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LS Dies when sitting still, Please Help!

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Posted by: mobley81

I am a new lincoln owner and I am already having some issues. I own a 2000 LS, V6, auto. The car starts up fine but if I sit for more than a minute or two at idle the car will die. It doesn't run rough first it just quits. I took it to Autozone and the diagnostic said it was running lean. Something like bank 1 and bank 2 are running lean. Anyway, I replaced the MAF sensor and the fuel filter and it is continuing with the problem. If anybody can help I would definitely appreciate it. Thanks.

Posted by: pepperman

I don't own a LS , i own a Town Car and i was having the same problem , the mechanic found a vacumm line that was rotted out and he replaced it. You might want to have the IAC Valve cleaned that might fix your problem.

Posted by: beaups

lean at idle is usually caused by vacuum leak of some sort. do a search, there's some good info here including spraying some break cleaner around the injectors with engine running to detect injector seal leak. it's likely a problem with the crappy pcv valve hose that many others have had problems with. you can do search on that topic.

Posted by: Quinton

My wife's 00 V6 LS was doing this exact same thing. It was a boot leak but I don't remember the part #. If you look at the plastic cover piece on top of the engine and go straight back towards the firewall you will see it sticking up. You have to buy the boot and the metal bracket it is a part of. It cost around $25. While my mechanic friend was fixing that I had him do the spark plugs, pvc valve and the 90 degree boot that connects to it. Seems to have a little more power now.

Go to Ford and you will find the part on their computer. I gave them the part # of the long metal tube that it connects to (you can see this tube running across the engine coming out towards the front) and then that part # led us to the picture of the boot and bracket. I know that's kinda vague but it really didn't have much of a name to it.
LMK if that helps you.

Posted by: eL eS

I fixed the same problem myself a few months ago. Talk to Maxx at 5 star, copntact info is in my signature, and he can get you going on the parts.

It could be one of a few hoses that are specific to the V6. I have lots of documentation along with photos. There s another thread already going one this topic that was started recently.

Posted by: eL eS

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=13512

see the link that QuikLS pasted it will take you to another thread on this subject. I will check back to see if you have any questions.

Posted by: Boomerang

Wellcome to Lincoln Vs Cadillac.

i had a sama problem do not change any part before check your plastik hose which is under the injektors. than you go ahead and check the other parts.

if you need more details just click here or search for po171 po174

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=13512
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/sho...ighlight=po174

Posted by: Quinton

yeh chek yure plastik injekter hose thing
sounds nice and vague

Posted by: Lincolnlov

Quote:

Originally Posted by eL eS

I fixed the same problem myself a few months ago. Talk to Maxx at 5 star, copntact info is in my signature, and he can get you going on the parts.

It could be one of a few hoses that are specific to the V6. I have lots of documentation along with photos. There s another thread already going one this topic that was started recently.

eL eS,
I recall that you got a new Infinity (sweet), but didn't realize that you still have your LS. Glad you're still with us. All that hard won knowledge isn't going to waste. And, thanks for all your informative posts. Lincolnlov

Posted by: tireman

Here is the most likely problem. I just went thru this routine. The code comes up lean both banks. Ok , you have a vacumn leak after the MAF. If you check everything and all is tight, then it is the PVC valve hose under the lower intake manifold. This hose is rubber and cracks and splits because of the heat. This is an obvious design flaw and i have complained to Ford about it. Others have had the same problem. The response from Ford? Sorry about that. Cost to fix $400 from dealer. $380 labor + $20 part! My LS is 2001 and would stall over and over in traffic and stall out just sitting in the garage idling. It does not get any better. This is a tough job to do yourself. Any questions just ask. Keith

Posted by: eL eS

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lincolnlov

Well you are half right. I traded, rather gave, the LS to the dealer when I bought the G. I have been busy as h3|| lately so I haven't had much of a chance to stop in. Plus you guys are a much better crowd to hang with

. Thanks for the kind words.

