Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums

(This is the forums archive - If you want to get back to the main site simply click the banner above and you will be taken to our homepage.)

Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums is the Ultimate Online Resource for Owners and Enthusiasts of American Luxury Cars. Feel free to browse through our archive - but make sure you make it back to our main site - Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums

Cadillac XLR : Cadillac CTS : Cadillac : 2005 Cadillac STS : Cadillac Forums : 2000 Lincoln LS : Lincoln Mark VIII : Lincoln Mark VII : Car Wax
Lincoln Town Car : Lincoln Air Suspension : Lincoln Continental : Lemon Law : Do It Yourself Car Repair : Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums : Mesothelioma

Back to the Archive Main Page

Pages: 1

Damn alarm...

(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: Sal329

How can I disconnect this PITA? Is there a fuse I can pull? A wire I can cut? This things goes off for no reason. Last night I had to leave my key in the door lock cyl to keep the alarm off. It is a 94 Mark.

Posted by: GMAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sal329

How can I disconnect this PITA? Is there a fuse I can pull? A wire I can cut? This things goes off for no reason. Last night I had to leave my key in the door lock cyl to keep the alarm off. It is a 94 Mark.

Sal, you need to get a keyless remote. You must don't have one. When you don't have the keyless remote, and you lock the car with the lock unlock button, the Anti-Theft will arm and then go off. So, get one off Ebay, they are everywhere. Until you get a keyless remote, you will have to lock the car with the key, or just push the locks down manually.

Posted by: unity

The keyless arms it too, does it not? It does on mine. The only way I can lock my door is to push the door lock plunger down. If I use my key, remote or keypad - it arms.

Posted by: unity

Oh, and if its going off for no reason, check the hood sensor. I think you can un-plug it. Passenger side, along the fender.

Posted by: Sal329

I unplugged the sensor it still goes off. The car is not even locked and the damn alarm still goes off.

Posted by: unity

You can lock it via plunger, then it wont go off since it wont arm the system.

I wonder if the harness in the trunk it bad, the one along the left hinge. Its possible you have a short in there, its common. THe trunk lock has a sensor.

Posted by: mespock

My alarm has a mind of its own. I can't get it to go off, but then once in a while I'll do something and there it goes..

Damn thing

Posted by: Sal329

The plunger? How do I do that?
If I don't lock my doors why is the alarm arming?

Posted by: unity

The door lock, the manual one - ummm, just push it down.

Well if your not locking anything at all, then it should not arm and go off. Does the Anti-Theft light stay solid or flash when you open or close the door. It should flash with door open if unlocked, once locked it should go solid and stay on for 30 seconds after you close the door If its going solid without locking anything, then the door lock sensor may be bad and it thinks you are locking the door when you are not - then compound that with another problem - another sensor....

Posted by: GMAN

Ok Sal, first off. Do you have your factory remote?

Posted by: Sal329

I do not have the factory remote. Did not come with the car when I got it.
The light is always blinking.

Posted by: unity

Well if its always blinking, then its never armed. It should stop blinking after a while though. Does it always blink, as in more than 15 minutes later....

Only other thought is a secondary alarm was installed. Do you know if it has one? The Mark just flashes its lights and honks the horn. Does it make any other noises?

Posted by: GMAN

OK, The anti-theft always blinks when you turn off the car or when you open the car. Anytime you manually use the power locks it will arm the system. Once you get a keyless remote and have it programmed to your Mark, you wont have this problem. The same thing happend to my silver Mark, and the same thing is now happening to my son's Mark. Until you buy a a remote and program it just lock the doors by pushing down the locks or use the key to lock it. The horn will not go off.

Posted by: unity

How will a keyless solve the problem. I arms the system the same way as pressing the 7/8 9/0 keys together on the keypad or using the interior electronic locks.

Is there something that goes faulty somewhere that using the keyless bypasses?

Posted by: rmac694203

Mine used to do this. All you have to do is unplug a connector behind the glovebox. This disables the factory anti-theft system. You still can use your keyless remote though. Let me try to find the picture of the connector and get back to you.

Posted by: GMAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by unity

How will a keyless solve the problem. I arms the system the same way as pressing the 7/8 9/0 keys together on the keypad or using the interior electronic locks.

Is there something that goes faulty somewhere that using the keyless bypasses?

I don't know the inner workings of the keyless remote, I just know that I experienced the very same problem on my 93, and now on my son's 93. Without a remote, the alarm would go of when I locked the door, the horn would go off. For this very reason when you put an aftermarket alarm on your Mark such as a Viper, you still need to have the remote handy. Anytime you use the power locks to lock the door it will arm.

Posted by: unity

Good to know.

