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Pages: 1

jmod schematics! help again!

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Posted by: Nitrobasher

so we pulled the valvebody screws out but... im the idiot who forgot where they all go, so please someone hook me up with an exploded view or schematics for the valvebody!

please?

Posted by: Nitrobasher

for the love of god please help me,

just imagine, your 17 with one car, and having to tell ma and pa that you messed it up trying to mod it????

plllleeeaaassseee

Posted by: 04SSHD

try to google it

Posted by: driller

I don't know whether this will help or not... Shift Kit

Posted by: 02LSE96LSC91SE84TC

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00035.html

This what your looking for?

Posted by: Nitrobasher

no, i need an actual exploded view or something.

there are 4 different types of screws that go in it, i konw someone has a pic, or something! please

btw thanks for your guys help!!

Posted by: evillally

Scroll to the bottom:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...business.shtml

Posted by: Nitrobasher

nah thats not working either.... if someone could just tell me... i know where the shortest screws go...

and i think the longest line the outside of the valve body. but i dont know where the middle screws, and the half threaded screw goes. please all you mark viii gods HELP

if there is anytime i need help it is now. you have to understand that i neeeeed a car.

Posted by: Calabrio

Try the search button on some of the other forums.
Also keep in mind, the 4R70W is in many other models, so try those forums as well. Specifically, Thunderbird, Mustang, other Mark VIII, and even Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Maruader ones.

For example:
www.markviii.org
www.tccoa.com
www.lincolnsclub.org
www.modulardepot.com/

Posted by: Nitrobasher

well iv been sitting here pondering about what the guy at the dealership said. (take it to a shop immediatly)

and i was thinking.... the only screws i touched on the valvebody were on the outside...
so im basically sure how the screws go in because u can see how far down the screw goes...

but even if i did mess the screw pattern up on the outside would that still hurt the valve body? there only holding it up right?

Posted by: evillally

Did you READ the post I linked?

Quote:

STEP #16: Spray the inside of the transmission case with brake cleaner spray to remove the ATF fluid from your work area. Install the valve body in the reverse order as it was removed. Carefully thread two of the longer 8mm bolts into the opposite ends of the main controls, to hold it in place. Re-install the remaining 23 bolts that retain the valve body. Torque the bolts to 90 in.-lbs. Hook up the electrical connections to the various sensors. Here is the check list; TCC (Torque converter clutch) solenoid, Shift solenoids, EPC solenoid, and black plastic tab (7H141). Be careful not to incorrectly hook up the solenoids to the wiring harness or transmission damage could occur. See the CPD drawing below for details. The following shows you the torque sequence for the main control bolts.

Posted by: driller

Excerpt from the link I gave...

"Using an 8 mm socket, loosen the 25 valve body bolts(remove only the bolts which have 8 mm heads) while supporting the valve body. Please note that 12 of the valve body attaching bolts pass through the 3/16-inch thick steel valve body reinforcing plate and are longer than the rest."

Posted by: poneyhexed

the longer screws go into the ceter where the thicker metal plate is. Actually just put in two screws that you know are correct in. Screw them in to the valve body . snug not tight against the trans. Put all the screws in two turns. The ones that are to long or will not reach are in the wrong position. When you are finish they should all be roughly the same hight. You know you have it correct when they are. It is really simple actually. You just need confindence.then snug them all up and you are all set. that is what I had done with my transgo kit and any other trans I have ever worked on. Never had a problem.

Posted by: Nitrobasher

ok so we finished up the jmod today... and uh oh.

after 11 quarts with the car running heres the results...

it slips into reverse.
and it wont leave second. no matter if i manually shift or floor it or leave it in drive.
it stays in second all the time!

wtf do i do. take it to a shop? how much will they charge?

Posted by: driller

Are you sure the shift detent linkage inside was correct???

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00035.html

I re-installed the valve body without aligning the shift linkage with the shaft. Notice in the center of the photo the jagged bracket, or "Rooster" has a pin that aligns with the horizontal shaft traveling front to rear. In the photo, you can see how the pin is lined up with the center of the shaft. It should be toward the front of the shaft, between the two retainers. I discovered this AFTER installing the pan, and 10 qts of fluid. I had to remove the pan and the valve body to correct this error!

Posted by: poneyhexed

do you have any left over parts ?? Sound like you left a gasket out or something. Sounds like you left the gasket out that goes between the valve body and the trans. Did you get all the check balls into the right place?? If you take it to shop it is going to be really expensive. if you where around LA I would help you out. Do you have a fax machine?? I might be able to fax you some of the pages from my transgo kit that would help you allot. They are very detailed. Unless some else has a link ??

Posted by: JMiles_T

I had to drain, and pull the thing apart 4 times after I finished drilling the separator plate. The first time was because I didn't properly re-align the rooster comb for the shifter (which I agree is what is probably plaguing your car now).

The subsequent 3 times were because I no longer had 3rd and 4th gear and couldn't figure out why. It turned out that I didn't properly re-align 1 of the 3 retainer discs that bolt to the valve body. I was pretty mad at myself for making such a careless error, but I was happy that I got the job done.

Hang in there; you'll get it.

(When you pull everything apart again, be mindful not to lose those check-balls; they can be hard to spot when they fall on the ground.)

Posted by: Nitrobasher

well yea the check balls did fall out... but we found what i thought was all of em and put em back in (I THINK)

im not worried about taking the car apart, im worried that im messing up my valvebody and trans with it like this.

The car slipps really bad into reverse (to about 2k-2.5k)
and it deffinatly shudders when i first give it gas but then again that could just be because its in second.

keep in mind that the entire time i was working my friends dad (big chevy guy) was making fun of the ford and said there was no way we would get it done! so for all of the mark viii people out there PROVE EM WRONG

Posted by: Nitrobasher

UPDATE!!!

So i took my car out right after i got home from work and i got the car in first gear, and when i punched it, it did what it was supposed to, hit second real quick but it still felt real soft,

and i even left out the factory lower spring (thats the grey one right?)

Posted by: seanklsc

This thread is so sad..

Posted by: Nitrobasher

then dont

ing post in it, jackass... i forgot youre so much cooler than everybody else... why dont you go soke up your glory on another board if you have nothing nice to say to anybody

Posted by: MarkVIII93

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanklsc

This thread is so sad..

Honestly man, he's in desperate need of help, theres no need for stupid comments.

Posted by: 1993_M75

Maybe you should just buy a new pre-modded valve body:
http://www.factorytechtransmissions....WPROD&ProdID=6

Posted by: 98LSC32V

Well this should serve as a good lesson for you not to get into over your head next time. Hope you get everything sorted out though... good luck.

Posted by: MediumD

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1993_M75

Maybe you should just buy a new pre-modded valve body:
http://www.factorytechtransmissions....WPROD&ProdID=6

$225! Plus $100 if they don't get a core. Thats a bit on the expensive side IMO...

Posted by: 1993_M75

Quote:

Originally Posted by MediumD

$225! Plus $100 if they don't get a core. Thats a bit on the expensive side IMO...

I think it is $300 from a dealer for a stock one.

Posted by: MediumD

And about $20 if you got one from a U Pull It..

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