(This is the forums archive - If you want to get back to the main site simply
click the banner above and you will be taken to our homepage.)
Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums is the Ultimate Online Resource for Owners and Enthusiasts of American Luxury Cars. Feel free to browse through our archive - but make sure you make it
back to our main site - Lincoln vs Cadillac Forums
Greetings to everyone - I am new to this forum and from what I have read, there is alot of knowledge here. I need to tap some of that with a very frustrating problem. This will be long, but I want to give the full history in order. November: Water Pump was replaced ( was making noise and leaking) okay after that. Then winterized in November - car overheats - brought back to shop, bled the air - okay for a while. December, going to Colorado - car starts to overheat....Grrrrr. Stop and have system bled of air again - perfect. Get home and feel that putting in a new thermostat would be a logical decision....done and now, you guessed it, overheating, same day.
Bring back car again, they try to bleed air out again..I watched this time....they opened the bleeder valve, saw bubbles, let run for a while, still overheating ( temp gauge on "O", mine has always run on the "M" and "A".)
Fan does kick in - they put coolant through bleeder and filled expansion tank as well...closed off...bled and more air...Do I Have a leak, or do I need to bleed this myself. Have seen no coolant on driveway. From reading your forums, there seems to be a right way to bleed the air out. Can anyone give me a step by step before I take to dealer....I think these guys have no idea how to do this on my vehicle. I am a female, but am not afraid of going under the hood ( back in the old days (60's) did my own tune ups and oil changes before cars got complicated under there.) Just need step by step.
Thanks in advance.....
Posted by: Calabrio
The easiest thing to recommend is to bleed it a few more times with the heater on. Last time, it took me several cycles to get the air out, and the last time I was actually shaking the car in an effort to get the trapped air bubbles out. And bleeding meant running the car for at least 15 minutes with the cross over tube opened.
It seemed everytime I did cooling work without completely bleeding it, the more difficult it became to get all the air out.
Also, just double check for dampness or a minor drip. It only takes a little bit of air leaking into the system to cause the engine to run warm. Check the thermostat housing, sometimes the gasket doesn't seat properly.
And, check the front of the car for puddles, the plastic tanks can separate from the aluminum fins.
Posted by: Catoosa
thank you for your quick reply - just got home from work and there you were...I am hoping this is all it is..I will bleed this baby tomorrow myself, if I may ask, why have the heat on? Thanks again.
