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Pages: 1

Brake Rotor Replacement...

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Posted by: JC1994

I just ordered me a 4 piece drilled & sloted brake rotor kit from R1 concepts for $139.00 on Ebay for the Mark,anybody got these? are they good? Thanks

Posted by: evillally

I'd be weary of cheapo Asian brakes- they may be easily prone to wapring. Just remember to break them in properly and also to properly torque your lugnuts to 90-100 ft./lbs.

I just bought KVR drilled rotors myself. They'll be going in on Saturday...

Posted by: JC1994

these say U.S. made and they are silver zinc coated.

Posted by: evillally

Then just install them, break them in properly, and enjoy!

Posted by: JC1994

yeah ,it's time for new brakes mine are getting thin in the front and the rotors are junk.

Posted by: rmac694203

I emailed that company and asked them where they are made, and I think they said they are made in Canada and they drill them themselves.

Posted by: MonsterMark

I wonder how many guys would be interested in cryo-tempered rotors? We might be doing these by next week if there is enough demand. Will totally cure the warping issue, extend the life of the rotor by at least 3 times and allow you to run harder compounds on the pads to increase stopping power and fade out.

Might put up a sticky about it.

I have not liked what I have read on all the slotted stuff and the stress risers drilling puts into a rotor.

Posted by: 98LSC32V

I recently installed the R1 cross drilled/slotted gold anodized rotors and they stop on the dime! Just remember to get decent brake pads to go along with them and break them in properly. The only I didn't like was the coating came off on them on the ride home and stained my 10 spokes...

Posted by: MonsterMark

I'm on my way to Texas in a few hours to pick up a cryogenic machine, computer controlled from 550F down to -300F.

I would appreciate any and all input about success/failure of rotors you have had. Mileage, etc.

Also, if you have a weight comparison of your stock rotors vs replacement rotor you bought, that would be great.

List make of vehicle and replacement brand of rotor.

We will be tempering both the rotors and the pads and will sell them as a set.

More info to follow.

Thanks in advance for any input you guys can give.

Posted by: buddylee

I got mine from the same place , I think it in L.A. here in Ca.

Great deal, work fine ..... yet it hasnt been even 6 months yet.

I found them on ebay but called them insted. quick shipping also

I dont think they weight much less than the stock ones.

Word to the wise find a good tool for the rears.... not that cheep box , I ended using chanle locks and having my son push as I turned.

I only got ceramic breaks for the front , napa did have them for the rear.

Posted by: Cubster

Go to discbrakesrus.com you won't be disappointed, I had mine for a year now. I love em !!!!! You can get the rotors & calipers powder coated there too . I got the cross drilled & slotted rotors & 2 piston calipers on all 4 corners.

Posted by: 94m5

Spending some bucks eh?

I'll have a forged crankshaft and some connecting rods pretty soon. The machine gonna be big enough for those?

Posted by: JoeyLincolnMK8

when i get my brakes i am going with 6 piston calipers baby!

Posted by: MonsterMark

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94m5

Spending some bucks eh?

I'll have a forged crankshaft and some connecting rods pretty soon. The machine gonna be big enough for those?

Up to 48" long. Enough for a V-16 if ya got one.

Posted by: JC1994

Whats the best way to break them in? I think I still remember but I would like to hear how everyone else does it.

Posted by: JC1994

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmac694203

I emailed that company and asked them where they are made, and I think they said they are made in Canada and they drill them themselves.

second best to U.S.A. made. much better than AutoBone's china made junk!!

Posted by: Moes8

Quote:

Originally Posted by MonsterMark

I'm on my way to Texas in a few hours to pick up a cryogenic machine, computer controlled from 550F down to -300F.

I would appreciate any and all input about success/failure of rotors you have had. Mileage, etc.

Also, if you have a weight comparison of your stock rotors vs replacement rotor you bought, that would be great.

List make of vehicle and replacement brand of rotor.

We will be tempering both the rotors and the pads and will sell them as a set.

More info to follow.

Thanks in advance for any input you guys can give.

awesome...........
cryo rocks,

any idea of cost for rotors?

mike

Posted by: MonsterMark

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moes8

any idea of cost for rotors?

First, if the computer controlled machine works as we desire it to, we'll buy it. Second, we'll work up a complete part list. Pricing really depends on quantity of parts. If we can stuff a fair amount in for each pass, the price is lower. That type of thing. I'll let you know what's up on Friday.

Posted by: JC1994

I might have you do mine before I put them on. let me know. Thanks JC..

Posted by: rmac694203

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC1994

Whats the best way to break them in? I think I still remember but I would like to hear how everyone else does it.

The proper procedure for 'seasoning' NEW rotors is to take the car up to about 25 MPH then slow down gently to about 5 MPH. Do this 4 or 5 times then park the car for a two or three hours until the rotors are back to ambient temperature completely.

The reason for doing this is that it helps to align the molecules in the steel making the rotors stronger and less prone to warping. This is very important as it helps prevent warping your rotors.

