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92 Continental signature/New owner

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Posted by: wtucker

First let me say thanks for allowing me into this forum. As I am a new Lincoln owner, I will rely on you guys for help in identifying my problems. First I'll say I just bought this car from an older guy who has taken very good care of this car. It has 86K miles on it and many items are new.

Problem 1) After driving for about 45 minutes, the check engine chimes and lites up. AutoZone will only pull code for 1996 and newer modle years. Any ideas who can pull these codes for free? There is no noticeable issues with the engine and how it runs when this happens.

Problem 2) Just today, I noticed the check DCL light comes on, almost instantlyafter it comes on and chimes I have a stumble in the engine, then it dies. Wait a minute or 2 and it starts up. Of coarse the normal lines appear for the DCL center and that I understand is normal when that light comes on. I've read the tune up info on the DCl and I will try this over the weekend, but I have not read anyone having a stutter in the engine and then it dying.

Problem 3) Brake Lamp light comes on (I think that's what it's called) mThe book says this is an indication that a brake light bulb is out, but they are all working ok.

Guys, any info here would be greatly appreciated.

If I can't get the codes pulled for free, what can I expect to pay? Any thoughts as to where would be a good place to take the car for the codes?

Thanks to all who reply///Will

Posted by: aristo1963

you have eec iv 19 bucks for a code reader

http://tradervar.zoovy.com/product/E...bizrate-EQ3143

Posted by: pepperman

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by aristo1963

you have eec iv 19 bucks for a code reader

http://tradervar.zoovy.com/product/E...bizrate-EQ3143

That's great. Thank you. Do you have any helpful information other than where to buy a code reader?

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by pepperman

Pepperman,
Nice looking ride you have. I'll have to put some pix of my 92 on here soon. I just bought it from an older gentleman. He has replaced the A/C system, converted to R134, all new components. New engine computer, all new air level system, shocks, bags, compresser, sensors, new Michellin tires all around, new brakes, new antenna, new climate control module, new power steering hoses, new battery. It has 86K miles on it. No tears in the leather, looks very nice. I paid 3200 for it. He told me that the check engine comes on occasionally and he took it to the dealer and they told him there were no codes stored. It comes on after about 45 minutes of driving. Just yesterday this check DCl came on and almost instantly there was a shutter in the engine and then it died. I had to push the car off the road. Then I started it right up and drove it home. When it died, it would crank but not start. I am very concerned. Have any thoughts on the issue here?

Posted by: JoeyLincolnMK8

welcome aboard!

Posted by: Conti94

92's are great cars, early 90's Conti's are great. I have a 94. The brake light is probably just a bulb or malfunction of a sensor somewhere but just in case I must ask, Do the brakes feel mushy at all, do you hear any grinding when you brake? And is abs light on at all when you brake. Does it seem like it takes to long to stop?

Posted by: brave heart

oops you guys suck big hairy salty balls, blow me

Posted by: Conti94

Man i reread you're post about the DCL. It is a possibility that the cars computer is acting up. I have heard that when the computer goes belly up it can cause the car to stall out. I say get it checked out by a local mechanic, or dealer you trust.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conti94

Brakes feel fine to me. No problems at all. The pads are new also. No other brake lights are on, just the brake lamp warning. As I stated, I had my son verify all lights working when brake pedal depressed.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conti94

Man i reread you're post about the DCL. It is a possibility that the cars computer is acting up. I have heard that when the computer goes belly up it can cause the car to stall out. I say get it checked out by a local mechanic, or dealer you trust.

The engine computer is less than a year old. Is this the one your referring to?

Posted by: Conti94

Yes i meant the engine computer, hmmm. If it is only a year old it is probably not the engine computer then.

Posted by: JLewisinSyr

Did you check your brake fluid level, that is one of the purposes of the indicator light?

It could be your pads are worn, relying on more fluid to push the caliper piston, or you may have a small leak. Topping off the fluid may make the light go out, but it won't solve the ultimate problem.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLewisinSyr

Did you check your brake fluid level, that is one of the purposes of the indicator light?

It could be your pads are worn, relying on more fluid to push the caliper piston, or you may have a small leak. Topping off the fluid may make the light go out, but it won't solve the ultimate problem.

