using for an aftermarket amp its just so small, run a new wire directly from your batter which is already in the trunk so it will be piece of cake. Make sure you keep that wire insolated so that it doesn't short on the stray grounded metal in your trunk.

white/red wire will be the core of the Left RCA, she sheild will be the black wire wrapped in what looks like tape, keep in mind that that will be shared with the right RCA.

grey/red wire will be the right core for your RCA, remember it will share the same sheild as your left wire.

Black wire (not the sheild) will obviously be the ground wire. again i recommend just running a new ground...

------------------
Here is also something to consider. Some amplifiers give off radical signal noise. Your antenna is right above your trunk in your rear windsheild. In my case my amps signal noise gives me poor reception. But then again i am running a 3000 watt class D amp.



Posted by: RollinLS

I have had a Memphis amp and two Memphis 10" subs hooked to my stock Alpine headunit and system for over three years now. Not sure what the big deal is. My buddies stereo shop www.xclusiveautosound.com did the install. No problem.



Posted by: jontz

Good to know there have been some successes! I have read other posts with people saying that installing aftermarket subs has been a bust for them, saying that they didn't sound good, signal to the subs was weak, etc. It sounds like maybe those were isolated cases...possibly installer error.

Quik LS, I know that there is an amp and subs from the factory, I was talking about bypassing them and installing aftermarket amps and subs. Sorry I wasn't being very clear.

Thanks for all the input guys, I appreciate it. I'm gonna keep the stock head unit, I really didn't want to change it out anyway!



Posted by: pwr2killayak

my only complaint about having aftermarket subs is that with the stock deck, you only have so much control over the highs and lows. i have a great setup also. just sucks to only be able to control TREBLE, and BASS. the car does sound great with the upgraded alpine system, a kenwood 1000w amp, and 2 kenwood 1200w 12's in the trunk... fyi...



Posted by: Quik LS

Quote:
Originally Posted by jontz View Post
Quik LS, I know that there is an amp and subs from the factory, I was talking about bypassing them and installing aftermarket amps and subs.
Yep - here is the wiring of the rear amp plug so you can bypass it...

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal


pics of mine:



Posted by: jontz

NICE looking setup Quik! Thanks for the info as well.

Now I just need to decide if I really want to eat up a bunch of trunk space or modify the existing stock box to hold 2 8's. Not as much bass, but way more space, since that is an issue for me.

Thanks again for all the info everyone!



Posted by: RollinLS

I was at a USAC event for a car show. Figured what the hell and entired the Lincoln in the stereo competition. I won "streetbeat 1" which is two 10" subs 0-900 watts. I am running 400 watts to the subs and hit 128.6db. Not bad for a stock headunit and system. Picture from when the car was getting metered.



Posted by: pwr2killayak

stock system? i thought you were in the 2 10's bracket? stock headunit and stock components right....



Posted by: cuzican

The way I had mine hooked to the stock headunit (6 disc in the glovebox) was I took the facory amp off the rear sub tray. (I had to remove it because the box wouldn't clear under it) I left the amp plugged into the factory harness, cut the wires going to the factory subs, and ran those wires to a line converter. for the remote turn on i tapped into a wire from the rear fuse box. It worked perfect and hit harder with the factory head unit than when I put my Pioneer AVIC-N2 in.



Posted by: whatsupadrian

144.7DB on TERMLAB
ONE 12" sub (DD9512 motor, RE MT voicecoil/cone)
Visonik 4000xd

Rear-Horn(similar to snail shell) enclosure/ False floor, second skin...






Posted by: brendanLS

Wow, That pic is the size of the trunk!





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