Posted by: rmac694203

If you want to disconnect the module and be done with it, just open up the glovebox all the way so it drops down. Then look to the right hand side. There is a white module (on my 96 it's white) that is mounted pretty much horizontally. It has 2 white connectors plugged into it that are facing you. Unplug those two connectors and you're done. That's what I did to mine and no more waking up at 4 am with my horn blaring.

Posted by: Sal329

I will just disconnect it and then when I get the remotes I could try pluggin it back in.

Posted by: turborich

The remote should have nothing to do with the alarm going off for no reason. You can always use the door code or the key as well. I would check the hood and the trunk switches as said earlier. The remote is a conveinance but is not needed for the alarm to function properly.

Posted by: GMAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by turborich

The remote should have nothing to do with the alarm going off for no reason. You can always use the door code or the key as well. I would check the hood and the trunk switches as said earlier. The remote is a conveinance but is not needed for the alarm to function properly.

Hope it works.

Posted by: JMiles_T

That's the last remaining electrical gremlin on my '93.

I just disconnected the alarm module. I'll eventually gather the patience to go through the car sensor by sensor.

Posted by: Sal329

I taped the hood sensor down, reconnected the battery. The car has been sittin unlocked for 4 hours now no alarm.

Posted by: turborich

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMAN

Hope it works.

Well it should work unless their is another problem. I can either use my remote or the keypad without any problems. I think that sometimes a sensor or a relay may just stick or go bad.

Posted by: Stack

Maybe the invisible ninja's are trying to rob you!

Posted by: Icarus

Having no remote will not affect the alarm system.
The disarm/arm inputs are spliced together respectively coming from the keyless module and the door switches (R/O & PK/O wires for unlock, and PK/BK for lock.) There is another disarm wire coming from the key in the door as well (DG/P)...
The majority of the false alarms are bad inputs from the door ajar switches, trunk or hood switch, or ignition tamper switch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icarus

NOTE:
This diagnostic mode quickly identifies a shorted to ground condition for the door lock cylinder switch, hood switch and/or luggage compartment door lock cylinder circuit.

l Turn ignition switch to RUN.

l Activate power door locks five times in 10 seconds.

l Observe alarm indicator lamp, count flashes (repeats every 10 seconds).

l What does the system do?

NOTE:
Diagnostic mode will automatically cancel after two minutes or turn ignition switch from RUN to OFF, to cancel.

Flashes one time
Door lock cylinder switch, hood switch and luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch inputs normal.

Flashes two times
Door lock cylinder switch input shorted. SERVICE door lock cylinder switches or Circuit 25 (DG/P).

Flashes three times
Luggage compartment door lock cylinder or hood switch input shorted. SERVICE luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch, hood switch or Circuit 26 (W/P).

Flashes four times
Both inputs shorted. SERVICE door lock cylinder switches or Circuit 25 (DG/P). SERVICE luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch, hood switch or Circuit 26 (W/P).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icarus

Component Tests

Hood Switch

Measure the installed switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent. The resistance between Pin 5 of the anti-theft alarm control and ground (Pin 23/26) should be more than 25,000 ohms with the hood closed. Opening the hood should drop the resistance to less than 200 ohms. If not, replace hood switch or service Circuit 26 (W/P).

Door Disarm Switch

Measure door lock cylinder switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent with key removed from the door lock. The resistance should be more than 25,000 ohms. If not, replace the door door lock cylinder switch.

Measure the door lock cylinder switch resistance with the key fully rotated to the end of travel in the unlock direction. The resistance should be less than 200 ohms. If not, replace the door lock cylinder switch.

Lock Tamper Switch, Luggage Compartment Door

Measure the installed switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent. The resistance should be more than 25,000 ohms. If not, replace the luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch.

Ignition Lock Anti-Theft Switch

Disconnect anti-theft control module and measure the resistance between Pin 10 and Pin 26 at the wiring harness connectors. Resistance should be between 145 and 175 ohms. If not, replace the ignition lock anti-theft switch or service Circuit 936 (DG/W).

Posted by: rmac694203

Using the remote to lock the car is the same as pushing the lock button inside the car. They both arm the car. The only way my alarm wouldn't go off is when I locked the car by pushing down the lock plunger. I decided to unplug the module so I could use my remote again. Never had an alarm since. I would bet that if you plug it back in, even after you get your remote, that it will start going off again.

Posted by: GMAN

Manually pushing the locks down does not arm the car.

Posted by: unity

Thats what he said

Its pretty much the ONLY way to lock the car without arming it.

Posted by: rmac694203

Correct sir. I had to lock my car that way for a long time until I heard about just unplugging that stupid module. My life is better now.

Posted by: Stack

I guess nobody wants to entertain the invisible pirate ninjas eh?

Posted by: unity

You can not prove what you can not see - like God.

Libro de autoayuda:Loans:Remortgages:Finance:Car Insurance