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Here's the deal.. Check DCL is on.. The car won't go much past 36 mph.. I can't press the gas petal more then 1/4 of the way without the engine idle bottoming out. There is also a popping noise that accompanies this. It was said that it's a vaccuum line. Just had the tranny rebuilt, but this had happened before the transmission was rebuilt. The mech said that there was nothing wrong and it was fine. Can anyone throw me a bone on whats going on?
Posted by: decibels5
only time i ever had misfiring that bad, was a cracked head. oh yeah, when i put the plug wires in the wrong order. check plugs, wires, coils, check for water in gas. is it smoking? check for water in oil. pull the plugs and examine them. look for a liquid other than gas. has it ran hot lately? have you done any maintenance lately? 1 more thing , timing.
Posted by: Jimbo
i recently did a tune up (plugs, wires, rotor, cap) but that awas about two months ago.. would i just now in the past couple weeks be feeling the wrath? i thought about the water. Timing is possible, and no I haven't overheated
Posted by: decibels5
I would definately start there, pull the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and check the timing. maybe a broke spark plug, a cut wire, a bad or broke rotor, doubt the wires are in the wrong order if it has been running fine.
Posted by: Jimbo
not to sound like a puss but how do i check the timing?
Posted by: decibels5
here are the basics. you can probably call the dealer or autozone to get the degrees at what it should be set at. and the plug they are talking about is normally the vacuum hose. I dont see why you should have to adjust your timing unless your dist. was loose. is this on your 82? http://answers.yahoo.com/question/?q...1113703AA0x5g1
Posted by: Jimbo
92
Posted by: Jimbo
now thinking about it if it was that then why would my engine only put out so much rpm before bottoming out?
Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear
the DCL problem is likely a bad connection in the instrument cluster and should NOT effect drivability any...
However, if the EEC (engine computer) has gone into failsafe mode due to failure, you can possibly get a DCL error, as WELL as the drivability problem...
do all the normal tests BEFORE you swap EEC's (including pull the codes, it could tell you/us a lot)... and try this if you havn't... disconnect the batter for at least 10 mins before hooking up and seeing what its doing to clear the learned fuel info.
Posted by: Jimbo
well.. things that have been done today were. i took it in to get the cadilidic converters checked out.. wasn't them.. then i took it to my mech.. he did all the testing. he did all that you said MI, at first he thought it was going to be a mass airflow sensor ($80) but that didn't do anything. So it did come down to the EEC. He found one for $150. He got the car to where i can go to work for the next couple days and thats it. But he's gonna just put the new computer in when it comes. but thanks everyone.
Posted by: Jimbo
the work has been done and the car runs fine.. its nice to have my baby back
Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear
one of the rare cases of an eec failure... chalk that one up to experience....
nice combination of symptoms.. eec appearently in failsafe mode, and DCL error...