Note, if you're doing front and rear rotors, install and season the fronts first, then install and season the rears. Go up another 10 MPH for the rears as they don't get the braking force that the fronts get. Other than that, the procedure is the same.

Be advised that you don't have to do this when you replace the pads or even when you turn the discs, only when you put new rotors on the car. Also, if you put on new rotors, you should use new pads as well.

From the tech articles section

Posted by: JC1994

Thanks, that's how I do it .

Posted by: MonsterMark

Picked up the unit.

Got to get her installed. Then hook up the gas and we're good to go. Hope to have some info by Monday. Have to go to sleep now. 35 hour drive. Zzzzzzzzzzzz

Posted by: GMAN

I upgraded to a 13" Slotted brake set that has two pistons from Stainless Steel Brakes. Theses set me back $850.00. I think they are well worth the money. These are alumunum constructed and 38mm piston size.

Posted by: JC1994

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMAN

I upgraded to a 13" Slotted brake set that has two pistons from Stainless Steel Brakes. Theses set me back $850.00. I think they are well worth the money. These are alumunum constructed and 38mm piston size.

I won't need that much in brakes, I don't road race my Mark 8, got the mustang for that, thanks for the link though...

Posted by: JDS353

bryan only us old folks are supposed to drive like that. will be sending some things up when you get up and running. just wondering are you going to heat the parts up before dropping them down . jd an old welder.

Posted by: MonsterMark

Thanks for the reply jd. We have over 50 programs depending on what type of material we are doing.

The machine is computer controlled with the latest and the greatest. Most programs will follow a 1 degree/minute process, both up and down. Some will be .5 degree/min and some even less at .3 degree/min. depending like I said on the type of material and overall weight/density of the parts. Our average total cycle will be 36 hours. We are NOT doing this to try to crank out parts for a quick profit. We got the unit to do our own stuff, mostly cart racing things like blocks and cranks and rotors, etc and I figured there would be a bunch of guys that could also benefit in the Ford/GM automotive community. Our machine has a range of -300F up to 575F. We have 2 internal blowers in the unit to move the air around so the process will be very consistent and even.

Obviously the most expensive part of this process is the nitrogen. Fortunately I buy huge amounts of nitrogen in gaseous form now so i should be able to secure the best pricing also when it comes to the liquid form.

I am pretty excited. We researched this alot before taking the plunge. Especially with Ford's we expect to do a fair amount of business with rotors and pads seeing as how they are notorious for warping. This process will solve that problem.

I'm doing my whole motor along with most of the moving suspension parts.

I'll be posting pics along the a write-up of the process and pricing.

Should be pretty cool. Pardun the pun.

Posted by: BryanB

These are the same rotors I put on my '97 Mark. I bought them because they were on sale and shipping and everything was right at $140. They will make a little noise when you get almost to a stop under heavy braking (deer) but do make the car stop faster. No problems with the coating. I have Duralast pads from AutoZone on them and the dust is at a minimum. Do not mess around the rear calipers! No vice grips, hammers, channel locks or anything like that. Go to harbor freight and spend the $20 and get a caliper piston spin down kit. It will pay for its self in less frustration. I also works on all calipers including the front dual pistons of the Town Cars. If you get a scar on the side of a piston from trying to push the piston in at an angle then you will have a headache.

Posted by: tda13

Quote:

Originally Posted by MonsterMark

Thanks for the reply jd. We have over 50 programs depending on what type of material we are doing.

The machine is computer controlled with the latest and the greatest. Most programs will follow a 1 degree/minute process, both up and down. Some will be .5 degree/min and some even less at .3 degree/min. depending like I said on the type of material and overall weight/density of the parts. Our average total cycle will be 36 hours. We are NOT doing this to try to crank out parts for a quick profit. We got the unit to do our own stuff, mostly cart racing things like blocks and cranks and rotors, etc and I figured there would be a bunch of guys that could also benefit in the Ford/GM automotive community. Our machine has a range of -300F up to 575F. We have 2 internal blowers in the unit to move the air around so the process will be very consistent and even.

Obviously the most expensive part of this process is the nitrogen. Fortunately I buy huge amounts of nitrogen in gaseous form now so i should be able to secure the best pricing also when it comes to the liquid form.

I am pretty excited. We researched this alot before taking the plunge. Especially with Ford's we expect to do a fair amount of business with rotors and pads seeing as how they are notorious for warping. This process will solve that problem.

I'm doing my whole motor along with most of the moving suspension parts.

I'll be posting pics along the a write-up of the process and pricing.

Should be pretty cool. Pardun the pun.

Where are you located at. I work for a gas distribution company. If I am not close, I can tell you based on your needs what set up would be best.

If you are using high pressure cylinders, the product is not your highest cost... moving the cylinders (labor) is your highest cost. You are also sending back nearly 30 percent of the product when you replace the cylinder... even if the guage reads empty. You can not withdraw all the product. Your supplier does not want you to know that.

PM and I can give you some info.

T

Posted by: NYC LS8

October 29th, 2005, 11:27 PM

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