Posted by: eL eS

Quote:

Originally Posted by tireman

Here is the most likely problem. I just went thru this routine. The code comes up lean both banks. Ok , you have a vacumn leak after the MAF. If you check everything and all is tight, then it is the PVC valve hose under the lower intake manifold. This hose is rubber and cracks and splits because of the heat. This is an obvious design flaw and i have complained to Ford about it. Others have had the same problem. The response from Ford? Sorry about that. Cost to fix $400 from dealer. $380 labor + $20 part! My LS is 2001 and would stall over and over in traffic and stall out just sitting in the garage idling. It does not get any better. This is a tough job to do yourself. Any questions just ask. Keith

Yep... I got my part for 4 bux at autozone. I too had almost been killed a few times due to the stalling out. tireman is right about it being a bit of a tough job but I was able to pull it off and I assure you that I am no mechanic not by any measure.

Shop around on ebay for the OE shop manuals or sign up for an alldata.com accoutn. I think it is about 20 bux for the alldata.com service for one year. I had the shop books and access to alldata.com but I think alldata.com follows the OE shop manuals very closely.

Posted by: dirtbikekid

Guys, I am having the same problem, it actually didn't start this till the shop replaced the valve covers and tube seals. How hard is this hose to replace, or either they left something loose when they did this cause I'm sure they had to take of the intake to do all this work. I'm just worried they will give me a line of crap about an O2 sensor or MAS and I KNOW those aren't the problem, will their diagnostic test tell that the hose is the problem cause at autozone it says 0174 lean banks???? Help!!!

Posted by: dirtbikekid

IT was a couple of months ago when they did the work so they should still warranty it, I was wondering if I should mention this hose to them to keep from getting the run around on it being something else.

Posted by: eL eS

not very likely they caused the problem. The part failure is expected on this car but they never released a service advisory for it.

The part that needs to be replaced is one layer lower than where they were when they did the VC gaskets.

I wouldn't bother with the MAF or o2 sensors but if you do not get this fixed it could result in killing the cats.

Posted by: dirtbikekid

Thanks, how long of a job would you expect this to be? I have tools and a garage, looking for a timeframe and difficulty factor. AND on top on all this......hope this is my problem should I decide to tear into it. IF they diagnose it, would it tell them that there is an airleak somewhere, or are they gonna beat around the bush?? Thanks so much!!

Posted by: Quinton

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quinton

My wife's 00 V6 LS was doing this exact same thing. It was a boot leak but I don't remember the part #. If you look at the plastic cover piece on top of the engine and go straight back towards the firewall you will see it sticking up. You have to buy the boot and the metal bracket it is a part of. It cost around $25. While my mechanic friend was fixing that I had him do the spark plugs, pvc valve and the 90 degree boot that connects to it. Seems to have a little more power now.

Go to Ford and you will find the part on their computer. I gave them the part # of the long metal tube that it connects to (you can see this tube running across the engine coming out towards the front) and then that part # led us to the picture of the boot and bracket. I know that's kinda vague but it really didn't have much of a name to it.
LMK if that helps you.

Some mechanics are like doctors - they don't like to be told what you think is the problem. Just tell your mechanic that you trust what the smart guys on here have told you seems to be the problem most of the time on our LS's. My mechanic just listened under the hood and spotted the air leak back by the firewall. So I had him do all the above mentioned at the same time and it hasn't died on us anymore.

Posted by: eL eS

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbikekid

Thanks, how long of a job would you expect this to be? I have tools and a garage, looking for a timeframe and difficulty factor. AND on top on all this......hope this is my problem should I decide to tear into it. IF they diagnose it, would it tell them that there is an airleak somewhere, or are they gonna beat around the bush?? Thanks so much!!

I would say 3 to 5 hours becasue there is a lot of disassy/reassy work. You will want to jack slap the engineer that invented this problem when you see how bloody stupid the design is.

If you decide to do and want to call me just give me a call and I can call back since I do not pay LD with vonage.

It really isn't hard to do just a lot of bending under the hood time.

Like Quinton mentioned the techs do not like to be told what the problem is but my experience has been that most do not get it right the first time so I would be suprised if they didn't try to beat around the bush.