As I said in my previous post. The pads are new. The fluid is full. The bulbs are good. My main concern is not the DCL or the brake lamp. My cencvern is that the engine now will barely run. It acts like it's not getting gas. I bought a code reader today and can't get any codes out. When I turn the key to the on position to check the codes, besides the normal lights and chimes going off, I now have Check engine light on, Check DCl light on, and charge system light on. Will the charge system malfunction make the car act as though it is not getting gas?
Where is the fuel filter on these cars? Is there a fuel pump flow test that can be done?

Will/

Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear

ok.. after reading and re-reading, I understand that your not getting a brake WARNING lamp, but the Brake Lamp out light in the cluster. I suspect a wiring problem or bad bulbs. Have you tried replacing them even tho they work when you test them? they are cheap, and one could be 'out of spec' on the current flow thru it, or a corroded socket could do that too. If I understand the sensing right, it probably checks for current flow thru the bulbs filaments, and if its too low (bad bulb, corroded socket) it will trigger the warning. This is an educated guess by an electrical engineer/electronic servicer.

ok, as to the charge problem... if the fuel pump where weak, or the filter nasty, a charge system failure could cause a drop in fuel pressure. you might be running right on the margin of pressure when there is no error displayed. I would suggest getting the charging system fixed first, as it could have an effect on the rest of the computers in the car.

Also, the check engine and charge light will come on if you don't have the engine running.

Posted by: Conti94

Charge system may be afuel problem

But usually charge system is electrical. To be specific the Alternator is goin belly up. Same thing happened to me I got the charge system light and my car would die sometimes. I replaced my alternator and it fixed the problem.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conti94

Charge system may be afuel problem

Thanks for all the input guys. I will check the alternator, although as I write this, realizing I can't get the car started for very long, I don't know how I'd do that. Can AutoZone or Checker, test these if I remove it and take it to them?

Will

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichiganTeddyBear

ok.. after reading and re-reading, I understand that your not getting a brake WARNING lamp, but the Brake Lamp out light in the cluster. I suspect a wiring problem or bad bulbs. Have you tried replacing them even tho they work when you test them? they are cheap, and one could be 'out of spec' on the current flow thru it, or a corroded socket could do that too. If I understand the sensing right, it probably checks for current flow thru the bulbs filaments, and if its too low (bad bulb, corroded socket) it will trigger the warning. This is an educated guess by an electrical engineer/electronic servicer.

ok, as to the charge problem... if the fuel pump where weak, or the filter nasty, a charge system failure could cause a drop in fuel pressure. you might be running right on the margin of pressure when there is no error displayed. I would suggest getting the charging system fixed first, as it could have an effect on the rest of the computers in the car.

Also, the check engine and charge light will come on if you don't have the engine running.

Hey there MichiganTB, Thanks for the information. As for the brakes, you are correct, the warning I am getting is the one in the cluster that indicates a bad bulb. No, I have not replaced the bulbs, but I will, and check all the sockets and clean them as needed.

Do you think there would be any codes stored if the charging system is going south? I can't get my new code reader to actually test. I read that I may need to run a jumper from the ground plug at the test connector to a good ground on the car. I will also try this later today. Had to get a jumper or 2 from work first.

Have you ever checked fuel pressure on these cars? Is a pressure tester very expensive? I know that by looking at the fuel rails on top of the engine, there appears to be a schrader valve type connector that I would assume could be used for testing pressure. Just never tested fuel pressure before in a fuel injected car, I'm use to the old mechanical pumps where you measure flow.

Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear

As far as the fuel pressure goes, the schrader valve on the fuel rail is the place to test it. Not sure how much a fuel press gauge goes for. I have heard some people using a tire gauge (but I imagine it ruins the gauge). Not positive on pressure reading, but sure someone else can fill in here. I recall reading someplace that it should be over 40 psi, but my memory is not what it used to be.

As far as the EEC-IV recording errors for the charging system... not sure.

just an FYI. Testing 'volume' isn't real easy to do without right tools on FI cars. The pump typically only runs for a couple secs at key on, or engine is actually cranking/running.

I don't know if all autozone parts can test alt off car. many of the smaller stores can. A call to the one of your choice can actually verify that, and save a trip.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conti94

Charge system may be afuel problem

I had my alternator tested at AutoZone yesterday. It tesed good in all the tests. I bought a fuel filter while I was there and installed it. Still no change. I'm goingto replace the fuel pump I guess and hope this will fix the problem.

Posted by: Conti94

Ok, let us know how it all turns out.

Posted by: wtucker

Well, I replaced the fuel pump, I did the whole thing, hanger, sender, etc...The card runs pretty good, except I am still having the dieing issue. I first installed the fuel pump and went for a ride. All seemd ok until I started to get on the freeway. Had the same issue, it died. I restarted it and had been driving it in the city for a few eeks with no probelsm. I took the car to work, about 25 miles highway driving, no problem. But, on the way home, I tried to get on the highway and it died on the on ramp. Got it started and proceeded about 10 miles or so, and it died again. Got it started and made it the rest of the way home ok. Now this morning I got some codes out of it on the key on engine off test. I first received a code 111, then the seperator 10 and then in the continous codes I got a 529, and then a 542.. I also had the car die on me once while warming the engine. when it died the item called a ICRM control (what ever that is) was clicking like crazy while the engine was sputtering and on it's way to dieing. And thoughts here would really be appreciated....Also, where is the DCL located and where do you buy one? How much are they????

Thank: Will

Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear

I can't help on the other problems, but the DCL isn't a part.. it stands for Data Communications Link. its the communication system for all the computers in the car. so its not any single part.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichiganTeddyBear

I can't help on the other problems, but the DCL isn't a part.. it stands for Data Communications Link. its the communication system for all the computers in the car. so its not any single part.

So I wonder then, what it means when my information center flashes " check DCL"? If DCL is not an actual part....

Posted by: MichiganTeddyBear

when 'check dcl' shows up, usually it means the instrument cluster has lost communication with one of the other computers. There is a DCL tuneup procedure avail (check here in the tech section, or check over at LoL's tech section.. I think there is one on both.. not positive about here). It works for many people with DCL problems, but not all (mine took more drastic matters to fix, but it was an I/P problem). Does your water temp gauge go to 2 bars on top and 2 bars on bottom, with a corresponding loss of instantaneous MPG readings (trip odometer may also quit)?? That is the classic check dcl errors. Thats a loss of communication with the EEC.

Too bad your in a long way from me. I have I/P removal, dcl tuneup, I/P reinstall's down to about 2 hours. thats for the 'extensive' tune up I do that involves resoldering multiple bad connections on the I/P.

Posted by: wtucker

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichiganTeddyBear

when 'check dcl' shows up, usually it means the instrument cluster has lost communication with one of the other computers. There is a DCL tuneup procedure avail (check here in the tech section, or check over at LoL's tech section.. I think there is one on both.. not positive about here). It works for many people with DCL problems, but not all (mine took more drastic matters to fix, but it was an I/P problem). Does your water temp gauge go to 2 bars on top and 2 bars on bottom, with a corresponding loss of instantaneous MPG readings (trip odometer may also quit)?? That is the classic check dcl errors. Thats a loss of communication with the EEC.

Too bad your in a long way from me. I have I/P removal, dcl tuneup, I/P reinstall's down to about 2 hours. thats for the 'extensive' tune up I do that involves resoldering multiple bad connections on the I/P.

I already did the DCL tune-up. It was quit easy, except getting the plugs back in in the back of the gauge. I just mentioned this warning coming on as the engine is dieing because it is a constant factor here. I assume it is not the actual cause of my problems. The car dies, that's my problem. Normally when this happens I'm on the road, so I'm not able to survey the instruments too well to answer your question about the water temp gauge. I know that when I pulled the codes from the car yesterday, I had a "C" code of 529, and 542. Not sure right now which is which, but one says a fuel pump secondary circuit fault, (I just replaced the fuel pump and sender assy) and the other one says "DCL or EEC fault". Now I know that the dealer replaced the PCM, I'll assume that the EEC and PCM are the same thing, in July of this year for the previous owner. Any thoughts?? ANy idea how to do the "pin point" testing on these items? Any books that you can offer that show me "HOW" to do this testing?

Thanks in advance:

Will

Posted by: wtucker

OK, my problems have all been resolved.

I replaced the relay module ($220) from the stealership. It is mounted on the radiator support, on the drivers side. All issues that I mentioned before have been resolved. Yea!